Wayne Thiebaud
New Ribbon
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WOWW...THAT'S MORE THAN A TEA TOWEL

Mae Engelgeer, you have made me covet a tea towel. Or two, or three. The Dutch textile designer has created the Woww, Fest and Bow collections of graphic fabrics, developed in small quantities at the Textile Museum Read more...
Slide 1

IDEAS FOR PASTEL HOME ACCENTS

It's been impossible not to notice that pastels are making a huge splash in everything from fashion to home decor this spring. The sorbet shades go far in brightening up a room and most Read more...
Slide 6

BUILDING THE PERFECT BREAKFAST BAR

We all love the idea of a big, spacious eat-in kitchen, but I don't think I'm alone in getting equally excited about a well-designed breakfast bar - and if you're really lucky with space you can have both! Read more...
Slide 4

ERDEM'S SPRING STUNNER

Just when I thought I was leaning toward more minimal designs in fashion (because my interior/decor tastes are definitely less fussy these days), I get a blast of sunshine Read more...
Slide 5

CHANEL FILM: BICOLOR, THE MAKING OF THE CARDIGAN

Leave it to Chanel to turn the making of a cardigan into something magical. From choosing the colour of the finest cashmere threads to the finishing of the piece with those intertwined C buttons Read more...
Slide 2

PERFUMED GRAPE & RASPBERRY LIMEADE

Recently, Welch's invited me to create a Temperance Cocktail based on one of their new grape juice drinks. The recipe would be an addition to a menu of alcohol-free cocktails created by London expert mixologist Read more...
Slide 3

SUBVERSIVE CERAMICS: BARNABY BARFORD

I think the most intriguing art works are those that deliver a message through craft, combining technical skill and statement. Even better is when a pleasing, and seemingly benign Read more...
Example Frame

May 13, 2013

Gillian Gladrag Launches Funky Felting Kits

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It was about seven years ago when I randomly came upon a book called Complete Feltmaking by English feltmaker Gillian Harris while browsing online; it was the cheery and colourful cover that caught my eye. I had no idea what feltmaking was, I was really only aware of that craft felt we used in primary school projects and those hardy, thick, grey felts associated with traditional Nordic living, but I'd never given a thought to how those real felts were created. I was intrigued so I visited Gillian's website to find out more. I loved the idea that you could create your own fabrics on your kitchen table using wispy pieces of wool then adding water, an alkaline substance (such as soap) and some good old fashioned muscle to bind it all together, winding up with something strong and beautiful. I ordered the book and got some wool tops (tops are tubes of natural fibre you start with by pulling off consistently sized wisps to lay down in alternating layers), a mat and some screening to put over the wool to keep the layers in place and assist with the binding. Although the process takes some time to do well, you can very quickly see your wool transforming into felt which is really exciting. I became fascinated by the endless possibilities the craft offers in terms of creating textures, patterns, shapes, whatever your brain can think of really, and you can keep things minimal or embellish it as much as you want. While felts have all kinds of practical uses - they're extremely durable and naturally waterproof - they can also be quite exquisite. There are textile artists doing incredible things using their handmade felts as their medium, and both heavy and delicate felts have and will continue to feature in high fashion. (I once did a workshop where we learned to make seamless jackets out of felt!) But the process all begins the same way using some basic principles. 

Gillian Gladrag has launched a collection of felting kits for handmade homewares and accessories in her quirky and colourful style, and they are a perfect starting point for novices as well as offering focused projects for more experienced feltmakers. I wanted to try out a kit with my daughter and asked her to choose one, and I should have known that as a puppy-obsessed girl she'd go for Monsieur Saucisson (above), a cute doggie brooch created with the needlefelting technique, a completely different approach from welt felting as described above, which is the child-friendly way. Gillian doesn't recommend that kids use the needles for obvious reasons, and has a set of kits geared toward little ones. I admit I let my daughter do a few pokes and of course I got pricked two seconds later as I was holding Monsieur's sausage body in place. So yes, it's best to listen to common sense! Personally, I'd recommend trying welt felting first if you're new to feltmaking, I think it's more indulgent and it's fun to get your hands all over the fibres, and needle felting is an alternative technique you can add to your repertoire later. (In case you're wondering, welt felting lends well to flat projects and needle felting is more for sculptural creations, or for embellishing a beloved cashmere cardigan, for example.)


GILLIANGLADRAG - FLUFF-A-TORIUM - EXTERIOR SHOP
The Gillian Gladrag shop on Dorking's high street where she also teaches feltmaking classes

GILLIANGLADRAG - Chirpy Chappy felting kit - £13.85

The needle felt kits come with everything you need to create your new little friend, or you can try welt felting all kinds of things including your own seamless handbag - there are a few neat designs to choose from. Once you start making your own felts, you may quickly find yourself addicted to your newfound creativity! 

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And if you're a knitter, Gillian has all kinds of unique yarns to play with, including these thick and thin yarns embellished with needle felted flowers that would make a gorgeous scarf:

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The shop has just about everything you need to felt and knit plus all kinds of neat trims and supplies to finish your creations. Visit Gillian Gladrag online or in person at the 'Fluff-a-torium' at 20 West Street in Dorking, Surrey RH4 1BL. How can you not want to visit a place called the Fluff-a-torium?!

April 19, 2013

Erdem's Spring Stunner

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Just when I thought I was leaning toward more minimal designs in fashion (because my interior/decor tastes are definitely less fussy these days), I get a blast of sunshine in the face at first glimpse of this dress. I guess I will always get an adrenaline rush from layers of transparency, cheery colours, and the special details like embroidery (why would I fight that?!). This is Erdem's latest masterpriece which jumped out at me in an email newsletter from Matches and I had to investigate. It's a very pricey one, so this is just for daydreaming, though I have no idea where I'd wear it should the dress fairy grant me a wish. And those shoes!! I've always loved a t-bar, and I'm a slave to pretty blues. They're Nicholas Kirkwood for Erdem which is given away by the floral lace upper. The metallic platform, heel and trim give the shoe a bit of an edge and offset the delicateness of the dress, if the excessive chunkiness and cut-out in the heel didn't already do the job. 

NicholasKirkwood
 Erdem

April 09, 2013

Subversive Ceramics: Barnaby Barford's The Seven Deadly Sins

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I think the most intriguing art works are those that deliver a message through craft, combining technical skill and statement. Even better is when a pleasing, and seemingly benign, exterior - such as clusters of pretty porcelain flowers - draws us in to confront us with something we didn't expect; to surprise, and possibly even shock. This is the experience British artist Barnaby Barford has created with his new exhibition, The Seven Deadly Sins, currently on show at David Gill Gallery in London's Mayfair. 

Known for his controversial re-modelling of traditional ceramic figurines, Barford describes his latest ceramic subversion as ‘love gone wrong’. He has made a series of mirrors which reflect the viewer and convey elements of the ‘sin’ they represent: Pride, Avarice, Gluttony, Envy, Lust, Sloth and Wrath. Human in scale, they reflect the viewer in full length, challenging perception in terms of form and message. The initial response is to marvel at their beauty and delight in the intricate detail which has gone into the construction of the sculptures. Then, the surprise, or shocking twist, plays its part when closer inspection of the frame's porcelain filigree flowers and foliage reveals images loaded with emotional, and sometimes distasteful, messages. For example, Gluttony carries images of fast food and takeaway menus, Envy uses photographs of the London riots in the summer of 2011, and Lust shows clusters of flowers bearing the faces of porn stars.

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According to the artist's statement, Barford explores the nature of sin through these seven works, posing the question: Are sins a plague upon the social order or the grease that turns its wheels?  At what point does desire turn into obsession or an unhealthy intensification of a perfectly understandable impulse? Barford has spent the last twelve months considering the way society measures and values extreme sensations. “We are all hard-wired to desire power, love, possessions. That’s probably the way all humans have been like,” he says. “It’s not fundamentally bad to desire things but what interests me is the way these ‘sins’ can motivate people. How does the idea of ‘sin’ affect people these days when we live in a largely secular society? What are the consequences?”

In confronting what he sees as uncomfortable truths about contemporary society, Barford decided that the viewers of his work should find themselves not just reflecting on the ideas he has presented to them but also, literally, reflected within the mirror. “You see the piece and you see yourself within it,” he says. (I am dying to know how many people fix their hair when standing in front of these mirrors, especially Pride.)

Barford_Pride

Pride. Barford has created a mirror which demands that the viewer sees themselves in entirety, portrayed like a god, within the curved portal of an icon. This mirror is surrounded by a multitude of flowers in golden clusters which frame the viewer, giving the reflected figure an heroic status. Barford’s interpretation of Pride is his take on the familiar phrase, “If it makes you happy…”, expanding on the notion that pride can be defined by arrogance, defiance, desire for self-fulfilment and self-satisfaction, no matter what impact your desire might have on other people. He was inspired by Henry Fairlie, British political journalist and social critic, who said: “Pride excites us to take too much pleasure in ourselves, but not to take pleasure in our humanity… it causes us to ignore others.”

Barford_Sloth

Sloth. Barford has created a mirror which resembles a lazy loop, a bulging shape, weighted at the base with the easy, swelling lines of a bag filled with cushions. “I wanted to use just plain white flowers for Sloth,” said Barford, “because it’s about not caring. It’s represented by a shape full of nothingness and the sense of an emotion which is too inert to love or hate anything or anyone.” He adds another quote from Henry Fairlie, “Sloth is a sin which believes in nothing, enjoys nothing, loves nothing, hates nothing, finds purpose in nothing, lives for nothing and only remains alive because there is nothing it would die for.”

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Gluttony. An obsession with food is clear to see within this mirror. Resembling the bloated gut of the digestive system, the flowers carry Barford’s witty take on the availability of food and a human inability to resist temptation when it is presented so frequently, and universally. The flowers which adorn the puffy shapes of this piece are patterned with fragments of takeaway food menus and fast food advertisements. “From fatty kebabs to extreme fine dining, humans can’t stop thinking about food,” says Barford. He adds, “For a dieter the idea of food is negatively all-consuming and for the greedy person it’s a constant urge.”  The pale tints of the fast food menus are seductively pretty and appealing, just as they are intended to be in their real purpose.

Barford_Wrath

Wrath. The sharp shape of a mirrored star sits at the centre of this intense piece. Using the hot, flame colours of red and yellow, the impression of a bomb-blast is immediately apparent. Barford has taken the intensity of anger, when it spills into violence, and has represented it in a cacophony of colour loaded with exploding emotion. “The bomb is a master motif of our time,” says Barford. “A British viewer might see this and think of terrorism but an Iraqi might think of NATO bombs and a Japanese person might think of Hiroshima. At first glance this piece may seem cartoon-like but Barford deliberately uses this style to evoke an emotional distance from the reality of violence. He sees the piece as an example of the way vengeance can be carefully planned, designed to inflict maximum damage and pain but ensuring that the impact is well removed from the person who has planned it.

Barford_Lust

Lust. Barford confronts the extremes of contemporary sex in this piece.  The flowers are beautiful, as with all the other mirrors, but they each bear the image of a porn star’s face, eyes closed, as they act out their roles for other people’s enjoyment. “I wanted to concentrate on the actors’ faces,” said Barford. “These films are impersonal, in the sense that it’s not the faces that the viewer’s want to see.” Yet the viewer of this piece will see themselves reflected within a splattered border of fleshy faces in varying states of ecstasy, disengaged, doing their job for the lust of others.

Barford_Envy

Envy. This, his most political piece, is about desire for other people’s possessions and the notion that, if they can’t have them then this festering resentment can result in wilful destruction and theft of other people’s property. Barford has used the urban disturbances in London and other UK cities in the summer of 2011 to illustrate this extreme sensation. “What happened during those riots was appalling,” he says, “but you can understand how a sense of injustice, coupled with violent opportunity, can catapult people into a situation when they take what they can, because they can.”  He adds, “There’s this idea that people feel an entitlement to enjoy what others have and an irritation that others should enjoy what they don’t have. We are sold the idea of society as being equal,” he says, “and everyone having equal opportunities. But sadly we are simply not equal.” This large oblong mirror is covered with a filigree of creeper, like a lascivious weed which threatens to engulf the entire piece. Each of the leaves bears an image of the riots; hooded youths throwing stones, breaking windows, rampaging in the city streets and confronting the police. The piece’s beauty belies the depressing violence which envy can promote so suddenly in people who believe they can justify criminal behaviour as an aspect of their ‘right’ to possess other people’s goods.

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Avarice. The desire for money is plainly seen in this handsome piece. Florets of porcelain blooms each bear the fragmentary image of some of the world’s great currencies. Greenback dollars for the leaves, pink Euros and Sterling pound notes as well as Yuan, Rupees, Turkish lira for the flowers. Avarice confronts the viewer with their basic desire for wealth, depicted as the wreaths twist and turn across the mirror’s organic shape. “The obsession for wealth can be seen both reflexively and reflectively, demonstrating desire and seeing the truth,” says Barford.

The Seven Deadly Sins can be viewed at David Gill Gallery at 2-4 King Street, St James’s, London SW1Y 6QP until Friday, 12 April. Concurrently, an exhibition of his earlier work will be shown from February 9 – March 17 at the American Museum of Ceramic Art in Pomona, California, USA.  

March 21, 2013

Macaron Day Overload!

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The master of macarons, Pierre Hermé, created this fresh and unusual recipe of mint, apple, cucumber and rocket for his July offering for the Les Jardins 2013 collection

Leave it up to Pierre Hermé to bring us National Macaron day - that's Jour du Macaron in its originating country of France - in association with Relais Desserts. This is its 8th year running annually on March 20th and it's not just about celebrating the beloved macaron and the beginning of spring, it's to support a chosen charity, and this year it's Vaincre la mucoviscidose, the association for beating cystic fibrosis, in France. The idea is that participating patisseries in France and abroad will offer their macarons in exchange for a donation to the charity - that's a great way to truly enjoy your macaron guilt-free. 

In addition to Paris, the cities I've found to be officially participating are Toronto, VancouverNew York and Budapest, and although I can't find a website for London, surely Pierre Hermé (in Selfridges) is supporting a UK charity; last year it was Ambitious About Autism. And the young pastry chef we know from Masterchef Australia, Adrian Zumbo, joined in these last two years but this time is in Kuala Lampur teaching his craft, according to his twitter

I spent the day perusing the participating patisseries for the most mouth-watering and craving-inducing images of macarons and it nearly killed me:

PARIS

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Dalloyau's candied ginger and apple 

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Christophe Roussel's macaron skewers (oh my god) and Variation de Moment (Changing Moment) of lavender and apricot

TORONTO

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A sunny approach to sweet treats at Butter Avenue - love those minis!

 

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Ruelo's varied selection includes some adventurous options, such as Black Truffle 

MacaronDay_Rahier

I'll have to investigate whether there's some pistachio chopped up on there next time I visit Rahier

  Jadore

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J'adore Cakes Co. does a pistachio rosewater macaron, two of my favourite flavours, which makes J'adore a high priority on the list to visit this summer

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Moroco Chocolate just may have the most beautiful boutique in Toronto, and they create personalised macarons

NEW YORK

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Macaron Parlour likes to experiment with flavours including candied bacon - why not! - as well as Earl Grey tea and black sesame. 

BUDAPEST

It appears as if this is the most celebratory Macaron Day going in terms of centralising it into a ticketed event and bringing Hungarians together in one space to indulge in macarons. The images I found in their site's gallery may not actually be from Hungary, I recognise one from a New York cafe's site, but rather they're a collection of images people were encouraged to send in - unfortunately they were posted without credit. If one is yours please let me know!

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Thanks to Yashesh!

March 15, 2013

Fashion Week Favourites: Paris

MiuMiuMiu Miu 

In the end, Paris gave the colour and texture lovers what we wanted, and for those who can never get enough black, there was of course a ton of that as well; Rick Owens, Gareth Pugh, Ann Demeulemeester and Comme Des Garçons will always have options for you. Miuccia Prada has guaranteed a polka dot revival for fall thanks to the unabashedly vibrant, Lichtenstein-esque Ben-Day dot patterns at Miu Miu which she clashed with tight horizontal stripes on tights, bags and fantastic, fitted long coats with off-centre plackets with big buttons (is it still considered clashing when it works so well?). And I'll bet we'll be seeing a lot of necks tied up in scarves which is good because I've got a box of neckerchiefs that are desperate to be relevant again. 

Here's what else jumped out at me from Paris: 

TsumoriChisato

Tsumori Chisato presented a chic version of her fun, vibrant, and surreal approach to clothes - this time a marine theme that looked handpainted ran through the collection

Valentino

Valentino drew upon Dutch influences for their laser cut and beaded collars, Delft-like prints and tulip embroidery that adorned somewhat austere dresses and capes

Celine

The clean and elegant cuts, tactile fabrics and soft tones of Céline make for a great palette cleanser. Add a bit of appliqued texture and slightly exaggerated shapes and you get a luxe classic that never feels old. 

Cacharel

Cacharel is a personal favourite of mine; regardless of who's designing the Paris house is always about youthful, feminine clothes that are chic, and I have a feeling that combination will be endlessly appealing to me no matter how many calendar pages flip by. Prints are a big part of the brand's DNA and for fall we have tapestry-inspired florals and a hummingbird motif that brought a classic anorak to life; hopefully others will take note and wake up this winter staple with options beyond the drab, plain tones we're usually offered (whenever khaki is a trend I die a little). 

IsseyMiyake

Happy coats at Issey Miyake! And happy models, too (those who were capable of accommodating the 'True Smiles' request, anyway). A colour-blocked rethinking of plaid in tonal shades energised with fine diagonal stripes made for coats that would brighten any damp and gloomy day - get them to the UK stat!

Chanel

While not a colour fiesta at Chanel, with 80 outfits to choose from we're guaranteed to fall in love with at least a few tweed or boucle creations. Will we be seeing second-skin thigh-hig leather 'socks' come September? How about winter wig hats? Karl Lagerfeld always brings a bit of fantasy beyond the daydreams he prompts of winning the lottery to afford the clothes. 

Lanvin

Colour seeker or not, Alber Elbaz made the darkest of palettes light and beautiful for Lanvin with flower and insect appliques, easy yet sophisticated cuts and wordy necklaces and medallions that (mostly) expressed nice things like 'Happy' and 'Love'. I'd feel both of these if I were wearing Lanvin. 

Photos: Style.com

March 09, 2013

Candy Hearts, Cakes and Elle Fanning by Will Cotton

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Headpiece by Will Cotton, based on Alexander McQueen

This was initially supposed to be a Valentines post...obviously that did not happen. It was too soon after my first post of Will Cotton's works anyway, and that is a lot of sugar to consume at once (no complaints here though).  New York magazine's spring fashion issue featured a cover and spread of Elle Fanning as Will Cotton's latest muse, wearing designs from the spring runway accessorised with sweets and icing against candy land backgrounds that are blowups of Cotton's paintings. I haven't actually seen Fanning in any films so I have no opinion of her as an actress (though I hear she's talented), but I do like her as the human embodiment of sweetness in Cotton's paintings; it rings genuine. (Those Fanning girls really buck the child actor stererotype, don't they?)

Cotton reworked the clothes into "something even more perfect for the environment", adorning them with all kinds of dainty designs made from icing, and 'Cottonised' a brand new Reed Krakoff bag by shoving a couple of big squishy cakes into it!

You can watch the behind-the-scenes video featuring Will Cotton and Elle on The Cut:

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Elle pipes the icing corset Will Cotton created to be worn over a Dolce & Gabbana bodysuit. Cotton made the earrings and headpiece, too. 

Elle_will_1Elle Fanning wears a Marchesa gown in front of Will Cotton's Pastoral, 2009

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Will Cotton hand piped this Erdem dress with icing to create sugar appliques

Elle_will_4Eyes by Will Cotton, based on Dior

Elle_will_11Will Cotton based this dot candy detailed bag on a Fendi design

Elle_will_13This Thom Browne skirt reminded Will Cotton of a tea tray, so he decorated it with petits fours "because what a nice thing would that be?"

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Elle wears a Marc Jacobs dress in front of a version of Will Cotton's Insatiable, 2008

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And you thought your purse was messy. Will Cotton stuffed cakes into this Reed Krakoff bag!

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Elle wears Reem Acra in front of one of Will Cotton's gingerbread house paintings

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An ink on paper rendering of Elle in a Louis Vuitton romper by Will Cotton

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Elle lounges on sugar crystals wearing Valentino's 'glass slippers'

Photos: NY magazine/The Cut

February 26, 2013

Fashion Week Favourites: London

DuroOlowu

Duro Olowu returned to London this season to show his scrumptiously chic A/W collection (he's been showing in New York for the past two years). One of my most favourite designers and a very warm-hearted man to boot, through his clothes he shows us seemingly endless ways to wear texture, colour and print at its most joyful, and those ways are becoming more and more refined and sophisticated without stifling one bit of his infectious exuberance. I can only imagine how special you would feel wearing one of his garments. (When I met Duro last autumn his lovely wife was with him and looked fantastic wearing one of his exquisite jackets.)

Sisterbysibling

Look beyond the no-pants, high top trainer, face-eating-muff styling by Katie Grand and you'll see some very gorgeous knits from this sister line of the knitwear house Sibling, appropriately named Sister by Sibling. (Sometimes I feel the need to explain why catwalk presentation can be odd, for the non-fashion readers. Like my Dad. "Why isn't she wearing pants? Who goes out without pants?" "No one, dad. But you notice the sweater, right? And the hat?" "No, I'm wondering why she's not wearing pants." "Never mind, Dad.") Anyway, massive scarves in a gorgeous slubby texture are appealing in a primal way - don't we all seek that kind of assured comfort in the cold? The short sleeves of the fair isle and rosette sweaters balance their chunkiness and make for a cute shape. And they may even look good with pants. 

ClementsRibeiro
I love the sporty look of  Clements Riberio's striped cashmere sweater with the floral mini, and the slightly punky hair that keeps it from looking too preppy. These outfits stood out from the earthier muted tones that dominated the second half of the line up. 

 MichaelvanderHam

Michael van der Ham's usual choppy asymmetry was only to be found in the zig zag of the models' hairstyle this season. The patchwork mashups were (mostly) gone, with the outfits more finished and refined. And if the models look to be even more miserable than usual (actually, with the exception of one, these were the least sour looking of the bunch) it's because van der Ham's inspiration was a 'tough girl - moody and dark.' Ok. But some actually looked like they were in pain. 

PringleofScotland
Pringle of Scotland has pared down their knitwear range to focus on their signature styles, the loveliest of the bunch being the pure white gilet and skirt in an ottoman rib knit that makes you want to run your fingers over and over just as much as wear.

OrlaKiely

I always look forward to the Orla Kiely presentation in what has been her fashion week home away from home for the past several seasons, the Portico Rooms at Somerset House which she would transform into her preferred fantasyland at the time, and always on the Friday. Sometimes there would be live models (which of course I loved, they pose for you), sometimes there would be cardboard cutouts, and other times it was superimposed paper girls on the walls. I've skipped the past two seasons because fashion week takes a heck of a lot of energy, and I just haven't had it for the past year. So I was surprised to find out that Orla moved out of Somerset House and instead set up office, literally, for her fashionable, anachronistic secretaries to show off their new knit dresses, embroidered cardigans and smart handbags between typing and taking phone calls. 

Photo source

Click the image to watch the video of the girls at work (at fashion156.com):

Orla_show

Another reason I love the presentation format:

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Sophia Webster showed her new range of shoes in pastel birdhouses in a pastel forest

BoraAksuPhotos: Bora Aksu

I so look forward to inspecting the intricate details of Bora Aksu's clothes up close in the exhibition hall, post-show. The Turkish designer's signature approach involves techniques with the textiles to create all kinds of interesting textures, and mixing knitted elements with both delicate and rigid materials, like chiffons and lace, and hard leather. You can see some details from a past season here.

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Photos: fredbutler.blogspot.co.uk

And undoubtedly the most joyful of presentations come from Fred Butler where you instantly feel validated for your enduring childhood attachment to colour and your desire to celebrate it now in a big way. Which Fred does every day. This season Fred took a more commercial approach and set up a pop-up shop (complete with Fred Butler-esque cupcakes by Pomp de Franc) to allow guests to interact with the goods.

Fred does a film each season and I use them for a little daydreamy escape whenever things are too gloomy in this world of ours:

 

Photos from Style.com unless otherwise credited

February 23, 2013

Fashion Week Favourites: New York

RedValentinoRed Valentino continues with their youthful silhouette that seems made with a modern day Marie Antoinette's daughter, Marie Thérèse, in mind. This time the dresses took a folksy turn, inspired by the fairytale Hansel and Gretel, presented against an illustrated backdrop of treats Will Cotton would appreciate.

In the sea of black that tends to be half of New York fashion week shows, London is always a breath of fresh air as there is no city uniform for the designers to cater to. (I'd still take any of the clothes of course. Except maybe those shiny dresses geared toward the Real Houswives set.) However, New York is still full of fresh and vibrant offerings, many of which present off the catwalk in spaces that allow for more creative and engaging context. 

The most appealing collections visually, for me, are always those that combine structure, colour, print and texture to create something that feels exciting and new. (Writing that just triggered the Love Boat theme in my brain.) 

NEW YORK

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Toronto's Calla Haynes, based in Paris and showing in New York, tells us we shouldn't be afraid of colour, and that this collection is about 'being happy'. I knew I loved Calla. Jcrew_1

 

 J. Crew is really stepping it up, earning their place amongst the luxury at NET-A-PORTER.COM with this Marrakech-inspired, jewel-adorned collection

McQ

This exquisite McQ belted dress combines structured, chunky ribbed knit with what looks to be felted bell sleeves and skirt, possibly angora and cashmere? (Why are there no reviews published yet?) Whatever it is, the progression of the McQ line in the past two seasons has raised the stakes of sister lines, possibly even further than Prada did with Miu Miu. 

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Swimwear and resortwear designer Mara Hoffman applies her signature look of vibrant prints in flowing fabrics to a range of cooler weather outfits - what a way to bring the sunshine year round!

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Alice + Olivia's simple navy turtleneck lets this wonderfully full tropical print skirt stand out

  NormaKamali

Norma Kamali's iconic Sleeping Bag coat from 1974 provides the reference for this quilted 1950s style party dress and cosy patchwork coat. I love that she's made a padded dress appear light and airy. 

AnnaSui

Anna Sui's heavily styled and layered outfits can be a lot for the eye to take in all at once; these two looks present the designer's head-to-toe texture and print approach in a more cohesive way.

Photos: Style.com

February 08, 2013

Floral Friday: The Flowers of Spring Haute Couture

Florals_diorRaf Simons takes Dior back to the garden for Haute Couture SS 2013

With Haute Couture, we get to see florals rise up from the 2-D of print and pattern and 'pop' as embroidered and appliquéd blossoms so delicate you need to whisper, or so lush you want to run around in them. Flowers figured heavily at Dior (my favourite collection of the 22 houses, I think, who showed) and Chanel (of course they did, you don't waste the hands of Lemarié) while they texturised a selection of looks at Giambattista Valli and Valentino. The haute couture flower is so exquisite in its craftsmanship that it transcends trend and exists as simply a thing of beauty to admire, forever. 

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Giambattista Valli appliquéd swelled-bellied and cinched-waist dresses, and accessorised with bronzed bouquets

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Valentino Haute Couture SS 2013

Since we're talking about the specialness of haute couture, I can't not mention Valentino without also drawing attention to the dresses detailed in piping. This kind of handwork has featured in many Valentino collections when the man himself was at the helm, and now Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli have taken the technique to extraordinary lengths. According to Tim Blanks as per the notes received at the show, the tulle cage-like cape below - over a dress of layers of organza embroidered with birds and butterflies - is scrolled with crepe piping that took 500 hours of hand-rolling to produce. And that was just one of several piped creations that took the catwalk. Blanks added that one roller apparently developed carpel-tunnel syndrome during the production of the collection. That's not suprising, but what is, is the fact that it was only one person! I'd say it was well worth it, but then it's not my gnarled hand we're talking about, is it? 


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You can faintly see the embroidered birds and butterflies peaking out from the 500-hours-of-handpiping 'cage' cape

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 The hand-piping in Valentino red. It's like fancy iron work but in crepe.


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Chanel is generous with giving us glimpses into how their haute couture is made. Below we see the skilled hands at work at Lemarié, Lesage and Atelier Haute Couture Chanel as they create the collection 'Le Savoir Faire' for the spring-summer season. It's a three-minute video, but I think I could easily watch three hours of tulle ribbon being pulled through metallic threads:

Photos: Style.com

January 30, 2013

'Shoe as Art' Series: Jan Jansen

Jan-Jansen-Orchid1I've begun to make my way through this mostly hidden world of shoes that defy the conventional notion of what a shoe is, and I'm taking you along with me on this new 'Shoe is Art' series. We've already seen the make-you-smile designs from Japanese shoemaker Tetsuya Uenobe - who can resist a stuffed leather bear hugging your ankle as you walk? - and we're going to look at other shoe artisans whose footwear creations are so wonderfully unorthodox that they essentially turn your foot into a walking exhibition. They range from the unique-but-not-a-massive-stretch-from-what-we're-used-to-seeing-these-days designs, to some that are just so out there they stop you in your tracks and cause your face to contort just a bit. (That happened to me today when I saw shoes made of dead animals. I guess when we wear leather we're doing the same, but this pair went well beyond the socially acceptable use of animals in footwear - would you be willing to walk on an actual hoof?) Whether you would wear these mind-bending designs or not doesn't matter; but if you're open to the concept, you can catch an intriguing statement from the designer/artist. And if you do wear them, you get to deliver that statement to the world.

Today we're looking at Dutch shoemaker and designer Jan Jansen whose work I was introduced to by Tetsuya when he mentioned Jansen as an influence on his own designs. Not suprising, considering 'the master of shoe design' is one of the most revered figures in the world of shoes, having created some of the most iconic and innovative styles to date. Jansen has been designing unconventional - though still largely wearable - shoes since the 1960s, the styles of which are still as relevant and current as ever, owing to his obliviousness to outside inflences: "Im not a trendsetter. I'm years ahead of the trendsetters." Jansen is probably the most prolific shoemaker when it comes to rethinking the design of the shoe; he is constantly developing new constructions, though he will use the the same ones for years and create variations of some. 

Jansen has received numerous awards for his work, including the Kho Liang Ie Prize (1985), the Grand Seigneur (1996), The BKVB Oeuvre Prize (2002) and the Max Heijmans Ring (2006). Many of his works are displayed in museums and galleries in Europe, and still Jansen prefers to refer to himself as a craftsmen, rather than 'artist' which has been attributed to him by peers and fans. In 2007, Christie's auctioned the collection 'Jan Jansen, In His Shoes' - everything sold and all of the estimated selling prices were realised. And significantly, many of the lots were a single shoe. 

With the exception of those gorgeous Orchid shoes above which are a current design on the market, this is a retrospective view of selected styles from the past five decades.

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'Interchangeable 2', 1967. Metal frame mule with removeable patterned sock

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'Stir my Blue Blood', 1991

Jan-jansen-serpents-kiss-1'Serpent's Kiss', 1994,  is constructed of a python upper that looks as if it could bite, mounted on a platform and heel which Jansen has reinvented in wavy, ribbon-like stainless steel.

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For Snoecks', 2000. Suede, goat leather, patent goat leather, vulcanised sole. 

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Velazquez boots, 1979. These quilted satin platforms were made in collaboration with Fong-Leng to be worn with her red evening cloak, 'Velazquez'.

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'Build Me Up', 1972. Extreme platform slippers!
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Metallic green heels with silver piping and exaggerated back, 1996; the rattan sandal in nubuck, 1973.
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One variation of Jansen's iconic sandals with rattan frame, 1975. The original prototype in ochre was copied by Prada in 2006 without credit to Jansen, right down to the colour. 

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'High Tea', from Meubelcouture, meaning furniture couture. You're right, you can't wear it. It's not a shoe but a chaise longue, the structure of which Jansen based on his famous rattan frame sandal. If you tilt your head you can see that the seat features a face-to-face design in the leather. 

And another art work of Jansen's based on his shoe design is 'Cindy's Dance at Midnight', part of the permanent collection of the National Glass Museum in Leerdam, Netherlands. Using glass to translate his style from the traditional materials, the extreme yet elegant curves of this 'shoe' show off and mix the spectrum of the pinks and greens beautifully. (It reminds me of Cinderella, when the one wicked stepsister's attempted to scrunch her huge foot into the dainty glass slipper.)

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What's better than watching and hearing the man himself? This video profile below is just wonderful, taking us into Jansen's Amsterdam shop and studio to see and hear firsthand how he approaches the process of making his shoes: "We don't have a budget for the amount of leather we can buy or what the collection may cost. We just go by what we think is nice and beautiful." This approach is extremely unusual these days, but then Jansen has remained independent, passionate as ever, and answers only to himself. And his wife Tonny who double as as his muse, style tester and colour advisor. Jansen also shows us how a hand made shoe is constructed, and watch for the table in the window of his shop which stands on women's legs outfitted in his shoes, of course. Also part of his Meublecouture collection, titled Hommage to Rubens. 

 

 
Shoe therapy: The news that we're about to enter a triple recession in the UK has just hit and it's been tough enough already, so if you're in need of a new pair of shoes, you may want to have a browse of the discounts available with netvoucher codes for shoes - you may find your that favourite online shoe shop is participating.

Photos: Christie's, Virtual Shoe Museum

January 23, 2013

Great Gatsby Fashion: Then and Now

The Great Gatsby's release in May is going to unleash a frenzy for 1920s fashion, much like The Artist,  Downton Abbey, Boardwalk Empire, and the 1974 film adaptation of the F. Scott Fitzgerald novel, starring Mia Farrow, have. (It's hard to believe the 1974 film influenced fashion trends if this is any indication of taste at the time.) The lust for dropped waists, chiffon overlays and delicate beading really is guaranteed to explode this spring: the costumes for the film are a dream collaboration between Miuccia Prada, renowned film and stage costume designer Catherine Martin, and Baz Luhrman who directed the film. (Martin and Luhrman have been married since 1997, first meeting at college in their native Australia, and the couple have worked together ever since. I'll bet their dinner conversation is awesome.)

Fashionistas are going nuts now that Prada have released Miuccia's sketches of designs from the film, which are worn by Carey Mulligan who stars as Daisy Buchanan. Here are glimpses of four out of the 40 cocktail and evening dresses created, all of which are adapted from past Prada and Miu Miu collections:

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 I'm very curious to see how the orange fishscale dress translates in the flesh!

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Carey Mulligan as Daisy Buchanan in Baz Luhrman's film adaption of The Great Gatsby

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Carey's character poster. Never mind the dress - my eyes are all over the art deco backdrop!

Let's go back to Mia Farrow as Buchanan, who was also in great company having been dressed by the great costume designer Theoni V. Aldredge, whose prolific and honoured career in film, television and stage spanned six decades. Aldredge won an Oscar and British Academy Award for her work in The Great Gatsby, and her designs from the film were adapted for a clothing line at Bloomingdales. 

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Yes, that is Sam Waterston on the left behind Mia. 

More fun facts about The Great Gatsby, 1974 (the third filmed version of the novel):

  • The rights to the novel were purchased in 1971 by Robert Evans so that his wife Ali MacGraw could play Daisy. She blew that when she left him for Steve McQueen, who was originally considered for the role of Gatsby. Not surprising that he didn't get it.
  • Mia Farrow was pregnant during shooting and so wore loose, flowing dresses and was shot in tight close-ups to conceal her growing belly.
  • Truman Capote was the film's original screenwriter but was replaced by Francis Ford Coppola who later claimed the director, Jack Clayton, didn't pay much attention to it: "The film I wrote did not get made."
  • Critics weren't moved to "stand up and cheer": Vincent Canby made this statement in his review of the film in The New York Times : "The sets and costumes and most of the performances are exceptionally good, but the movie itself is as lifeless as a body that's been too long at the bottom of a swimming pool." Owwwch.  And gross.

I can't not mention Midnight in Paris, the Woody Allen film in which a nostalgic screenwriter (Owen Wilson) inexplicably finds himself inserted into 1920s Paris, first at a party with The Great Gatsby author F. Scott Fitzergerald and his wife Zelda. The costumes, by Sonia Grande, are scrumptious. It's about as close to time travel to one of the most exciting eras in art, literature, fashion, music and philosophy in Paris as we can get. (They even go briefly back from then to La Belle Epoque!)

