The Swelle Life

Miu Miu "An Investigatation of Europe's Past" or, Some Cool Dresses

Miuccia Prada's spring RTW collection for Miu Miu is "an investigation of our history, of our European past." I can see influences, such as (what I'm guessing is) a take on the gladiator 'skirt', done halfway, hanging off the waist, and prints resembling Roman tiles (credit to Style.com for that one). A few dresses had puckered, tiered waists that would look a bit sloppy if one was bloated, or has a waist larger than 22 inches. But the mixing of prints on top and bottom with half-apron layering make for a cool outfit, and the two-tone belted dresses were adorable and chic at the same time. Do I earn credit for partaking in this history lesson?

The waist-enemy look (my nightmare):

Photos: Style.com

McQueen and Gaultier's Flapper for the Noughties

The Paris collections continued the Flapper trend that we've been seeing on the Spring RTW runways, with inventive approaches to fringe from Jean Paul Gaultier and Alexander McQueen. Gaultier went glam with metallics, lush boas and lingerie-inspired dresses (and above):

Alexander McQueen draped dip-dyed fringe with stunning results:



...and more drapery over an embroidered mesh bodice:

There were only two flapper-inspired looks from Lee McQueen but there is so much more worth mentioning - the sculpted silhouttes and regal details are pure McQueen:

This carried on the incredible gradient dresses that we saw for Fall:

 

Marc Jacobs Three for Three with Louis Vuitton

I was going to say Marc Jacobs scored a 'hat trick', but then re-thought the relevance of a hockey analogy. Doesn't quite fit. (I grew up in Canada in a family with three brothers, it slips out sometimes). I'm not sure how Marc Jacobs does it, Louis Vuitton was his third and final collection for Spring RTW 09 and it is said to have left everyone in the industry excited about fashion again after a tiring four + weeks of collections in four countries. He and Karl Lagerfeld must have a chip in their brains enabling them to focus on delivering the essence of three distinct brands in so little time.

I have to admit, I've lagged on my Paris posts because after following New York, London and Milan, I'm pooped! I love what I see but I need a break. It's not you, Paris, it's me. I just need some space, time to get my head together. Then everything will just fine. I promise.

But like those who were lucky enough to witness the show, I am never too weary to get geared up for what Marc Jacobs has created for us. His namesake show in New York was To Die For, and his diffusion line Marc by Marc Jacobs offered the perfect fix for those of us who crave playful, feminine and easy clothes (I do). His Louis Vuitton collection, his take on French chic, reminded me of his New York stunner but with a distinctly unique feel - texturally rich, some Asian influences, a lush palette - expertly crafted pieces that we can use however we please. But how enticing were the head-to-toe looks the models wore down the runway - no hats this time but fantastic African earrings and neck pieces, so lively. And those waistcoat-cut jackets with the strong, padded shoulders...drool, drool, drool. Times are rough for everyone right now, but a jacket like this is one you would love forever, and considering the awful news as of late, likely one of the wiser investments!

 

Photos: Style.com

It's Not Me, It's You - Facchinetti Sacked From Valentino Via the Media

The farewell catchprase to see-off failed designers on the UK's Project Catwalk is "Fashion has no mercy." Alessandra Facchinetti would be inclined to agree. The creative director of Valentino, who took over for the man himself when he retired last year, found out she'd been sacked from stories in the media announcing her replacements. At the helm now is Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli, the team behind the successful accessories branch of the brand.

Vogue.co.uk reports that Facchinetti wrote in a public email after the show "It was with deep regret that I learnt from the press that I would no longer be working with Valentino.

"This news came as a great surprise since the company's top management has not yet seen fit to inform me. I would like to thank Valentino s.p.a. for showing their appreciation of my 'creative contribution and my sophisticated talent' although I deeply regret the fact that this talent and contribution do not seem to have been adequately acknowledged."

Valentino himself publicly welcomed the duo with whom he has worked closely with for years, and even got in a dig at Fracchinetti, saying "There is an existing archive with thousands of dresses where they (Chiuri and Piccioli) can draw and take inspiration from to create a Valentino product that is relevant today. It is a shame that their predecessor didn't feel this need."

