The Swelle Life

Florals + Men at 7th Man Magazine

It's been ages since I've featured anything on men's fashion, then this editorial from 7th Man Magazine caught my eye. The floral and shell neckpieces from Pebbles jumped out, as did the soft and vivid spring colours. I love the styling which is by In-Fashion Editor Dan Blake. It may not be what you'd see on men walking down the street, but that's the beauty of editorial, it's inspirational - and largely aspirational - fantasy that you can take a cue or two from for yourself. As a side note, I was so taken by the Wooyoungmi knitwear in this editorial that I had to know more, and just watched the Korean designer's show for her AW13 collection which is the first time I've actually enjoyed watching a men's fashion show; to be genuinely excited about clothes I can not actually wear is a first! More on her to come, I'm intrigued. (I also tried to find more on Pebbles but can't find them - it's tough when a brand name is also a generic word, but no amount of clever searching has turned anything up - if you know where to find them, please tell!) 

Mid-Century Modern at its Best: Stills from 'A Single Man'

Tom Ford's directorial debut, A Single Man, may have come out nearly three years ago but I've now finally got around to watching it (that's my usual timing), and I'm glad I did. Ford's adaptation of Christopher Isherwood's novel is absolutely gorgeous, and although it's a story worth following closely, it's one of those films you could later watch with the sound down. Especially if you love the mid-century modern aesthetic which personally I go mental for - I had dilated pupils throughout. With beautifully shot scenes capturing with a discerning eye that which we wouldn't usually see, or rather, be shown.

Colin Firth brilliantly portrays George, a British professor living in LA in the 1960s who isn't the funnest guy by nature. He is struggling with the sudden loss of his younger partner, Jim, and we see him preparing to end his life. The film has a few, significant characters who were perfectly cast, particularly the sweet, young student Kenny played by Nicholas Hoult, whose 1960s American accent was so flawless that I began to doubt that it was indeed the English actor.  (Jude Law, take note. That's how it's done. What the heck was that in I ♥ Huckabees?)

I'll let the photos tell the rest of the story. (Don't mind the runny quality of most of the photos, I took them from the TV.)

GEORGE'S HOUSE

George appears as a kind apparition here. It could be taken as foreshadowing, or symbolic of the fact that since Jim's death he's become a ghost of his former self.

Hi-brow story alert! George is sitting on the toilet here, peering at his neighbours between the wooden slats of his beautiful walnut bathroom. Leave it to Tom Ford to make sitting on the can look stylish. That reminds me of something funny that happened to a friend once.  She was in the washroom at work, and you know how when you're on the toilet in a stall you can sometimes see out through the space between the frame? Well, when she was looking out (where else are you going to look?) a co-worker walked in and they actually made eye contact through that 1cm gap. It was really awkward and my friend didn't know what to do, so she smiled and waved. Her coworker did not. Needless to say, she waited until she left to come out!

KENNY

Kenny's friend Lois was played by model Aline Weber who I didn't recognise at first thanks to her Bardot-esque look. She didn't really speak, but she sure did smoke a lot.

CHARLEY

Julianne Moore's Charley was all about full-on glamour - she even brought out the purpley-pink cigarettes when she was dressed up!

JIM

SCENERY

Another model, Jon Kortajarena, who has featured in Tom Ford campaigns, plays an exotic James Dean-type who has a chance meeting with George. This LA parking lot features at both night and daytime with Janet Leigh's Psycho billboard looking on. It seems ominous, but I took it as symbolism for George's eyes opening to the tiny details usually overlooked in daily life, because he knows it's going to be his last day alive. He becomes engrossed in every little thing, and therefore so do we. This is my favourite scene:

GEORGE RUNS INTO THE NEIGHBOUR GIRL AT THE BANK

The head-to-toe turquoise of the girl's outfit with the walnut browns of the bank decor in this scene are gorgeous together. I love the random specifics of the scene. She's holding her pet scorpion in a curious jar which her more-than-likely gay brother - as she innocently insinuates in this scene - decorated with columns to make it into a mini Colosseum in which they watch it kill its prey.

A Single Man is a dreamy film, one that stayed with me which isn't something I can often say. Is there anything Tom Ford can't do?

Interview with Trine Marie Skauen: Making Up the Male Model

Last year I interviewed the fantastically talented makeup artist and art director Trine Marie Skauen (read it here). We saw her candy-spackled eyes, fresh glossy looks and avant-garde creations - but what about the men? Making the male models camera-ready is a bit more of a mystery, and one that you likely won't mind me exploring further!

The Norwegian all-round creative works in tandem with her fashion photograher fiance Marco DiFilippo, and together they travel the world creating extraodinary and beautiful images for magazines, advertising campaigns, video and an array of projects. (I think we've found two nominees for the 'coolest life' award.)

Here Trine answers some questions and gives up a glimpse into what's involved in making up and grooming male models, and what she thinks of it:

How do you approach making up men when you don't want them to look 'made up'?

I would say I work more or less in the same way when approaching ideas for men as I do  girl models. I do research and make mood boards if necessary. If the client wants him to look "natural" then it is more about the skin, making it look fresh, lips not dry, and covering acne and red spots. Then a "messy" styled hair.

Are there many opportunities to do more creative looks on men, especially when the target audience is men? Do men want to see the avant garde in their fashion magazines?

No, I don't think so, the majority of clients want "good looking" men in their campaigns. The differences are mostly if he should be slick, smooth or the urban, messy, cool guy. Like the cool Diesel / Levis guy or the slick Armani guy.

When it comes to magazines, I cannot speak for the men out there, but I believe most men probably like the cool, handsome "normal" guy; they can relate to that type. They probably read GQ, Vanity Fair etc. When it come to the more avant garde magazines like Numero Homme, which I love, the target group is more narrow.