January 05, 2013

Organise + Beautify Your Space with One Piece

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I must have had clutter solutions on my mind when I chose the theme for my most recent product Ideabook for Houzz.com: Fabulously Decorate Storage. Before we left England for the holidays in Canada, I spent many hours getting the house ready for a friend's parents who were going to be staying there while we were away, and I became painfully aware of just how much clutter we'd accumulated. We couldn't deal with all of it in time so we hid it, hoping that they wouldn't open the tallboy sideboard in dining room, or the bombe sideboard in the living room, or any of the bottom three drawers in the kitchen... I haven't had a report of an appliance manual/children's drawings/miscellaneous plastic things avalanche enveloping them, so I assume they resisted the urge to see what's in there. Most of it is paper that we have to sit down and sort out - fun! - and a lot of it can be shredded or recycled. But there are so many things that, despite their apparent uselessness, have to stick around for a while longer. The good news is there are ways to deal with them that don't have to involve ugly plastic storage bins. Or lots of yelling (just me?)

The 20 products I chose for this Ideabook are storage solutions that will actually enhance your decor while helping hide a little, or a lot, of clutter. From small, shimmery bowls that will obscure those annoying little bits that can't seem find a home, to a filing cabinet that will instantly make your home office a happy place - yes, even a metal one! - there is hope for us clutter magnets yet. The products above are some of my favourites from the Ideabook. Some are way beyond my budget but they plant ideas in our heads (hence the name of the book), while others are really affordable, such as the harlequin print Circus Sack from Danish designers Varpunen which I just love; I see a trio under my living room sidetable holding and hiding everything from magazines to DVDs to Wii controllers. (Here's a tip: don't keep anything in a room that doesn't belong there and you'll have much less clutter. Note to self: shipping materials do not belong under the couch.)

If all of this organisation talk has inspired you to start the year with less mess, you can get more helpful ideas from these articles: 

Of course you do realise that if you read all of these, then you really have no more excuses! 

FYI - you can always see my latest product Ideabook in the Houzz widget in the sidebar!

 

November 27, 2012

Make Mine Multi-Faceted

 

('Faceted' would have sufficed but alliteration just sounds better)

I know what I want for Christmas. Forget diamonds, I'll take my facets in the form of water-based blue resin, please. (I wasn't going to get diamonds anyway but it's still a compliment.) I've been looking for decor pieces that are different from anything I have. My living room is in need of a minor transformation, and I like to buy things that aren't just space fillers but unique and beautiful and the kind of piece I won't be looking at in a year saying 'I am glad I am no longer the person who thought this was a good idea.' But these things of enduring significance tend not to come cheap, so it's a slow process building that collection. (If bookmarked web pages and blogs count as a collection, I'm already there!)

These Faceture vases, which I think are better without flowers - the way the light catches the facets is beautiful enough - are made by Phil Cuttance, a New Zealander who manipulates each object's form with a turn of the hand before casting, making every piece genuinely unique (you can see how he does this in the video above). Phil says:

“I like the idea of people knowing where products come from, and what goes into making them. I think a lot of products are now seen as ‘throw – away’ as they are made on a mass scale, in places far away from where they end up, and out of sight. There was time when people commissioned a local maker or craftsman to make an object, which gave it an inherent value. I like that model.”

Yes, us too! The vessels and the rest of his Faceture series, which includes lamps and sidetables, are sold at Australian-basesd shop theminimalist.com.au, my new obsession. The lamp is just awesome, but I like the slender design of the vessels so much that, for me, the the sidetable's chunky approach can't compare. (It's still cool though!)

This small vase is a limited edition colour called Summer Mint. That totally has my name on it.

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The vases in two sizes, lamp and side table. I want to touch them for a long time.

Photos: The Minimalist

November 14, 2012

Win a Duro Olowu Limited Edition Umbrella

Duro_umbrellasThese vibrant umbrellas will lift your spirits on the gloomiest of days

A sparking highlight of the preview day I spent at Frieze London was the Duro Olowu umbrella installation – specially commissioned to celebrate the 10th Anniversary of The Outset Frieze Art Fair Fund to benefit the Tate Collection (OFT). The Fund is organised and funded by Outset Contemporary Art Fund with support from Le Méridien Hotels & Resorts.

Two exclusive umbrella designs featuring Olowu’s signature fabrics were launched at Frieze London in October and are on sale at limited outlets, including the shops at Tate Britain and Tate Modern. One of the most sought-after designers working internationally, Duro’s designs, inspired by his Jamaican-Nigerian heritage and London upbringing, are a favourite of Michelle Obama, Uma Thurman and other trend-setters.

There are only a limited number of Olowu’s colour design umbrellas in existence (retailing at £85), and thanks to Le Méridien Piccadilly I have one to give away! If you’d like to be in with a chance of winning one of these gorgeous limited edition umbrellas, please answer the following question in the comments by midnight (GMT) on Wednesday, November 22:

Which anniversary is OFT celebrating this year?

a) 2nd

b) 5th

c) 10th

A winner will be chosen randomly from all of the correct answers and announced on November 23. Please note: Due to the size of the umbrella this giveaway is only open to those with addresses in the UK. Good luck!

To see more of the Duro Olowu umbrella installation at Frieze, the designer and Outset, click here


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Duro Olowu introduces his umbrella installation for OFT at Frieze Art Fair, with Candida Gertler, co-founder of Outset

Photos #1 and 3: Dave Watts Photography ©

October 17, 2012

Antonio Marras SS13

  

Antonio Marras is usually the first show I look at from Milan Fashion Week. It's the richness of textures and the liberal use of pastels that gets me (no, I will never tire of pastels!), presented in classic, feminine cuts that Marras reinvents with each season. A few of the looks from his latest collection would be right at home at Tokyo Fashion Week. Luxe fabrics, especially irresistible when he mixes many in one garment:

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and hand embroidered details:

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finished with those shoes! (which I could never walk in) and those bags! (luckily I have no difficulty carrying bags).  As you can see in the video above, the show took place during a suitably sugary afternoon tea and I think I actually saw someone eat something. (I have seen the most gorgeous food go ignored at fashion events and I've so wanted to come in with a stack of Tupperware and rescue it all.  I like that Antonio Marras went with the idea anyway).

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Photos:  Style.com

September 27, 2012

Walls to Transform Your Space

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For my Houzz Ideabook for August I looked at ways to bring a different look or feel to your space using one or all of your four walls. As usual, putting together the book was hugely inspiring and also frustrating because I wish I had endless rooms (and a limitless budget!) to play with all of these great ideas. Many of them are fantastic solutions to setting a tone or creating a style in a room that doesn't offer much charm in itself; most of us have at some point lived in a place where the rooms were like plain boxes, the drywall uneven, the baseboards icky, etc. And while space usually comes at a premium, sometimes we find ourselves with more than we can fill because of budget limitations or our stay is short-term, but want to make a nice home. 

So how about a super-sized field of poppies, a grand Castel corridor courtesy of some clever trompe l'oeil, exquisite laser-cut panels or a zen-like ombre in pastels? See the Ideabook for details and more inspiration!

September 10, 2012

Dancing Kung-Fu Praying Mantises

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I've always thought insects were neat. I've never been afraid of them and wouldn't dare squish one in a tissue simply because it was in my house, though I have been known to hoover up ants. (Not up my nose a la Ozzy Osbourne, in case that needed clarifying.) Praying mantises were my favourite growing up in Canada, with their tiny, alien-like, articulated heads that rotate nearly all the way around, and those raised and ready lobster-like claws. They were a constant presence around our house in the spring and summer.

I was a very sensitive little girl and as mentioned didn't like seeing bugs killed. One summer day our neighbour who was a dad and a nice man walked up our driveway where I was standing with my mom. After a few minutes of chatting he walked over to where a big black spider was sitting and put with it a praying mantis he'd just found. He said something like "They're gonna fight. Watch him kill it." I was stunned and horrified, my trusted neighbour was facilitating insect bloodsport! For fun! I screamed at the top of my lungs "I HATE YOUUUU!" and ran into the house and flopped on my bed sobbing. My mother came in and assured me he'd separated the two and that he was very sorry. I think I was made to go out and hear his apology because he felt so bad. He probably would have loved this (scroll down to the insect militia in battle).

Anyway, what brought us here is the work of Igor Siwanowicz, known for his incredible macro portraits of creatures of all kinds, through which he demonstrates a special fondness for the praying mantis. I had no idea such fascinating and brilliant species existed, we only had the green and brown kind hanging around the house. The Polish-born Siwanowicz is based in Munich where he photographs insects he acquires and breeds, in his home studio. That's commitment to one's subject. As for his love for the little guys, he told The Telegraph: "I have always been fascinated by insects even from childhood. You could say that I am sort of a public relations representative in service of creepy-crawlies. I think mantids are totally slick and sexy, and have style. I take 'weird' and 'bizarre' as positive adjectives."

In case you're wondering if Siwanowicz is doing something gross to get his shots, the answer is "no". There's no fishing line pulling those tiny claws up in the air. He explains: "Animals are very unpredictable and uncooperative, and there is almost no way to force them into collaboration. One can use tricks though - moths and butterflies are very docile freshly after hatching. Most otherwise fidgety insects can be approached early in the morning, when the temperature is low and their metabolism hasn't kicked in yet." In other words, like us before we've had our coffee.

Here are some of my favourite shots of his praying mantises, as you've never seen them before:

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A spectacular flower praying mantis - the texture captured from the wings!

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A Malaysian orchid praying mantis which I think is just exquisite (above and below)

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Mmm...flies for lunch! (Actually that's pretty gross)

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 Look at this amazing creature, the giant devil's flower mantis (above and below)

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It's easy to see that Igor's main influence is the work of the designer of the monster from the Alien films, HR Giger.

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Give us a hug? A large African praying mantis opens up to Igor in his home studio

Photos by Igor Siwanowicz

July 23, 2012

Cupcake Monday! Nostalgic, Illustrative Wedding Cakes

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A few weeks ago we admired the painterly cakes of Nevie Pie Cakes, and I had saved her wedding designs for a separate post, they were just so charming and sweet, in an understated way. I thought I'd seen it all when it comes to types of wedding cakes, but this is the first I've seen of the cakemaker creating a nostalgic feel by drawing upon the illustration style of children's books of the mid-1900s. My mother-in-law kept every book from my husband's childhood, which are all in near-perfect condition, despite being read often (this was not the way things were in our house, covers looked chewed even after we had to give away our dog), and we now read them every summer with our daughter when we visit. I especially love the Golden books. When I look at the cake above it reminds me of them. I don't think I could eat this cake, it would be like devouring childhood memories! 

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Nevie-Pie Cakes' display at Selfridges - could you walk by without picking up something?

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A vintage blue love-bird budgie wedding cake with 'lace' appliques and handpainted flowers

Photos from Nevie-Pie Cakes

July 16, 2012

Cupcake Monday! Pastel Shades, Flowers and Ribbons

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Last week I did a shoot for Ladybird Cakes, a local cake supply shop and a place to get gorgeous occasion cakes, too. The talented owner, Laura, bakes and decorates the cakes herself, always from scratch; she says, "It's really the taste that counts" and you can't argue with that, as beautiful as they may be, they are meant to be eaten! 

I love her simple yet elegant approach to her cakes: soft shapes and the prettiest shades of fondant. The floral decorations are handmade by Laura, it's her forté, but you can learn her secrets in the classes offered at Ladybird which also include specialty cakes, figure modelling and cupcake decorating which I did early this year, and it was well worth it (and included a very nice lunch, too!).

Or if you're already capable, her online shop stocks everything you need to make your own delicate beauties. 

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Photos © The Swelle Life

July 12, 2012

Fred Butler SS12: Our Summer Sun Has Arrived!