As if things didn't sting enough. Yet, her third and last collection, just shown at Paris fashion week, garnered fairly positive reviews from the fashion editors who acknowledged the strengths along with the relatively minor weaknesses, weighing the output against the huge task of maintaining the essence of the Valentino brand while taking it forward. There seems to be consensus that she was headed in the right direction, and that in time she'd get it right.

Here's a look at a few dresses from the show:

The sporty side-slit in the dresses was considered to be an odd feature:

 

 

And, her take on the signature Valentino red evening dress was well-received:

Photos: Style.com

Madness in Our House of Chanel

Well, the Chanel show was just as grand as you'd expect from Karl Lagerfeld. He opened with the song Our House from Madness, an odd choice, and one that didn't really work as far as the senses are concerned (see video, do you agree?), but was obviously handpicked to fit his concept. Lagerfeld wanted to recreate the days of old where shows were viewed in-house at the original Chanel boutique at 31 Rue Cambon, so he brought it to the Grande Palais in the form of a life-size facade of the building and a street runway.

There was a bit of goofiness in the show - a model wearing a swimsuit sported a pair of wraparound sunglasses with plastic sideburns attached. The model walking alongside her couldn't seem to hide her smirk, you know she was glad it wasn't her.

Closing the show were five male models who strutted down the 'street', dressed in slight variations of young Karls. Come on guys, you know you want to rock this. Do it, please (is that Wilmer Valderrama on the right?):

 

Here are my picks from the women's looks (I'm guessing the guys' thing was a novelty Karl did to amuse himself). A new hosiery look debuted here - half sheer and half semi-opaque black tights that gave the classic tweeds a young, fresh update, and looked plain weird with other outfits. The collection has been said to be a bit all over the place, while other fashion reviewers raved about the range of inspirations. I liked it. I didn't love it. But that's okay, there will be another show coming along in no time, and 75 year-old Karl Lagerfeld has no plans whatsoever to retire. Thank god.

 

Photos: Style.com

Akris May be Dressing Sarah P..P..P...I just can't say it

Akris showed a simply gorgeous collection in Paris yesterday, which makes the rumour that the label might be outfitting Sarah Palin (ouch) that much harder to take. Hopefully it's empty whispers and at tonight's presidential debate she'll still look like a porn film librarian. But if she is wearing Akris, and hasn't changed her hair from that oh so tired frosted and fringed updo, it simply, to quote Karl Lagerfeld "is not possible".

Update: There's no word on who she wore (that I have heard), but it didn't look like Akris. It was a good suit, however, but geez, that hair, and those glasses...sooo Sally Jesse Raphael.

More from the Akris Spring 09 collection:

To achieve the Impressionist effect for the floral print on these silk georgette dresses, designer Albert Kriemler had the company's Swiss textile mill pixelate photos of gardens:

Photos: Style.com

Manish Arora Takes Us to the Circus

You can't help but smile at Manish Arora's rainbow merry-go-round skirts, even if you find the circus performer make-up a bit creepy (well, I do. Find circus performers creepy, that is. Does anyone like clowns?). There's a dramatic and grand, three ring circus feel with the dark backdrop and spotlights, it must have been like actually being at one (again, if you like that sort of thing). The brilliant colours and the cut-out embellishments hanging off the skirts are so much fun, and how beautiful are the embroidery and sculpted shapes? For that reason, I'd buy a ticket.

Photos: Dominique Maitre

The makeup reminded me of the Tao show (Tao Kurihara is a protégé of Rei Kawakubo). Check out the bagpiper socks:

Photos: Style.com

Comme des Garçons: Looks Like Bush is in For Another Term

Does this one come in green? I'd really like to wait outside and scare the hell out of the kids who approach my door on Halloween. Alright, seriously, this was a Comme des Garçons show. You never know what Rei Kawakubo has up her black, re-imagined sleeve. She called this collection Tomorrow's Black. No one seems to know exactly what it means, and that's okay, that's how it has to be. Because the avant-garde is like performance art, there to keep the rest of us guessing about meanings. Those who do put in the effort usually wind up applying whatever it is they've ascertained to their own work, and by way of the process, establishing the creator of the original work as influential. That's how I figure what and how Rei Kawakubo creates has become so consequential. Whatever you make of it, she makes you think. Or shake your head and laugh, depending.