This photo of the 'boy in the bow-tie' prompts the question 'How far do you go with the grooming for a shot where clothes are not the focal point?'

Sometimes I use foundation, creams or also oil, and we go as far as it takes us! It depends on the look. This image is from a test shoot and we just used a some normal cream, if I remember it correctly.

Ok, I'll come right out and ask - did you have to do his armpits?!

This guy actually had his armpits as you see, I did not do any cutting or shaving. We usually ask the agency to tell the models about the body hair. But the request is usually more along the lines of "don't shave for three days."

Or we shave him on set if it's a clean look. I've been lucky with the body hair until now - no clients have asked for shaving or cutting other places then the head! I sometimes have to cut the hair a little bit, but I don't really like that since I am not a hairdresser you know, I don't want to butcher the poor guy!

 
 


Reader Lauren wants to know "How receptive are the guys to having makeup done?"

When it comes to my job and putting makeup on models, they are used to it. They know they have to come to a shoot and just let us do what we want.

But I also see more and more boys using cosmetic products, they just want to look good. If they have acne or red spots they can use some foundation or concealer, some use balm on a dry lip, some use a little powder. Ok, it is not so many of them...yet. The trick is to make it look as "natural" as possible. I also like when men take care of their nails and hands.

Do you have a preference for working with guys or girls in terms of the makeup? And also the behaviour, is one generally more pleasant to work with or is it an individual thing?

The behaviour is individual, but I must say the most fun guys we work with are Brazilian, they are so easy going and fun. Overall, all the boys we have worked with were great, we've never had a problem. Some are just more stiff then others.

As for preference, it depends on the client and the model and project. I like both.

Thanks, Trine! You can learn more about Trine Marie Skauen and Marco DiFilippo's production company and view their work at their website www.tmstudio.me

 

 

All photos by Marco Di Filippo. Makeup and art direction by Trine Marie Skauen

Judy Blame's Monochrome Day at Showstudio

Judy Blame is the latest resident at Showstudio to spend a day being filmed and livestreamed while making original, one-off creations. An absolute treat of a feature, I think. It's a wonderful thing to see the creative process in action and it's fascinating to watch the individual's face as they do their thing, all the subtleties of expression that can range from satisfaction to frustration (Gareth Pugh was giving his sewing machine the business at one point) and everything in between. Which makes it a real burn that I forgot to watch today! (Been just a little busy).

The legendary London-based stylist, jeweller and accessory designer who has it bad for buttons and badges contributed two pieces to Showstudio's Blackwhite exhibition. Viewers watched him "stitch and adorn a pearly king's titfer" - that's not something you hear every day - and rework and develop a rather extreme neckpiece that would require a great deal of inspection to fully take in everything happening within the black and white curiosity. (My silly tendency to identify things as offspring of incongruent parents has me thinking the necklace could be the result of a collaboration between Mr. T and Karl Lagerfeld.)

 

Now that's a cool looking man. The neckpiece and adorned cap will be soon be available in the Showstudio SHOP. And if you're into Gaga you might want to head over to the site, she's practically lived there for the past month.

The Sublimely Exaggerated Knitwear of Kevin Kramp

Knitwear is arguably the most exciting thing happening in fashion right now. Innovative designers are taking the simple, traditional method of looping yarn and turning it on its head to create extraordinary sculptural shapes and complex and beautiful textures. Ultimately, they are reinventing knitwear and redefining what it means to us and how it relates to our bodies; much of it could easily be considered wearable art.

Kevin Kramp is one of these exciting and richly talented young designers who found himself intrigued with knitting well before the knitwear phenomenon exploded. The Minneapolis native began in the menswear program at London’s prestigious Central St. Martins, but found himself designing knitwear for each project. However, he couldn’t realize any of his designs as he didn’t know how to knit! After careful consideration he bravely made the jump to the knitwear program, having never knitted a thing in his life. Fast forward a few years to his graduation collection which caused a stir in the global fashion industry. Today he boasts several awards, sponsorships from the best of the Italian yarn manufacturers and has worked with many influential designers around the world including Richard Tyler and Carlos Miele. How’s all that for inspiration?

Over the course of our interview, Kevin relocated back to his native home of Minnesota - a move he had never, ever anticipated after working all over the world - to take on the prestigious role of Men’s Knitwear and Collection Designer for the upscale men’s label St. Croix Collections.

Here are our conversations:

One of the things that jumped out at me when I saw your work is that you’re of the ‘more is more’ ethos. Is this a part of a signature style or is volume something you explored with this particular collection?

Yes, it’s true! I do often max things out to the extreme, more IS more! This applies to my daily life as well! I can’t help but gravitate to more pattern, more colour, more shape, more more more, so the presence of all this consideration definitely is a signature of my work. However, your specific question to volume is a bit different – certainly I explore and push shapes to new areas, but they are not necessarily always voluminous, nor do I associate ‘volume’ with ‘more.’ Obviously we have seen form-fitting tops that are extremely maximal, and billowy tops which are plain and minimal. And to be honest, much of this collection is quite balanced to me, because I had pulled myself back from greater extremes in order to arrive at these ‘less extreme’ versions. This collection does not represent the outer limits of my capabilities of maximalism, but rather the satisfactory compromise I reached between my cuckoo tendencies and beauty.

 

I love that, ‘cuckoo tendencies’! Something every truly exciting designer must have! So, within the context of your own body of work this collection is a balance between the full-on and an honest consideration of what beauty represents. Do you think you were willing to look for that compromise because you’ve been able to experiment with your maximal approach as you say ‘to your outer limits of capabilities’? Or is there more work to be done there, more boundaries to be pushed? What was it that made you pull it back? I’m sensing it’s something about the maximalism that is that root of what drives you.

