The Swelle Life

Chanel Film: Bicolor, The Making of the Cardigan

Click the image to watch the Chanel film Bicolor, The Making of the Cardigan at Chanel News

Leave it to Chanel to turn the making of a cardigan into something magical. From choosing the colour of the finest cashmere threads to the finishing of the piece with those intertwined C buttons - measured for exactness with a wooden ruler - we get a glimpse into the highest level of craftsmanship that goes into making the French fashion house's two-tone cardigans.

Chanel's cashmere is produced in Hawick, Scotland. In fall 2012, Chanel purchased the Barrie Knitwear cashmere mill after its owner company collapsed, saving 176 local jobs and keeping yet another artisan manufacturer from going the way of the Dodo. To date, Chanel has ensured the quality and that unique exquisiteness of their garments by acquiring the struggling couture ateliers Lemarie, the last remaining Paris plumassier, Michel for millinery, Desrues for costume jewellery, Massaro for shoemaking, and Lesage for embroidery. Most of us may never be able to afford a Chanel garment (lottery tickets), but it's nice knowing they're still out there in the world. 

Chanel goes to the ballet; Givenchy to Japan

Riccardo Tisci followed up last season with a kind of 2.O of Givenchy's winter anatomy references with his new obsession: Japan. The pieces in the photos below aren't the most laboriously detailed ones but they're my favourites, and the backs of all of them are even more impressive than the front. However, it's worth mentioning that according to Tim Blanks, one really out there outfit required 2,000 hours of cutting and 4,000 of sewing, and a single pair of trousers had 90 meters of plissé. Now that's haute couture! You know my feeling that your eyeballs should desperately plead 'May I have a rest, please?' upon viewing an haute couture show and your brain should fizzle from over-stimulation and amazement.

Karl Lagerfeld delivered what we always want from Chanel. Pretty, delicate, youthful beauty, this time inspired by light and the ballet. There were skirts and dresses over skinny pants and leggings, lots of floaty chiffon - I don't need to mention boucles and tweeds do I? and - flats! At first I wondered why the models looked so 'normal', and that was because they weren't Amazons in their little ballet shoes. I have to say I prefer the freakishly elevated walk down the runway but hey, at least there were no clips for the blooper reel.

Kristen McMenamy closed the show:

 

 

 

 

Photos: Style.com

Surprises at Chanel Cruise 2011

Nothing out of the ordinary here, 'proper' Chanel

I'm just not sure what to expect when I see what's come off the runway at Chanel these days (and this is fashion so that's probably the point). The fake fur extravaganza for fall and the previous spring hoe-down had me scratching my head. But the spring haute couture was an absolute dream, and I guess that's what I want to see consistently from Chanel, it's just too good not to want it each and every time.

As for the surprises, I know the whole '"Look! They used a 'normal' girl!" is a bit boring, like a girl with curves is a freakshow at the event. But having said that, "Look! Karl used a normal girl!" at his Saint-Tropez resort collection show. Plus-sized model extraordinaire Crystal Renn was one (looking not so plus-sized, actually):

But what is more confounding than Karl's love/hate relationship with body image (but why should that be exempt from his fickle tendencies) is his choice of outfits in some cases. What Crystal is wearing does not whisper 'Chanel, mon cheri' in my ear. It's more like a screeching 'CHANEL??!!' Is it just me? I'm going by my first impression, a reaction which caused me to sit back in my chair. Oh yeah, it was that extreme, it creaked and everything. And what about this one:

So is it just me or does this say early 90s to you? More importantly, would you spend thousands on this outfit? Would this really be the look you would take away from a Chanel boutique if you were about to fly off for a beachy holiday? I imagine one would have to be extremely wealthy to be willing to throw the plastic at stone-washed cropped and cut off denim.

And here we have Eniko Mihalik, who in flats, bikini bottoms and beach dress looks nice and curvy in all her womanly glory - where was she hiding that? She has the most endearing face, she always looks like she's smiling:

And then there was Georgia May Jagger who was tied in with references to Bardot (duh) and her dad. Some guy named Mick. He had some hits. I don't really want to show you but here you go anyway:

I can't not mention the men's outfits which are the gifts that keep on giving:

 

Come on, quit messing around. Just go full pirate.

And Chanel girl Vanessa Paradis who I'm including because, you know.

 

Photos: WWD.com

Chanel Haute Couture: The Details

What can I say? As we anticipated, Karl Lagerfeld delivered what we love about Chanel - the tweed suits; lots of tulle and lush boucle; feminine pastels in pale pink, lilac, greens and blues; odd hairstyles (adorning the centre part of an unusual updo); opulent embellishments; and froth galore - all wrapped up in the usual youthful, pretty package.

The difference this time was jackets paired with shorts rather than skirts and trousers - which isn't my favourite look but it keeps things fresh (though I wasn't complaining) - and liquid metal leather shoes with carved heels over high-sheen opaque tights and matching racing gloves that could have come from Karl's personal collection. However, monochrome was absent. I was going to say 'noticeably' absent but it just dawned on me. I don't miss it. He'll probably send out a parade of models in black and white for A/W  RTW, so if that's what you want to see you only have to wait until March.

I want to drown in those boucle pastels.

Oh! And camellias! I didn't see any. I think maybe the fingers are still sore at Lemarié after last year's spring camellia extravaganza. There were no multistrands of pearls and chain, and the double Cs seemed to be banished as well in favour of a more elegant image.The accessories were for the hair and hands only, with the exception of some sweetly tulle-wrapped necks. 

And the ever-present groom, Baptiste Giabiconi, looked a bit like C-3PO in his gold suit.

 

Noughties Retrospective: The Best of Haute Couture, Pt. 1 - Chanel 2001

It only dawned on me a few weeks ago that we're coming to the end of a decade, those consecutive 10 years that are supposed to be marked by some common thread and fascinating highs and lows. Seems like such an obvious thing but sometimes I don't see the big picture, I'm too busy dissecting the minutiae of the things around me. What that common thread may be, I have no idea yet. Well, actually I did come up with something about how the internet/blogging/social media has revolutionised communication and created previously unattainable opportunities for us keyboard jockeys, but after a long paragraph on the subject I bored myself nearly to tears and so deleted it. I can see you nodding your head in agreement. And anyway, you can read that kind of thing a million other places and it will be a far better read.

Besides, what I really wanted to look at from the past decade - the 'noughties' - is the haute couture collections. The expert craftsmanship from the ateliers of Lesage, Lemarie, Michel, Desrues and Massaro - and the independent designers whose contributions go uncredited - are instrumental in making the creations of our biggest and best fashion houses the exquisite and extraordinary works of art that get our hearts all a flutter. It's the details that I live for and nothing gives the goods like haute couture.

Since documentation of the shows from 2000 are proving to be elusive I'm starting with 2001. And the first is Chanel. Throughout the past decade the beloved Paris fashion house continued to operate as a private entity owned by the Wertheimer family which means they warded off LVMH, Gucci Group, Richemont and Prada (though whether there was actually movement on that front I have no idea). Good for them, good for us.

I took screencaps from grainy video for both the winter and summer collections, it really was all I could find, and the summer is far better looking than the winter. The caps are far from crisp but I think it worked in the summer show with its dusty blue background - the images look rather painterly. I concentrated on the details such as the lushness of the textures all mixed together and of course, the accessories. And it was fun seeing the faces from 2001, the models who are mostly retired now except for Carmen Kass who has found a rare longevity in her runway career - or maybe it's mostly a willingness to get out there again and again?

The hair for winter was very Desperately Seeking Susan with the scrunchy bobs and bow hairbands, though I'm quite certain it wasn't a direct reference to the Madonna movie. I mean, come on.

 

At first I thought the summer show was held in one of the oval rooms of Musée de l'Orangerie in Paris where many of Monet's water lilies paintings are displayed - this was before the Grand Palais became the Chanel venue of choice - but the pillars that appear behind the seats don't exist, at least not in the renovated version I visited earlier this year. Anyone?

 

 

 

 

 

Amazing Grace Coddington

Photo: Patrick Lichfield, 1964

Obvious headlines aside, U.S. Vogue creative director Grace Coddington, the one who is said to be 'the real star' of The September Issue, is getting major press and we're being treated to some gorgeous modelling shots from her days in front of the camera. Well, they were already out there in online portfolios of the photographers who shot them, but who knew until now? (Other than you, Ms. Diehard.)

The hugely influential Welsh fashion editor/stylist is quite intriguing in that she's as stubborn as Anna Wintour and even more private. And I already adore her not just for her dreamy fairytale editorial but for having said this in 2003:

"There are no models on covers anymore. They're all actors because they're what sells. An actor often dictates what you're going to get. I find that annoying. And I'm incredibly shy, so they scare the pants off me. But I feel perfectly comfortable with the models. They're like my kids."

I loathe actors on the covers of my fashion magazines. Do designers send actors down the runways? No. Only as occasional novelty. So why then are models bumped for them almost every time? To keep the Photoshop people in business?

The September Issue opens in the UK on September 11. Who's coming with me?

Photo: John French, 1965. Grace wearing Nina Ricci

 

Photo: Chris Moore. Grace in the front row at Pierre Balmain, Paris Haute Couture, A/W 1977

 

 

 

Grace and Karl: 'You're fabulous!' 'No, it is you who is fabulous! It is not possible!'

Watch a Chanel Haute Couture Garment Being Made

There is nothing more exhilarating in fashion than laying your eyes on an exquisite, artisan crafted haute couture garment of spectacular beauty. I'm endlessly fascinated by the techniques employed by the plumassiers at Lemarie and the embroiderers at Lesage and when I find footage of them at work I nearly explode with glee.

Chanel gave The Cut exclusive video of its seamstresses turning a Karl Lagerfeld sketch into a finished dress and jacket. "Each pattern is made and cut by hand. Each sequin is painstakingly sewn on by hand. Every inch of piping and each seam is hand-pinned." It's barely more than a four minute video but it's a delight to watch. Enjoy.

To read more about haute couture including how a Chanel jacket is made see here (scroll down).

Geeking Out at Chanel

Sasha Pivovarova with Karmen Pedaru

Earlier this week I was in Paris to attend what was supposed to be two couture shows: Xuan-Thu Nguyen and Alexandre Matthieu. Then I was bumped from the latter by Vogue Italia! I was one of the last confirmed and they made requests after the list was closed and therefore I became the sacrificial lamb. I was disappointed because I really admire the beautiful work of Alexandre Morgando and Matthieu Bureau and this was the first time they were invited to show during haute couture week. However, their people were very apologetic and asked for my understanding. And uh, yeah, I think I can understand why Vogue might have won out there. Turns out I wouldn't have made the show anyway, I got in to Paris too late, so I was saved the frustration of missing it.

Xuan-Thu Nguyen's superb collection deserves a post of its own so this one is about what I saw afterward, outside the Chanel show at Grand Palais. And this is where the geekery comes in. I couldn't care less about celebrities (although I'd love to see Vanessa Paradis who really is more than a celebrity). Haute couture favours the socialites who are the ones who buy from the collection and fashion editors and other big players in the industry, and it's those influential people I'm most interested in. Socialites slide right off my brain, however, but I was looking forward to seeing Daphne Guinness who must have been there but I didn't see her (and she's so much more than a socialite, it must be noted). Her cousin Jasmine was and she looked fantastic with her red lips, red belt and red seamed stockings (she never goes out without something red). And she paused for a photo when she saw me light up at noticing her but the shot blurred. (Ed note: this was before I had my beloved Nikon D-7000.)

It rained while sunny and we got a rainbow over the Petit Palais across the street!

 

Before that, the same thing happened but with Mario Testino. I nearly died. He saw me gasp (I couldn't help it) and stood right in front of me, looked me in the eye and smiled. My heart was racing and my fingers were so shaky that the photo came out completely blurred. But I'm keeping it because you can still see that he was smiling. And what a smile it was. He's quite tall, too. He has a very charismatic presence.

And then it was like my fairy godmother granted all my wishes at once with a parade of style icons, editors, the models from the show and the most gorgeous Chanel haute couture dresses. One young socialite who couldn't have been more than 17 years old was wearing the most exquisitely detailed dress with lace and tulle and camelias which I believe is from the current collection.

The Queen of fashion journalism: Suzy Menkes and her famous quiff.

I was so excited to see Suzy Menkes, then I turned around and Carine Roitfeld, Editor in Chief of French Vogue was right in front of me in a stunningly tailored black jacket with silk satin lapels, and I happened to catch the split second where she smiled. I was expecting Balmain shoulders but she's already done that. Next.

Carine Roitfeld

And to top it off, there was Anna Piaggi looking as no one but Anna Piaggi could. And no one was taking her photo but me! How can you not photograph Anna Piaggi? She was whisked away in a waiting car, which was a Vogue car. Yes, it had 'Vogue' painted on the side. Speaking of Vogue, Vogue Italia's editor-in-chief Franca Sozzani went unnoticed as well. I didn't take a photo because silly me didn't want to appear ravenous like some others out of respect (I must have confused a major fashion event with a funeral). But then the subjects became far too tempting and I remembered that I do write a fashion blog. And they are surely used to being photographed by now!

78 year-old Anna Piaggi. A legend.

And this woman below was something else, she was wearing a sheer dress with nothing underneath on top and had a much younger and very dapper man on her arm. She hammed it up, flashing some leg and dancing around and then she changd her shoes with the help of her date who replaced her heels with ratty flip flops! Awesome.

And now, the models. When Sasha Pivovarova appeared, my favourite of the last few years and the one who filled the void Gemma Ward left but in her own way - people went absolutely apeshit. Imagine this, gasped in the most over-the-top male 'fashion' voice: "She's FANTASTIC!" Gasp. Moan. Gasp. "She's THE BEST!" More gasping and shaking of the head with mouth agape. And a little bit of drool. She was in FULL model mode and with that Chanel cap (see the header photo), the hip-skimming multi-strands a la Coco and her attitude ,she gave everyone exactly what they wanted. Her intensity is really quite surreal. Her signature 'psychotic episode' stare is a force of nature, yet for that brief moment I wasn't sure what was in front of me was actually human. Here's an example if Sasha is new to you:

More girls who just can't help being 'modelly' when off the clock:

She whipped out the cigarette and began smoking in one
fluid, overly-dramatic motion. She still reeked of tobacco, though.


I love this photo, they are still in model mode from the show and every movement seems camera-worthy. Yulia, Tara Jean and I can't tell who is on the left (many do look the same!). Just about everyone but Yulia and Elsa walked out in their wingy eyeliner, the look from the show.


Lara Stone. Her gift bag was bigger than that of a lot of the other models.

Remember, she's considered the 'normal-sized' girl':

Baptiste Giabiconi, who appears in every Chanel show and is Karl Lagerfeld's longtime muse. Apologies to him for the laser eyes.


Elsa Sylvan. She walked out eating a sandwich, likely in response to rumours about her weight.


Magdalena. Stunning.


Shu Pei Qin. I cannot begin to describe just how gorgeous she is in person. Especially when she smiles. She's so tall and she presented as the most impressive out of all the models.

Oh, and I finally got to sit in Ladurée's dreamy bar and have my macaron cocktail. I went for the cassis. And it was only 22 euros! Seriously, it was, but I had to do it once. It was strong, as in alcohol, and that cream at the top while at first seems more fresh and milky than rich and creamy, is deceptive. I got so full that halfway through I had to stop. Maybe I should have had it before I had lunch upstairs. I didn't know how I was going to finish it, but despite feeling very uncomfortable I persevered - it cost 22 euros after all!

I finished all but a couple of sips. As I ventured out on Champs Elysees I thought at one moment I might throw up right there on the street. And if I had, do you know what my next words would have been? "I REGRET NOTHING!"

En Jeté! Karl Lagerfeld Designs Ballet Costumes

My posts about Karl Lagerfeld are much sparser than they used to be. At one time I joked that I should call my blog 'Dresses and Kaiser Karl'. I think after the Diet Coke butler everything else has been a bit anti-climactic. But I always enjoy seeing him in action and the BBC has filmed his final fitting for the costumes he designed to mark the centenary of the legendary dance group Ballets Russes.

I have two questions: First, the male dancers must have special inserts for their pants, right? There's a shaped and padded consistency to that bulge that just can't be natural. Second, what do you call a male ballerina? A ballerino?

Check out the moves at the end of their performance. Even more impressive than what I saw in my hip hop class yesterday.

Lagerfeld Returns Coco To Venice (in spirit anyway)

Venice was one of Coco's most beloved cities, as Karl Lagerfeld reminded us in his usual didactive manner, "...Let’s not forget that Coco Chanel came back to Venice for 10 years," referring to her decade of annual visits for inspiration as well as holiday. And so the historic Italian city was chosen as the starting point for the Chanel Cruise 2010 collection as well as host and backdrop for the show.

I must add that according to WWD, Karl made his comments while wearing A ROYAL BLUE JACKET with his white shirt and skinny black pants! I have to see a photo of this to believe it.

Oh look! Here's one now:

Guess it's true! That's Tatjiana Patitz behind him, fulfilling the Supermodel guest appearance role. (I 'got' all of the other Supers, but I just never got her. She just didn't come through as Supermodel like the others did for me.)

According to Female First, Lady Amanda Harlech - Lagerfeld's longtime personal and professional muse 'got stung in the eye by a mosquito' and spent the evening blinking uncontrollably. So things like that do happen to other people - it's not just me?

Oh right, the point of this post! There were certain looks that were very Chanel 1920s and 30s, complete with waved bobs, silent film starlet make-up and some of the most gorgeous dresses I've ever seen - lots of lace, decorative prints, bold use of colour and that lushness Chanel is known for:

Photos: Davide Maestri

A Visit to Coco's House

I still have loads of photos from Paris and I'm bringing them out here and there. These are from my visit to the original Chanel boutique on Rue Cambon (just before eating the macarons). They were promoting their sunglasses, in case that wasn't obvious. Lunettes. I love the one with the kid flying by on his skateboard. Nice juxtoposition with the valet/greeter/security/polite intimidator.

Chanel, Show Us Your Knits

The soft knits with girlie details are what I love most about recent Chanel collections, especially the ruffled creations in pale pink as revealed in Tuesday's Paris show (no, I wasn't at that one. One day...). Lara Stone may look annoyed but inside she is giggling with glee to be outfitted in the sartorial equivalent of cotton candy (they call cotton candy Barbapapa in Paris! Hee hee!).

Okay, I'd feel a bit silly walking out the door in a pink knitted ensemble consisting of a jumper, cape, fingerless gloves, tights and leg warmers (love the detail on those) but I still feel all giddy when I look at it. And I'd still play dress-up at home.

At least Karl Lagerfeld knew not to add a matching boater hat, which we see below and works nicely (in the Chanel context, anyway). There are arm warmers over tweed and dressed-up elbows - I love the knitted cuffs and collar with bow detail on the right, easy to DIY, too:

 

This scarf tied in a bow and that sweater/jacket - you are killing me, Karl. Who made that sweater?? And over-knee leg warmers - a softer alternative to the season's most lusted after style of boot? Will we see this on the street? I saw a young girl wearing fluffy (maybe mohair) baby blue leg warmers on Rue St-Michel today and she looked adorable. But will they translate on the big girls?

And look how this sweater dress is finished with the jagged knit trimmed with a gauzy band, I wondered if it was chiffon but it seems to have the texture of knit - can the knitwear experts tell us how this was done? Jen? Cynthia?

Photos: Marcio Madeira

 

Papier Couture

Karl Lagerfeld wiped his slate for his spring 09 Haute Couture collection and opted to start with "a clean sheet of paper." In the end, paper was the star of the show and white was the colour of the day. Models wore intricate, cut-out flower headpieces (credit goes to Lagerfeld find Kamo - a Japanese hairdresser whose scissors work magic on paper as well as hair), and even the room was adorned - there were laser-cut paper roses and camellias on the pillars, tables and the staircase the models used to make their entrance.

I read that paper is actually woven into the fabric of the dresses and when Lagerfeld was asked if they could be drycleaned he replied "I'm afraid not." Now I can't find the source to review it, no matter how many ways I've Googled it. But I'm sure I didn't imagine it. That would be a very specific delusion and not even I am that mad.

Either way, the dress above and to the right looks to me as if it is made of paper - the very pulpy, thick and textured kind which names escapes me - which appears to be molded. The stiffness of it also reminds me of a fine papier mâché. The sharp cut of the V detail on the neckline working with the sculpted inverted V of the skirt is the clincher for me, it's by far my favourite of the 65-piece collection.

The fashion editors are calling this the best case going forward for the survival of haute couture. Imagine fashion without this? Imagine fashion without Karl Lagerfeld? Happy place. Happy place.

From Russia Avec Amour

After Karl Lagerfeld debuted his silent film about the early years of Coco Chanel's life Wednesday night in Paris, models took the runway for Chanel's annual Métiers d'Art show. This year it was a tribute to Russia, a place that was close to Coco's heart and is a source of great inpsiration for Lagerfeld: "I love Imperial Russia, from Catherine the Great to Fabergé. I love constructivism, of course. And I love Russian folklore, which is very special. What was fun was to mix it all."

Chanel collections are always exquisite, but this is almost too much to handle. The detail! It has everything - tulle, brocade, embroidery, fur trims, fluffy knits, metallics, brocades, soft ruffles, folk prints - yet it's unmistakeably Chanel through and through. I looove the shimmery tights in muted metallics. I would kill for the coat dress in the ninth photo below - look at the hem detail and how the sleeves are finished. I could live in sub-zero weather for a while if I could dress like this! (Too bad I'd only be wearing it inside...)

Source: WWD

Federer Ousted by the Über Elegant Karl Lagerfeld

First, Roger Federer had to deal with losing his ranking as the world's #1 tennis player, and now, he's found himself to be second best once again, in the domain of ELEGANCE. That's right, Spain finds this to be an important attribute in a man, and as such, Marca has voted him the second (oh, that stings) 'most elegant' man in the world. Karl Lagerfeld won top honours, likely thanks to his technique with a silk handheld fan, expert wearing of a ponytail, sexy pout, and the way his leather racing gloves caress his skilled hands of tender, white milkiness. And he does have a way of gliding across a floor whilst keeping his svelte body tight in his form-fitting monochrome suit. Ahhh.....what were we talking about?

Oh right. So, I guess the softly spoken Roger bringing finesse back to the game of tennis and dressing extremely well off the court just wasn't quite enough. Somehow, I think he can live with this one.

Source: Polite Applause

Karl Lagerfeld Silently Honours Coco in Film

Karl Lagerfeld's directorial debut in silent filmmaking screens Wednesday night in Paris, an homage to Gabrielle 'Coco' Chanel's early years. Who knows more about the legendary designer than Karl? He became somewhat of an Andy Warhol, casting those close to him in the 10-minute film (but I think it's safe to assume the similarities end there. Warhol's movies were beyond creepy). Lagerfeld entourage fixtures model Brad Koenig and bodyguard/private secretary Sébastien Jondeau feature as characters, and model Edita Vilkeviciute plays young Coco Chanel from 1913, when she first set up shop. Karl didn't trust extras who "don’t know how to touch the clothes,” so he got workers in the Chanel atelier to play parts as workers in the fashion house.

Lagerfeld - not surprisingly - appears to view his project as the Chanel film, the one that counts. "Everybody this year has decided to make a movie about Chanel, and you know their historical worth is not always too exact," he chides.

So, Shirley Maclaine playing Coco in the Lifetime production doesn't cut it with Karl? Incroyable!

Update: Here's a teaser

Source: WWD

Merry, Chanel-wearing Puppets at Printemps

One of the best things about the holidays is the fantastical, magical shop window displays. Imagine what Chanel might conjure for the Paris department store Printemps: articulated puppets geared up in quilted, metallic outfits à la the 2.55 bag, dancing in a garden of golden flowers, perhaps? Love the matching fringed bobs. And they answer to the name of 'Coco'. Of course.

Here's a man who is famous for his magnificent window displays, the lovely Simon Doonan, creative director at Barneys. Below, he talks about his Andy Warhol installation and how he approaches the creation of his displays (watch for a snippet of the Saks window with a doll that looks as if it's about to throw up):

Barney's Andy Warhol Window Display
by rocketboom

Happy Friday: Little Karl in Lederhosen!

Cathryn Horan of The New York Times posted this rare gem of a photo on her blog. Does that coy grin look familiar? How about the knowing pose? The inherent confidence? No? Imagine the hand is gloved in cut-out leather, the collar is stiffer and higher and the hair is white and tied back. You got it, this tiny fashion genius in the making is Karl Lagerfeld - IN LEDERHOSEN! You know, I did wonder whether this 'costume' is something only seen at Oktoberfest, and whether Germans actually really wear it (like Mounties in Canada - they don't work in that getup, you know!). Turns out, they do! Or, at least they did.

I am dying over the fact that he's wearing a white dress shirt and tie under the braces of the lederhosen. As a baby he probably scribbled a collar and tie on his onesies and requested Diet Coke in his bottle.

Via Catwalk Queen

Karl Lagerfeld Paints a 'Secret Ball'

Continuing on with features from British Vogue's Fantastic Fashion Fantasy issue, Karl Lagerfeld treats us to a series of paintings in which he imagines events (with the Batman movies in mind, it would seem) at the most exclusive party of the year - a ball hosted by an unnamed Russian woman in honour of her billionaire husband. There was no press, no red carpet, no charities involved, and the guest list remains a mystery.

"Hairstylist Katsuya Kamo has designed a veiled headpiece similar
to those he has made for Junya Watanabe. The guest has topped
this with a vintage diamond headpiece, believed to be set with
emeralds from the treasury of Tsar Alexander II"


"The male guests are all in Tom Ford tails, though these two
gentlemen have added Batman-style masks. Their leather gloves are by
Causse. She is in a Marios Schwab jacket, a Louis Vuitton headpiece
and carries an Alexander McQueen Faberge bag from this season"


"A masked guest dressed in colourful Tao"


"She is in gold Givenchy with another Kamo headpiece.
The Asian gentleman wears a vintage Cartier headpiece
of emerald, diamonds and feathers in his turban"




"This guest accessorises her pink Giles ensemble with Chanel lace
gloves and a 1912 Cartier bandeau with a huge sapphire. Her Cartier
necklace of the same year was bought at the Paris Biennale in
September 2008. Her companion is a distinguished gentleman with a
black monocle, who reminds Lagerfeld of someone now dead"




"The youngest boy in the room is claimed by this guest,
in Alexander McQueen"


"This Gareth Pugh-clad woman is accompanied by a man
disguised as Heath Ledger's malevolent Joker"

Karl Lagerfeld Delivers His Fashion Manifesto

Karl Lagerfeld delivered an astute dissection of the fashion industry on Thursday as he introduced Harold Koda - a renowned fashion scholar and the head of the Metropolitan Museum of Art's Costume Institute - at the Fashion Group International’s Night of Stars. WWD provided excerpts from Lagerfeld's handwritten manifesto:

• “There is a strange and invisible borderline when fashion is not only fashion, but becomes the most evident and most easily visible expression of an area.”

• “Fashion as history is beyond fashion, and it is not only limited to clothes.”

• “It is difficult to imagine today that people who shaped the fashion of the first 50 years of the 20th century never had an exhibition in a great museum during their lifetime….Designers (called “couturieres”) were happy to dress people (mostly women of society). They designed with the icons of their times in mind — before that word was used as we use it today. They had muses then….For Chanel, it was simpler. She was only her own inspiration (what I admire).

• “The face of fashion is now in the hands of a small group of big companies and they often own several important and influential fashion brands. They also help to make it possible for museums to stage important shows.”

• “Fashion is today also about big shows like Hollywood productions. In the past, designers made fashion history by dressing people who had a real life in those clothes. We should learn a lot from that. Red carpet (another invention of our times) helps to distort fashion by giving it a fake and too glamorous face.”

• “The great designers of the past were certainly not humble people, but they worked in the days before media buzz. What helps most of us a lot in a way, promotion (and self-promotion), did not exist before. It’s also something that makes our approach to fashion different (too different?). But what will survive from all that?”

• “Fashion is about the harmony between utility and beauty. But the sense of beauty in fashion changes quickly — nearly as quickly as fashion itself. Some people tell us that utility is itself the essence of beauty. That may be OK for sportswear (such an important part of fashion today and not always the best). I think there has to be another dimension to it, and Harold is our visionaire in that area. You don’t design a dress only because it’s easy to wear. It should be — but that reason alone could make fashion a bore.

• “A new fashion can appear having the same origins in inspiration and admiration in the past of fashion. The danger is for us designers to be too exposed to the seduction of the past.”

• “It is difficult to work out your own vision of fashion without being haunted by the beauty of the work of the people before us — even if they were also not immune to all kind of influences and inspirations to achieve a strong vision and a unique style.”

Photo: Kristen Somody Whalen

A Moving, Global Tribute to a Bag - Yes, a Bag

Photo: Todd Eberle for Vanity Fair

What do you think it would take to warrant a celebration hosted by the world's greatest cities, inspire artists to create works in tribute of you, and see thousands turn up to join in the collective praise being showered upon you? Significant contributions to reducing poverty? Hunger? Slavery? No. How about simply being the Chanel 2.55 handbag as it turns 50 years old?

This is the most coveted handbag in the world, mostly because it is the most famous handbag in the world. Sure, I would love one. Because of its beauty? It's chicness? No, because it's a Chanel 2.55, if I'm being honest. It's the must-have piece of any fashion-loving girl's collection, simply for its reputation alone. It's a part of fashion history. Some clever marketing combined with genuine adoration of the quilted, gold-chained, and somewhat matronly shoulder bag have ensured it is the one that all the others aspire to become, and all the ladies desire to carry, and it will remain that way for a long, long time.

The entrance to the pavillion

The flying saucer-shaped exhibition space is hugely impressive, a design that pushes technology to its limits (and surely eclipses the guest of honour). It's a moving, nomadic art pavillion designed by renowned architect Zaha Hadid, who Karl Lagerfeld handpicked for the project which is meant to bring together art and architecture. There's far too much detail to go into here - it's an astounding structure made of materials never used for buildings before - but you can read about it at the Zara Hadid blog.

It's in New York's central park now, and is coming to London, but I'm hearing both November and May, so we'll just have to see which it is. If it coincides with the Frock Me vintage fair I'm there! (Are you with me, Julie?)

Here's a look at the interior seating areas:

Photo: Todd Eberle for Vanity Fair

Fabrice Hayber’s Comfortable, an assembly of pieces by the artist inspired by Chanel products (that teddy bear looks like a gimp and really creeps me out. Awesome swings, though):

Photo: Todd Eberle for Vanity Fair

An aerial view of the pavillion:

What Goes Into Making a Chanel Haute Couture Coat?

Haute couture is the crème de la crème of luxury fashion. Made to order by a mere handful of approved design houses that adhere to the rigid requirements as defined by the Syndical Chamber for Haute Couture in Paris, the garments can cost upwards of $100,000. There are about 2,000 haute couture clients in the world, and of them only 200 or so are considered to be regular buyers (the rest just wait for the sales. Ha.). Of course, Chanel is one of the makers of these coveted works of art that so few are fortunate enough to own.

So, what goes into making an haute couture garment? To start, it's the uniqueness of design, the expert workmanship and the materials are of the highest quality. They are sewn, embroidered and beaded by hand, and several hundred hours can be required to complete one piece (not including smoke breaks. I joke - I imagine there's a daily sniff-inspection to keep the garments smelling like a cloud in paradise).

Chanel offered a glimpse into how one of the coats from their Fall 2008 Haute Couture collection was created (the final runway look pictured above). This exquisite piece of art-as-outerware took specially-skilled artisans three hundred painstaking hours to make. Here's what happened after Karl Lagerfeld handed his sketch of the herringbone coat to the premier of the atelier:

                      Step 1: The herringbone patterns are drawn on muslin

Step 2: The herringbone patterns are reproduced on fabric


  Step 3: For the sleeves, the tweed herringbone designs

                     are placed on satin.                                       

Step 4: The sleeves are then transferred to a wooden form

                              

                    Step 5: The tweed herringbone is placed by hand on the
                    satin to ensure a perfect fit.

                     Step 6: Rigorous checking is carried out during the
                     mounting of the pieces, to ensure the proportions are
                     true to the design.

Step 7: The lining is affixed inside the coat.

         Step 8: Shoes are selected to go with the coat. The shoes are handmade
         in Massaro ateliers.

Step 9: The all-important fittings, during which final tiny but

                sometimes crucial alterations are made.

   Step 10: The look is ready and the model (lucky Kim Noorda) is prepped backstage at the Grand Palais in Paris before Chanel’s haute couture Fall 2008 show

Here are a few of my favourite pieces from the show:

Production photos via The Star Malaysia

Madness in Our House of Chanel

Well, the Chanel show was just as grand as you'd expect from Karl Lagerfeld. He opened with the song Our House from Madness, an odd choice, and one that didn't really work as far as the senses are concerned (see video, do you agree?), but was obviously handpicked to fit his concept. Lagerfeld wanted to recreate the days of old where shows were viewed in-house at the original Chanel boutique at 31 Rue Cambon, so he brought it to the Grande Palais in the form of a life-size facade of the building and a street runway.

There was a bit of goofiness in the show - a model wearing a swimsuit sported a pair of wraparound sunglasses with plastic sideburns attached. The model walking alongside her couldn't seem to hide her smirk, you know she was glad it wasn't her.

Closing the show were five male models who strutted down the 'street', dressed in slight variations of young Karls. Come on guys, you know you want to rock this. Do it, please (is that Wilmer Valderrama on the right?):

 

Here are my picks from the women's looks (I'm guessing the guys' thing was a novelty Karl did to amuse himself). A new hosiery look debuted here - half sheer and half semi-opaque black tights that gave the classic tweeds a young, fresh update, and looked plain weird with other outfits. The collection has been said to be a bit all over the place, while other fashion reviewers raved about the range of inspirations. I liked it. I didn't love it. But that's okay, there will be another show coming along in no time, and 75 year-old Karl Lagerfeld has no plans whatsoever to retire. Thank god.

 

Photos: Style.com

Karl Lagerfeld Saddles Up His Models for Paris

Karl Lagerfeld showed his namesake collection in Paris Wednesday, and it didn't rival the impact of his impressive show for Fendi in Milan last week. But then again, his duties for Fendi and Chanel require efforts that will elicit the biggest oohs and ahhs and ensure continued success for the long running fashion houses, so maybe it's okay that he sends out models looking like female versions of him for his own label. Hard to believe, but most of the clothes were black, or black and white, rounded out by a few silver and navy looks. And a few crisp shirts served as a further reminder of who's behind it all, if the bag with his face on it got by anyone. The dominant accessory was huge, black leather belts that kind of resembled saddles. Pleated peplums in what I'm guessing is organza and dresses in a leaf print softed things up a bit. And there were some curious black ornaments on some of the girls' arms, necks and throats. To be honest, regarding Kaiser Karl, I'm really just waiting for Chanel.

Photos: Dominique Maitre

Karl Lagerfeld Slaps Tom Ford, Loves His Suits

 

In an interview for Time magazine's fashion feature America: Conqueror of the Global Menswear Market, Tom Ford talks about how he filled a gap in the menswear market, wants to focus on his personal relationships in the coming years, and would like to dress Prince Harry, who he thinks "has a great look." The article includes a portrait of Ford photographed by Karl Lagerfeld.

Click to the next item in the feature and you'll find Karl Lagerfeld discussing Tom Ford's suits while sitting alongside his younger counterpart. Sure, hearing Ford describe how he's created a hybrid suit with an English cut and Italian construction is interesting and all (well, not really), but the video of the interview, lead by Time's Kate Betts, is well worth watching. When Lagerfeld refers to his hatred of being touched by strangers (and therefore dreads a suit fitting), Ford reaches over and lays his hand on his chest and shoulder, resulting in a swift and hard slap square on the thigh.

See the video here, and try not to get turned on. If you do, don't admit it to anyone.

Karl Lagerfeld's Spring Bag Collection Preview

I really should re-name this blog Dresses and Karl Lagerfeld. Well, another day, another news bit about Kaiser Karl. Right in line with the NY spring shows is a preview of his Spring 2009 handbag collection for his namesake brand. His press release states the line is "inspired by the designer’s passion for modern architecture and photography, and especially by his spirited lifestyle and iconic personality." Some of the styles feature handles with cut-outs the shape of Lagerfeld's ever-present sunglasses, which I guess is a literal interpretation of the "iconic personality" part of the inspiration.

The collection includes 42 designs which were approved by KL himself (well, I should hope so, his name is on them!). Prices range from 'you may be able to afford the plainest and smallest one' to 'you'd better start selling drugs'. Or, in currency, $585 to $3000 U.S.

Is it my sluggishishness for having eaten 'The Feast' at an Indian restaurant tonight or are these bags really rather 'meh'?

Source

Karl, Will You Accept One More 'Happy Birthday' Wish?

Dear Karl Lagerfeld,

Here's wishing you a wonderful day, however old you are. It's a shame you didn't have kids, so that they could have kids, because you would have made the wickedest Großvater ever (in theory, not so much in practice, let's be honest). I can see why your pride grows daily - you look way better now than when you were younger. Waaaay better. And isn't that what really matters?

Viel Liebe,
Denise

Karl Lagerfeld Prefers You Not Too Smart and Definitely Not Stinky

Scott Athorne interviewed the ALWAYS interesting Karl Lagerfeld for the Times' Sunday magazine. As expected, it's a very entertaining read.

Of particular note:

He doesn't like intellectuals: "I want to know everything, but I’m not an intellectual, and I don’t like their company. I’m the most superficial man on Earth.” (Explains his keeping company with Lindsay Lohan a few years ago).

Journalists are fine. But not if: "...they are really stupid, or if they’ve got bad breath, or if they smell. Yesterday [at the Chanel couture show] I had a problem. I said, ‘I’m sorry, you’ve got to tell this woman that she needs to be taken away. Her smell is not possible.’” (My most humble apologies, Monsieur Lagerfeld. I was starving so I grabbed a Royale with Cheese before the show.)

Other interesting tidbits include how his mother sent his sisters away to boarding school because she thought they were 'boring', but he (fist pounding on the table) WAS NOT!; he doesn't take himself too seriously (obviously) or see fashion as art, and says that if you dwell on the past then "you might as well commit suicide immediately." I gather he's not on Facebook, then?

Forget Sentiment, the Price Tag on Your Teddy is What Matters

Karl Lagerfeld has filled a gap in the market, that being a lack of luxury teddy bears at an appropriately exclusive price. (I hate it when I can only find teddies for $20.) The designer's $1500 limited edition Mini-Mich (only 2,500 were produced) is made of alpaca, comes with tight, slick black pants and that collar. This little Teddybär is available at Neiman Marcus next month.

I would love to see the confused looks on the faces of the kids who get these as gifts. There's nothing worse than a toy that thinks it's cooler than you.

Photo from W

Daphne Guinness On The State of Fashion

Yesterday, my google alert pointed me to an article on FT.com, (London's Financial Times) written by one of the UK's most illustrious fashion icons Daphne Guinness, which I was going to introduce and link to. Which is what I'm doing right now. Except that Susie Bubble covered it already - Ms. Guinness had mentioned her blog StyleBubble as an example of the significant influence blogs are exerting on the fashion industry - and she summed up the article so well I'm going to use what she said:

"...a nice stance on experimentation in street style being influential whilst at the same time lauding couture for propelling fashion's artistry levels and accusing the 'middle ground' of being diluted."

So, if that interests you, here's a good, quick read from the woman who owns possibly the most covetable fashion collection on the planet (including many jaw-dropping pieces of haute couture). More importantly, she has the taste, culture and knowledge to back it up, which makes it more a collection of art and therefore separates it - worlds apart - from the empty and obscene displays of football salary wealth more commonly seen these days.

Oh right, the article: Karl Lagerfeld and Grand Theft Auto

Photo is Daphne Guinness in the March 2008 British Vogue. To read more about this fascinating fashion stylist and producer (yes, I like her) read Times Online's My Life in Fashion: Daphne Guinness and her obsession with armour

B-Boy Karl Works it in Harpers Bazaar

Karl Lagerfeld revealed to Harper's Bazaar "Believe it or not, I love rap." I believe it, Karl. With your dozens of loaded up iPODS and the badass attitude that scored you the gig in Grand Theft Auto IV, it's not that inconceivable.

The magazine's September issue features a spread on designers dressing as fantasy characters. Others include Giorgio Armani as Fred Astaire, Roberto Cavalli doing Rhett Butler, and Michael Kors channelling James Stewart's L.B. Jeffries character from Alfred Hitchcock's Rear Window. It appears that Lagerfeld rocking the Phat Farm jeans as a rapper is the most interesting character by far, which is owed to his being such a great one himself. What would we do without him? 

I wish the photo was bigger, or that I'd remembered to pick up a copy before leaving Canada, so I could closely inspect what is going on under his jacket - do I see his signature earlobe-grazing collar peeking out? Pure Karl.

I can't wait for the Jay-Z/Timbaland/Karl Lagerfeld collaboration.

Source

Lagerfeld Inspired by Organ Pipes and Fluoro Safety Vests

Karl Lagerfeld's inspiration for Chanel's Fall Winter 2008 Haute Couture show in Paris is fairly obvious, as the installation of massive metallic organ pipe structures at the centre of the circular catwalk at the Grand Palais would reveal. The full view of the display makes me think of a futuristic city arising from the post-apocalyptic rubble of a lost civilisation in a sci-fi movie. The show, the clothes (of course) and even the music are awesome, though you wouldn't know it from the look of sheer boredom on the spectators' faces (shall we assume the heat deflated their enthusiasm? This show could have been held on the surface of the sun and I would have been there with a goofy grin plastered on my face).

You can view the stunningly beautiful show in its entirety below. And (not) oddly, Lagerfeld takes the catwalk for his 'bow' at the end with a man wearing the fluoro-yellow safety vest that he is helping promote driver-compliance for in France (I love how he had someone wear it for him):

Update: Reader Mike Ryan was asking what the main song in the show was, it's Comme dans un reve by Seelenluft (no doubt handpicked by Karl Lagerfeld who is really up on his tunes - and kind of like Aqua on tranquilizers):

D'oh! I Missed The Simpsons at Colette

Let me clarify - I missed The Simpsons at Colette by about a year. So I'm not breaking any news here (unless you're easy on "currentness" being the criteria for news). I stumbled upon these photos of Karl Lagerfeld, Marc Jacobs and Alber Elbaz posing with Simpsons illustrations and immediately panicked, asking the world in general "How? How? How did I miss this episode of the Simpsons?" I was going to blame it on UK TV being a bit behind Fox's scheduling as very few U.S. shows run simultaneously in Brit-land (hmm... although I would have been in Canada then, as I am here now, as we are for the good part of every summer). 

Anyway, I was relieved to find out this was from from an exhibit at Paris' Colette (you must look at their website, it's so French in the way that Daft Punk is French - I guarantee you haven't seen anything quite like it). The illustrations were from a Harper's Bazaar feature from August 07 called The Simpsons Go to Paris with Linda Evangelista (illustrations by Matt Groening and artwork by Julius Priete). Incredible model she was, don't you think? One of the best ever? (And she's nabbed a most-coveted Prada campaign at 43!) She went to my high school in St. Catharines. I didn't know her, though - she left grade 13 when I was coming into grade 9. In the yearbook she had massive, frizzy hair. Look who's laughing now.

So then I was left feeling dumb and out of the loop for missing that issue. I really must pay more attention to Harpers Bazaar - though I have to say I'm really tired of US magazines putting over-exposed, American actresses on their covers, photoshopped to a level of flawless smoothness my almost three year-old daughter can't rival, and trying to look all modelly. (Like, their current cover is Jessica Biel. I'm not buying that!)

 

This display isn't creepy at all:

Source

Karl Lagerfeld Shows Off Cool New Robot Hand

Kaiser Karl recently appeared in public with what looks to be a space-age robot hand, replacing his right human hand (except for the fingertips which he apparently opted to keep). Whispers amongst fashion insiders reveal that the hand desperately required radical measures to repair what had sadly become a gnarled and wizzened appendage, due to years of obsessive self-cooling with a dainty hand-held fan and gripping ice-cold cans of Diet Coke (brilliantly remedied by his employment of a beverage butler, if only a little too late).

Sources say that this is the first phase toward a complete transformation, which we could all see coming, as Mr. Lagerfeld's face and ears are the only flesh he will now expose to the world (and sometimes that little window cut-out in his racing gloves). Speculation is rampant that his morph of choice is the tres apropo Cylon - the bio-mechanical, bad-ass beings from the TV series Battlestar Galactica. Watch for his grand debut at Paris Fashion Week,  A/W 2008.

Understated Dubai Will Blossom with Help from Karl Lagerfeld

Dubai has finally overcome its modest approach to living with plans for a fashion island or 'Isla Moda' as it will be known, by hiring Karl Lagerfeld to design 80 residential homes.

The man behind Chanel has high hopes for his influence on the project, saying, "Dubai is a fashion bud on the verge of blossoming into the next fashion hub of the world. Isla Moda has tremendous potential to be the style icon of the future and I intend on driving the island to high style stardom."

The first of five designers handpicked to take on the role of Mr. Brady, Lagerfeld's contribution will include a "limited edition line." In case houses in the land of the ludicrously wealthy designed by arguably the world's greatest living fashion designer wasn't already exclusive enough.

With the blazing temperatures and all the water about, I wonder if Karl will be tempted to revive his sizzling 1970 beach look? (You should see the full shot. I'd have shown it but I didn't know if you could handle the sexy.)

Source

Blooming Marvelous! A post eventually about 'The Most Beautiful Flower'

One of the first things I saw upon waking this morning (I starting writing this Saturday) was Saturday's edition of London's the Financial Times newspaper sitting on the dining room table at my mother-in-law's in Toronto. I was immediately curious.Why? How? Seeing 'FT Weekend' splashed across the front page, my first thought was 'Fashion Television Weekend? Could it be? On broadsheet newsprint?' (Canadians will well know the long-running CITY-TV Jeanne Beker-hosted fashion programme.)

Okay, it was 8 am and I'd been a bridesmaid at my (gorgeous) friend's (gorgeous) wedding the night before so the brain wasn't fully recharged (actually I whimpered pathetically when my daughter shouted 'GET UP MUMMY!' in my face for the ninth and loudest time). And the 'FT' font was the same (kind of) and if you're in advertising or marketing you know how powerful a font can be (immediate association with a familiar brand, so I can hardly be laughed at. A broad smirk and raised eyebrow is warranted, however). And I'm only in Toronto twice a year, so hey, you never know. Weirder things have happened (eg. The Jerry Springer Show was made into an opera in London and a roaring success at that). And I've been busier than a thong-maker before Pride Weekend since arriving so there hasn't been time for my daily fashion fixes and I was experiencing withdrawal symptoms.

So to be fair (what I prefer in place of harsh criticism) - it wasn't really so much a dunce moment as wishful thinking (I can believe that because I want to). How nice it would have been on an otherwise miserable morning to have sections and sections of fashion so vast it would require holding it all up between spanned arms, just to take it all in? (W magazine comes close to matching that description but that wasn't on the table.)

Well, turns out having the Financial Times right there was a good thing after all. For one, it was nice to see what's up in the UK - my primary home. More importantly, there was a piece in the Gardens section by Robin Lane Fox about the ''mixed weather" in the UK (is there any other kind??) giving the blooming season "it's best start in years." Included was a photo of the Paeonia Kelway's Glorious, what Fox believes to be 'the most beautiful flower in the world'. I really wish he'd posted the photo along with the editorial on the FT website because I can't find one as extroardinary. He describes this herbaceous peony as "very special; a free-flowering double whiteish form with a red mark in its middle and the most delicate blush of lilac-pink developing on the outer petals as it ages."

When I saw it, I wanted to eat it. The petals appear almost translucent, and opal in colour. The allure of the double flower is its lush texture, the ruffles upons ruffles which remind me of a Chanel haute couture gown - Lagerfeld has a way of envisioning the textured, feminine details of his garments in such a way that the execution resembles this particular lushness of the double peony. That's what I think, anyway.

Oddly, in every description I find of Paeonia Kelway's Glorious there is no mention of this 'delicate blush of lilac-pink' (the photos I've included depict the beauty of the double flower but the colour isn't anything special) and there is mention of a creamy centre, missing from Fox's photo and description.

So, why is his flower of the same name different? Are there several varieties of the Kelway's Glorious? ((Maybe, but I haven't been able to find evidence of this). Robin Lane Fox, if you have googled yourself and have come across this post and you don't mind admitting that you have done so, would you be a dear and explain it so maybe one day I might be able to see this 'most beautiful flower in the world' in person?

Yes, this does matter to me! Flowers are beautiful and they make me happy. Colour, texture, aroma - what more could you want? And they work so well in fashion. There's the literal approach - I love corsages and I understand the floral pattern trend, it can be pretty, fun and flirty. Then there's Lagerfeld's exquisite interpretation of the floral texture using fabric and it is - whether the inspiration be conscious or not - undeniably brilliant.

And shame on Dolce and Gabbana! With the endless inspiration on this planet, they were recently found guilty of copying four floral patterns belonging to the late Ken Scott for a collection in 2001 (peonies were used heavily in his patterns). Here's one of Scott's gorgeous cotton coats in his Guigno pattern:

Now go get yourself a beautiful bouquet, or even better - send one to someone who will really appreciate it!

Karl Lagerfeld Does Ugly to Save French Drivers

Kaiser Karl sacrificed chic for safety by donning a flourescent yellow vest (although flouro is big for S/S 2008) for France's new road safety campaign.

The caption reads, "It's yellow, it's ugly, it doesn't go with anything, but it could save your life."

While Karl's endorsement could greatly increase compliance amongst the drivers and cyclists soon required to wear it (drivers must carry it in their vehicle and use it every time they pull over with an emergency), I think it's a bit funny that he's wearing his signature dark sunglasses which might very well prove to be a liability in a night time road crisis. (It seems the last time anyone saw his eyes was the 70s.)

As for the ever-present racing gloves? Relevant, for once.

Source

Karl Lagerfeld's Muse To Get the Légion d'honneur

Inès de La Fressange, one-time muse to Karl Lagerfeld, occasional designer and now spokesperson for Roger Vivier, will be receiving the Légion d'honneur in Paris next week. The award was instituted in 1802 by Napoleon Bonaparte as the highest honour the Republic could bestow. Who else but France would choose a style icon as its most worthy recipient?

You have to love de la Fressange, who at 50 takes an endearing and refreshing view on older women's obsesssion with looking 30. As told to Lisa Armstrong of Times Online: “A lot of women stick with that because it was their favourite age for some reason. I don't really think like that. I mean, when a man tells you you look good, it's not because you don't have any wrinkles.” I think that's true. But women do that to themselves not to impress men so much as other women, non? Hence the importance of being comfortable in your own skin, which she obviously is - she's not competing with any woman.

And only an icon so deserving of her status could dispense such sensible fashion advice (she knows exactly what she's doing):

Keep an element of punk in your wardrobe - always. Even Chanel was a bit punk; the way she wore jersey and fake jewellery was a rebellion in her day.

Don't be afraid to make mistakes. If you have never put a foot wrong, you're probably too set in your ways.

Look for alternative ways of expressing what you feel: you may not want to wear a fluorescent dress, but how about a pair of tangerine patent shoes?

Dressing head-to-toe in expensive clothes can be as big a mistake as always wearing cheap ones. At every age it's far more effective to mix things up. I like it best when it's not obvious where my clothes come from.

Be open-minded about new labels. It's great to have tried-and-tested ones, but thanks to my two daughters I'm also a regular at H&M, Gap, Isabel Marant, Aspesi and Vanessa Bruno.

Can I be so bold as to add one? Smile. Inès has the most infectious smile - it's not at all 'modelly', it's from the inside out, through her eyes. And thanks to that, she'll endure indefinitely.  

Photo: Stéphane Feugère/Oeil de Vogue (France)

A Narcissistic Token of Gratitude

A week can't go by without a tidbit of news about our favourite mad genius, Karl Lagerfeld.

After showing the Chanel Cruise 2009 collection at the legendary Art Deco Raleigh Hotel in Miami, he thanked the staff for their hospitality with signed self-portraits from the show (he is discreetly holding a self-clicker in gloved hand). Some of the photos featured a backdrop of Lagerfeld's synchronised swimmers who did the sideways dive into the pool - all wearing Chanel swimcaps of course - spelling out the brand with their suits before forming the double-C for the grand finale. What a show!

We're able to see the photos thanks to Jauretsi from StarworksNY.com who had the good fortune to see them in person and snapped them to share. Thanks, J!

I joke about the narcissism, they are fabulous photos. And what else would we expect from Kaiser Karl?

(But how hot must he have been with his uniform of earlobe grazing collar, jacket and tie, and signature racing gloves?? Oh, the poor soul who had to burn wash his underpants.)

Karl Lagerfeld Offers Solution to Miami's Gun Deficit

 Karl Lagerfeld recently debuted the Chanel Resort 2009 collection in Miami and it featured a curious piece of footwear, the 'Miami Vice' pistol-heeled shoe. The killer heel was inspired by an image of a gun Lagerfeld saw (rumoured to be model Freja Beha-Erichsen's tattoo as seen on the Dior Cruise 2009 catwalk, real-or-not debate ongoing) which he then gave to shoe designer Laurence Decade. And bang, there you have it.

I assume Karl's having a laugh with a pun here but who knows, he is drawn to the darker side of things according to some statements he made about the video game Grand Theft Auto (he appears digitally in the fourth version as a DJ):

"I prefer to be in a video game than to play with it. I would love to be a very nasty, politically incorrect character."

Just one thought about the shoe - probably not the best thing to bring along on holiday, airport security may not appreciate the humour.

 Freja and her 'tattoo'

My favourite non-ballistic looks from the collection:

  

Bienvenue Vanessa Paradis, So Long Kirsten Dunst

 

According to Women's Wear Daily, Vanessa Paradis is the new face of Miu Miu (YES!), replacing Kirsten Dunst. Vanessa will appear in the brand's upcoming fall campaign. Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott will be back to photograph the ads.

After having to endure Lindsay Lohan's mug in my favourite mags (never mind that Jessica Simpson was rumoured to have been the original, shocking choice for that campaign so we were screwed either way), I loudly applaud Miu Miu's return to collaborating with the innately and enduringly stylish, not to mention actually talented (does that matter any more?).

Vanessa has many times been the face of Chanel beginning at age 18 and more interestingly, was Calvin Klein's first choice for the 1992 campaign that made Kate Moss famous. Vanessa turned it down, and who knows if the name Kate Moss would mean anything to us today, had she not. She even got Johnny Depp in the end after Kate blew it. (Rumour has it she's still not over losing him. Ouch. I'm sorry but if she thinks hoovering lines with Pete Doherty, in her thirties, with a young daughter at home is time well spent, she never deserved him in the first place. There, I said it and I'll never mention it again).

Can't wait to see the new photos, I can read now my magazines without having to peer cautiously at the next page through my fingers.

Vanessa with good friend and occasional employer Karl Lagerfeld, creative director of Chanel (any opportunity to include a photo of Karl Lagerfeld should be eagerly seized upon):

Cherryfeld

A reader asked in the comments of a previous post, 'Did Karl Lagerfeld influence Don Cherry or was it the other way around?' Every time I see a photo of Lagerfeld I'm reminded of the colourful, amusing, wince-inducing CBC hockey commentator. They must be the only two people on the planet who wear collar styles such as these. Cherry has to be on his 50th tailor by now, I hear spontaneous retinal detachment claimed the other 49.

My guess is Lagerfeld wears those rigid, earlobe-grazing collars to hide neck waddle but Don Cherry, he's just mad. He's ensured, through his wardrobe, that he's the most interesting thing about hockey. Funny that, Karl is the most interesting thing about the fashion world. Never underestimate the power of eccentric personal style: Lagerfeld's ever-present white ponytail, the dark sunglasses at night, the racing gloves, and Cherry's capacity, through colossal (and intentional?) bad taste in suits, to make Herb Tarlek look like Tom Ford. Truly, forces to be reckoned with. Respect.

Karl Lagerfeld Brings 'Stilvoll' to Grand Theft Auto

The eagerly awaited Grand Theft Auto IV (due out Tuesday) has added a new character to its cast - the eccentric, monochromatic, self-fanning Karl Lagerfeld. The genius creative director of Chanel will not be participating in the great fun GTA is famous for: thieving cars, shooting people, dealing drugs and running over prostitutes, rather he'll be playing resident DJ, providing tracks the player can select as the soundtrack to their illicit rampage. I'm hotly anticipating a Kraftwerk, Rammstein, and KMFDM dominated set.

Spinning records can be hard, sweaty work (especially when doing it in a shirt that goes up to your earlobes), therefore Lagerfeld may require some refreshment. Can we expect his Diet Coke Butler will be making an appearance?

Everyone Should Have a Travelling Beverage Butler

What a sucker I am. All this time I've been buying my own Cokes and serving myself.

Karl Lagerfeld has the right idea - have your Diet Coke presented to you in the street, IN A CHALICE, and allow a grown man his dignity. His Diet Coke Butler looks prouder than the day he told his parents he was leaving for a career as K.L.'s ponytail checker.

(We know it's Diet Coke because that's all Karl drinks.)

Thanks to Towleroad for a good laugh.