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The reception was hosted by Susie Bubble, seen studying one of the textural sorbet outfits

Last autumn I saw some of Fred Butler's SS12 presentation at London Fashion Week. I had to be quick despite this being the collection I was looking most forward to, because my evening train back to Newcastle was leaving across town in just over an hour. To walk into the Portico Rooms at Somerset House,  see this thing of pure joy, and have to rush through it was just cruel. I took photos of the three outfits being modelled, after stopping to take in each one in - you can't not smile when doing this! - then ran off just as more models appeared in high-inducing oufits, but I was already late and I left with a whimper (and I mean literally, people looked at me). So I tried to take a shortcut to Kings Cross which wound up being a longer way, and missed my train by 20 seconds. Swearing and some self-flagellation followed. When I returned home I was so excited about the photos and posted a teaser for the presentation, then my hard drive crashed a few days later, obviously a punishment for not getting onto the main post sooner. After five days in the IT hospital and being told to write a eulogy for my laptop, our local guy saved it and the hard drive was recovered, but there was no guarantee that everything would be there. This drawn-out tale leads me to today, when I finally, and purely by chance, found my lost Fred Butler and Craig Lawrence photos which I thought were gone forever, my record of the best of what I saw for spring at  LFW.

And technically it's still summer, eh? Not that it matters, Fred's clothes and accessories aren't bound by seasonal restraints; colour is celebrated simply because it's a new day and one must get dressed in something, so why not make it happy? Her palette takes shape though unusual forms that must be the result of manipulation, playing around with soft textiles and rigid materials like perspex, and whatever she can sculpt to create things that are joyful, sunny, and different, but not simply for the sake of it. Her style is tightly honed and elegant in its own way. I took a pass on the last LFW as it wasn't a good time to be away from my family, and when I saw what I missed, a salon showing of her AW12 collection, it just stung. If you love pastel harmonies, you will melt like blue bubblegum ice cream on a summer day (that is, unless you're in England!!)

This is the video for Fred Butler SS12 followed by the photos, and it's well worth clearing an hour to watch her videos on Vimeo, they are one of my few go-tos for daydreaming and you can see why:

 

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Fred has a knack for making things that leave you desperate to run your fingers over them. But I didn't touch the model's feet or forearms.

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She must not have seen what she was wearing, otherwise she'd be smiling.

 

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Photos © The Swelle Life

June 28, 2012

Missoni's First Interior-designed Residence Unveiled

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Missonihome have already brought their vividly textured lifestyle concept to the world through their branded hotels in Edinburgh - I haven't stayed but I've eaten at their restaurant Cucina and it was fantastic, from the food to the pattered plates and walls - and in Kuwait. And now in partnership with Century Properties, the fashion house unveils the interior design of its first residential building, the 52-storey, tropical rainforest-infused design condo, Acqua Livingstone, in the Philippine capital of Manila.

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Acqua Livingstone will have 645 units ranging from 27sqm to 140sqm, with one to three bedrooms. A private collection of special units called Acqua Privé will also be available to purchase.

Showcasing the regenerating Pasig River into its waterfront design, the residence features a central amenity area called The Pebble, a four-storey sports and leisure complex with three waterfalls. At the Pebble’s ground floor is the RiverWalk Promenade that features a stretch of restaurants, bars and cafes. Next to it is the Boardwalk, where an exclusive water shuttle will take residents to and from the Makati riverside. 


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Not for fans of beige.

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The Canopy at Acqua Livingstone. The lower level will house functions rooms, business center, an indoor and outdoor gym, Jacuzzi, a library and spa. The upper level is a social space dedicated to interaction and entertainment with an amphitheatre, lounge, DJ booth and dance floor, pool with swim-up bar (see below), and barbecue facilities. Tying these two levels together is a fanciful organic wire-mesh tree that winds its way up and connects to the mezzanine floor, where residents can enjoy surrounding views or a meal in the open-air dining area.

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Playing with perspective in the lobby of the residence

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 Look at that. It's like the Garden of Eden with a swim-up bar.

Images courtesy MISSONIHOME and Century Properties

June 12, 2012

exhibition: when racing and fashion collide

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In terms of fashion, the races tend to conjure images of large hats competing for attention, silk tea dresses, and for some, a pivotal scene from Pretty Woman. But a group of fashion students from the prestigious Central Saint Martins College of Arts and Design saw beyond this, and, inspired by a day at the races, have created garments for a one-off exhibition in East London titled 'A Day at the Races'. 

The Annexe, part of the renowned Brick Lane Gallery, will host the unique designs from the 13 – 18 June 2012, offering the public the opportunity to see the students’ modern and vibrant take on attire for a day at the races, at this six-day, free-to-view exhibition. Featuring twenty-three designs created by fashion design students specialising in womenswear, the exhibition showcases a range of handmade garments from a futuristic take on a top hat and tails, to traditional tweed, couture dresses, hand-stitched quilting and turf-inspired shoes.

The students on the course - alumni include Stella McCartney, Christopher Kane and Hussein Chalayan - were answering a cut-and-make brief set by Racing for Change, an initiative set up to broaden the appeal of horseracing.

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Willie Walters, Course Director of BA (Hons) Fashion at Central Saint Martins describes how the project's designs were developed: “Starting with an exhilarating outing to Newbury Racecourse, students began working on themes which they drew from their experience of the day. They researched equestrian dress, attended a lecture from fashion historian Marie McLoughlin on the development of the riding habit and finally made their decisions on their own particular avenue of research to follow in order to create their fashion silhouette. The results can now be seen at this exhibition.”

I unfortunately am not able to attend, but I do have a few favourites from the exhibition lookbook. Here's a preview, along with the designer's story behind the outfit:

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RICHARD MALONE. This design was inspired by Richard’s trip to Newbury Racecourse, when he observed some children who were also at the raceday. They were fully immersed in the day’s activities, and were observed spinning in every direction as they tried to take in all of the excitement. The dress is made of hand-painted panels, each of which represents a scene from the races through a child’s perspective. It has been carefully tailored to flare during movement, based on the children’s original spinning movement.

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DAISY COLLINGRIDGE. The inspiration for this garment came from photographs taken at some local riding stables, when Daisy got an insight into the lives of horses and how they are looked after. The horses were all absent from their stables, but their blankets and other gear remained. The quilted numnahs, which sit beneath the saddle, is where the inspiration for this dress has come from; incorporating horse images within a hand-quilted design.

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NICOLE WALUGEMBE NABISERE. A trip back to Uganda Kampala reminded Nicole of her home life, which she then compared to the classism of 18th century Britain. This resulting traditional court coat turns into a shower proof jacket – protection against Britain’s rainy weather – and also incorporated Ugandan fabrics to represent the tribes from her home country. The trousers are shaped on the jockey’s breeches.

Photos: Wiglius de Bie

May 31, 2012

Beautiful Book: 'Birds of a Feather Shop Together'

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The books I loved most as a little girl had two elements in common: lovely and colourful pictures,  and enchanting stories. The stuff of wonderful daydreams that made childhood magical. As the years have passed, I've found that through their vivid imagery and words, these affections have remained firmly embedded in the mind and in the heart.

So what a treat is to continue the tradition, thanks to Birds of a Feather Shop Together, a gorgeous and witty book of 'Aesop's Fables for the Fashionable Set', adapted by author Sandra Bark who serves up life lessons with delicious fashion savvy.  Bil Donovan masterfully brings the fables to life with his vibrant watercolour and ink illustrations, taking the anthology from bookshelf to proud display.

It's such a joy to read; a fashion and beauty indulgence that feels a bit of a guilty pleasure until you reach the end of the tale and see that fashion and morals can indeed coexist! The original stories are found at the back of the book, though once you've read Bark's there's no going back.

This book has become one of my daughter's favourites, and when I have to put it down because it's bedtime, she invariably reaches over and opens it back up to have a longer look at Bil's illustration for that story. I love that this book is one she'll remember for the rest of her life.

Birds of a Feather Shop Together is a hardcover book  (the cover has a gorgeous texture with brilliant colour saturation) published by Harper Collins and includes 17  illustrated stories plus their originals. It is available to buy for £12.95.  

Huge thanks to Bil Donovan for introducing me to this beautiful book and to Harper Collins for providing the copy. It is much loved.

About the author and illustrator:

Sandra Bark is a New York Times bestselling author who collaborates on books with notable figures. The founder and curator of the street art blog the Scenic Sidewalk, Sandra lives and works in Brooklyn, New York.

Bil Donovan is a fashion illustrator whose work has appeared in various publications and advertising campaigns worldwide. A brand ambassador for Christian Dior Beauty, he teaches fashion illustration at the Fashion Institute of Technology and is the author of Advanced Fashion Drawing: Lifestyle Illustration and illustrator of The Dress Doctor. He lives in New York City.

To read about Bil on The Swelle Life, including our interview, browse the Bil Donovan category here.

Here's a look at some the book's stunning story illustrations, by Bil Donovan:

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'Birds of a Feather' - the level of detail is just incredible!

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'A Birkin in the Hand'
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'Carpe Dior'

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'Amanda and the Grape Gaultier'


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'Best Dressed'

Images provided courtesy of Bil Donovan

May 21, 2012

Cupcake Monday! The Magnificent Artistry of Cake Opera Co.

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Cute cakes have their place - it's nice to eat something pretty without feeling as if you're destroying it. But there is another level altogether in the world of cakes, an artistry where the ingredients are regarded as media, the edible kind, and cakes are masterfully transformed into objects of exquisite beauty. 

Alexandria Pelligrino is one of these extraordinary talents. As a fine artist she travelled to Florence to continue her art studies, then took up residence in Bologna, the gastronomical centre of Italy, where she became enchanted by food. This led her back to Toronto where she enrolled in the Patisserie program at Le Cordon Bleu. It was here that she met her future partner and pastry chef, Jessica Smith (more on her later!). Alexandria went on to found Cake Opera Co. in 2007 and has since achieved international recognition as one of the industry's leading cake designers. One glance at her stunning cakes - and her! (below) - and you wouldn't question why.

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There are dozens of incredible creations on the Cake Opera Co.'s website, so I'm going to focus on my favourite of the cakes for this post. In the header image we see the Masquerade Ball-inspired Morretto Mask, one of the first of her signature 18th Century French figurine cakes.  The "doctor death" mask, worn by bourgeoisie to conceal their illicit rendezvous, juxtaposes the fawn in her arms, a symbol of birth and innocence. How often do we get symbolism in our cake?!


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This is Cake Opera Co.'s Milk Glass cake which I think is my favourite for its simple yet luxuriously textured detailing, created to resemble 1920s milk glass. The original was created as the piece du résistance for their table display at the 2010 Wedding Co. Show. A milk glass collector herself, Alexandria studied and combined many of her own cherished pieces into the final design. The desired result was to be a sleek yet vintage looking cake, evoking interest with its dynamic architectural form and contrasting this silhouette against more simple, pressed glass-like motifs. It is finished with a spray of confectionary glaze to resemble lustrous glass.

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The Château de Versailles' Galerie des Glaces inspired this magnificent Hall of Mirrors cake. Created completely of cast sugar tiles and 24Kt gold molded details, it was constructed as an ode to Louis XIV, Dauphine of France, lover of luxury and excess. I think it's almost as ambitious an undertaking as the Hall of Mirrors itself!

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'Pomegranate' is the four-tiered beauty that was borne of a request from event stylist Cynthia Martin to collaborate on a project at The Fermenting Cellar. The Style Me Pretty wedding blog had chosen Cynthia to take a Bohemian Romance-themed inspiration board and turn it into reality.

The cake is adorned with luxurious hand-sewn ribbon medallions and brooch detail, as well as an evocative hand sculpted pomegranate crowning the piece which denotes mystery and opulence. I love it when the cake designer uses textiles as decoration, it's such a lush effect.

November 18, 2011

Floral Friday! Papery Printed Porcelain from Bath

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This past weekend I went on a girls' trip to visit a friend in Bristol (no one makes toast like you, Sophie) and it included a visit to dreamy Bath, which is a must when in town. We had gorgeous autumn weather and I really wished I had my camera, but I left it at home so I wouldn't be holding up the group or miss everything that was happening. I took lots of pictures in spring of last year which you can see here here here and here. (Though I do find my old photos a bit cringe-worthy so if you look, do it quickly, eh?)

While roaming the shops in Bath I popped into Rostra & Rooksmoor Galleries - I couldn't resist a turquoise-painted shop - and saw a collection of works by local ceramicist Janine Roper which immediately attracted me due to their Delftware influences. And then they really intrigued me when I noticed they weren't poured into moulds but had a papery effect in that they were obviously hand-formed. I didn't get her name (must work on that) but the woman at the gallery was really helpful and explained that the artist rolls out the porcelain into sheets, cuts and shapes it and then screenprints it. That is is so neat! She uses mostly traditional cobalt blue oxides and draws her print design from vintage 'Sunday Best' tea sets and other domestic items from her life.

I had to take one home and decided on the jug, a charming little piece that stands about 6" high. I pictured delicate flowers in it but really wanted to actually use it, as a jug. But I wasn't sure if that was a stupid idea (that happens a lot with me). Was it safe? Would I break it? I got all excited when I read the artist's statement the lovely woman gave me and saw the words "pour exquisite drinks from her range of pitchers of all different sizes." Permission! I've been displaying the jug on my aqua French side table in my living room, then last night when I was putting a tray of tea together I took it into the kitchen and filled it with milk. This was exciting to me. Is milk exquisite? No, not unless it comes from an exceptionally beautiful cow. But it made my tea ritual much nicer.

I know what I want to do in my next life. Study ceramics in Bath. That sounds pretty good to me.

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You can see where the porcelain is folded, giving it a papery effect

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The spout has been applied as a separate piece but it appears seamless from the exterior

Photos and collage © The Swelle Life

October 24, 2011

Cupcake Monday! Simply Beautiful Wedding Cakes

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In any kind of design, simple is the toughest look to get right. The risk is a bland, underwhelming result if the lines, details and quality of the materials and craftsmanship aren't elegant and refined. Wedding cakes included. (But at least if it's a dud you can still eat it. You can't eat a pair of boring beige pants.) Maisie Fantaisie is my favourite for simple at its very best and most special. And if I ever get married again I'd want their blush pink two-tiered cake with perfect rows of tiny sugar pearls - just kidding honey! (About the wedding, not the cake.)

Mine was blue with three wide but shallow layers and simple flowers here and there. Not nearly as impressive as these but it caught my eye (you know me and blue) and I went for it without a further look so as not to obsess about it and check it off the list. (Bridezilla I was not. Wifezilla, probably.) The cake was tasty but generally forgettable. One cake I will never forget is my friends' which had a custom made bride and groom topper that looked remarkably like the two of them. Before the cake cutting it was crudely snatched off by a rambunctious young nephew who wanted to play with it, and when he realised it was made of sugar he began to suck on their heads! American Bridal has some fun and unique wedding cake toppers for all kinds of themes, including a groom piggy-backing his bride on skis! Mine would have been a lone groom looking around nervously – I was 20 minutes late for my walk down the aisle. (I blame a friend who locked herself in the bathroom of my suite to get ready when I needed to get in!)

And I have a small confession - I ate nearly the entire cake myself. But not at once! We did start to cut and serve it of course but I think a lot of people didn't trust a blue cake so we didn't cut the whole thing, had the better part of the upper layers were left. So we brought it home and froze it, and I had a piece a day until it was gone. I regret nothing!

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Photos: Maisie Fantaisie

September 22, 2011

LFW: Fred Butler SS12 Teaser

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It's going to take me a few more days to edit the rest of the shots I took at Fred Butler's mindblowing SS12 presentation at LFW on Sunday, but I couldn't wait to show one of my favourites - a head piece or hat, lilac-pink (one of the best colours ever) hexagonal sunglasses and fabric earrings that follow through on the sorbet softness of the voluminous scarf/top/jacket (in the full shot it's like a longer bolero style). The fact that I can't quite define it exactly is one of the reasons I love Fred Butler.

More to come!

Photos © The Swelle Life

July 30, 2011

Floral Friday! Wallington's Walled Garden

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Now we enter the walled garden at Wallington at last. After a beautiful walk in, past the mansion and past the lush lily pond with baby coots frollicking about and a bed floating in it, I came upon the wall and went through the wood and iron door. On the other side was the most stunningly landscaped garden with sheep grazing on the green hills that overlook this romantic dreamland.

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Photos © The Swelle Life

July 08, 2011

Floral Friday! Contrasts at Wallington

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I went back to Wallington in Northumberland today to photograph their stunning walled garden which I missed when I visited last year. And had I actually known what I was missing I wouldn't never have been able to leave. Last time, I spent a couple of hours in the mansion, particularly in the dollhouse rooms which you can see here and here (I never did post anywhere near what I had altogether, I hope to dig out the rest one day).

These gardens quickly became my new favourite place and I'd love to go back with a picnic and just take it all in without my eyeball pressed against the viewfinder. A serene, huge pond covered in lily pads with baby coots (a black marsh bird) running atop greeted us on the way to the garden gate, and I couldn't pull myself away. (Somewhere my husband is nodding firmly and slowly with eyes glazed over.) Oh! And there was a red and white bed floating in it! Come back next Friday to see what I'm talking about.

To start, here are some of my favourite shots from a small patch in their enormous and breathtaking garden. The gardener seems to have wanted to create a bit of drama and planted a few varieties of vivid flowers with leaves so dark they appeared black. I especially love the first photo, the flowers appear as if they were painted.

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Photos © The Swelle Life

July 06, 2011

Dior Fall Haute Couture...Things Have Changed

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On Monday, the house of Christian Dior presented its first haute couture collection without John Galliano. We all know why. At this point, even dogs know it, so I won't go into it.

Names for an illustrious replacement have been tossed around. But for now, the house is dealing with the situation as Alexander McQueen did with Sarah Burton and have promoted the second in command to the lead designer role. Bill Gaytten got to do what he wanted for Dior this time out. I suspect he was behind the previous few collections as well, under Galliano's direction or creating in the style of to make it appear so. Who knows. Fashion is a glorious illusion in all kinds of ways.

At first glance of the opening looks, there's no doubt which brand this collection represents. The sharply feminine Dior silhouette that celebrates the tiny waist with those full flirty skirts is alive and well, but that seems to be a ploy to ease us in before things take an unfamilar turn. It's clear someone is trying out a new vision.

Style.com's Tim Blanks identifies three architectural influences, two of which I can plainly see as they're quite literal:

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The Memphis movement of the 80s

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A Frank Gehry skirt with the Memphis movement accenting the look in Stephen Jones' pastel pink sphere hat which is total fun

And I'm guessing as to where Jean-Michel Frank figures in, is it within the texture as opposed to structure?

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And here's where things boomeranged in a new direction before returning to quintessential Dior style in a finale of those voluminous ball gowns (above). I think an entire collection like this (below) would have resulted in even sourer faces in the seats.


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Then things went pear-shaped. Tim Blanks described the most awkward conclusion to the show:

"Then came Karlie Kloss, dressed as a Pierrot, sad clown all alone in the spotlight as the soundtrack failed and glitter showered down. But the stardust missed her by this much. And that felt like some kind of crazy cosmic metaphor."

 

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Was this spectacle meant to be a replacement for, or distraction from, Galliano's famous end of show bow? Surely. And it may have worked, if it worked!

Seems a certain ghost is having a play at Dior.

Photos from Style.com

May 20, 2011

Versailles Series: Marie Antoinette's Chateau, the Petit Trianon Pt. 1

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Originally built by Louis XV between 1762-1768 for his long-term mistress, Madame de Pompadour (who did not wear a pompadour), the Petit Trianon was eventually given to Marie Antoinette by Louis XVI when he became the King of France (and let's not forget Navarre) in 1774. Unlike the elder mistress of his grandfather who died four years before its completion, Queen Marie actually did live in it.

At 19, she'd already been married for five years after being shipped off from Austria by her mother to marry the future king of France and didn't care much for her royal duties.  She spent much of her time in the (relatively) little chateau and its gardens with her few friends, and later with her children.

It is said that even King Louis wasn't allowed to enter his wife's domain without her permission (impressive) and that he really didn't mind. (You can take that both literally and figuratively - he was more into his hobbies than his wife and they didn't consummate their marriage until 1777, according to a letter Marie Antoinette wrote to her mother. However, considering they were 15 and 14 years old when they married it makes the whole thing far less gross. )

And our tour continues! (The really cool rooms start with the next post.) As you walk into the grounds of the Petit Trianon you see...

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Have you seen that Seinfeld episode where George's dad puts a pool table in a tiny room and every time someone goes to shoot they slam their cue into the wall, themselves or someone else? This room reminds me of that.

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Lots more to follow and it gets better. This tour is a slow burner!

Photos © The Swelle Life

May 09, 2011

Cupcake Monday! Fiona Cairns' Royal Creation

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You may not be aware, but two Fridays ago there was a wedding in England between one of the world's lesser known princes and a girl he met at school. It went off with minimal fanfare and left the British populace largely unaffected but for a vicar who did cartwheels up the aisle after the ceremony, though rumour has it a red squirrel crawled up his pantleg and the gymnastics were a peppy attempt to loosen it from his knickers.  It's not known whether the squirrel has since repented.

Kidding aside, the cake was pretty spectacular. Sometimes you see the results of what wealth can afford people and you think "What a waste of money." Not here, at least in my opinion. Renowned British cakemaker Fiona Cairns created the official version in an all-white, flower and ensignia-adorned traditional fruitcake.  Its delicate and elegant and not at all pretentious, in relative terms, compared to some ostentatious celeb cakes which were five and six plus feet of what would appear to be subjective beauty. Norway's Crown Prince Haakon and his bride Mette-Marit had a 7 tiered wedding cake of raisins and rum that weighed 140 Kg, measured 2.69-metre high and was decorated with Viking ships. Hmmm...I hope it tasted good.

Fiona talks about how she felt when she was asked to make the Royal wedding cake and explains the 'language of flowers', a Victorian tradition that Kate asked her to incorporate into the design of the decoration:

 

The delicate details:

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Fullscreen capture 02052011 225718.bmpFiona Cairns with her Royal masterpiece

Photos © AP

March 10, 2011

Interiors & Exteriors: Saltburn-by-the-Sea

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Now I love our beach, the aptly named Longsands that spans Tynemouth to Cullercoats, and the neighbouring idyllic King Edwards Bay with the Priory Castle overlooking the North Sea from its beautiful, craggy cliff. But last weekend I really fell hard for the beach and seaside community of Saltburn-by-the-Sea in North Yorkshire. We were visiting our lovely friends in their new home in Yarm for the first time and they spoiled us in all kinds of ways, and one of them was taking us to their local beach to share the beauty.

Not only was the beach gorgeous and expansive with an impressive look-out pier, there were all kinds of charming little shops, restaurants and ice cream stands, and of course anything one needed to surf (no, I didn't, that would look ridiculous).  It was a clear, sunny day and people from all over had come to pretend it was spring. I have never seen a queue so long for fish and chips, and in England that's saying a lot.  (It was worth the wait!)

This post  is for this week's Interiors & Exteriors feature and it's long enough sticking to the theme, so I'll post the beach shots separately. Are you craving fish and chips now? I am.

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In the town, just a quick uphill walk from the beach, there were some great shops. I was already lagging behind and we needed to eat lunch so I didn't go in, but I wanted some photos of the wonderful window displays of Northern Lights Interiors

As I was snapping away I saw a woman smiling from inside - you can see her below! and I smiled and waved. As I headed down the road she came out after me and asked if I'd take photos of the storefront, they'd been having trouble getting them without cars in the way and I was happy to oblige. I even had a man ham it up for me!

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We passed a random rusted-out door that appeared to lead to nowhere with a keypad right in the middle. I'll bet if you pushed the right numbers it would transport you to another dimension. Prove me wrong!

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  DSC_0263 This photo would have been so much cooler if I'd waited just 10 more seconds...

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On display at Arts Bank were lamps and tables in vibrant patchwork by Jane Atkinson and a metal sculpture by Ray Lonsdale. Each contains a 'secret meaning' in the form of an object placed in the head. Now, if I'd read the brief beside this life-size contemplative man instead of taking a photo and reading at home, I would have looked and been able to tell you what was in his head! 

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Photos by Denise Grayson

February 26, 2011

LFW: Bora Aksu's Exquisitely Structured Textures and Knits

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I LOVED this show. Turkish born and London-based Bora Aksu spoiled us with all kinds of delicous details worked into his highly structured pieces.  It was one of those shows where I found myself making audible 'ooh and ah' sounds as I snapped away. And that's how it should be!

In a predominantly black, silver and grey palette with pops of emerald green every few looks, there were intricate and bold knits; lace and panels of sheer chiffon and leather - the latter which at times resembled a breast plate, like a glam Joan of Arc, and was seen plain as well as embossed, outlined with large stitch holes; jackets and shirts with reconstructed tuxedo elements; harness belts; flirty skirts; and a clear plastic-y material that showed up in sleeves, panels and skirts for a more structured transparency than the chiffon could offer.

