The Swelle Life

Maggie Gyllenhaal Dares to Wear the Fur Gilet

Fur issues aside (I figured Maggie to be one not to wear it), she's showing some serious fashion bravado for wearing the bulky fur gilet WITH A BELT! I see she cleverly kept the wide leather belt exposed in the front only, so the inescapable appearance of profile bulk is kept to a minimum. This is high-risk territory, reserved only for the fiercely confident fashionista. Dolce & Gabbana (below, left) sent long fur gillets down the runway for A/W 2008, worn both belted and unbelted, and Diane von Furstenberg took the belt-worn-on-the-outside look further (below, right), wrapping it around many layers of clothing to create the trend that so many of us want to work into our daily dressing, but can't because we'd wind up looking like a telephone pole with a rubber band around it.

Karl Lagerfeld Paints a 'Secret Ball'

Continuing on with features from British Vogue's Fantastic Fashion Fantasy issue, Karl Lagerfeld treats us to a series of paintings in which he imagines events (with the Batman movies in mind, it would seem) at the most exclusive party of the year - a ball hosted by an unnamed Russian woman in honour of her billionaire husband. There was no press, no red carpet, no charities involved, and the guest list remains a mystery.

"Hairstylist Katsuya Kamo has designed a veiled headpiece similar
to those he has made for Junya Watanabe. The guest has topped
this with a vintage diamond headpiece, believed to be set with
emeralds from the treasury of Tsar Alexander II"


"The male guests are all in Tom Ford tails, though these two
gentlemen have added Batman-style masks. Their leather gloves are by
Causse. She is in a Marios Schwab jacket, a Louis Vuitton headpiece
and carries an Alexander McQueen Faberge bag from this season"


"A masked guest dressed in colourful Tao"


"She is in gold Givenchy with another Kamo headpiece.
The Asian gentleman wears a vintage Cartier headpiece
of emerald, diamonds and feathers in his turban"




"This guest accessorises her pink Giles ensemble with Chanel lace
gloves and a 1912 Cartier bandeau with a huge sapphire. Her Cartier
necklace of the same year was bought at the Paris Biennale in
September 2008. Her companion is a distinguished gentleman with a
black monocle, who reminds Lagerfeld of someone now dead"




"The youngest boy in the room is claimed by this guest,
in Alexander McQueen"


"This Gareth Pugh-clad woman is accompanied by a man
disguised as Heath Ledger's malevolent Joker"

Unbelievable Fashion

Left: Alexander McQueen, spring 2005
Right: 'Wood table skirt', Hussein Chalayan, A/W 2000

Christmas came early courtesy of British Vogue: the wrapping is a tri-fold cover featuring Kate Moss in clouds of Dior silk tulle (though it's the dress I fancy much more than the model) and the treats are Fantastic Fashion Fantasy-themed editorial, with such delights as Tim Walker's fields of flowers tribute to Roald Dahl; Karl Lagerfeld's painted depiction of a Secret Ball - a mysterious, exclusive event hosted by an anonymous Russian woman for her billionaire husband; winter wonderlands created using the pages of books and decorated with jewels in Spellbound; an outdoorsy, technicolour editorial shot by Patrick Demarchelier; and to begin, Unbelievable Fashion - "a vivid and memorable demonstration that fashion can be about so many things other than what to wear", shot by Nick Knight (photographed from the pages by moi, apologies for any comprised quality):

  
John Galliano silk-gazar origami, spring 2007 Dior haute couture collection

Left: Alexander McQueen, spring 2005 collection
Right: Yohji Yamamoto, A/W 2000

Both, Dior couture, spring 2003

Gareth Pugh, A/W 2006

Dior couture, spring 2003


Left: Comme des Garcons A/W 2008
Right: Viktor & Rolf, A/W 2003


Thierry Mugler's paper concertina dress, spring 1991


Hussein Chayalan's remote-control aeroplane dress, created in 1999


Left: Hussein Chalayan, spring 2000
Right: Viktor & Rolf, spring 2006

The Original 'Ugly Betty'

I came across this photo on Dlisted this morning, it's Heather Matarazzo in the 1995 Todd Solondz film Welcome to the Dollhouse. One look at misfit 'Dawn Wiener' and a certain popular TV character by the name of Betty, aka Ugly Betty comes to mind. Inspired, perhaps?