I like the wigs, kind of like Marie-Antoinette got her head caught in a cotton-candy machine. As for what looks like ripped apart footballs? Let the guessing begin....

Photos: Style.com

Karl Lagerfeld Saddles Up His Models for Paris

Karl Lagerfeld showed his namesake collection in Paris Wednesday, and it didn't rival the impact of his impressive show for Fendi in Milan last week. But then again, his duties for Fendi and Chanel require efforts that will elicit the biggest oohs and ahhs and ensure continued success for the long running fashion houses, so maybe it's okay that he sends out models looking like female versions of him for his own label. Hard to believe, but most of the clothes were black, or black and white, rounded out by a few silver and navy looks. And a few crisp shirts served as a further reminder of who's behind it all, if the bag with his face on it got by anyone. The dominant accessory was huge, black leather belts that kind of resembled saddles. Pleated peplums in what I'm guessing is organza and dresses in a leaf print softed things up a bit. And there were some curious black ornaments on some of the girls' arms, necks and throats. To be honest, regarding Kaiser Karl, I'm really just waiting for Chanel.

Photos: Dominique Maitre

Balenciaga in Paris: "She looks like a solar panel, no?"

According to Style.com's Sarah Mower, Nicolas Ghesquière commented during his Balenciaga show in Paris yesterday that dressed in a sequin sheath, one of the models looked like a solar panel. And that was the point. Well, not to create clothes that resemble alternative sources of heating exactly, but rather to explore "matte and shine, playing with textures to see how they reflect or absorb light." Ghesquière has the fashion editors falling at his feet thanks to his genius with fabrics and his ability to implement new technology into couture techniques. So expect that Balenciaga will be a name that's going to remain on the lips of the fashion editors and the hips of the fashionistas for quite some time. As long as Ghesquière is at the helm, anyway.

Photos: Style.com

The Maison Martin Margiela Show is Going to Give Me Nightmares

Maison Martin Margiela showed in Paris yesterday, celebrating its 20th anniversary of creating highly innovative, fresh, and very wearable clothes for women and men. Martin Margiela is idolised the world over by design students, fashionistas, fashion editors and above all, his peers. And, he's the real International Man of Mystery - in his 20 year career he's never been photographed, nor has he granted an interview. Business communications are said to be done via fax (do we still have those?). Regardless of these accolades and the avant-garde context in which we are to view Margiela and his team's presentations, the way in which he chose to present his collection just plain scared the crap out of me. Models appeared to have their heads on backwards, there were long wigs on shoulders, wigs with what looks like a dog's mouth poking out (sorry to the model if that's in fact her mouth), masked faces (how in the world did the models see their way down the runway? Maybe there was a pile of them on the floor at the end)...stuff that after witnessing would have had me sleeping in my parents bed as a child. And not much has changed since then.

However, if you find all of this intriguing and want to learn more about Martin Margiela and why he is considered the absolute best by the fashion giants, read this excellent article. 

And you can visit the MMM website to see how the fashion house has chosen to communicate and package itself (very telling) - once in, it appears you've wandered onto someone's FTP site. Just so you know, you are where you're supposed to be. But they do make you wonder.

If you're not a total wuss like me, take a look at more shots from the show:

Photos: Style.com

Gareth Pugh Would Sooo Freak Out the Soccer Moms

Okay, so Brit Gareth Pugh went for showpieces more than showroom for his Paris debut to ramp up an already dramatic approach to the collections and make his mark outside of London. And it worked - everyone is talking about him, thanks to the exaggerated shoulders, masterfully crafted ruffs, articulated limbs and sculpted dresses that dominated the show. Black on the back and white on the front, each of the looks was a showstopper. I feel a bit like I just watched Star Wars.

If you want to know more about Gareth Pugh, read his pre-Paris interview at DazedDigital.com

Photos: Style.com

Brits Make Pollini a Covetable Brand, Again

One last Milan post: Jonathan Saunders, who showed one of my favourite collections of New York fashion week, has taken over the design of Italian brand Pollini. He's partnered with fellow Brit Nicholas Kirkwood, an accessories designer responsible for the fabulous shoes that walked the runway for the duo's debut in Milan. Saunders replaced outgoing creative director, the London-trained Rifat Ozbek who put the brand on the map, so it seems the British perspective is working out for Pollini.