As you can see, in many of his outfits Aksu used all of these elements to create complex, highly textured garments to stunning effect.  You want to take them in your hands and have a good look and feel at everything that's going on - front, sides and back. The collection is a perfect balance of hard and soft, the silks and knits tempering the rigidness of the leather to make it something wearable.

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Photos by Denise Grayson

January 31, 2011

Chanel goes to the ballet; Givenchy to Japan

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Riccardo Tisci followed up last season with a kind of 2.O of Givenchy's winter anatomy references with his new obsession: Japan. The pieces in the photos below aren't the most laboriously detailed ones but they're my favourites, and the backs of all of them are even more impressive than the front. However, it's worth mentioning that according to Tim Blanks, one really out there outfit required 2,000 hours of cutting and 4,000 of sewing, and a single pair of trousers had 90 meters of plissé. Now that's haute couture! You know my feeling that your eyeballs should desperately plead 'May I have a rest, please?' upon viewing an haute couture show and your brain should fizzle from over-stimulation and amazement.

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Karl Lagerfeld delivered what we always want from Chanel. Pretty, delicate, youthful beauty, this time inspired by light and the ballet. There were skirts and dresses over skinny pants and leggings, lots of floaty chiffon - I don't need to mention boucles and tweeds do I? and - flats! At first I wondered why the models looked so 'normal', and that was because they weren't Amazons in their little ballet shoes. I have to say I prefer the freakishly elevated walk down the runway but hey, at least there were no clips for the blooper reel.

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Kristen McMenamy closed the show:

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Photos: Style.com

January 24, 2011

Cupcake Monday! The 'Most Beautiful Cake I've Ever Seen' Edition

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Cutting into this cake should be considered attempted murder. I've seen a lot of gorgeous cakes since Cupcake Monday began in 2009 but this has to be the most beautiful yet. This stunning wedding creation is from pastry chef Erin Gardner of New Hampshire's Wild Orchid Baking Company.

Cameos, a skeleton key, pearl buttons and delicate brooches spill out of a vintage jewellery box, all edible of course - if you can bring yourself to do it! And know that I would fight you if you tried.

Here's a closer look at the detail:

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As for what's inside it could be bricks for all I'd care because I'd never bring a knife to it! Just a little lick, maybe.

Here are more gorgeous cakes from Wild Orchid Baking Co:

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All photos from Wild Orchid Baking Company

January 13, 2011

Intergalactic Transport Blackmarket: For Quilts, of Course!

 

 

Can you say your quilt is made by an Intergalactic remnants trader? You can, if you buy one of Jimmy McBride's aka Stellar Quilts hand embroidered creations. I have never, ever seen quilts - or anything else from an independent craftsperson/designer, well he's a textile artist actually - promoted this way. I pity anyone trying to top this film featured on Etsy for ingenuity, it's a tall order. Traditional craftsmanship combined with forward thinking has limitless potential for new concepts that appeal to what lies within so many of us these days - a yearning for that nostalgic feeling, and the wonder of technology. They can co-exist! I love McBride's message that no matter how advanced we as a civilisation become, we will always need comfort and warmth.

Do you remember when you were a teenager and started going over to guys' houses (only when parents were home, Mom and Dad if you're reading this - and they were gay!) and you first saw their bedroom (as you passed the open door on your way to the bathroom) and you saw that they still had a space-themed bedroom? McBride's quilts are the perfect transition piece from space-loving boy to man, so if you're 15 and you're still into your planets and stars and spaceships and beginning to feel a little uncomfortable about it but you aren't ready to pack it all in for the grey or navy striped bedspread, you don't have to leave it all behind - you can still have planets and stars plus nebulas, spacestations and a scene depicting an "attack on the energy collectors surrounding V838 in the 3rd quadrant occupied by the Reni"! Each quilt tells a part of McBride's intricately woven space odyssey so if you really want to indulge in the fantasy, oh boy can you! And you've invested in a piece of art you can really live with.

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Hey, wait, it's ok Mom and Dad! That's (my brother) John's room I'm remembering! It was like being in Battlestar Galactica. Which reminds me that the only non-girlie thing I ever wore was Battlestar Galactica running shoes when I was 9. I don't know what happened there but they must have been the only pair Buster Brown had in my size at that particular time my feet grew another centimetre. That's the only place my mom would take us because they measured our feet properly and sold proper shoes. In other words, they didn't sell Sparks. I remember one day we had to take off our shoes at school for some reason and I was the last to grab mine from the pile to put back on, and the teacher held them up and said 'Whose are these?' and I sat there looking around thinking some dummy doesn't even recognise his own shoes. The other kids had to remind me they were mine. I tried to pretend that of course I knew they were my shoes, I was just taking my time getting up. Me and those BGs, we just didn't gel.

December 13, 2010

Wedgwood's Beautiful Baubles and Blues Pt. 2 (and Teacups!)

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So I'm back with more Wedgwood baubles and the teacups I was talking about in my last post. Thanks to Alexandra for letting us know in the comments that the baubles are not only still available in the U.S., they are on sale! And they have even more designs! Now why does the U.S. site have more options than the UK site? It's a British company! Stop being stingy at home, Wedgwood, they've got more than they need yet we're deprived. Oh, the injustice.

I'm kidding of course (almost). I so want that teacup and saucer so I can display it on my mantle year round. And how about that three-tier cake? Oh, wait - back up. I just checked and they're gone, as they should be!

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As for the teacups, I was at first lusting after Wedgwood's Cuckoo collection, those are three with the large floral patterns in the first collage which come in pastel blue, pink, green and peach. Then I saw the cup and saucer set from their Harlequin collection with the gold stripe deco handle and I instantly cheated on the Cuckoos. And the pink and gold daisy mug, wow. If I had those two I think I would have to put all of my food in a blender so I could drink out of the cups as much as possible. (Ew. On second thought I would just look at them a lot. I eat a lot of pizza.)

The dotty cup and saucer in 1950s minty turquoise - the absolute best colour in the world in my mind - is from Royal Albert. I have one of their sets coming for Christmas, I had to order my own gift as it was low stock and I would have missed out. Does that mean I can use it as soon as it arrives? It's a gorgeous lilac floral set of just one cup and saucer and I can't wait to have it, but that was before I saw the deco cup and lost my mind. Even the box is a dream.

I mentioned in the last post that I was going to do a little story on how I've brought blues into the house. (And by that I mean colours and not PMS. Though to be fair both qualify.) Then I realised that it's not the best time for photos as I've got Christmas decorations up, but I will do it. Especially now that we've got an antique tallboy sideboard painted in a saturated cerulean blue which I found today through sheer luck at our local market. For £80. And they delivered it free. That never happens to me, I'm not that girl! It made our kitchen and I can't stop staring at it. After the holidays I'll do my show and tell. I'm going to stare at it now! (It smells a bit funny but that's ok.)

December 11, 2010

Wedgwood's Beautiful Baubles and Blues

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Let me preface this with something I hope I don't have to say too often: Don't get too excited. These are all sold out. But they are just so pretty and as this blog is a collection of beautiful things, well, I just want them on it. I'm like putty when it comes to powdery pastels and icy blues (our Christmas tree is white with arctic blue baubles) and Wedgwood is synonymous with slate blue pottery, hence 'Wedgwood blue', as well as Royal service and the Peter Rabbit dishes from our collective childhood. Wedgwood was established by innovative ceramacist Josiah Wedgwood in 1759. Can you imagine the pride in knowing that 250 years later your legacy would live on and flourish in the spirit in which it was conceived and nurtured? Except that I don't think he was doing designer collaborations back then.

I have three of their little dishes that I bought at the Tynemouth market for I think £1 each. At that price you can blow your nose on them, but that's not really good use now is it? Below are two of them along with a handpainted gold leaf Japanese dish from 1877 which is the thing that the younger children of friends feel compelled to run up to and slam with their fist. It's a miracle it's still intact. It only cost £2.50 but that's not the point. Pocket change for an antique and people still barter if you can believe it. I witnessed one woman trying to get a bargain on a figurine that was 50p. I'll pay 35p for that but no way I'm paying 50! Those vendors stand out there all day and may only make a few quid for their trouble. You might as well just steal it when she's not looking, that would be more dignified!

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Okay, at this point I was going to show the Wedgwood teacups I'm in love with - collecting tea cups is a phase I've been going through for about five years now and I don't think it's a coincidence that it began when I moved to England - or go on about how I've brought blue into our house as it's the colour I'm most happy living with. I'm going to take photos of all the blue, in whatever form and do a show and tell. Seeing as it's an ungodly hour I'm going to save both for follow ups. Part two coming tomorrow...

But here's a preview in the meantime, I didn't stop until I found the exact blue I wanted for the walls:

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November 22, 2010

How Not To Embarrass Yourself at a Party

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  1. Don't arrive at your holiday party going to town on a kebab.
  2. Drink in moderation to later avoid needing and therefore asking your fellow revellers if they can lend you a Tena pad (or is that just me?)
  3. Check that your new exorbitantly priced heels are not dragging half a toilet roll behind you. 
  4. No matter how good you think you are at doing The Robot - don't.
  5. And most importantly, make an entrance in a gorgeous dress that is guaranteed to bear no resemblance whatsoever to the latest high street window display, for there's a good chance if you do, you won't be the only one representing. You'll be spending the night hiding behind pillars and portly gents while guests are mentally comparing who styled it better. Who needs that? (And you had to pay for it!)

The charm of being an original amongst the identikit masses is one of the reasons I exclusively offer one-offs and limited edition pieces in Swelle Boutique, and luckily I know some very talented people who specialise in doing just that. The three dresses above, left, are one-offs from Rowanjoy, a long time Swelle favourite who uses new and vintage fabrics to create her enchanting, adorable pieces that make girls look dreamy. The Wrapped Up strapless styles are the perfect party dresses and the Obscura halter can go holiday soiree as well as resort.

On the right: It doesn't come more special than an original print created by an inspired and inspirational artist who is behind many of the prints from the London fashion week catwalks. Rob and Kate Burton are the duo known as embodied.creative, and Swelle Boutique is thrilled to have the opportunity to offer their exquisite, limited edition, made-to-order digital art print dresses to you. Thoroughly contemplated imagery is richly layered on fine silks to produce complexity and beauty in colour and texture, as seen in the stunning Babaji and Moonshadow dresses. A collection of gorgeous scarves in a choice of silks and sizes is also available.

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Wholly Cow is an English label of one-off and limited edition pieces that have beautifully handmade touches such as contrasting crocheted collars and sleeves, and hand carved oak toggles specially made for the dresses, all seen above. Fabrics are luxe and include silk crepe and Italian tweed. The lovely tweed in the toggle wrap dress above has pretty turquoise flecks throughout the pattern, complemented  by the crocheted collar. The black shift can be made in a variety of lengths with your choice of colour for the mohair silk crochet sleeves. The cobalt version is a one-off that also looks great as a top with skinny jeans.

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And if you're more of a smart top and skirt girl, there's Mitra's Victoriana mini-collection that offers a seriously figure flattering outfit of the Parlor Gathering top adorned with a list of sweet details, and its perfect accompaniment, the Promenade Pencil skirt with a lacey kick out the back which you can wear demurely or bold depending on your mood. Finish the look with the Victoriana Jacquard wool coat. All are one-offs.

By buying at Swelle Boutique you are supporting independent designers in the UK, Italy, Canada and the United States who personally create the high quality, original work that bears their name, from conception to final stitch.

October 08, 2010

Georgia Hardinge SS11: La Belle et la Bete

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I came upon the sculptural and delicately textured creations of Georgia Hardinge at London Fashion Week's exhibition at Somerset House and somehow resisted the urge to rub my face in a sleeve of soft rufffles made of layers upon layers of chiffon ribbon. The London designer's debut catwalk collection ‘La Belle et la Bete’ is in reference to the muse for the collection, Jean Cocteau. Georgia takes inspiration from the surrealism and mystique of his narrative style, combining ideas from French Baroque and romanticism through to early punk. Yes, there's a lot happening here, and it's all harmonious, exquisite and wearable.

 

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Lookbook photos courtesy Georgia Hardinge, others by Denise Grayson

October 07, 2010

Cooperative Designs SS 2011: Bollywood Babylon

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Please bear with me - I'm still catching up on London Fashion Week posts!

Upon entering the Cooperative Designs SS 2011 presentation at the Groucho Club, I felt as if I'd walked into a scene from Henry and June - if Maria de Madeiros and Uma Thurman had been wearing knitwear in Indian desert hues with leather and stud accessories in their 1920s Paris salons. A barefoot model in a striking graphic monochrome dress was playing a lively ragtime tune on the piano in the art deco-ish room which added to the charm of the scene. And it was a scene.

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There's always one face that stands out amongst the models and most keep their observations to themselves (it's so banal to notice the models), but there was one major exception here: an utterly enchanting woman in her 60s or maybe even 70s who was the talk of the room and would have stolen the show had it not been so rich and robust in colour, texture and style:

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Hang on, I'm not done yet...she's too awesome:

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Two of the girls were talking with their heads together and it reminded me of, again, Henry and June:

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The official transportation of Bollywood Babylon?

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  Photos by Denise Grayson @ The Swelle Life 

October 05, 2010

Unapologetic, Sweet Lushness at Chanel

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I find Chanel's collections reassuring. Being such a fan of lush textures, pastels, and girlie details and cuts, I sometimes feel my preferences are under-represented in a forward-looking design industry that views minimalism as the future. Or that cheap, overdone, saccharine concoctions, like those borne of Jordan's Pepto Bismol-pink-soaked brain are over-represented, which is worse for my case. Chanel reinvents the feminine, adorned woman so exquisitely and so enchantingly with each collection that if they were the lone fashion house cultivating this look, it would still be more than enough to convince the rest of the world it's an aspirational way to dress.

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An umbrella shaped like a huge hat - why haven't we seen this before?

 

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Quiver.

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Ines de la Fressange walked in the show, officially ending her long rift with Chanel, looking even more gorgeous than one would expect.

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I'm not usually a fan of denim at Chanel, in the past it has thrilled me as much as a pair of GWGs, but the jeans on the right look like proper Chanel rather than prison issue. Speaking of prison issue (with classic Chanel boucle jackets just to confuse things further):

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But isn't that little boy cute? You have to be this tiny to get away with that outfit. I'm assuming he's Brad Kroenig's son, he looks just like him. Imagine trying to explain to a two year-old that he's going to walk in a Chanel show, one of Karl Lagerfeld's last, as he's picking his nose? That's the life.

Photos: WWD.com

October 01, 2010

LFW: Little Shilpa's Tulle, Chiffon and Lace Dreams

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I love the exhibition at London Fashion Week, it's a quick and easy way to discover new designers doing exciting things in one building, while seeing your favourites' new collections in person and have a chat about them. I walked in to Somerset on the Sunday through the Embankment entrance where hat designers were grouped. It's a tough spot to be seen. I saw some very unusual hats, some odd for the sake of it, it seemed.

Then I noticed the Little Shilpa display in the corner by the door. I guess someone has to take that lonely spot? I saw delicate shapes and fabrics in the form of tulle, chiffon and lace in slate blues, taupes, grey and rose, and I floated over to them. I wasn't crazy about some of the presentations on male mannequins that look like Ken dolls, but I was still intrigued. And Ken looked ok with it, really ok with it. I fell in love with the chiffon and lace neckpiece hanging from thick chain. I wanted to touch it but Ken's eyes told me 'Noooo.' (That imaginary detail reminds me of a story. Years ago in Toronto I took a part-time job at a boutique while working at my communications job, thinking it would give me extra money. We all know where that 'extra' money went, and then some. One day the owner was helping a Japanese girl who was trying on jeans. When she came out of the changeroom he knelt down behind her and began adjusting something in the 'seat'. I swear, he wasn't a perv. She said sternly 'That not for feel!' He had no idea what she was saying so he kept doing what he was doing. Then she started swatting his hand away and he still didn't get it so I had to go over and say 'THAT NOT FOR FEEL!' The poor girl was traumatised. But I think she still bought the jeans. He should have given her a discount for the 'feel'.)

Back to Little Shilpa. I didn't see anyone there so I didn't speak to anyone, and the website only offers a teeny bit of biographical information in easily digestible form - we want to know about you, Little Shilpa! There's a comprehensive CV for download, however, if you've got the time. (I had a quick skim and after two seconds I was feeling grossly unaccomplished.) What I did gleen is that Little Shilpa is Shilpa Chavan, a Mumbai-based designer of one-off headpieces, jewellery and accessories for retail and runway. (I kind of already knew that.) You can see examples of her commercial and runway work after my poorly-lit photos.  

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 The pieces above and below were made for Manish Arora at London Fashion Week, 2005

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Life-size flowers and styling for W ad campaign

September 25, 2010

LFW: Felder Felder 'Born to be Wild'

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'Born to be Wild' was the name of Felder Felder's SS 2011 collection, inspired by 'an imaginary muse, a rebellious downtown girl fascinated by the free spirit era of Easy Rider, The Trip and the Lizard King, Jim Morrison."

Whatever Annette and Dani Felder do, it's cool. Leather and studs have been a big part of their signature look and they figured here as well. The leather, black and electric hues of blue and pink, were slashed up exquisitely like twisted slats on jackets and pants - the texture echoed on printed dresses - while the studs came in the form of metallic flecks to add soft, pretty texture to leather and chiffon. A collaboration with ic! Berlin on sunglasses also featured Felder Felder's unique studding.

By this point it's apparent that no wardrobe is complete without a piece of Felder Felder - I still can't get their leather and chiffon jacket from AW 2010/11 out of my head!

Felder Felder showed back to back with Hannah Marshall and drew a frenzied crowd that included Paloma Faith in some crazy gold and black headgear (see below, left), Erin O'Connor, and Kanye West's ex-front row companion, Amber Rose. Curious photos will follow...

 

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 Photos by Denise Grayson @ The Swelle Life

September 24, 2010

LFW: Hannah Marshall's Sublime SS 2011

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I posted the beauty shots from backstage at Hannah Marshall the other day and mentioned that the eye makeup followed the sequence of the clothes which transitioned from black to lightest grey, which you can see below. I only saw the sheer, black outfits backstage so when I went out to watch the show I was super delighted to see the exquisite sculptural details on the grey pieces, some of light chiffon in lush layers like the underside of a mushroom, others more rigid and of a heavy cotton, it appears. A rectangular piece on the back of one otherwise backless dress reminded me of angel wings. The clothes were simple and feminine with emphasis on texture, through the mix of fabrics which also included suede in the form of a harness in the opening look, and the glorious 3-D pleated details. No accessories necessary. I loved this collection and will follow Hannah Marshall closely from here on. She's proven that the hype around her is justified.

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Photos by Denise Grayson @ The Swelle Life

July 08, 2010

Paris Haute Couture: Givenchy, Gaultier, Valentino et Chanel

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Valentino's super-sweet collection, nicely balanced with a bit of weighty symbolism in the form of cages and underpinnings that tie in with its title The Dark Side of First Love, comes courtesy of Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli (proving to be the right appointment?). This is the couture collection that made me squeal. The society ladies just won't know what to do with this one. 

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Karl Lagerfeld indulged in moody-hued, embellished and beaded tapestries, sometimes with matching boots (not so sure about those but then, that's so Chanel). The first two looks are my favourites, they are divine:

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The embellished transparency combined with the textured striping of this skirt and top from Jean Paul Gaultier really appeals to me. And I just love this photo of Karlie Kloss in the chic trench looking exactly like a designer's fashion illustration come to life. The girl is not yet 18 years old and is the most sophisticated presence on the runway, and no one walks quite like her:

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Dita von Teese modelled two outfits for Gaultier. Now, I'm not sure what's going on here but I'll assume it's just an unfortunately timed photo and she's not actually doing the robot, or vogueing. Or both.

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Riccardo Tisci doesn't want to show Givenchy couture anymore, he will only do private appointments so the clothes will be that much more exclusive. They were far enough out of my reach as they were but thanks for drawing that line in the sand a little deeper. Well, that's one way it was told. Another way is that he opted for intimate presentations so the details could be fully appreciated (I like that one better.) A quick glance is all it takes to see that these opulent dresses and jackets are rich with painstakingly complex textures that are exquisite and never extraneous, and for me, that is haute couture at its most indulgent and best. And Tisci managed to do it without using black (one chocolate brown dress and jacket was close). Bravo. 

According to Style.com's Tim Blanks "He claimed his inspiration was Frida Kahlo and her three obsessions: religion, sensuality, and, given the painter's lifelong battle with spinal pain, the human anatomy. The zipper pulls were little bones, a belt was a spinal column re-created in porcelain." I'm a bit tired of anatomy as a theme as its been done to death in recent years (how many ribs and skulls can one take?) and Schiaparelli and Dali did it way back in the 30s, but when it's interpreted this beautifully - who cares?

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Those white sandals look a bit incongruent, no?

Photos Style.com

July 06, 2010

Dior's Beautiful Blooms

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Fans of flowers will be enchanted by Dior's F/W Haute Couture collection which celebrated the vivid colours and sensual textures of flora. And as we expect from high fashion there were some wonderful oddities to take things out of this world. Steven Jones created head pieces resembling florist's cellophane, which the models bee-like hairstyles - not 'beehive' like, they actually resembled the cinched abdomen shape of the little stingers - were wrapped up in, like a bouquet. The dresses were the usual Galliano ultra-feminine opulence, this time with some voluminous tulle skirts.

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This is amazing hair:

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And the prettiest flower of them all, the grandest of couturier/beekeepers:

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Photos have been collaged using original runway shots by Monica Feudi/GoRunway.com

July 02, 2010

The Gorgeous Gardens of Cragside

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Last weekend we took a drive through Northumberland to Cragside House, Gardens and Estate, a National Trust heritage site. We'd heard it was one of the most beautiful sites in the area if not England, and quickly remedied having been ignorant of it for so long.

We didn't have time or the energy to go inside the house which is like a modern castle (it's Victorian but that's modern in English terms). To get around the estate grounds requires a bit of hiking skill or at least hardy footwear, so I'll save the history of the intriguing Lord Armstrong for when do see inside this house of magic - the industrialist had the first home to be lit by electricity thanks to his inventive and resourceful nature.

This is a cottage on the grounds near where we had lunch (at which point I remembered that the Wolford cropped leggings I was wearing weren't fully opaque - especially when stretched thin ie. over the bum - and I was wearing a short baby doll dress over them and it was windy. And we were hiking up hills. Well, at least I wore the right footwear.)

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The landscape is so lush and there were blossom bushes everywhere. Stunning, but allergy pills are a must next time. I got off easy with a few sneezes.

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I took these at the formal gardens. Its beauty lies in the close-ups; it's not so much a garden that is constructed for grand scenery but rather for its individual elements, like this koi pond complete with lily pads:

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There was a little strip of garden along one wall that had the loveliest variety of flowers...

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...which I will continue in the next post with some photos of the amazing house and its 'largest in Europe' rock garden!

June 12, 2010

Couture Cadbury

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I was on my laptop tonight (big suprise) with the TV on because that's the only way I watch it these days, when suddenly I found my eyes away from my monitor, held firmly by this image on the TV screen. A heavenly apparition - a figure in miles of layers of pale yellow chiffon that was flowing in and out like one of those ethereal deep sea creatures fluttering in the currents to an emotional score - was so jawdroppingly beautiful I wondered what the heck could this be? It's an advert on Comedy Central for Two and a Half Men for goodness sake!

I watched intensely until the end and anticipated the name that was about to appear on the screen, I hadn't a clue as to what it might be, there was no familiar pattern in this ad (ie. you always know a car commercial no matter who it's for). It was Cadbury's Flake. The delicacy of the chiffon layers a metaphor for the airy layers of the chocolate. You'd think I am now about to say 'I can't believe it, what a drag!' and that the bubble had burst, but actually I was thinking 'Respect.' It was most certainly an homage to Alexander McQueen's stunning Kate Moss hologram but this was no cheap rip-off. I watched it about 10 times it was so captivating. Yulia Lobova is the creature inside the heavenly vessel. Watch it with the view expanded. 

I still won't eat a Flake, they are way too sweet and I prefer my chocolate bitter, but the next time I see one I will give it an approving nod.

 

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