Have you ever seen a Todd Solondz film? In addition to Welcome to the Dollhouse, I've seen Happiness (1998) and Storytelling (2001). Solondz, who writes the scripts for all of his movies, has a real knack for creating compelling viewing that hooks you, easying you into his disturbing story lines with clever, uncontrived dialogue, fascinating characters and a kind of surreal atmosphere that feels a bit like a daydream. Then 'Augh! What the hell am I watching!' - things turn totally perverse, yet somehow it all fits, and you feel dirty and disgusted, but you can't look away.

I highly recommend his movies if you appreciate daring film making, but I wouldn't invite the parents over for Todd Solondz film night.

Er, Is This the Best Way to Wear Comme des Garçons?

 
Photo: Emma Mattsson

I found these photos of a model wearing some outfits from the Comme des Garçons for H&M collection (see post below) on what I think is a Swedish website. Sweden happens to be the birthplace of the high street fashion retailer, but a model representing the stereotypical Swedish babe wearing the diffused avant-garde clobber doesn't seem quite right. It just doesn't ring true. The blonde, Baywatch-esque tousled hair, polite smile, girl-next-door make-up and the busting of Sears catalogue shapes is just wrong. She's lovely, no doubt, and certainly anyone should be able to wear what they want, how they want, without ridicule. But seeing as these are promo photos of some kind (not sure of the origin not being able to read Swedish and all), is this look really the best choice for presenting the collection (where was the stylist?), as say, Missy Rayder, who transformed brilliantly to bring the spirit of the Comme des Garçons brand to life:

The Madness Begins: Comme des Garcons for H&M Hits Harajuku

The most highly anticipated (and shockingly unexpected in the first place) designer/high street retailer collaboration EVER has finally arrived. Comme des Garçons for H&M was made available Saturday for a full-on fashion feeding frenzy at its debut location, the aptly chosen street-style capital of the world, Tokyo's Harajuku district. 

So, why the fuss? If you're not familiar with Rei Kawakubo and Comme des Garçons, the videos above and below tell the story (though you may not hear what H&M's Creative Advisor is talking about - speak up, please!), so take a look if you want to see what it's all about.

The 30 piece collection hits selected locations Thursday, November 13. Now that we've seen what's on offer, it is by far the most exciting, high quality, and true-to-brand collaboration yet. Good luck to the next designer who steps up. For locations near you, look here, and click on the bottom left of the page. Big surprise, it isn't coming to Newcastle in the UK. Hope you have better luck where you live. (Sniff) Aw, hell. THAT'S CRAP!!

Channeling 'Little Edie' Beale on Hallows Eve

 Last night I attended a proper Halloween fancy dress party, hosted by my awesome friend Sophie who made a fantastic goth/vampira-type with her white, shaded makeup and black fishtail dress with draped sleeves. I decided not to go scary (it's just so much work!) and instead had some fun getting kitted up as 'Little Edie' Beale with my 1950s brocade vintage coat and brooched head scarf (I feel terrible about the fur collar. Does it matter that the mink would have been long dead by now, anyway? No, no, of course not). As expected, no one knew who I was supposed to be. I was asked 'Are you in fancy dress?' (I admit it wasn't very costumey) and guesses as to who I was dressed as included a Romanian peasant woman and Anne Frank. I got that twice. (Geez, who would go as Anne Frank??)

So, who's 'Little Edie' Beale, you ask? Born in 1917, she was a New York socialite who modelled, danced and acted, and a first cousin of Jacqueline Kennedy Onasis. When her parents divorced, mom 'Big Edie' got the 28-room East Hampton estate known famously as Grey Gardens. In the 50s Little Edie came to live with her. She became known for her distinct style of dress and has since influenced John Galliano, Calvin Klein, Marc Jacobs (his 'Little Edie' bag from fall 2007), and Patricia Field ('Carrie Bradshaw' has been known to go full-on Edie) and two Vogue editorial spreads.