Well, I think that I have always balanced my full-on approach with what is beautiful, and that is not because I have already exhaustively explored my maximalist ideas and therefore must now limit them, but simply because many of my ideas and initial maximal work is hideously awful and ugly! I (happily) lose myself in experimentation, boundary-pushing, technique investigation, materials…to the neglect of beauty. After a good spell of stirring up my idea pot (many of which are ugly and hard to understand,) only then do I attempt to contextualize my ideas with what already exists in the rest of the world and the history of creation. This contextualization, or ‘compromise,’ is when I understand what of my work is very good, is beautiful, and what of my work should be hidden forever! Beautiful ideas often do not manifest into beautiful physical realities. It is my job, in the process of creation, to carefully consider the physical reality and honestly evaluate it regardless of its ideological inception. That is the hardest part…being honest with yourself.

Of course there is always, always more to be done in ‘pushing limits,’ in maximizing ideas and concepts (even if ‘maximizing’ means taking away.) I cannot imagine a point in my life when I will ever feel that I have satisfied all the exploration that is to be done, that I have ‘maxed out’ my maximalism.

That’s the beauty of creating, isn’t it? There’s no end to what’s possible. But as you indicate it’s also a challenge in knowing where to draw your own limits. It must be extremely frustrating to have a beautiful idea that doesn’t translate in reality. Have you ever taken an ‘ugly’ idea and made something beautiful out of it?

Well of course! So many ideas start with such promise, but then very quickly become ugly or lose their potential. This is just yet another part of  the  process that then requires careful thinking and strong decision making. Besides, life is often ugly, and undoubtedly I would not survive without rooting out the beautiful and focusing all attention on it! This ‘transformation’ process is inherent in living for all of us I think.

In the past decade we’ve seen a metamorphosis in what knitwear can be, it’s taken on a sculptural quality through the work of Sandra Backlund and Craig Lawrence and others, and your work in playing with proportion offers a new take on knitwear’s relationship to the body. I can’t think of a more exciting and innovative facet of fashion at the moment. What do you see for the future of knitwear?

I agree, knitwear is hot hot hot at the moment, I don't know why this bonanza of knit innovation occurred now, but it has and it’s damn exciting. But I honestly began (and continue) my work totally ignorant of the wider phenomenon of the growing sexiness of knitwear in fashion. I am just bizarrely excited by knitwear and all its potential…whether or not knit is hot on the runway, it’s going to be hot for me for a good long time. I never stop thinking about it! Ideas are a constant flow. There’s never enough, and always more. This knit frenzy will grow to be quite mainstream in the next ten years, of this there is no doubt. Knit is, or can be, simultaneously comfortable, casual, sporty, luxe and ultra high fashion. It’s easy, and immediately understandable. And much more difficult for the average person to make than is cutting and sewing basic fabric. Many people won’t wear oversized structured woven shoulders, but they will wear oversized piles of knit on their shoulders. Knit is intuitive, organic, much closer to the feeling of human experience. Wovens are forced, hard to understand, uncompromising. I can’t face those qualities in life anymore, I too easy crumble emotionally. I need the flexible, the sympathetic, the easy, for survival.

I think we can all survive - and flourish - on that! 

swelle.

All images courtesy Kevin Kramp

Macho Bears and Butterflies: The Wonderful Shoes of Tetsuya Uenobe

  

'Water imp drowns in river'

The designer shoes we’re offered each season are becoming bigger and badder and are continually pushing the boundaries of how crazy cool our feet can look, yet it’s still a fairly narrow view of what shoes can be. And if we’re honest, some of us can’t even walk in them. I have a few pairs of shoes I love the look of, they’re gorgeous and sexy heels, but I can’t leave the house wearing them unless I do like Lady Gaga and have someone push me around in a wheelchair.

What we put on our feet can be so much more than what we’ve come to regularly expect of our footwear, if we allow ourselves to think a little differently. Japanese shoemaker Tetsuya Uenobe is a sparkling example of how superior craftsmanship and the desire to impart some personality in our shoes can marry to produce works of wearable art – for our feet!

When I first laid eyes on Tetsuya’s work I was at once charmed by his playful and humourous approach to shoemaking – he draws inspiration from anything and everything around him from boats to monkeys to hot dogs. While Tetsuya says he isn’t adverse to drawing elegant and beautiful designs like Manolo Blahnik, Christian Louboutin and the team at Salvatore Ferragamo, his primary motivation is to make people smile. I challenge you to not crack one while looking at these ‘Macho Bear’ shoes, complete with bear’s own leather moccasins:

'Macho Bear' (with support insert)

Tetsuya designs and makes his shoes in Japan under his namesake label Uenobe. His interest in creating his own shoes came from meeting several craftsman while working in the fashion industry and he soon found himself becoming immersed in their world. He left his job in 1999 and enrolled in the shoe making program at London College of Art, then further honed his craft working alongside a bespoke shoemaker. Upon returning to Japan to launch Uenobe in 2003 he made an impression on Japanese couturier Mrs. Hanai Mori, who offered him the opportunity to show his works at Open Gallery Omotesando in Tokyo. Tetsuya’s influences include Tokio Kumagai and Jan Jansen, who are known for their unconventional approach to shoe design.  

He admits he has a tough time letting the shoes go once they are finished. (How sweet!)

I had the opportunity to talk to Tetsuya about his shoes and his process:

What kind of reaction do your shoes elicit? And do you have people asking for your art styles or do they usually opt for the more traditional shoe?

