This list is interchangeable, really! And could easily have been a Top 25. Selections from these shows can be seen in the 'Spring 09 Wish List' category in the right sidebar
Francoise Hardy's Voila:
Francoise Hardy's Mon amie la rose, 1965: Carla Bruni's Tout le monde, from Quelqu'un m'a dit: Love 1920s Paris? For you, Vanessa Paradis' 'L'Incendie: Julie Delphy's Waltz for a Night from Before Sunset:
Cathryn Horan of The New York Times posted this rare gem of a photo on her blog. Does that coy grin look familiar? How about the knowing pose? The inherent confidence? No? Imagine the hand is gloved in cut-out leather, the collar is stiffer and higher and the hair is white and tied back. You got it, this tiny fashion genius in the making is Karl Lagerfeld - IN LEDERHOSEN! You know, I did wonder whether this 'costume' is something only seen at Oktoberfest, and whether Germans actually really wear it (like Mounties in Canada - they don't work in that getup, you know!). Turns out, they do! Or, at least they did.
I am dying over the fact that he's wearing a white dress shirt and tie under the braces of the lederhosen. As a baby he probably scribbled a collar and tie on his onesies and requested Diet Coke in his bottle.
Via Catwalk Queen
Victoria Beckham, it's been a wild ride through your style evolution. Post-Spice Girls, we endured years of your WAG-tastic highlighted extensions that looked as if they would strangle you and Becks while asleep (what a nightmare they must have been when not sleeping, if you know what I mean). Then, things began to improve (they had to, didn't they?) when you caught up to the rest of the world, and in a bid to gain credibility with fashion's heavy hitters you cut those nasty rat tails loose and gave us "The Pob." We expressed our appreciation of the change by copying the cut - everyone from actresses to actresses who were once porn stars to supermarket check-out clerks looked like you. Then, a blip - you fell victim to your new Californian surroundings and gave in to the peroxide, and you got blonder and blonder. The Pob grew out a bit and got a thorough teasing at the crown. Alas, before long you tired of the brassy roots and returned to something closer to your natural shade, averting disaster (had you grown it out, with those concrete half-melons, you may have been recruited as the newest cast-member of The Girls Next Door.)
What came next? Quelle surprise! You knew you had to step it up for the front row of pal Marc Jacobs' show at New York fashion week, so you rocked up, hand in hand with Jennifer Lopez, your BFF (Best Faux Friend) and did what a good Faux Friend would - you showed up the new mum with your bold new look and made headlines around the world. We didn't know you had it in you, Victoria, it takes mad confidence and real fashion savvy to channel Mia Farrow a la Rosemary's Baby (or Halle Berry, if that reference works better for you). And so, this became the cut that would separate the trend-followers from the seriously daring: Would mere mortals be brave enough to cut it all off and commit to the Posh Pixie?
One woman was. Her name is Giovanna, commonly known as Jo to her old school friends, and Gio to the new wave. She saw, she wanted, and she conquered. She announced her intentions on Facebook with nervous excitement, and a small helping of self-doubt - the kind that intimates something big is about to happen and risks will be taken. But deep down, she knew she had it in her, and SHE WENT FOR IT. Now, that's a real woman. Watch out, Posh. You've got competition.
Grazia and French Connection
held a special holiday shopping event at locations throughout the UK
last night, and I attended the one in Newcastle. After giving my name
at the door (it was a reserved place event) I was greeted by a waiter
with a tray of red wine. Thank you, I will certainly have one of those, please. It's worth the purple lips and teeth. The guests were treated to goodies such as Origins hand massages and make-up applications.
And, oh yes - the shopping! It was a bit tough browsing the racks while
trying not to spill red wine on all the cute dresses, but I wasn't
complaining.
I was there with three friends, including my
power-shopper-yet-sensible mate Sophie, my kindred spirit in fashion
(well, kindred except for the sensible part). It was a great girlie
night, which admittedly got even better when I found the table
downstairs filled with more red wine and some white, and these new
Cobra flavoured beer drinks - the blood orange was quite nice! I'm not
much of a drinker, it's just nice to be treated to a tipple whilst
shopping with the girls! We each left with a dress we loved at 20% off (hers a gorgeous silk slip dress with ruffle shoulders and mine a cute and comfy grey hand knit number with short sleeves).
One of the sales assistants by the name of Morgan caught my eye, she was tall and stunning in her black, strapless French Connection prom dress, red lips and platinum bob, and rocking some seriously killer heels. I don't know how she was able to stand all night in those skyscrapers, but if she was in any pain she hid it well. She pulled off a distinctly 80s vibe - the good part of the 80s (yes, there was good, I can't claim it as part of my personal history, however) - bold, polished and a force to be reckoned with.
Morgan, please share - I forgot to ask you at the time (the wine) - where did you find those wicked shoes?
I heard from Morgan, they're Kurt Geiger - and they were a birthday gift from her friends! Now those are good friends!
The difference between London and Newcastle can be summed up like this: You would never see a Geordie bloke wearing a full-length, faux fur coat. In fact, you rarely see a Geordie bloke wearing a coat at all. A London lad, however, just might have a big fuzzy stashed in his wardrobe, ready to fetch on a whim and model along with a fedora, old-school video camera and maybe even a petrified piranha watching from atop a shelf in front of a lighted map-of-the-world mural. The point is, you never know what you might encounter in the city with the whitest mayor the world has ever seen.
Pimm's and Sympathy
As you may have guessed, I just returned from London, a whirlwind trip that lasted only 29 hours and was all about the girls enjoying what one of the world's greatest cities has to offer. I met up with the lovely Bridget of Trends Inc who was in town for the week, on her way to Rome (lucky her), and we tried in vain to find our favourite Danish fashion shop, Noa Noa, at Sloane Square. (It's gone, and it was just a section at Peter Jones anyway, little did we know. My bad). So we consoled ourselves with some tasty tapas at Las Iguanas. And oh yes, there were a few Pimm's cocktails involved in our easement as well. Bridget unfortunately had to take off just as my old childhood friend Julie, who moved to London from Canada this summer, came to meet us. It was time to do it all over. Another tapas platter and Pimm's, please. I regret nothing.
Next was Tate Modern for the Rothko Exhibition. Rothko's pictures are a very personal thing for me, as they are for anyone who fully appreciates and understands his work, but this particular show was especially intimate - the revealing 'pictures' were from the last years of Rothko's life, before he killed himself. The massive canvasses and mounted papers spread over several rooms created a palpable feeling of despair or malicious fury, depending what room you were in (the latter was felt in the room with the Seagream's murals, there are a two particular murals I cannot look at for this reason). His Black on Grey series was his final series, and a telling one. Despite the black, heavy cloud looming, there's a certain comfort, a calm, that resonates from those soft-edged rectangles. For me, I think it's the purity of his expression, those pictures reveal how utterly consumed he was with what must have been unbearable despair and sometimes, it seems, explosive anger. I find great comfort in that sharing of our humanness, pure and raw. What is more exhilarating than that? ...Oh, and I loved how they made us exit through a particular door which dumped us out into the makeshift Rothko giftshop. You know how I feel about that!
Thug Wife
On the walk back from Tate Modern we passed some beautifully lit trees along the Thames, and a graffitied skateboard area where there was a group of very young and very loud teen girls, I'm guessing from Croydon as the accent is quite distinct, taking pictures of themselves. Speaking of graffiti and Croydon, I thought of Goldie Locks and tried to do an attitude shot, and wound up looking like a one-legged Silent Bob:
Tea and Liberty
Back
at Julie's flat in Putney, a light and spacious place with a nice,
homey feel that is due to her sweet personal touches, we crossed paths
with her advertising copywriter neighbour, the one with the fantastic
coat collection (first, above). I think he was a bit shy about being
identified so we'll just call him 'Vance'. Or Niles Crane. We (or
rather, I) pretty much badgered him into showing us a jacket he bought
from Liberty, and that's how the fashion show began. He acted shy but
he wanted to share. It's not possible to keep a treasure from Liberty
to yourself and he certainly succumbed. Hell, he mentioned it in the
first place. Speaking of Liberty, we found our way there yesterday after Julie's excellent orientation skills
lead us to Noa Noa, hidden to the unacquainted, at St. Christopher's
Place, where I picked up two mesh underskirts in slate blue and palepink, brilliant for wearing under dresses that might do with a little enhancement or a big of extra length.
As for Liberty, time was limited as I had to get on the road back to
Newcastle soon, but we had time for a quick browse of a tiny fraction
of the jawdropping goods on display in the massive Tudor Revival
building, before stopping in the tea shop for a proper girls afternoon
tea - with scones, of course. The champagne high tea would have been a
fantastic treat, but that's for another day when time is of no
consequence. And neither is money. I look forward to that day. When it's coming?
The Sick Train (Read this only if you find toilet humour funny, and aren't eating)
Once arriving back in Newcastle, I got on the metro to go home. A Saturday night on the train is always interesting,
and this was no different. Having only eaten a banana since our tea, I
grabbed a cheeseburger and fries from a burger chain I dare not
mention, and one that I had to be desperate to patronise (nothing else
was open and I wasn't lugging my bags anywhere at that point). I
stuffed the "food" into my bag and my train arrived within minutes. I
noticed people were bypassing one of the entrances and stupid me
thinks, "oh, I'll go through there, it's not crowded", only to step on and see
a MASSIVE pile of puke to my right (ALL piles of puke around here are
massive. It's true. I've seen far too many). I sit as far away as
possible with my back to the revolting spectacle and exchange grimaces
with the two already sitting in the area. The woman said "This is what I get for going through South Shields."
Ouch. I haven't been to South Shields and this doesn't encourage me to
visit. After the two get off the train, I'm alone, reading my Grazia.
There's no one around me, and I forget what's behind me (it didn't
smell, at least where I was sitting). So I take out the cheeseburger and dig in. A few stops later a guy gets on, sees "it", does the "AUGH!", stops short, and sits near me.
I'm suddenly aware that I'm eating a greasy cheeseburger on public
transportation in the vicinity of a giant puddle of sick. I slowly
lower my hand beside my bag to hide it and chew the remaining bits in
my mouth discreetly. I was thoroughly ashamed, and still am.
But that's not it. Three kids get on, two girls and a boy who
could not have been older than 14 years old, and one of the girls was
green. She's looking at the floor as if in a hazy, agonised state. She
moves forward awkwardly and walks to where a boy is sitting several feet away,
passing the offending sight which must have seemed a late foreshadowing
of what was to come, sat down and let fly all over that poor kid (who
I'm assuming she knew. Either way, this was not his night.) Despite my
maternal instincts niggling at me to lecture the three of them about
under-age drinking (I still would never), I felt sorry for the other girl who seemed sober
and instead of laughing, or leaving, was truly sympathetic to her
friend. So I gave her the only tissues I had in my bag - a package of
bright, fairy-printed tissues that my mother-in-law gave my daughter.
She went over to help the girl clean up (good luck), and when I got up to exit the
train at my stop, I saw the new addition: Another massive pile of puke,
this one decorated with fairies and daisies.
How I would have loved see the reactions to that. If I wasn't already about to launch myself.
The last time I took the metro home after arriving back from London,
there was a drunk kid of about 18, walking up and down the carriage
singing Show Me the Way to Amarillo at the top of his lungs, and quite well, actually, while carrying around a very long broomstick.
Aw, it's good to be home.
British model Erin O'Connor generously donated more than 30 items from her covetable high-end clothing and accessories collection for auction at Christie's, and it seems some lucky bidders went home with a deal of the century.
The auction took place yesterday at Christie's South Kensington auction house in London to raise money for young fashion talent, and a browse through the results on their website shows it was indeed worth showing up for. Not to suggest the model was thought to be simply ridding her cupboard of designer cast-offs - a preview of the lot revealed Rouland Mouret's famed Galaxy dress in blue, and the list of labels read like a post-fashion week collections wish list, never mind gifts of Chanel from Karl Lagerfeld - the lucky bit was that several of the stunning items went for the price of a pair of trendy jeans. A red silk Diane von Furstenberg cocktail dress sold at £138 and an Alexander McQueen dress and jacket were a steal at £250 (okay, two pairs of jeans). And there were enough Chanel and Louis Vuitton bags at (comparatively) good prices to provide thrills to some young ladies looking to start their collection.
Despite the deals, most of the items sold for at least the low-end of the estimates (which were set on the conservative side). But any chance of merely borderline success was happily quashed when the appreciation of an embroidered Ralph Lauren 'Graydon' jacket created a bidding war that resulted in a selling price almost three times the high estimate, at £1375. And shockingly, O'Connor parted with a watermelon-hued Chanel 2.55 (is she mad??), which not shockingly, fetched three times the high estimate, selling for £1500.
So, some lucky fashionistas went home with great new additions to their wardrobes and by doing so, have supported the British Fashion Council - thus helping Britain to continue to churn out more great design talent (and maybe get the Council a Web site).
Speaking of Loulou de la Falaise (see previous post), she happens to live in a fabulous Paris apartment overlooking the city (as we would expect from the influential designer/muse) - one that most of us might even wear fur for if it meant waking up it in every morning. From the looks of things, I don't think she'll be nicking decor items from her new workplace, the Home Shopping Network:
"I like cotton, velvet and handmade fabrics such as kilims and blankets from the Atlas mountains."
"My favourite materials are painted or gilded wood, lacquered objects, decorative paintwork and ceramics with a cracked surface.
I like blends of styles and things that have nothing to do with each other. I like surprises, things that clash, are unexpected, break unity, disrupt monotony - modern paintings with Louis XV furniture, for example. Mixtures of different periods are very interesting. For example, Cezanne's Still Life with Apples and a Pot of Primroses juxtoposes nicely against my Hannah Montana guitar-style lamp from HSN." (Okay, I'm being a goof, she obviously didn't say that last thing.)
A collection of bracelets and bangles so fabulous they serve as decor. This photo was taken before she introduced her two-tone black and purple bangle on HSN, otherwise I'm sure it would be here.
"I have a strong attraction to combinations of red. It is a colour that recurs constantly in my designs and my apartment. My shop is adorned with red furniture and a red carpet."
Quotes extracted by Claire Coleman from
Fashion Designers At Home by Marie Bariller
Photos from MailOnline
Yesterday, my google alert pointed me to an article on FT.com, (London's Financial Times) written by one of the UK's most illustrious fashion icons Daphne Guinness, which I was going to introduce and link to. Which is what I'm doing right now. Except that Susie Bubble covered it already - Ms. Guinness had mentioned her blog StyleBubble
as an example of the significant influence blogs are exerting on the
fashion industry - and she summed up the article so well I'm going to
use what she said:
So, if that interests you, here's a good, quick read from the woman who owns possibly the most covetable fashion collection on the planet (including many jaw-dropping pieces of haute couture). More importantly, she has the taste, culture and knowledge to back it up, which makes it more a collection of art and therefore separates it - worlds apart - from the empty and obscene displays of football salary wealth more commonly seen these days.
Oh right, the article: Karl Lagerfeld and Grand Theft Auto
Photo is Daphne Guinness in the March 2008 British Vogue. To read more about this fascinating fashion stylist and producer (yes, I like her) read Times Online's My Life in Fashion: Daphne Guinness and her obsession with armour
Name: Connie AKA "Daddy's Girl"
Spotted for: Ability to wear multiple trends at once - effortlessly - for an everyday look that's both casual and chic (no easy feat!)
And just how did she do that? Connie, who works in accessories (of course), mixed new trends with enduring ones. The cobalt summer scarf over a bright yellow tank gets personalised with a beaded dragonfly broach. The dark blue tried-and-true skinny jeans and gold flats pull it all together. I LOVE gold flats, there is nothing they can't do. An absolute wardrobe must-have.
The summer scarf is huge right now and Connie keeps the summer in the look with her hot colour choices. The cobalt and yellow are a bright and bold contrast, perfect for the season and a more confident alternative to the safe and common black over white tee.
And as always, the perfect accessory is a big, happy smile. We're with you on that, Connie.
Since the Cookie Monster arrived on the scene, few can say they've rocked the blue hair so fabulously. And of those, even fewer are correct in their assessment. And then there's Jacqui. On a lesser human being, the wig, Hawaiian lei, and foil tiara would look cheap. On Jacqui, it's high fashion.
There is no move she won't - or can't - bust on the dance floor. The robot, the running man, the worm. She'll walk like an Egyptian and keep up with the Grease soundtrack medley without missing a beat, or lyric. Her innate ability to engage others on the dance floor leaves gay men feeling confused, women in awe, and straight men just a little gay. At any given time there's a 1/4 drunk rum and Coke left on the table, for she must dance. And nothing, and no one, can stop her. And who would want to? We salute you, Jacqui. Happy 37th.
A couple of weeks ago I was in Toronto for a good friend's 'non-stagette' girls' night out before her wedding, and at one point we stopped into Rasputin Vodka Bar (where I had my first Lemon Drop. Yes, seriously. My first. Courtesy of the bar's fabulous owner who was wearing a skin-tight PVC floral-print wrap dress. Yes, seriously).
Out of the corner of my eye I noticed the loveliest bereted silhouette 'floating' through the crowd (or so it appeared). She had the most perfect posture and was holding her clutch at her waist with both hands, a coy little smile on her face for no one in particular. She was channeling the quintessential French Girl. Amazing! Who looks like that these days?
As she moved toward the door I thought 'Don't go! I must get a photo of you but I don't want you to think I'm weird, I've been intoxicated by Lemon Drops!' Luckily she came back and so I approached, and she happily obliged - see her above (in case you hadn't yet pieced that together).
Her name is Maha and she was kind enough to share a few things about herself:
What was the inspiration behind your outfit?
It all started with the beret, really. There's nothing better than a damn smart hat. (Yes! I know!!)
Where did you find these fabulous pieces?
The beret is vintage from Boutique Maskarad in Montreal (of course), the belt is Club Monaco, and the dress is a thrift shop find.
What do you do for a living?
I'm a Middle-Eastern Dance artist - full time performer and instructor. (Explains the perfect posture!) Visit her website
What did you have for breakfast this morning?
Cereal with blueberries. (The breakfast of fashion champions)
I don't know if you can see in the photo (a bar at night can be a bit tough for getting detail), but Maha's beret is a small one and likely pinned in place to one side. What a great look with her long, dark hair and belted dress, non? As fabulous as the outfit is, the way she carried it is what sold it. Magnifique!
Well, the day finally came for Karen to debut her coveted DvF Orioti maxi dress and it did not disappoint. The layered front even fans out like a butterfly's wings - how fun is that? (Did you indulge in it Karen - did you dance around your house, twirling about when no one was looking?)
To complete the look she went with some bronze shimmer makeup, gold bracelets, and a flat evening thong (we're talking about her shoes, not what was under the dress. This isn't that kind of blog). Perfect approach for this elegant yet easy dress, wouldn't you agree?
So this is the finale of the 'Karen DvF' series. Thank you for sharing, Karen, it's been fun. A roaring success I would say, confirmed by the countless compliments and your beaming smile! Isn't that what it's all about?
Name of this 1950s Rockabilly Goddess: Amy May Miller. Seriously. Could her name be more befitting of her style? I love it, I can totally see it on a label inside a flirty skirt from a vintage shop.
Occupation: Hair Stylist
Pre-occupation: 1950s pin-up girl fashion and a soft-spot for the 80s (her red bandana scarf is right out of the 80s which borrowed it from the western looks of the 40s and 50s - how's that for brilliant accessorising!)
For breakfast she had: an XL double-double
Amy's 80s-tinged 50s style reminds me of the Brit label PPQ, a favourite of Amy Winehouse (let's pretend we don't know what she's been up to so we can concentrate on the clothes). I'm trying to locate a Canadian or US retailer selling the range but having no luck thus far (where are you, PPQ?). Saving me from being a total tease is the online fashion shop ASOS which delivers to North America. Here are a few fab 50s/80s hybrid looks I could see her rocking while cruising in a duck-egg blue convertible Thunderbird. Fancy taking a ride in these, Amy May Miller?
Inès de La Fressange, one-time muse to Karl Lagerfeld, occasional designer and now spokesperson for Roger Vivier, will be receiving the Légion d'honneur in Paris next week. The award was instituted in 1802 by Napoleon Bonaparte as the highest honour the Republic could bestow. Who else but France would choose a style icon as its most worthy recipient?
You have to love de la Fressange, who at 50 takes an endearing and refreshing view on older women's obsesssion with looking 30. As told to Lisa Armstrong of Times Online: “A lot of women stick with that because it was their favourite age for some reason. I don't really think like that. I mean, when a man tells you you look good, it's not because you don't have any wrinkles.” I think that's true. But women do that to themselves not to impress men so much as other women, non? Hence the importance of being comfortable in your own skin, which she obviously is - she's not competing with any woman.
And only an icon so deserving of her status could dispense such sensible fashion advice (she knows exactly what she's doing):
Keep an element of punk in your wardrobe - always. Even Chanel was a bit punk; the way she wore jersey and fake jewellery was a rebellion in her day.
Don't be afraid to make mistakes. If you have never put a foot wrong, you're probably too set in your ways.
Look for alternative ways of expressing what you feel: you may not want to wear a fluorescent dress, but how about a pair of tangerine patent shoes?
Dressing head-to-toe in expensive clothes can be as big a mistake as always wearing cheap ones. At every age it's far more effective to mix things up. I like it best when it's not obvious where my clothes come from.
Be open-minded about new labels. It's great to have tried-and-tested ones, but thanks to my two daughters I'm also a regular at H&M, Gap, Isabel Marant, Aspesi and Vanessa Bruno.
Can I be so bold as to add one? Smile. Inès has the most infectious smile - it's not at all 'modelly', it's from the inside out, through her eyes. And thanks to that, she'll endure indefinitely.
Photo: Stéphane Feugère/Oeil de Vogue (France)
Britain's greatest living artist, David Hockney, made 10 magazine's Old Men Dress Cool article written by Paul Flynn (is this the same fellow who writes View from My Sofa for Grazia?). Cited alongside David Lynch and George Clooney, Hockney is a far less obvious yet worthy choice. I think everything he does is cool and that includes how he's put himself together over the decades.
Speaking of, last year Hockney was listed in GQ's 50 Most Stylish Men from the Past 50 Years:
The British artist David Hockney—master of one-point perspective and portraiture, the Polaroid collage and the California swimming pool—has spent a lifetime dressing more for comfort than for effect, with a mind more for color than for trend. “His fashion sense is gemütlich,” says the writer Lawrence Weschler (Ed. note: he means comfortable or relaxed). On occasion, Hockney, now 70, has appeared in a gray flannel Savile Row suit. But more frequently, he’s made the rounds in workman’s pants that reflect his painterly ethics (“He’s one of the hardest-working artists I know,” says Weschler). He has also favored brashly striped rugby jerseys and ties, aviator or Coke-bottle specs, and suspenders as thick as a firefighter’s. What the curator Henry Geldzahler called the artist’s “primitive craving for brightness” manifests itself right down to Hockney’s toes. “He wears different-color socks,” says Weschler. “It’s such a fantastic innovation. Why on earth do we wear same-color socks? The amount of time we spend matching them, it’s absurd!”
Photo: King Collection/Retna LTD
And all this time I've been laughing at and criticising one of my brothers for what I now recognise is a brilliant attempt to introduce 'innovation' into the routine of getting dressed. Pairing a red dot-patterned black dress sock with a knee high grey tube sock is indeed pure genious.
I freaking adore David Hockney, when I look at his paintings I feel so happy (maybe something to do with his rare, 'seeing music' form of synaesthesia, which said brother happens to also have, as well as Yours Truly. More on that in an upcoming post):
Let's go back about 40 years or so to the heyday of Francoise Hardy - 'The Yeh-Yeh Girl from Paris' - French singer, actress and muse. A strong yet beautiful voice (still) with looks and style to match (still), making her one of the most influential Francophone style icons to date. Her sideswept, eye-grazing fringe, well-defined features and Courreges wardrobe (Andre Courreges was apprentice to Balenciaga in 1950, while Hardy is muse to Nicolas Ghesquiere, current creative director of the Balenciaga brand) created the look that designers and fashionistas are continuing to emulate today.
Ah, isn't that true style? How many of us can look back to when we were younger and not cringe? And let's see how many of today's Hollywood 'icons' will be identified as such in even five years' time. So few are able to endure to become legendary icons, it's that extraordinary combination of innate coolness, raw talent, unique beauty and that certain 'je ne sais quoi' that makes others follow so faithfully. And that's why we love them.
Francoise Hardy most certainly possesses that irresistable spirit, it comes through in her music and her images and bang, you're hooked. Yet another reason I adore French culture, Paris is the mother of the enigmatic woman.
Here's a live version of Voila from 1967 (she was 23). Hardy looks incredible as she finishes the song, stands there for a few seconds then skips coyly off the stage (and her look is over 40 years old yet hasn't dated whatsoever, I'm in awe):