Well, mom was an odd bird and kept dozens of cats, didn't believe in litter boxes and apparently 'loved' the smell. Imagine. Poor Little Edie - a cat lover (and a urine lover) she was not. Not hard to believe, the house came into serious disrepair and was found in violation of every building regulation. And it was a sty that stank, ponged and reeked of cat urine. I feel sick writing this. Uch. Anyway, cousin Jackie O came to the rescue - the cat pee-pee garbage house had become a national story - and she paid $32,000 to fix and clean the place (that was like a zillion dollars back then). Workers carted away 1,000 bags of garbage. Wow. And it's said that the smell was still putrid despite the painstaking efforts. (I chose not to incorporate an olfactory element into my costume.)  

There have been three documentaries made about the Beales and Grey Gardens, and they've been the subject of several books, musicals, songs, and a movie starring Drew Barrymore and Jessica Lange is set for release in 2009. By then everyone who wanted to know who Little Edie was will know, and so will a lot of people who didn't want to know. (I got really weird looks when I explained my inspiration for my costume. I should have said "Yes, Romanian peasant woman. Great guess.")

Back to the party - remember the rabbit monster from Donnie Darko? He showed up (and he was missing a neck):

Those are Some Good Looking Urinary Tracts on Your Wall

Artist Shannon Wright seems to have a thing for "exuberantly healthy human urinary tracts", and as such has created a wallpaper design featuring the organ. I'm just glad she chose to depict healthy ones. You probably wouldn't want to hang this in your kitchen, but it's a good one for a urologist's office, though they don't tend to be too fancy.

Via Boing Boing

Manish Arora Takes Us to the Circus

You can't help but smile at Manish Arora's rainbow merry-go-round skirts, even if you find the circus performer make-up a bit creepy (well, I do. Find circus performers creepy, that is. Does anyone like clowns?). There's a dramatic and grand, three ring circus feel with the dark backdrop and spotlights, it must have been like actually being at one (again, if you like that sort of thing). The brilliant colours and the cut-out embellishments hanging off the skirts are so much fun, and how beautiful are the embroidery and sculpted shapes? For that reason, I'd buy a ticket.

Photos: Dominique Maitre

The makeup reminded me of the Tao show (Tao Kurihara is a protégé of Rei Kawakubo). Check out the bagpiper socks:

Photos: Style.com

Comme des Garçons: Looks Like Bush is in For Another Term

Does this one come in green? I'd really like to wait outside and scare the hell out of the kids who approach my door on Halloween. Alright, seriously, this was a Comme des Garçons show. You never know what Rei Kawakubo has up her black, re-imagined sleeve. She called this collection Tomorrow's Black. No one seems to know exactly what it means, and that's okay, that's how it has to be. Because the avant-garde is like performance art, there to keep the rest of us guessing about meanings. Those who do put in the effort usually wind up applying whatever it is they've ascertained to their own work, and by way of the process, establishing the creator of the original work as influential. That's how I figure what and how Rei Kawakubo creates has become so consequential. Whatever you make of it, she makes you think. Or shake your head and laugh, depending.

I like the wigs, kind of like Marie-Antoinette got her head caught in a cotton-candy machine. As for what looks like ripped apart footballs? Let the guessing begin....

Photos: Style.com

The Maison Martin Margiela Show is Going to Give Me Nightmares

Maison Martin Margiela showed in Paris yesterday, celebrating its 20th anniversary of creating highly innovative, fresh, and very wearable clothes for women and men. Martin Margiela is idolised the world over by design students, fashionistas, fashion editors and above all, his peers. And, he's the real International Man of Mystery - in his 20 year career he's never been photographed, nor has he granted an interview. Business communications are said to be done via fax (do we still have those?). Regardless of these accolades and the avant-garde context in which we are to view Margiela and his team's presentations, the way in which he chose to present his collection just plain scared the crap out of me. Models appeared to have their heads on backwards, there were long wigs on shoulders, wigs with what looks like a dog's mouth poking out (sorry to the model if that's in fact her mouth), masked faces (how in the world did the models see their way down the runway? Maybe there was a pile of them on the floor at the end)...stuff that after witnessing would have had me sleeping in my parents bed as a child. And not much has changed since then.

However, if you find all of this intriguing and want to learn more about Martin Margiela and why he is considered the absolute best by the fashion giants, read this excellent article. 

And you can visit the MMM website to see how the fashion house has chosen to communicate and package itself (very telling) - once in, it appears you've wandered onto someone's FTP site. Just so you know, you are where you're supposed to be. But they do make you wonder.

If you're not a total wuss like me, take a look at more shots from the show:

Photos: Style.com

Gareth Pugh Would Sooo Freak Out the Soccer Moms

Okay, so Brit Gareth Pugh went for showpieces more than showroom for his Paris debut to ramp up an already dramatic approach to the collections and make his mark outside of London. And it worked - everyone is talking about him, thanks to the exaggerated shoulders, masterfully crafted ruffs, articulated limbs and sculpted dresses that dominated the show. Black on the back and white on the front, each of the looks was a showstopper. I feel a bit like I just watched Star Wars.

If you want to know more about Gareth Pugh, read his pre-Paris interview at DazedDigital.com

Photos: Style.com

Marni's "Intelligent, Crazy" Spring Collection

"I was wondering to which point a human eye can bear to see so many colours, prints - altogether, in one look" ponders Virginie Mouzat of Le Figaro, who appears to have suffered a bit from watching the Marni show. I pretty much thought the same thing upon first glance of the collection. Marni is known for mixing things up yet achieving a very pulled together look, so I was really excited to see what the Italian label has in store for spring. Then I saw, and I was confused, but intrigued enough to take another look. The second time around seemed to bring some clarity and I found myself able to appreciate the different textures, colours, prints, and shapes, without having to shake my head to 'reset' fluttering eyes.

Take a look at the photos first, then watch the video, and who knows - you may like what you see:

Photos: Style.com

Victoria Beckham Finally Gives Up Heels

Victoria Beckham has ditched the stiletto, but only the back end. The petite fashionista would sooner get rid of her husband David than the extra height her vertiginous shoe collection affords her. Ever so media savvy, she's figured out how to increase inches in her stature as well as the tabloid columns, with Antonio Berardi's $6,000 thigh-high PVC boots, sans heel.

So, is she walking on air? The broken toe bones that fall out of her boots upon removal at the end of the day would surely attest to the contrary. I can see how they work, the platform extends just beyond the high point of the arch to create enough stability to not fall over, and maybe even walk a few feet! 

But if you take a look at the close-up photo, things aren't looking too polished. Upon inspection, the black PVC shows lots of finger prints, probably from the team of six men required to get those things up her legs. A purse-size bottle of Windex and a chamois would be a wise addition to the handbag. And do you see the right platform? It appears to be coming off the 'sock'. Another view I saw confirmed that the design doesn't look to be well-engineered. I guess $6,000 doesn't buy what it used to.

Photos: Daily Mail

'Bruno' Makes Naughty Runway Debut in Milan

Sacha Baron Cohen wreaked havoc as he stormed the runway during Milan fashion week as his alter-ego 'Bruno', a flamboyant Austrian model famous for clashing with rednecks on Baron Cohen's Da Ali G Show. Wearing a ridiculous get-up consisting of a massive cape-like sheet, and several items tied to his body - including a suede boot and a handbag decorated with pom-poms - the comedian boldy interrupted the Agatha Ruiz de la Prada show. Oddly, he was not tackled (that measure is reserved for PETA during Fendi shows) and allowed to walk the runway before being led away by security. A man, seen above, did attempt to haul him back upon his entrance but 'Bruno' wasn't having it and continued on to strut to some cheers from the crowd. And that man doesn't look too bothered (see below).

Baron Cohen and his team used fake passes to fool security guards into letting them into a backstage area. Apparently they tried it again Thursday, but were kept out by the tightened security. The prankster is in Milan working on his next film Bruno: Delicious Journeys Through America for the Purpose of Making Heterosexual Male, which is due out in May.

I feel sorry for the designer, her show was ruined. Didn't Sacha Baron Cohen know this is fashion week for Spring ready-to-wear, not Fall/Winter???

Here's the video (followed by more pics), though there's not much to see:

 

Via Huffington Post

There's a Crinkle in Miuccia Prada's Eye

If the 'crinkle' look isn't your thing, blame Miuccia Prada when it's everywhere next spring. The Prada show in Milan revealed what's likely to be a key trend for 2009, if Autumn's lace craze is anything to go by. The collection was essentially described by fashion editors as being overtly feminine - the clothes were falling off the models or looking as if they could, and the crinkliness suggested the shirts and skirts had been thrown on, as if picked up after being strewn about the bedroom hours before in a frenzied bout of afternoon delight. On most of us, however, this disheveled look would likely say 'overtly in need of a good ironing', and 'I got dressed in the dark'.

Prada played with some shockingly harsh-hued metallics as well - notice the woman in the front row who appears to have been temporarily blinded and is searching for her sunglasses (hint - they're on your head):

 

I'm not going to criticise Miuccia because she must know something I don't (which goes without saying). But what did appeal to me was Moschino's lovely palette of lilacs and blues, which look so fresh and pretty in shiny silks, especially when head-to-toe with the matching/contrasting tights and shoes. These outfits were a great relief after Rosella Jardini sent black and white harlequin patterned dresses out to open the show (the jester look just doesn't do it for me, and never will - though this little bit peeking out isn't so bad):

Moschino proves bows aren't dead, rather they're as big as ever:

Photos: Style.com

Milan Day Two - Flappers, Kink and Ships Ahoy

Because I can't seem to leave anyone out (though I am making an effort to edit myself):

• Alberta Ferretti gave the flapper dress and underpants(?) a fresh new look, using metallics and embroidery;
• D&G took the 'more is more' approach and went nautical (really? that's back again? already?) and big and busy with large metallic ornamental embellishments and fishnets with absolutely everything, including an outfit that looks like a fat guy's bathing suit from the 1940s;
• Burberry Prorsum was pretty cool as far as the individual pieces are concerned (I loved the easy, pretty dresses and skirts), but the palette was more than a bit shadowy and gloomy like its home country. However, the stunning black trench dripping in sequins wouldn't have me thinking twice about venturing out into crap weather (and it IS crap);
• Giorgio Armani gave us more gorgeous beaded gowns in nude shades (and thankfully no male escorts on the runway this time);
• Pringle of Scotland did lacey and ruffled knits, and Clare Waight Keller was apparently inspired by David Hockney's swimming pool paintings, which once revealed leads to automatic disappointment for fans of those paintings; 
• More incredible knitting machine creations from Missoni, some with stud embellishments;
• And Francesco Scognamiglio revealed transparent plastic pants, a pastie! (yes, just one) and very sheer blouses = I see boobs. Some impressive dresses with sculpted ruffles, too, but does that even matter now?

Here are more of Alberta Ferretti's flapper reincarnations (how lush):

D&G - not for the minimalist:



This is Spring 2009, right?

 



Burberry Prorsum (view with Prozac):







Giorgio Armani (we'll see these at the Oscars):







Pringle of Scotland - is this Hockney's 'splash'?:







Missoni:







Francesco Scognamiglio is not subtle:





Saved!:



...never mind:

Photos: Style.com

London Fashion Week Curiosities

Part of the fun of all of these fashion weeks are the outfits that are, um, maybe not what we'd choose to wear. You might even find yourself asking "Really? 'Ready to Wear'? Where?" But as I mentioned earlier, someone, somewhere will love them (I'm trying to be kind). So here's a peek at some of London's most 'out there' looks (and there weren't that many crazy ones), starting with House of Holland (and above, obviously):

Nathan Jenden:

Besides this flaming yellow dress that completely overshadows the model, Nathan Jenden also created a most unusual yet beautiful origami collage dress:



Roksanda Ilincic:

Photos: Style.com

Good Times, Strange Sights at London Fashion Week

 

London Fashion Week wrapped up tonight and what a week it was. Alongside stunning, inspired clothes that could be considered works of art, there were some truly bizarre concoctions. But fashion wouldn't be fashion without them, everything needs balance, right? And like people, someone, somewhere, loves them. It wasn't just the clothes that drew strange looks, however. The celeb element was out in full force for the shows and the celebrations, and while some were on their best behaviour, out to support their favourite designers, others were a bit of a spectacle. Again, it wouldn't be fashion without it, right?

Above, an out-of-place Pamela Anderson sits the front row for the Vivienne Westwood Red Label show, and yes, that's a real person beside her. Rumour has it it's her new pal Michael Jackson. If so, I'm guessing his whole head finally fell off and this was the best he could do at short notice.

Next is Kate Moss, who had a good time as always at the parties and had to be held up as she made her way to a waiting taxi, accompanied by a relatively more conscious Allegra Versace (I'm sorry, for some reason I just had to include this):