The Swelle Life

The Delicious Miss Dahl: Melancholy and Bitchery

The people are divided over The Delicious Miss Dahl. Criticism of its lovely host, Sophie Dahl, her show, and the BBC is being served in a merciless manner as is the British way (which can produce the most hilariously cutting jabs but in this case I'm highly sympathetic to the receiver). Foodies are slamming her methods and her recipes and the BBC's decision to focus on an ex-model amateur cook - she doesn't claim to be a skilled cook and in this week's episode even admits "I won't win any Michelin stars"- while others are accusing her of trying to outdo Nigella. Why? Because they're both hot and apparently that's not allowed to happen twice. Funny though, while she's being accused of using her siren ways the same people are blasting her for taking dainty bites of her cooked food and not going to town on a spoonful of rice pudding. Can you imagine what that would look like and the outrage that would ensue if she did? She's wise to avoid Nigella territory - there's room for only one lady TV chef who makes mouth whoopee to a spoonful of lemon curd.

But the most childish reaction was the sour grapes tantrum from Giles Coren, food critic and presenter of BBC2's The Supersizers Go (never seen it. He looks extremely constipated in the photo I saw so he might want to start adding prunes to his recipes for a good week and not make any plans to leave the house.)

According to the Daily Mail, in addition to calling the show "a sickening sham" among other expletive-laced insults, he spewed on Twitter: "She leans in takes one WEENY bite with her finger cocked in the air, and then you just KNOW she gobs it out off camera." Dude, did you really publicly accuse her of having an eating disorder? Beyond that, she's clearly expressed on the show and in her book how important food, cooking, and in her own words 'eating it' are to her and the ritual family meal times played in her childhood. To boldly imply that she can't manage to swallow even a bite of food she's prepared from her own recipe you've completely and utterly undermined her character as a person. You may think you know food, Mr. Coren, but as a man you are truly without taste. 

And the rest of the brouhaha surrounds the revelation that the house, the kitchen where she cooks, is not hers. What? It's not? But I swore I saw Jamie Cullum's underpants tossed over that Cath Kidston upholstered chair! I always assume it's a set because where I'm from, across the pond, everything is contrived for effect. Okay, we all wanted it to be hers, how lovely would that be? And that's why it looked that way, because it's a set. It's a photographer's house that is rented out for shows and shoots. So those charming little recipe boxes with the handwritten titles aren't hers, nor are those perfectly propped counters, tops of cupboards (come on, dead giveway, who does that) and side tables. That romantic and dreamy garden out back? In our dreams indeed. But to become hostile over this point is just stupid and embarrassing.

And as for the popular assessment that Sophie Dahl is 'smug'? I don't read that at all. I think she's happy.

Here's the link to this week's episode 'Melancholy' which included two nice soup recipes: soul soothing chicken soup and Tom Kha (below):

The Delicious Miss Dahl: Nostalgia (with 1920s Train Carriages)

 

I like her dress.

This week's The Delicious Miss Dahl looks at 'Nostalgia', the kind of food that reminds you of home. Sophie found herself terribly homesick while she lived in New York, despite her initial feel that she had found home. As usual her recipes are straightforward and homey, and after seeing the results I was longing for her past as well!

If you love fish, there's always something there for you. She's doesn't eat red meat but she's fond of the fishies and so am I, I'm going to try out the fish cakes this weekend:

Her fishcakes fell apart. I'm glad I'm not the only one that happens to.

Get the recipe for crab, salmon and dill fishcakes with homemade tartare sauce, roasted red potatoes and wilted spinach here. I'm not a huge fan of tartare sauce (the gherkins pieces look like...well let's not go there, so I prefer a lemon or blush tomato mayonnaise.)

 

The cooked tomatoes with thyme, garlic and onions ready to blended for the tomato soup

Who doesn't love a cheesy double baked potato? (That reminds me of when I was in school and a friend was training for something and was carb loading and ate five baked potatoes before arriving - doubled over with cramps - for a movie night out. I won't go into detail but a note of apology was left in the bathroom at the theatre. Do not eat five baked potatoes in one day.)

Sophie took a ride on a 'slow, sleepy' train to take in the English countryside, her favourite way of seeing it. I'd like to know where such a charming train exists because upholstery, curtains, carpet and tablecloths have certainly not been a part of my locomotive experiences around the UK!

The conductor is pulling the whistle, not making the 'heil' gesture. Look at this train, it's like travelling back in time! 

Okay, I couldn't leave it alone and on a hunch I googled 'orient express' and found that there are two trains, one with 1920s carriages and the other with 1930s art deco interiors, that run in the UK! Awesome! And the whole point is to see the English countryside in majestic style. Check it out here. That sure beats the toilet on wheels I usually travel on.

Orange and raspberry Victoria sponge and golden flapjacks with mango, sour cherries and coconut, for a proper accompaniment to your tea. When I first came to live in England I didn't know what flapjacks were. To me they were another word for pancake. I soon found out they had nothing to do with pancakes. I admit I don't get the allure of the flapjack, I think it's one of those traditional English things that an outsider, even one from a Commonwealth country, can't appreciate having not grown up with it. I'll take a slice of that big fluffy cake instead.

 

Sophie Dahl offers no apologies for decadent desserts. I love that. This toffee, apple and pear crumble is meant to mimic the sensation and taste of a bite of a toffee apple. Those things are evil, but oh so delicious. 

I am now going to order our groceries and I'm including all of the ingredients to make the fish cakes, double baked potatoes and tomato soup...and just maybe I'll do the crumble. 

The Delicious Miss Dahl: Romance

This week's episode of The Delicious Miss Dahl focusses on food for romance, from early courting when you're so nervous and excited that all you can manage is nibblies, to 'we know each other so well we can eat like pigs and then undo our pants and let it all hang out' type of meal. In other words, for married people.

I just have to tell a story about a 'romantic' dinner of mine. About two years ago my husband arranged a date night at home. We even dressed up. After our daughter went to bed he put out wild boar pâté, cheeses and breads, some good red wine and began making a really nice dinner of Coq au Vin. While I was eating the hors d'oevres I noticed my stomach felt a bit funny but I didn't say anything so as not to be a date night downer. Then we had the chicken which was really lovely. After that we were sitting on the couch with our wine and he says 'Uh, I don't feel so good.' I admitted I felt raunchy, too, and thus began an EPIC barf-fest which went into the night and well into the next day. We were both so sick and so weak, our bodies had never betrayed us in such a way but really they were just trying to rid us of the utter evil that had hijacked our tasty dinner. It was the worst. With our family being back in Canada there was no one to call and our daughter, only two years old at the time, had to fend for herself all morning (though I did manage to feed her of course, but no pâté or brie!). 

On that note, let's look at some food!

Scallops with a garlic and chili marinade served with crushed minty peas - get the recipe here

Rhubard and Rosewater Eton Mess - meringue topped with toasted almonds and candied rose petals (which Sophie Dahl was utterly embarrassed to have on hand!)

Cheese souffle buckwheat blinis with scrambled eggs and smoked salmon - get the recipe here

A romantic trip to the cemetery! Actually, this particular one was really beautiful and full of 'love stories'. Sophie pointed out the tombstone of Norman Warne, Beatrix Potter's publisher and secret fiance. Her parents disapproved of him and packed her off to the Lake District and told her that if she still had strong feelings for him upon return then they could think about it. And then he died suddenly while she was still away.

Beef shepherd's pie with champ (mash with spring onions and peas). Get the recipe here, and for the vegetarian version with lentils see here

If you are planning to cook for someone special, I sincerely wish you a more successful dinner than mine!

The Delicious Miss Dahl: 'Selfish'

 

Anyone who's been reading this blog for awhile knows how much I adore Sophie Dahl. I'm convinced that every person who comes into contact with her falls in love immediately and that she has trained herself to think of dilated pupils and goofy smiles as a part of normal human interaction in order to get through her day. She's been contributing to British Vogue and has even made reading about perfume - something I appreciate for its olfactory features and historical significance (and sometimes lovely vintage bottles) but otherwise couldn't care less about much less read about - an experience that was far beyond what any reasonable person would expect from a fashion magazine, even one as well written as Vogue. In the end it's not about the subject matter; it's the art of her story telling and how it leaves you feeling content and breathlessly inspired when her last words are left to settle gently into your brain. Rather like one of her homecooked meals I would imagine. But instead of words, fennel. And instead of brain...you get the picture.

(I know some will ask "Who is she?" In a nutshell, she's English, was discovered by Isabella Blow in the 90s and became a model, is now an author and is the granddaughter of the late Roald Dahl. If you don't know who he is then you're on your own!)

Last night on BBC Two her new cooking show The Delicious Miss Dahl debuted at 8:30 and now mine and the Tuesdays of many others just got a lot more enjoyable. This isn't yet another celebrity jumping on the cooking bandwagon - food and cooking have always played a meaningful role in her life as part of family ritual and simply as a very satisfying indulgence. And the show is beautifully produced, a treat in itself with gorgeous imagery and music, bite-size tales from history and literature courtesy of Miss Dahl herself, and even a little trip into a vintage shop to choose a 1920s art deco cocktail shaker.

The first episode is called Selfish - Sophie likes to cook according to her mood and this is her favourite breakfast, lunch, snack, cocktail, dinner and dessert as she would make it on a day that is all about what she wants, and doesn't have to share (she's honest like that).

Every Wednesday I'll feature some images from the show along with a few of the recipes. To see for yourself you can watch here - and be careful not to fall in love!

Arnold Bennett omelette - prep time: less than 30 minutes; cooking time: 10-30 minutes

Ingredients

100g/3½oz undyed smoked haddock fillet, skin on, pin boned
100ml/3½fl oz milk
knob of butter
2 fresh bay leaves
8-10 black peppercorns
2 tbsp crème fraîche
1 lemon, zest only
55g/2oz parmesan, finely grated
small bunch fresh chives, finely chopped
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
3 large free-range eggs, beaten
knob unsalted butter
2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
small handful fresh watercress
1 tbsp lemon juice

Method

1. Preheat the oven to 200C/400F/Gas 6.
2. Place the haddock fillet into an ovenproof dish, pour over the milk and add the butter, bay leaves and peppercorns.
3. Transfer to the oven and poach for 10-12 minutes, then remove from the oven and set aside to cool slightly.
4. Meanwhile, mix the crème fraîche with the lemon zest, grated parmesan and most of the chives. Season, to taste, with salt and freshly ground black pepper.
5. Heat the butter with half of the oil in a large ovenproof frying pan over a medium heat, and pour in the eggs, stirring slightly as they cook to loosen them from the sides of the pan.
6. Flake the haddock from the skin while the eggs are cooking, taking care to remove any remaining bones.
7. When the eggs are still slightly runny on top but have started to set, spread over the crème fraîche mixture, then scatter over the haddock and transfer the omelette to the oven for 4-5 minutes, or until cooked through and slightly risen. Remove from the oven.
8. To serve, drizzle the remaining oil over the watercress in a small bowl and add the lemon juice, turning to coat the leaves. Slide the omelette onto a serving plate, sprinkle over the remaing chives and arrange the dressed watercress on the side.

Buffalo mozzarella bruschetta with shaved fennel and courgette

Ingredients

½ small fennel bulb, herby tops reserved
1 small yellow courgette
small bunch fresh mint, torn into pieces
½ orange, skin removed, thinly sliced into rounds
½ lemon, juice only
3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 thick slice sourdough bread
1 garlic clove, peeled, cut in half
125g/4½oz buffalo mozzarella

Method

1. Meanwhile, using a vegetable peeler, thinly shave the fennel and courgette into strips. Place into a bowl with the mint and half of the fennel tops.
2. Add the orange slices and lemon juice and stir to combine.
3. Drizzle in one tablespoon of the olive oil and season, to taste, with salt and freshly ground black pepper.
4. Heat a griddle pan over a high heat until smoking hot.
5. Toast the bread well on both sides for 2-3 minutes, or until scorched with griddle pan marks. Remove from the pan and place on a plate.
6. Rub the chargrilled sourdough bread with the cut side of the garlic and drizzle over another tablespoon of olive oil.
7. Tear the mozzarella in half and place onto the toasted bread.
8. Pile the fennel and courgette salad on top, and drizzle over the remaining olive oil. Scatter over the reserved fennel tops.
Tip: Serve with a glass of chilled Mersault or White Burgundy wine.

Sophie goes to an antique shop and comes to a photo of a 'ballsy old broad,the sort of woman with a deep, throaty laugh like Ava Gardner or Katherine Hepburn." She goes on to quote Hepburn:

"The average Hollywood actress' ambition is to be admired by an American, courted by an Italian, married to an Englishman and have a French boyfriend." 

As an ode to the screen sirens she chooses the aforementioned 1920s art deco cocktail shaker and takes it home to make a dirty martini. You can find the recipe for 'delicious, olivey rocket fuel' here.

While making it she tells another story about 1920s writer Dorothy Parker:

"She had a rule about martinis: 'I love to drink martinis, two at the very most, with three I'm under the table, with four I'm under the host.' Be very careful unless you know your host well."

Oooh, the rich chocolate pots with brandy-soaked cherries. See the recipe here. Delicious indeed.

Miss Dahl's Unnatural Acts and Autumn Breakfasts

It's safe to say you don't expect a story about a pet rabbit buggering a guinea pig to death to figure in the introduction of your new cookbook, but this is no ordinary cookbook - it's Sophie Dahl's. While that particular item might sound like a most odd inclusion, it actually does fit. That pet rabbit was named 'Pancake' and the poor guinea pig whose heart exploded from the interspecies violation was called 'Maple Syrup.' (Isn't maple syrup supposed to go on top of the pancake? Maybe that was the problem.) The point is, food, as is storytelling, has always been a significant facet of Sophie Dahl's life, from her own fondness for it from childhood to her cherished family rituals.

(To be honest, I'm not even sure whether that recollection was real, from one of her dreams, or if Pancake and Maple Syrup were little figurines that Miss Dahl imagined a story around that would make her grandfather Raold proud, but it doesn't matter.)

I mentioned Miss Dahl's Voluptuous Delights the other day in a post but now that I have it and can see how wonderful it is I feel compelled to say so. The pages even feel beautiful - the paper stock is thick and lightly textured and the photographs, as you can see here, are as tantalising as cinnamon roast peaches with vanilla yogurt (serves 2 greedy people). The recipes aren't peripheral to the aesthetics of the book - they are creative yet homey and simple and are things you will actually want to make, and eat.

Try not to consume it all in one sitting.

 

Guess Who is This English Rose?

Just a little fun for a Monday. Who did this bespectacled little girl from London grow up to be? For the answer, see here