My art line was designed as an eye catcher at trade shows at the beginning. I realized these shoes got attention so I decided to develop this line. Actually, I mainly sell my shoes via retail shops so I do not know what customers feel exactly. People prefer to order the main line to the art line; however, many purchased the Koala and some customers bought the Bird from the art line. I have stopped producing the pumps line as the fit wasn't sufficient.

An owner of one of the retailers that deal in my works said customers love my shoes. They enjoy wearing them and appreciate the craftsmanship. I know a woman who is a merchandiser in the fashion industry who purchased the Bird (see right) and wears them at the office. She says she enjoys people noticing them.

I think people understand that my works are unusual. And they love such unusual style. Basically they are fashionistas so they are always looking for a new or rare style. Sometimes customers order traditional styles but the right foot is in red and the left one is in black, via the retailers. The retailers who deal in my works also appreciate individuality. My works are supported by such unique people.

Do you wish to see people wearing your more unusual shoes as an every day footwear choice – an alternative to the ‘usual’ types of shoes we wear, or do you see them as special and meant more for those who appreciate art in their garments?

It depends on the situation. If a philosopher, a doctor or a member of Parliament wears my shoes from my art line at their work place, they will lose credibility. However, wearing them for going out with a lover or to a party would be fine. Actually, I do not mind how people wear my work. My shoes are wearable but also decorative. The important thing is how much people love them.

Your leather sometimes looks as if it has been handpainted with watercolours. How do you achieve that effect?

I dye leather to look like marble. I pour water in a pan and make a a whirlpool, then add a few drops of ink to make the dye then I add the leather.

 

'Swan'

Do manufacturers actually know how to construct a good shoe? Is it possible to get true quality from a factory?

I think everyone who works in the shoe industry knows how to make a good shoe. The difference between me and others is handmade or factory made. Most workers in this industry do not know how to make them by hand. However, I believe they try to make good quality shoes by using machines. Low price shoe companies have to sell their products at lower prices, so they make chunky shoes, shapes that everyone can wear and this way they can cut costs. These can be seen as good shoes when you look at it from that angle.

What are the most important aspects of constructing a shoe, and what should we look for when buying?

Every single shape of the bare foot is slightly different. The shape of one person’s foot will be altered due to changes in body weight or simply from ageing. So people find it difficult to find the perfect pair at the shoe shop. I think the problem is people do not know much about the shape of their foot. They know and care about the shapes of their body but not the foot. Shoes should be attractive but also have to be practical. If you wear disastrous fitting shoes, even from a respected and famous brand, they are bad shoes for you. Bespoke shoes are ideal but very expensive. When you purchase your shoes, you should check the balance of the shoe and fitting, avoid rough finishing and not put whether they are a big designer brand as your first priority.

swelle.

For those interested in how Tetsuya constructs his shoes (I know I am!), here's a look into the process of making them by hand:

Insole: cut off extras and adjust the edge

 

Stiffener: make it thin and flat

 

Lasting: wrap a shoe form with an upper to fix the shape

 

Outsole: perfecting the shape

 

Sewing: securing the outsole on the upper

 

Tetsuya's art line is inspired by animals and plants:

 

'Flower'

'Panda'

'Panther' (the front detail is a view of the tail end of the panther)

 

'Hatch Out'

You can view the Uenobe collection including all of Tetsuya’s fantastical creations at his website.

Cupcake Monday: The Manly, 'Butch' Edition

Thanks to Boing Boing sussing out all the curious things happening in our world, we now have something for men on Cupcake Monday! Butch Bakery in New York (that city really does have everything) offers an alternative 'for manly men' to the "frilly pink-frosted sprinkles and unicorns kind of cupcake" - as if that's a bad thing! But sure, I can see how this former lawyer and entrepreneurial-minded fellow might have gotten tired of having to take boxes of those frilly pink-frosted sprinkles and unicorns kind of cupcakes into an alley where no one would see him devour the contents in an orgiastic flurry of fondant icing, red velvet crumbs and shame. A guy could use something a little less dainty to get his sweets freak on, we get it.

However, I think that 'manly' here is defined within metrosexual terms, for I'm quite sure that my dad (a bonafide manly man) has no idea what chocolate ganache is and how eating it would help him become more like Chuck Norris.

And come on, if the six 'styles' of houndstooth, camo, plaid, woodgrain, checkerboard and marble 'decorative discs' aren't cute, I don't know what is.

The Greatest 80s Guy Look Ever, Courtesy Robert Downey Jr.

I know these pictures are the worst and that usually renders them banned from The Swelle Life but there is nothing good on the internets and I had to take my own from TV. And when I say "I had to" I mean I had to. Look. Look what Robert Downey Jr. is wearing in Weird Science, that 80s magnum opus from John Hughes (don't you still miss him?). I must have watched it 100 times since it came out. RDJ has mastered the preppy-dandy look which I just can't believe didn't catch on. That one yellow sock pulled high, khaki shorts with a studded belt and wait - do I see a fanny pack peeking out? - the neck all nicely wrapped up in supple white cotton, and nothing says 'Do me' like an abundance of brooches, especially on a guy. Still, was there ever anyone cuter?

And that reminds me of a man I saw on the streets of Torino a couple years ago. I wish you could see his purple silk ascot but I had to be discreet when I was taking this photo. As you can see he saw me and I just looked at the ground and coughed because I'm slick like that. That is one wicked look. You don't see that in England.

Summer Re-run: Steampunk: Mr. Technology Meet Ms. Romance

Originally posted May 14, 2008

This is the last of the Summer Re-Runs. I'm back on terra firma Brittania, jet lagged and in need of a shower. I look forward to being lucid in the near future.

Love your iPOD and flat-screen TV but have fantasies of gearing up in Victorian corsets and crinolines, maybe throwing on some old aviator goggles? If that mix of antiquity and cutting edge feels incongruent, don't shy away just yet - you don't have to make a choice for fear of appearing hypocritically ingenuous. You may in fact be an ideal recruit for the Steampunk movement.

Steampunk is, most simply defined by one enthusiast, as 'the intersection of technology and romance.' A more encompassing description according to Ruth LaFurla of The New York Times, states it is "a subculture that is the aesthetic expression of a time-traveling fantasy world, one that embraces music, film, design and now fashion, all inspired by the extravagantly inventive age of dirigibles and steam locomotives, brass diving bells and jar-shaped protosubmarines." Wow. I love my tea dresses but now realise they are sadly devoid of protean context.

Hmmm, one of these groups seems a bit cooler than the other...

Steampunk arrived on the scene in the late 1980s and now thanks to the internet is seeing its popularity increase exponentially. Using the web as a show-and-tell venue, steampunk inventors are taking the technology of today and by adding elements of the past, creating new/old hybrids that are taking design aesthetics to an exciting new level. One especially impressive specimen is a computer with a brass-frame monitor and vintage typewriter keys, built by Jake von Slatt (shows sleek and minimalist isn't the only way to move forward):

Giovanni James steampunked his LCD television by wrapping it in burlap:

While steampunk fashion draws on the styling and detail of the Edwardian and Victorian eras as well as pre-20th century military uniform, some of today's most exciting and respected designers are supplying inspiration for the steampunkers' DIY approach to dressing. Nicolas Ghesquiere of Balenciaga, Alexander McQueen and even Ralph Lauren (falling into the 'respected', rather than 'exciting' category) make for worthy idols with their interpretations of period-costume elements such as bustles, crinoline and puff sleeves, figuring prominently in their designs.

These references are clearly visible in Alexander McQueen's exquisite, British colonial-inspired collection for Fall 2008 RTW (said to be his greatest collection in his 14 years of shows):

If you're interested in hearing what the influential von Slatt has to say about the movement, you can read this interview at Bostodelphia (try not to be hypnotised by his intense portrait - look quickly, then look away).

Altogether I find steampunk quite endearing: its love for treasured items from a distant past, the celebration of craftsmanship and detail not universally cheriched in our time, and its inclusiveness - the capacity to not only avoid shunning modern advances but find room to embrace what our technology provides us.   

von Slatt sums it all up beautifully when asked to compare the cultures of steampunk and cyberpunk: "In many ways I think Steampunk is a reaction to Cyberpunk, its a desire to inject an element of humanity and passion into something cold and virtual." We too, welcome that.   

Photos of Steampunkers: Robert Wright for The New York Times

Summer Re-run: Old Men Dress Cool and That Includes David Hockney

 

Originally published June 2008

Britain's greatest living artist, David Hockney (you heard me, Damien Hirst), made 10 magazine's Old Men Dress Cool list of stylin' well-aged gents. Cited alongside David Lynch and George Clooney, Hockney is a far less obvious yet worthy choice. The look of the young Hockney is worlds apart from the Hockney of today, as it should be. Though it would be kind of neat seeing a guy in his seventies looking like Kurt Cobain (see below).

Speaking of, last year Hockney was listed in GQ's 50 Most Stylish Men from the Past 50 Years:

The British artist David Hockney—master of one-point perspective and portraiture, the Polaroid collage and the California swimming pool—has spent a lifetime dressing more for comfort than for effect, with a mind more for color than for trend. “His fashion sense is gemütlich,” says the writer Lawrence Weschler (Ed. note: he means comfortable or relaxed. I looked it up). On occasion, Hockney, now 70, has appeared in a gray flannel Savile Row suit. But more frequently, he’s made the rounds in workman’s pants that reflect his painterly ethics (“He’s one of the hardest-working artists I know,” says Weschler). He has also favored brashly striped rugby jerseys and ties, aviator or Coke-bottle specs, and suspenders as thick as a firefighter’s. What the curator Henry Geldzahler called the artist’s “primitive craving for brightness” manifests itself right down to Hockney’s toes. “He wears different-color socks,” says Weschler. “It’s such a fantastic innovation. Why on earth do we wear same-color socks? The amount of time we spend matching them, it’s absurd!”

And all this time I've been laughing at and criticising one of my brothers for what I now recognise is a brilliant attempt to introduce 'innovation' into the routine of getting dressed. Pairing a red dot-patterned black dress sock with a knee high grey tube sock is indeed pure genius. 

I freaking adore David Hockney. He's a synaesthete, you know - he sees music.

More awesome old folks: Wizened, Wise and Really, Really Cool

Photo: King Collection/Retna LTD

A Bigger Splash, 1967

 

Man taking a shower in Beverly Hills, 1964

 

Mr. and Mrs. Clark and Percy, 1970

Summer Re-Run: This is How a Man Should Look

This is a summer re-run, a story from last summer when my blog was young, so I can post while I'm fighting sickies. It's also a tribute to the guy who doesn't quite get how to put himself together, but knows it. 

This is how a man should look. Well, maybe not the constipated expression. And the cigarette, well, let's just say it's a prop, a la Sean Penn. (This is Sam Fogarino, the well-presented drummer of New York-based band Interpol. More on him later).

The point is, it would be nice if more men had style. Meaning, REAL style, the kind that comes from within. Not the half-arsed effort of putting on a shirt that came out of the dryer from the 'permanent press' cycle (a HUGE misnomer) and believing the wrinkles will pass as having occurred during wear on the way to work. You're not fooling anyone, we can tell).

Straight men with inherent style are indeed a rare breed. So much so that others question their straightness if they look too good. Any man who likes ladies and can rock a super-slim Dior Homme suit and doesn't compete with the girlfriend for mirror time is pretty much a character from a fairly tale. (Hedi Slimane man-muse Pete Doherty doesn't count, he may wear those suits well and be straight in terms of romantic love but evidently doesn't ever utilize his mirror. Well, not for grooming, anyway).

So, are these our only two options: a man with little or no clue about how to dress, or one with impressive styling skills but otherwise insufferable? (aka 'The Metrosexual', are we still saying that?). Overwhelming evidence says so.

But wait - they can learn, right? There is that rocky road to (cautiously) venture down. Tip: If there is resistance, the defensive and uncomfortable kind, STOP. Give up and try your best to accept he is who he is.

However, if he's receptive to the idea, JACKPOT! Congratulations! You have found that one-in-a-million man who can't quite do it on his own but is willing to let you do it for him. Set him up with the proper gear: smart shirts, good jeans, decent shoes and cool jackets and then he may be able to dress himself without going wrong. Although he'll still need to be told that others will not believe that wrinkled collars 'just happen' while riding the metro.

As for Sam Fogarino, I had no clue who he was until a male friend suggested I look into him, being an example of a rare stylish guy who pulls it off effortlessly and all. The kind whose image might provoke exasperated girlfriends to bark at their boyfriends ' Why can't you dress like that? If he can do it, why can't YOU?', before hurling a copy of GQ at their stunned, red face and storming out of the room. Said friend is having the same problem, minus the throwing of the GQ in his face. Rather, a subscription was purchased in his name compliments of his girlfriend who suggested that although he already reads it, he 'might need to read it more.' You can't help but love that. Hope springs eternal.

The good news for her is that he's down with it. But if he can't quite get it on his own, she shouldn't fret. The trade-off is a partner who won't nudge you out of the way to get in front of the mirror, or be perceived as prettier than you, or be the reason for 'mysterious' hang-ups when you answer the phone. Not so bad after all, is it?

Here's Interpol's video for 'PDA' from the 2002 album Turn on the Bright Lights. Since we're talking style here, and this video appears to borrow heavily from the Surrealists (I'm seeing Dorothea Tanning, Yves Tanguy and Max Ernst) I thought it might peripherally fit the topic at hand:

Ript, Poked and Deflected

Boing Boing has come up aces today with a trio of goodies that I must share. First off is the 'Hypolux Chandelier' made of plexiglass plates and commercial syringes (I'm not quite sure what a 'commercial' syringe is but it might mean it doesn't have a needle), from Bughouse. It is really cool and kind of sickening all at once.

Next up is the Anti-Papparazi Clutch by [AH] Projects. That's right, it is meant to ruin unwanted celebrity photos and it works by detecting camera flashes and responding with another flash that obscures the photo and gives the subject a kind of Pulp Fiction open briefcase effect. Adam Harvey's website doesn't actually show the bag itself which exists as a prototype and is patent-pending. The designer says he is seeking investors. Well, that might be tough because the potential market is miniscule. First, no 'regular' person has a use for it; and second, we're all on to the fact that the most papped stars put themselves in front of the camera.

However, I do buy that Twilight's Robert Pattinson really isn't loving being stalked 24 hours a day by fans or paps so maybe he should start carrying the clutch. He can start the trend.

I saved the best 'til last. Get a load of this. Ript is "a classic men’s undershirt injected with steroids" created by a designer for Diddy's Sean John label. I don't know about you, but I'm attracted to a guy who is intrigued by a salespitch that uses "injected with steroids" to sell their product. It's like Spanx for guys and acts as a compression garment so the moobs and jelly belly are minimised. Right. A guy with a B-cup who looks to be carrying twins is going to be buying this. It's never the people who need it that buy it. It's the guy who goes to the gym five times a week and cuts out carbs who will drown in his own saliva at the prospect of looking even more cut in his tight t-shirts.  

I'd like to point out what Boing Boing also found amusing - instructions for how to put on the RIPT shirt:

This is especially funny considering that according to the Ript website the designer has "mastered her understanding of what appeals to the most sophisticated and discriminating men." Who need instructions on how to get dressed.

These come in XS. I'm so getting one.

Another Reason To Love Gareth Pugh

This whole 50th Anniversary hullaballoo for Barbie thing hasn't really got me fired up, evidenced by my passing Colette three times since the Barbie collection arrived, including today, and I couldn't be arsed to stop in to look.

Little did I know until now (thanks Jennine) that Ken was benefiting by way of a much needed makeover from Gareth Pugh who dressed up our favourite little eunuch in a look from his debut men's RTW 2009 collection, complete with wicked goth hair, shaped eyebrows and fully lined eyes. The black patent jacket is handmade (which means Ken has better clothes than you but that's okay, he has no wang) and limited to an edition of 50.

I think this is the jacket Ken's is based on, if you put the collar up - nothing else comes close from what I've seen. But I want to know where those awesome Edward Scissorhands boots are; did someone nick them from the box or is this MalibuGoth Ken?

I now have Bauhaus in my head...undead undead undead...

Source: MFLA

To the Nines, in the Streets

Vancouver is known for its laid-back, fun-loving and outdoorsy approach to life, an ethos that is reflected in its fashion and bolstered by local entities such as To the Nines, a streetstyle company who recently debuted their branded T-shirts for men and women at Vancouver fashion week. 

To round out my offerings here for the guys and help promote a homegrown Canadian brand I thought it worth featuring them, especially as I've been in a jeans and T-shirts mood as of late, having been influenced by the easy chic of Paris that largely consists of a uniform of jeans and (amazing) leather bomber jackets for casual walks about town. Not entirely congruent are the styles of the Parisians and the skate/surf/snow loving Vancouverites (obviously) but it's the lack of fuss in the details that prompts the comparison.

I love anything that's not made cheap and quick, and supports local industry, so congrats to To the Nines' Nikolai and Owen for having their T-shirts silkscreened by hand in Vancouver and sourcing most of their pieces in Greater Vancouver, and using high quality cottons and blends. They also point out that they are careful to avoid the trends and take their influence from the hiphop and punk music scenes, and they are all about the fun. Good luck, guys!

That's my morning hair! I thought at first glance the woman
on the shirt is playing croquet, then I took a closer look...

Tie Me Up in Sovereign Beck

Men's ties have become far more adventurous since Miami Vice introduced boundary-pushing fashions, and now brights, pastels, and even florals are a widely accepted presence between the lapels, and men are all the better for it. They can indulge in the fun of accessorising and display their personality without being mocked mercilessly by the boys. So there's really no reason to not have an exciting collection of neckwear at your fingertips.

But just as women have seemingly unlimited choices we're still always on the lookout for something better and more appealing, the go-to place for when we need that one all-important item. For men's ties, I think that place could be Sovereign Beck. The ties are handmade in New York in limited numbers in high quality silks, cottons and wools, designed to be both understated and provocative, and ultimately, a statement piece. And they are, without being too loud about it. They say "I know what I'm doing, and I don't have to think about it."

The duo behind the ties are Ryan Sovereign and William Beck, designers who graduated from The Rhode Island School of Design and went on to create Sovereign Beck in 2005. They were looking to give a new expression to convervative menswear - a mission that should be wholeheartedly supported and encouraged!

These are equal opportunity accessories - women wear the line just as well as the men. And for those after-work drinking sessions or your best friend's wedding, they'd also look smashing tied around your head.

Oh, and did I mention the prices are excellent? They're having a sale right now on an assortment in the $40, $50, and $60 range. You can shop from their website. We're picking out a few right now, and they are oh so sorely needed.

Russell Brand's Naughty Bits

I saw Russell Brand on his Scandalous tour last night in Newcastle. It was my first comedy show, but calling it that doesn't seem to adequately describe the uniquely wild beast that is Russell Brand.

After watching the opener, Mr G, who was the perfect warm-up with his just-funny enough jokes and his socially conscious poetry (he'd make a great rapper), there was break that lasted around 40 minutes. You don't want to sit for too long in a packed audience without distraction because you begin to notice that the air around you smells like beer, cheap perfume and farts.

Alas, the room darkened and the huge white backdrop came alive with a booming video montage of the news clips about Brand's and Jonathon Ross' 'disgraceful' radio stunt (if you live outside of the UK and didn't see it all unfold firsthand it's not really worth explaining, you just had to be here), and then Russell entered. He was wearing a jacket over a sweater that with all of its holes could have been from the Joachim Phoenix collection (though Russell has a style while Joachim just looks like a sad hobo), and of course, his Sass and Bide Black Rats leggings (he was wearing exactly what you see below, boots and all).

Now, he likes his skinny jeans, but Black Rats are women's leggings. And I was sitting fifth row, centre, which was so close to the stage I had to crook my head upward a bit to see him. And what I got was an eyefull of, um, uh, how do I say this...those tights were so revealing that I found myself giggle-shrieking and covering my eyes at first (I was drowned out by the uproarious applause his entrance aroused), it was all so 'out there' and obvious it felt as if there was no one else in the room but me and his junk, and it was forcing me to reckon with it. Now, I'm no prude, I've been known to shock with my silly and raunchy off-the-cuff comments, but still, I was not prepared to observe the fine detail of Russell Brand's nether regions through thin, black satin.

Luckily, he moves around so much doing kicks and shimmies that things shifted and (relative) dignity was restored. I hope he doesn't wear any one pair more than a few times or things are going to break loose.

I know Russell likes to Google himself because he told us so last night and even showed us a screenshot proving that he came in fifth in searches in the week after he hosted the MTV Awards (it fit the bit, it wasn't superfluous flaunting). And if he comes across this post he's probably looking for the ego-gratifiying worship. So here it is:

Russell Brand, you are a brilliant storyteller. I've never laughed so hard. There is no one like you. Just be careful with those leggings or you're going to poke a hole through them. 

You can read about the Russell-hungry girls here

Gareth Scissorhands

Admittedly, men's fashion weeks come and go with barely a glance. I think it's got to be a tough gig creating new menswear every season that men will actually want to wear, and then anything that breaks out of the realm of 'normal' can turn the runway into a walk of shame for the models.

Surely, I've missed many great things by being too embarrassed for them or fearing boredom too much to watch, but Gareth Pugh didn't get by me. As soon as his first menswear show, in Paris, came up in my Google reader I immediately clicked - I'm fascinated by him (despite his final product being the antithesis of what I am naturally drawn to) and was curious whether he used the same starting point as he did for his women's spring collection, namely the Predator/sci-fi influences. (Again, not my 'go-tos' as I'm a grounded, terrestrial girl but his take on all of this just does it for me.)

The feeling is familiar but for the guys he seemed to also draw from that goth hero, Edward Scissorhands. I haven't seen this confirmed in reviews but it seems to be undeniable with the white pancake and grey-shaded faces, wet-black hair, those boots with the skinny trousers and shredded detail  - though with Pugh it is always precise - and the fitted, black and silvery grey jackets and coats. And look at the hand ornamentation above, yeah?

Looking at these photos, I can't help but hear the track for the Insensate film that was inspired by his designs. And it works.

Stunning.

Photos: Marcio Madeira

Federer Ousted by the Über Elegant Karl Lagerfeld

First, Roger Federer had to deal with losing his ranking as the world's #1 tennis player, and now, he's found himself to be second best once again, in the domain of ELEGANCE. That's right, Spain finds this to be an important attribute in a man, and as such, Marca has voted him the second (oh, that stings) 'most elegant' man in the world. Karl Lagerfeld won top honours, likely thanks to his technique with a silk handheld fan, expert wearing of a ponytail, sexy pout, and the way his leather racing gloves caress his skilled hands of tender, white milkiness. And he does have a way of gliding across a floor whilst keeping his svelte body tight in his form-fitting monochrome suit. Ahhh.....what were we talking about?

Oh right. So, I guess the softly spoken Roger bringing finesse back to the game of tennis and dressing extremely well off the court just wasn't quite enough. Somehow, I think he can live with this one.

Source: Polite Applause

Ideas for the Ever Elusive Men's Gift-giving

Shopping for gifts for men is just brutal. No matter how well you know the guy you're buying for, the brain becomes a giant, grey void when it comes to finding that thing he'll really love and also shows you went out of your way to find something special. (That's if he already has an X-Box or you refuse to buy him one).

While actually not looking for gifts (I already got something wicked but can't say until later - a rare achievement that comes down to timing), I found this leather Paul Smith wallet with a photo of a striped mini (the stripes being Paul Smith's signature graphic) in a field, printed on the inside. For someone who's a bit quirky and stylish, I think something like this might be appreciated. And it's plain black on the outside so if he's shy about his tendencies he can keep them a secret.

And for a gag gift (albeit an expensive one), or if you are both just into these things, there's the 'naked lady' wallet:

Maybe not the best choice for your boss (male or female), male family members, or your minister/priest/rabbi/etc.

I'll add more things as I find them. Assuming I do...

Update: I just showed this one to my husband, and his reaction was to ask "Can you customise the picture??"

Men AND Women are Buying What Jon Hamm is Selling

Mad Men star Jon Hamm has 'arrived' - gay men love him. Don Draper-esque photos from his spread in Best Life magazine are making the rounds on blogs, particularly the gay ones. One such reader commented "Once you watch the show, your serious infatuation will turn even more serious. He is even hotter on the show than in this photo shoot." (His screen name is 'eggplant'. I'm assuming this refers to his love of eggplant parmesan sandwiches, and nothing else.) And from another, a suggestion for the producers: "They need to do a pool scene on that show and put him in a speedo."

Good news, buddy! I looked into it and Speedo introduced their famous 'brief' style suit at the 1954 Olympics in Melbourne, so a 'Speedo' scene in 1960 New York is at least plausible. Good luck with that.

Sources: Towleroad, Kenneth in the (212)

Men, You Don't Have to Suffer in Sweaty Silence Anymore

Reader Pret-a-Portly has brought to my attention a new product on the market that men have been screaming for, to soothe an untreated affliction that is part of everyday life - yet one that the women close to them are largely unaware of (unless they've considered what the frequent grimace-and-shifting of the nether regions might be indicating). As this blog does have some male readers (thank you), I would be doing you a disservice if I neglected to pass it on.

Amazon.com sells this little gift from heaven. You might want to make special note of the charming product description and the helpful and truly genuine customer reviews. Adios, dreaded bat wings. Eeuuuw.

In the words of Elaine Benes, "I don't know how you guys walk around with those things..."

Untucked Shirt Guy - No Rose For You!

Now that I'm in Canada I came across The Bachelorette the other night, it was the 'meet the bachelors' parents' episode so I decided to watch, there are usually a few nutters along the way. I haven't seen The Bachelor in ages, we don't get it in the UK unless you count the first few series which air from time to time at 4 am on LivingTV. Don't ask me how I know that.

The guy that bachelorette DeAnna was really insane for was Graham, who was the token aloof jerk who went on a show to win a girl who wants to get married yet he won't 'open up'. Maybe his mother made him go on, I don't know. Anyway, the four bachelors get ready to line up for the rose ceremony, the first three walking in wearing suits. Last, enter a dopey-grinned Graham in jeans with a jacket over a red sweater and a white shirt HANGING OUT from under the sweater, sauntering in with hands in pockets and all the charm of a guy who just dropped off a urine sample.

Guess what, he didn't get a rose. Jesse, the Sonny Crockett for 2008, got it instead. That's right, the short, greasy haired Gonzo-esque guy in a white cotton suit was a more dignified choice. Aloof Dude, you blew it with the shirt. I will bet Don Johnson's gay porn collection that as soon as DeAnna saw that stupid shirt, and those stupid jeans, and those stupid hands in those pockets her blood was set to boil.

She walked him out and she cited his inability to open up as the reason for letting him go, and through angry tears told him that his 'swaying and smirking' as roses were being given out was difficult to watch. But I just know she walked in unsure and it was those rogue shirt tails that put the nail in the coffin.

Guys, when it counts, you can never go wrong with a good suit, proper posture and hands you can see. Or you can be Aloof Guy and be alone with your hands in your pants.

Cherryfeld

A reader asked in the comments of a previous post, 'Did Karl Lagerfeld influence Don Cherry or was it the other way around?' Every time I see a photo of Lagerfeld I'm reminded of the colourful, amusing, wince-inducing CBC hockey commentator. They must be the only two people on the planet who wear collar styles such as these. Cherry has to be on his 50th tailor by now, I hear spontaneous retinal detachment claimed the other 49.

My guess is Lagerfeld wears those rigid, earlobe-grazing collars to hide neck waddle but Don Cherry, he's just mad. He's ensured, through his wardrobe, that he's the most interesting thing about hockey. Funny that, Karl is the most interesting thing about the fashion world. Never underestimate the power of eccentric personal style: Lagerfeld's ever-present white ponytail, the dark sunglasses at night, the racing gloves, and Cherry's capacity, through colossal (and intentional?) bad taste in suits, to make Herb Tarlek look like Tom Ford. Truly, forces to be reckoned with. Respect.