I adore Saunders' flirty dresses. Bottom line - they are just so much fun:

 

Photos: Style.com

Marni's "Intelligent, Crazy" Spring Collection

"I was wondering to which point a human eye can bear to see so many colours, prints - altogether, in one look" ponders Virginie Mouzat of Le Figaro, who appears to have suffered a bit from watching the Marni show. I pretty much thought the same thing upon first glance of the collection. Marni is known for mixing things up yet achieving a very pulled together look, so I was really excited to see what the Italian label has in store for spring. Then I saw, and I was confused, but intrigued enough to take another look. The second time around seemed to bring some clarity and I found myself able to appreciate the different textures, colours, prints, and shapes, without having to shake my head to 'reset' fluttering eyes.

Take a look at the photos first, then watch the video, and who knows - you may like what you see:

Photos: Style.com

Lagerfeld's Fendi Collection, "Sexy, not like dirty underwear"

According to Karl Lagerfeld, the highly praised Fendi collection he showed in Milan is "all about transparency and see-through, but not a sexy see-through in the sense of dirty underwear, but in the sense of lightness and modernity." Did he really mean to imply he thinks dirty undies are sexy? Let's not linger on that one. Lagerfeld's laser cut fabrics, bouncy skirts, cinched, belted waists (we're likely seeing the next wave of the must-have Fendi belt) has been described by Tim Blanks as "sci-fi renaissance", but it really comes down to an extremely well-crafted collection of dresses and skirts. See the video above, and here are a few photos if you feel the need to stare:

 

 

 

 

 

The Flapper for the Noughties

Okay, Milan is over and Paris has begun, but it's worth mentioning the major trend that emerged on the Italian runways in the form of flapper-inspired dresses, skirts and coats. Aquilano.Rimondi, the design duo who presented their first collection for Gianfranco Ferré in Milan, displayed their appreciation of 1920s fringe, giving it a textural update with sequins, wide metallic strips and beading. Jil Sander's Raf Simons managed to keep the minimalism the label is known for while creating panels of fringe, or letting it hang long and loose to add movement over black or white shells. But most interesting was the way Simons' draped silken skeins of fringe over full bodysuits to create a very sexy silhouette with subtle movement. Finally, Alessandro Dell'Acqua continued the theme but went boho with the accessorising which gave the shaggy fringe a more hippy look.

Oh, and if you're not in the UK, 'the noughties' is what the Brits call this decade (nought = zero). How cute is that?

From Aqulilando.Rimono (and above):

Jil Sander:

 

Alessandro Dell'Acqua:

Source: Style.com

As Sweet as You Can Get Without a Toothache

Beautiful, little children were sent out just before Luisa Beccaria's show in Milan to scatter the runway with rose petals, according to Style.com. I read this detail after reviewing the looks, and it reinforced the notion that Beccaria's intention was to create the most romantic dresses possible. Although I adored the collection, a couple of the dresses (and there were only two) were just a wee bit too sweet, even for me, but not due to candy colours or overdone frills - Beccaria never wandered into the dreaded 'bad taste' territory - rather, they were just missing that bit of textural balance that would keep me from feeling too Holly Hobbie, like:

...and this dress, with its frill-trimmed bodice and ruffled hem, is a bit too Southern Belle (though I have a feeling that in person I might be won over by the beautiful embroidery):

But how lovely - and indeed romantic - are these pieces below, impossibly feminine and so gorgeous with the simple ruffles, subtle floral prints and soft shades of silver, gold, yellow and nude. (Tangent alert: Speaking of nude, there is quite a bit of sheerness that I imagine will be taken care of come time for shipping to the shops. But you never know. Four years ago I bought a BCBG dress to wear to a friend's wedding that had a semi-transparent navy top on the runway, but had been made opaque for retail. Or so I thought. I wore it sans bra as the way it was cut made it difficult to conceal one, and back then - before childbirth - I could get away with it. It was a year later, while trying it on again in direct sunlight that I realised it was definitely not opaque, it was indeed still transparent. So just a warning to check these things before wearing!) Now, for the dresses, and a little bit of nudity that adds some edge to the otherwise demure creations: