The Swelle Life

Tim Walker's Marvellous Tribute to Roald Dahl

Charlie and the Chocolate Factory, Actor Jamie Campbell  and Karen Elson

Continuing on with British Vogue's Fantastic Fashion Fantasy issue, Tim Walker shot an editorial tribute to the "marvellous, mischievous, magical world" of Roald Dahl, accompanied by a written piece by his great-granddaughter, model and author, Sophie Dahl. It featured Tim Burton and Helena Bonham Carter, but my favourites of this vast spread happened to not include them! What I love most about Tim Walker's photos is how he incorporates florals, especially the gorgeous flower fields he chooses so often as backdrops. I must find out where they are and run through them! (Photographed from the pages, apologies for the compromised quality):

 Charlie and the Chocolate Factory, Musician Lightspeed Champion


Karen Elson in Gareth Pugh's stylish monochrome transmission


Never smile at a crocodile...Karen Elson


Charlie and the Chocolate Factory, Georgia Jagger


Charlie and the Chocolate Factory, actor Jamie Bell and the Oompa-Loompa


James and the Giant Peach, Karen Elson and Gareth Pugh's Grasshopper


Bellville Sassoon, Sophie Drake as Miss Honey


Rhyme Stew, Karen Elson and Peter Jensen


The BFG, Sophie Drake and Alice Gibb


Revolting Rhymes, Karen Elson

Unbelievable Fashion

Left: Alexander McQueen, spring 2005
Right: 'Wood table skirt', Hussein Chalayan, A/W 2000

Christmas came early courtesy of British Vogue: the wrapping is a tri-fold cover featuring Kate Moss in clouds of Dior silk tulle (though it's the dress I fancy much more than the model) and the treats are Fantastic Fashion Fantasy-themed editorial, with such delights as Tim Walker's fields of flowers tribute to Roald Dahl; Karl Lagerfeld's painted depiction of a Secret Ball - a mysterious, exclusive event hosted by an anonymous Russian woman for her billionaire husband; winter wonderlands created using the pages of books and decorated with jewels in Spellbound; an outdoorsy, technicolour editorial shot by Patrick Demarchelier; and to begin, Unbelievable Fashion - "a vivid and memorable demonstration that fashion can be about so many things other than what to wear", shot by Nick Knight (photographed from the pages by moi, apologies for any comprised quality):

  
John Galliano silk-gazar origami, spring 2007 Dior haute couture collection

Left: Alexander McQueen, spring 2005 collection
Right: Yohji Yamamoto, A/W 2000

Both, Dior couture, spring 2003

Gareth Pugh, A/W 2006

Dior couture, spring 2003


Left: Comme des Garcons A/W 2008
Right: Viktor & Rolf, A/W 2003


Thierry Mugler's paper concertina dress, spring 1991


Hussein Chayalan's remote-control aeroplane dress, created in 1999


Left: Hussein Chalayan, spring 2000
Right: Viktor & Rolf, spring 2006

Colour was in Vogue in the 1940s

1944 Vogue

You feel a bit daft saying "No! Colour photos that early?", especially when you've had a fairly thorough education in art history. But that's what I thought when I saw these awe-inspiring, 1940s fashion photographs from Vogue, discovered during a browsing by Susie Bubble at Elegance is Refusal's Flickr site, which is lush with beautiful vintage scans.

It would have been nice if my university learnings had endured at least until my student loans were paid off. But anyway, I've looked it up and while the history of colour in photography is a bit complicated, colour photographs have been around since the 1850s (starting with James Clerk Maxwell's work with primary colour filters, and the experimentation continued). But it wasn't until 1935 that colour photo-taking became a more common thing, when Kodak started to sell Kodachrome transparency film, followed by the introduction of color-print films and Ektachrome films in the 1940s. And no doubt there's a lot more to what went into creating these Vogue photographs than that skeletal history, but the point is, we are just so rarely treated to these delights - if ever - that they leave us truly stunned at what was possible so long ago. It's incredible that some of these photos appear completely devoid of that anachronistic look and mood that we associate with the 30s and 40s:

1948 Vogue

1941 Vogue


1944 Vogue


1949 Vogue

And this, from 1939 - no shadows, so awash with light:


1939 Vogue

Sweet Paul Styles Us a Blissful Life

Tailgating. Styling by Paul Lowe. Photography by Jim Hensley

Have you ever tried to photograph food? Try it, look at the photo, then ask yourself "Is this something I would eat?" I guarantee your response will be "Only if I were starving." Like anything done expertly, Paul Lowe aka Sweet Paul makes it all look so easy. A Norwegian who came to New York for love in 2006, Paul has been styling food, props and interiors ever since a photographer friend recognised his talents while he was still arranging flowers in his shop 17 years ago. It didn't take him long to prove he has the keen eye, instincts, style and ingenuity essential for creating scenes that make beautiful photographs, and he's been in demand ever since.

Sweet Paul is not just a nickname but also a stunning blog where he shares his work and his life with a growing global fanbase who check in religiously for their daily dose of Paul. It is serene, highly inspirational, gorgeous and addictive (visit when you have time to browse, and you'll see what I mean when you find yourself 10 pages deep.) And it's interactive - Paul will seek the opinion of his readers when facing a styling conundrum (eg. which one do we like better?), and we are only too happy to put in our two cents. Rewards for loyalty now include Recipe Monday which has featured original concoctions such as Fallen Chocolate Cake, Accidental Pie and his creamy risotto (Paul is often asked to create the recipes for the food shoots).

As for his interiors, they are likely to illicit an 'I wish I lived in this' response, regardless of your style preferences. Who doesn't want to find themselves in surroundings that are warm, vibrant, tranquil, and inspired? And as a special treat Paul shares his brilliant DIY home styling ideas, such as using old books to paper your walls and create the loveliest photo holder:

Both for Country Living. Styling by Paul Lowe. Photography by Ellen Silverman

(Is it just me or do the phonetics of 'Sweet Paul' sound especially pleasing? Just whisper it to yourself 's-w-e-e-t-p-a-u-l'...To me it's the phonoaesthetic equivalent of 'cellar door'. Quite befitting of the blog, isn't it?)

Paul Lowe shared with me a bit more about himself and what drives him (beyond taxis):

Was it a smooth transition going from arranging flowers to styling food and interiors?

It kind of was. It is all about colors, textures, and having good taste in your work.

Has living in New York changed you and the way you style?

Oh yes. I think my work has gotten better and better. There is so much inspiration here, it's amazing. The competition is also very high so you have to be on your toes all the time. The choice for props is also amazing, you can get whatever you want. Love it!

You say that fashion is your greatest inspiration - does it translate directly in your work?

It does. I have a book that I stick in pictures I rip out of fashion magazines. Colours, textures, combinations - it all inspires me. My black fig story was inspired by the all-black Viktor & Rolf Fall collection from 2001. 

Black Fig.Styling:Paul Lowe. Photo:Colin Cooke    Viktor & Rolf, Fall 2001 RTW

Do you ever go to fashion shows?

I've been to some small ones, but I would love to be in the front row of Marc Jacobs, Viktor & Rolf, Dior, Lanvin, etc.

Have you ever had a food that was a naughty model and didn't want to behave?

It's all about the recipe, sometimes it just does not work. I made some crème brûlées the other day, after two hours they were still runny. 

You have thousands of fans around the world who follow your work and your personal life through your blog - how does that make you feel?

Oh, Wow. Ehhhhh...Now I feel like Brad Pitt. He he. I think it's amazing that I have so many readers (Ed note: monthly page views currently total 32,000.)  And they are so great, they leave lots of comments and send the best emails. I love them all. I think it's great that I can inspire people.

Does your home interior reflect the warm and vibrant aesthetic you bring to your work?

Ehhh no! We live in a small apartment here in NYC. It's full of stuff - props and books. I did have a shoot here a while ago, I had to tidy up for three days beforehand, so it's a mess. But it looks okay once it's tidy. I'm not the most organised person in the world.

Now that's a sure sign of creativity! If you'd like to know more about what happens on Paul's shoots and advice he offers to aspiring stylists, there's a great article at Cookbook Catchall.

Just one warning before you go exploring: While writing this article - quite late into the night and enjoying the photos from Paul's stories - I finished off stirfry leftovers, then had a yogurt, and I was still searching the refrigerator. You may not want to visit Sweet Paul when you are hungry and have no food around - the suffering would just be too terrible!

Takk skal du ha, Paul.

Black Fig. Styling by Paul Lowe. Photographed by Colin Cooke

Styling by Paul Lowe. Photography by Colin Cooke

For MORE magazine. Styling by Paul Lowe. Photography by Kana Okada

Styling by Paul Lowe. Photography by Steve Giralt

 

Styling by Paul Lowe. Photography by Steve Giralt

 

For The Comfort Table. Styling by Paul Lowe. Photography by Miki Duisterhof

Styling by Paul Lowe. Photography by Studio Dreyer Hensley

 

 

Tailgating. Styling by Paul Lowe. Photography by Jim Hensley

 

For ELLE Interior. Styling by Paul Lowe. Photography by Studio Dreyer Hensley

Styling by Paul Lowe. Photography by Colin Cooke

Styling by Paul Lowe. Photography by Colin Cooke

Styling by Paul Lowe. Photography by Colin Cooke

 

Styling by Paul Lowe. Photography by Colin Cooke. Get the recipe for Nested Eggs
 

Styling by Paul Lowe. Photography by Colin Cooke

Styling by Paul Lowe. Photography by Studio Dreyer Hensley

Styling by Paul Lowe. Photography by Gemma Comas

Styling by Paul Lowe. Photography by Frances Janisch

Styling by Paul Lowe. Photography by Frances Janisch
 

Styling by Paul Lowe. Photography by Ellen Silverman

From article: Raspberry jars and sofa with doily curtain photographed by Frances Janisch

The Sartorialist Poses for GAP

If you're Stateside and have picked up a fashion magazine in the past few months, you've probably already seen the GAP advert starring the blogosphere's most famous style blogger. Scott Schuman, better known as The Sartorialist, found himself on the other side of the lens as the model for the retailer's fall campaign.

His blog of the same name is addictive daily 'scanning' - there are a few concise comments, if any, as his captivating street style photographs speak for themselves. Mr. Schuman's subjects are anyone whose look he finds inspiring as he strolls the streets of New York, Paris, Milan, London, or anywhere he happens to be. Consider yourself honoured if he stops you one day and asks to take your picture!

Audrey Tautou Gets the Ellen von Unwerth Treatment

These photos of Audrey Tautou shot by Ellen von Unwerth are making the rounds on the blogosphere right now, but they seem to be a few years old - though I can't find the date to confirm, or where they were originally published. Anyway, according to the comments, many people don't like how Audrey looks - some think von Unwerth has made the natural beauty look 'cheap', even 'ugly', and that her 'snapshot' treatment doesn't work here. The German photographer is known for her highly erotic photos, so it would appear she applied significant restraint with the doe-eyed actress whom we all seem to want to believe is as sweet and innocent as she looks. With the exception of the outfit in the last photo which is just hideous, I can't see the 'cheap', and certainly not the 'ugly'. You?

 

Source

A Narcissistic Token of Gratitude

A week can't go by without a tidbit of news about our favourite mad genius, Karl Lagerfeld.

After showing the Chanel Cruise 2009 collection at the legendary Art Deco Raleigh Hotel in Miami, he thanked the staff for their hospitality with signed self-portraits from the show (he is discreetly holding a self-clicker in gloved hand). Some of the photos featured a backdrop of Lagerfeld's synchronised swimmers who did the sideways dive into the pool - all wearing Chanel swimcaps of course - spelling out the brand with their suits before forming the double-C for the grand finale. What a show!

We're able to see the photos thanks to Jauretsi from StarworksNY.com who had the good fortune to see them in person and snapped them to share. Thanks, J!

I joke about the narcissism, they are fabulous photos. And what else would we expect from Kaiser Karl?

(But how hot must he have been with his uniform of earlobe grazing collar, jacket and tie, and signature racing gloves?? Oh, the poor soul who had to burn wash his underpants.)

Old Men Dress Cool and That Includes David Hockney

 

Britain's greatest living artist, David Hockney, made 10 magazine's Old Men Dress Cool article written by Paul Flynn (is this the same fellow who writes View from My Sofa for Grazia?). Cited alongside David Lynch and George Clooney, Hockney is a far less obvious yet worthy choice. I think everything he does is cool and that includes how he's put himself together over the decades.

Speaking of, last year Hockney was listed in GQ's 50 Most Stylish Men from the Past 50 Years:

The British artist David Hockney—master of one-point perspective and portraiture, the Polaroid collage and the California swimming pool—has spent a lifetime dressing more for comfort than for effect, with a mind more for color than for trend. “His fashion sense is gemütlich,” says the writer Lawrence Weschler (Ed. note: he means comfortable or relaxed). On occasion, Hockney, now 70, has appeared in a gray flannel Savile Row suit. But more frequently, he’s made the rounds in workman’s pants that reflect his painterly ethics (“He’s one of the hardest-working artists I know,” says Weschler). He has also favored brashly striped rugby jerseys and ties, aviator or Coke-bottle specs, and suspenders as thick as a firefighter’s. What the curator Henry Geldzahler called the artist’s “primitive craving for brightness” manifests itself right down to Hockney’s toes. “He wears different-color socks,” says Weschler. “It’s such a fantastic innovation. Why on earth do we wear same-color socks? The amount of time we spend matching them, it’s absurd!”

Photo: King Collection/Retna LTD

And all this time I've been laughing at and criticising one of my brothers for what I now recognise is a brilliant attempt to introduce 'innovation' into the routine of getting dressed. Pairing a red dot-patterned black dress sock with a knee high grey tube sock is indeed pure genious.

I freaking adore David Hockney, when I look at his paintings I feel so happy (maybe something to do with his rare, 'seeing music' form of synaesthesia, which said brother happens to also have, as well as Yours Truly. More on that in an upcoming post):

A Bigger Splash, 1967

 
Man taking a shower in Beverly Hills, 1964

 
Mr. and Mrs. Clark and Percy, 1970

Highlights of Hyères

The Festival International de Mode et de Photographie à Hyères has now wrapped up its public program (including fashion shows and awards ceremony) after what appears to have been a mind-blowing event. If you're not familiar, it was established in Hyères (in the south of France) 22 years ago to unveil 10 young fashion designers and 10 young photographers from all over the world, under the patronage of an international jury. I'm going to look into the new talent when I get the time to give it my full attention and hopefully I'll see a more varied approach than the draped black fabric and stark (though beautiful) images caught in a few quick glances.

One of the best parts of the festival is the exhibition which showcases a selection of the world's most fascinating photographers and their works. The Sartorialist was one, who as you may know is the man behind the #1 most influential fashion blog of the same name, snapping street fashion as he finds it. The results are often times stunning portraits of his random subjects.  I've just checked his blog and naturally it features some shots taken within the last few days in Hyères (see below). Simply gorgeous, gives you even more reason to wish you'd been. No need to fret, however! The exhibition runs until June 1, so if you're going to be in France between now and then you'd be mad not to go, and it's free.

 

For me, the exhibition draw would be the works of Melvin Sokolsky, photographer for Harper's Bazaar in the 1960s who created fashion classics with his Bubble and Flying series. One look and you can see why he's known for his portrayal of a light and playful world of enchantment, as illustrated in the first photo shown above, from the Chairs series, 1963. I don't mean to ruin what was almost a proper post, but I can't help but be reminded of Lily Tomlin's Sesame Street guest character Edith Anne who sat in that enormous rocking chair, fiddling with her feet while describing in that snot-nosed kid voice a disgusting sandwich made of peanut butter, salami, raisins, pickles, mustard, tuna... you get the point. Oh, what a beautiful post this could have been.

To the rescue, more of the astounding Melvin Sokolsky (photos from Style Bubble, photographed on exhibit in Hyères):

Cover of Donna magazine, 1964 (What do we have now? Airbrushed and Photoshopped actresses. Sigh.)

Bubble series. On The Seine, Paris with Simone d'Aillencourt, 1963

Simone d'Aillencourt on a labryinth, 1961