The Swelle Life

Maggie Gyllenhaal Dares to Wear the Fur Gilet

Fur issues aside (I figured Maggie to be one not to wear it), she's showing some serious fashion bravado for wearing the bulky fur gilet WITH A BELT! I see she cleverly kept the wide leather belt exposed in the front only, so the inescapable appearance of profile bulk is kept to a minimum. This is high-risk territory, reserved only for the fiercely confident fashionista. Dolce & Gabbana (below, left) sent long fur gillets down the runway for A/W 2008, worn both belted and unbelted, and Diane von Furstenberg took the belt-worn-on-the-outside look further (below, right), wrapping it around many layers of clothing to create the trend that so many of us want to work into our daily dressing, but can't because we'd wind up looking like a telephone pole with a rubber band around it.

Karl Lagerfeld Delivers His Fashion Manifesto

Karl Lagerfeld delivered an astute dissection of the fashion industry on Thursday as he introduced Harold Koda - a renowned fashion scholar and the head of the Metropolitan Museum of Art's Costume Institute - at the Fashion Group International’s Night of Stars. WWD provided excerpts from Lagerfeld's handwritten manifesto:

• “There is a strange and invisible borderline when fashion is not only fashion, but becomes the most evident and most easily visible expression of an area.”

• “Fashion as history is beyond fashion, and it is not only limited to clothes.”

• “It is difficult to imagine today that people who shaped the fashion of the first 50 years of the 20th century never had an exhibition in a great museum during their lifetime….Designers (called “couturieres”) were happy to dress people (mostly women of society). They designed with the icons of their times in mind — before that word was used as we use it today. They had muses then….For Chanel, it was simpler. She was only her own inspiration (what I admire).

• “The face of fashion is now in the hands of a small group of big companies and they often own several important and influential fashion brands. They also help to make it possible for museums to stage important shows.”

• “Fashion is today also about big shows like Hollywood productions. In the past, designers made fashion history by dressing people who had a real life in those clothes. We should learn a lot from that. Red carpet (another invention of our times) helps to distort fashion by giving it a fake and too glamorous face.”

• “The great designers of the past were certainly not humble people, but they worked in the days before media buzz. What helps most of us a lot in a way, promotion (and self-promotion), did not exist before. It’s also something that makes our approach to fashion different (too different?). But what will survive from all that?”

• “Fashion is about the harmony between utility and beauty. But the sense of beauty in fashion changes quickly — nearly as quickly as fashion itself. Some people tell us that utility is itself the essence of beauty. That may be OK for sportswear (such an important part of fashion today and not always the best). I think there has to be another dimension to it, and Harold is our visionaire in that area. You don’t design a dress only because it’s easy to wear. It should be — but that reason alone could make fashion a bore.

• “A new fashion can appear having the same origins in inspiration and admiration in the past of fashion. The danger is for us designers to be too exposed to the seduction of the past.”

• “It is difficult to work out your own vision of fashion without being haunted by the beauty of the work of the people before us — even if they were also not immune to all kind of influences and inspirations to achieve a strong vision and a unique style.”

Photo: Kristen Somody Whalen

What Goes Into Making a Chanel Haute Couture Coat?

Haute couture is the crème de la crème of luxury fashion. Made to order by a mere handful of approved design houses that adhere to the rigid requirements as defined by the Syndical Chamber for Haute Couture in Paris, the garments can cost upwards of $100,000. There are about 2,000 haute couture clients in the world, and of them only 200 or so are considered to be regular buyers (the rest just wait for the sales. Ha.). Of course, Chanel is one of the makers of these coveted works of art that so few are fortunate enough to own.

So, what goes into making an haute couture garment? To start, it's the uniqueness of design, the expert workmanship and the materials are of the highest quality. They are sewn, embroidered and beaded by hand, and several hundred hours can be required to complete one piece (not including smoke breaks. I joke - I imagine there's a daily sniff-inspection to keep the garments smelling like a cloud in paradise).

Chanel offered a glimpse into how one of the coats from their Fall 2008 Haute Couture collection was created (the final runway look pictured above). This exquisite piece of art-as-outerware took specially-skilled artisans three hundred painstaking hours to make. Here's what happened after Karl Lagerfeld handed his sketch of the herringbone coat to the premier of the atelier:

                      Step 1: The herringbone patterns are drawn on muslin

Step 2: The herringbone patterns are reproduced on fabric


  Step 3: For the sleeves, the tweed herringbone designs

                     are placed on satin.                                       

Step 4: The sleeves are then transferred to a wooden form

                              

                    Step 5: The tweed herringbone is placed by hand on the
                    satin to ensure a perfect fit.

                     Step 6: Rigorous checking is carried out during the
                     mounting of the pieces, to ensure the proportions are
                     true to the design.

Step 7: The lining is affixed inside the coat.

         Step 8: Shoes are selected to go with the coat. The shoes are handmade
         in Massaro ateliers.

Step 9: The all-important fittings, during which final tiny but

                sometimes crucial alterations are made.

   Step 10: The look is ready and the model (lucky Kim Noorda) is prepped backstage at the Grand Palais in Paris before Chanel’s haute couture Fall 2008 show

Here are a few of my favourite pieces from the show:

Production photos via The Star Malaysia

Daphne Guinness On The State of Fashion

Yesterday, my google alert pointed me to an article on FT.com, (London's Financial Times) written by one of the UK's most illustrious fashion icons Daphne Guinness, which I was going to introduce and link to. Which is what I'm doing right now. Except that Susie Bubble covered it already - Ms. Guinness had mentioned her blog StyleBubble as an example of the significant influence blogs are exerting on the fashion industry - and she summed up the article so well I'm going to use what she said:

"...a nice stance on experimentation in street style being influential whilst at the same time lauding couture for propelling fashion's artistry levels and accusing the 'middle ground' of being diluted."

So, if that interests you, here's a good, quick read from the woman who owns possibly the most covetable fashion collection on the planet (including many jaw-dropping pieces of haute couture). More importantly, she has the taste, culture and knowledge to back it up, which makes it more a collection of art and therefore separates it - worlds apart - from the empty and obscene displays of football salary wealth more commonly seen these days.

Oh right, the article: Karl Lagerfeld and Grand Theft Auto

Photo is Daphne Guinness in the March 2008 British Vogue. To read more about this fascinating fashion stylist and producer (yes, I like her) read Times Online's My Life in Fashion: Daphne Guinness and her obsession with armour

Wimbledon 2008: Sharapova Screams and Moans in Tailored Shorts

Fashion is as much a part of professional tennis  as  topspin and forehands. My earliest recollection of a media frenzy over court attire was when American Anne White donned a white, skin-tight catsuit at Wimbledon in 1985 (which officials deemed 'not appropriate tennis attire'; she showed up in a more demure outfit the next day.)

When Serena Williams appeared on court at the 2004 US Open wearing black knee-high boots created by Nike (which I think consisted of a contraption attached to her court shoes, worn during warm-up then removed for the match), we all thought she'd lost her mind. Worn with a denim jacket, top and skirt, I couldn't imagine a more uncomfortable ensemble for undertaking such an important physical contest, regardless of the amount of stretch.

Then again, I don't even understand the necklaces and large hoop earrings the women wear. The freakishly vocal Maria Sharapova seems committed to those long, gold, drop earrings that swing wildy about, as if they make up for sweaty, stringy hair and a red, acne-erupted chin. Seriously, how can one think of accessorising considering this? Has she looked in the mirror after her matches? Glitz and zits don't work. Just like red lipstick is a no-no with a break-out. Thankfully no one has been that daft - yet.

However, her outfits of the past few years have been the most fashionable (if not a bit over the top). It seems she views the court as her catwalk, especially during the Slams, and Nike (again) is only too happy to oblige and soak up all media fuss. Daytime matches warrant cute and demure, night matches possibly some serious black sparkle. When she walks onto the court wearing one of her carefully planned evening ensembles, and it is an ensemble - there's always a coordinated jacket and hair clips (again, looking rather awkward in sweaty, stringy hair), I can't help but think her need to dazzle with the clothes has eclipsed the reason she's there in the first place - to play tennis. Then again, if you knew anything about the ultra-intense Yuri, her father/coach/oppressor known to be a 'nasty' guy, you'd doubt she could be thinking about anything else on court, for there would surely be hell to pay.

On that light note, let's talk about what she wore at Wimbledon last week! She lost in the second round to an unknown, so sadly, who knows what she had planned for the final had she made it there.  

'(Ahem), Good evening ladies and gentlemen, it's a delight to have you here with us tonight. Arriving first on centre court we have the lovely Maria in a Wimbledon-friendly white fitted jacket and matching tailored shorts, a rare choice for the skirt and dress-wearing top seed. Oh, there's the Nike swoosh, oh, how that completes the look. Maria is removing the jacket - seems there was a chill in the hallway from the ladies changeroom to the court - she's revealing a sleeveless, tuxedo front and otherwise sheer top - the sports bra is covering your modesty nicely, Maria, heh heh - and that swoosh again, just to remind us we're at a sporting event and NOT London fashion week, heh heh heh. Well played, Maria!

Donatella's an Angel, Galliano is All Stuck Up and Armani Says 'Ayyyyyy'

UK Esquire asked 11 fashion designers to each re-create one of its covers from the sixties for its 75th-anniversary June issue. John Galliano (above left), never one to take himself too seriously, told Esquire, "I didn't choose this cover; it chose me." Maybe Donatella Versace (above right) came to him in a vision one night and revealed his destiny.

The man behind some of the world's most desired dresses, Lanvin's Alber Elbaz (above left) copped out and submitted a Crayola rendering of himself, using a generous amount of artistic licence in the process (although his signature enormous bow-tie is delightfully proportionate). Also timid of the spotlight is Miuccia Prada (right). Revealing one mere calf, she's running off the page but oh what a fantastic shoe that takes her there. (BTW - did you hear that during an interview in London about the SATC Movie premiere, Kristin Davis (Charlotte) told Grazia magazine that Prada is her favourite British label? Imagine?!)

I hadn't realised until now what a ringer Giorgio Armani is for The Fonz. Giorgio, for us, please say 'Sit on it'? Actually, on second thought, tell it to Tommy Hilfiger, his cover looks like a promo for the next generation of The Apprentice.

Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana are, um I don't know. Is Domenico smelling something here? I'm not so sure I'd buy that particular issue. And what's better than a pair of Karl Lagerfeld's leather racing gloves? Five pairs of Karl Lagerfeld's leather racing gloves!

Dame Vivienne Westwood, Sir Paul Smith (we're supposed to address them that way now) and Christopher Bailey also shot covers (and good ones, too) but I have a plane to catch to Canada in the morning and I must get to bed. I'll be blogging from the land of ice hockey and donut shops for the next two months, eh? (Canadians don't really talk that way, you know. Well, mostly not.)

Photos: British Esquire, Source

Mario Testino Shatters Camera Lens in Freak Vogue Accident

  

Okay, that's not true. But I'm sure they were insured for the possibility.

Mario Testino was called on to photograh the notoriously ruthless former Prime Minister of Britain, Margaret Thatcher, for Vogue, of all things. While Testino has worked closely with Vogue for years, Thatcher is far from their typical choice of model.

Thatcher, now 82, featured in the 'ageless' issue of the influential fashion magazine and was described as 'a perfect mix of practicality and style' by Testino. This from a man who lived in London during the Thatcher years!

Bienvenue Vanessa Paradis, So Long Kirsten Dunst

 

According to Women's Wear Daily, Vanessa Paradis is the new face of Miu Miu (YES!), replacing Kirsten Dunst. Vanessa will appear in the brand's upcoming fall campaign. Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott will be back to photograph the ads.

After having to endure Lindsay Lohan's mug in my favourite mags (never mind that Jessica Simpson was rumoured to have been the original, shocking choice for that campaign so we were screwed either way), I loudly applaud Miu Miu's return to collaborating with the innately and enduringly stylish, not to mention actually talented (does that matter any more?).

Vanessa has many times been the face of Chanel beginning at age 18 and more interestingly, was Calvin Klein's first choice for the 1992 campaign that made Kate Moss famous. Vanessa turned it down, and who knows if the name Kate Moss would mean anything to us today, had she not. She even got Johnny Depp in the end after Kate blew it. (Rumour has it she's still not over losing him. Ouch. I'm sorry but if she thinks hoovering lines with Pete Doherty, in her thirties, with a young daughter at home is time well spent, she never deserved him in the first place. There, I said it and I'll never mention it again).

Can't wait to see the new photos, I can read now my magazines without having to peer cautiously at the next page through my fingers.

Vanessa with good friend and occasional employer Karl Lagerfeld, creative director of Chanel (any opportunity to include a photo of Karl Lagerfeld should be eagerly seized upon):

Highlights of Hyères

The Festival International de Mode et de Photographie à Hyères has now wrapped up its public program (including fashion shows and awards ceremony) after what appears to have been a mind-blowing event. If you're not familiar, it was established in Hyères (in the south of France) 22 years ago to unveil 10 young fashion designers and 10 young photographers from all over the world, under the patronage of an international jury. I'm going to look into the new talent when I get the time to give it my full attention and hopefully I'll see a more varied approach than the draped black fabric and stark (though beautiful) images caught in a few quick glances.

One of the best parts of the festival is the exhibition which showcases a selection of the world's most fascinating photographers and their works. The Sartorialist was one, who as you may know is the man behind the #1 most influential fashion blog of the same name, snapping street fashion as he finds it. The results are often times stunning portraits of his random subjects.  I've just checked his blog and naturally it features some shots taken within the last few days in Hyères (see below). Simply gorgeous, gives you even more reason to wish you'd been. No need to fret, however! The exhibition runs until June 1, so if you're going to be in France between now and then you'd be mad not to go, and it's free.

 

For me, the exhibition draw would be the works of Melvin Sokolsky, photographer for Harper's Bazaar in the 1960s who created fashion classics with his Bubble and Flying series. One look and you can see why he's known for his portrayal of a light and playful world of enchantment, as illustrated in the first photo shown above, from the Chairs series, 1963. I don't mean to ruin what was almost a proper post, but I can't help but be reminded of Lily Tomlin's Sesame Street guest character Edith Anne who sat in that enormous rocking chair, fiddling with her feet while describing in that snot-nosed kid voice a disgusting sandwich made of peanut butter, salami, raisins, pickles, mustard, tuna... you get the point. Oh, what a beautiful post this could have been.

To the rescue, more of the astounding Melvin Sokolsky (photos from Style Bubble, photographed on exhibit in Hyères):

Cover of Donna magazine, 1964 (What do we have now? Airbrushed and Photoshopped actresses. Sigh.)

Bubble series. On The Seine, Paris with Simone d'Aillencourt, 1963

Simone d'Aillencourt on a labryinth, 1961

Inside Coco Chanel's Paris Apartment

If you've ever wondered how Gabrielle Bonheur 'Coco' Chanel lived, it is as incredible as you may have imagined.

To promote Chanel's latest scent, Coco Mademoiselle, the fashion house has created a fantastic website befitting its reputation. It includes a virtual tour of Coco's famous Paris apartment, the backdrop for the campaign's films and advertisements. Also featured is a download of the film (the long version of the commercial), behind-the-scenes look into the making of the film as well as the styling, choosing the jewelry, setting up the apartment and the launch party. Heavy daydream territory.

Keira Knightly is the face of the parfum, playing the role of Coco herself. So if you don't like her all that much, just concentrate on the scenery.

Click here for the website, and try not to get caught in the 'Keira as Coco' reflections in the mirrors, just click in the middle of the screen to start the tour.

Celia Walden of The Telegraph was enviably granted access to Coco Chanel's time-locked apartment and found a lifetime of treasures (I would have been paralyzed with awe and then asked to leave):

The entrance to her apartment

Glass and guilded wheat coffee table

Chinese urn and coromandel screens



The anteroom with silk bergere chair



The sitting room



Venetian mirrors in the dining room



See the sidebar for facts about Coco Chanel!

Karl Lagerfeld Brings 'Stilvoll' to Grand Theft Auto

The eagerly awaited Grand Theft Auto IV (due out Tuesday) has added a new character to its cast - the eccentric, monochromatic, self-fanning Karl Lagerfeld. The genius creative director of Chanel will not be participating in the great fun GTA is famous for: thieving cars, shooting people, dealing drugs and running over prostitutes, rather he'll be playing resident DJ, providing tracks the player can select as the soundtrack to their illicit rampage. I'm hotly anticipating a Kraftwerk, Rammstein, and KMFDM dominated set.

Spinning records can be hard, sweaty work (especially when doing it in a shirt that goes up to your earlobes), therefore Lagerfeld may require some refreshment. Can we expect his Diet Coke Butler will be making an appearance?

Don't Do It, Carla Bruni

The French have everything, do they not? The finest wines and cheeses, breathtaking architecture, the riviera, the Louvre, inherent style. And now the most fashionable and beautiful First Lady the world has ever seen. President Nicolas Sarkozy married former supermodel Carla Bruni in February after a brief three month courtship and even briefer divorce proceedings from his second wife.

The Sarkozys created a media frenzy when they came to the UK in March for a state visit (it was Bruni's highly fashionable yet appropriately demure wardrobe that got the most press), and now The Telegraph reports that Bruni is being courted to be the new face of Asda for their low-budget fashion range, George. If you're not familiar, Asda is the WalMart of the UK, owned by the same company. Seem a bit incongruent an association? The equivalent of eating caviar with fried spam, I'd say.

Asda's current contract with Coleen McLoughlin won't be renewed and it is said that Bruni tops the list of most desired replacements. (Coleen is a WAG, the fiancee of star footballer Wayne Rooney. And if that means nothing to you, you really aren't missing anything. Good for you, really. Well done.)

The Italian-born, French-bred (mmm....French bread) Bruni launched a career as a singer/songwriter after leaving modelling in 1997, with great success in francophone countries. She's been known to steal many husbands, even sons, but to look at her and listen to her she's as sweet as creme brulee. Although the breathy singing voice does allude to some seductive potency within. (Still, I can't imagine she needed to summon it with Sarkozy. Powerful yes, but he looks like the SLIGHTLY more attractive younger brother of Jean Chretien.)

If you want to get to know Carla Bruni, here's your introduction. It's a promo (though fairly non-promo feeling) for 2007 album, No Promises:

If you're a fan of the Richard Linklater films Before Sunrise and Before Sunset (you must see them), here's a clip from the latter which featured Carla Bruni's song Quelqu'un m'a dit:

Everyone Should Have a Travelling Beverage Butler

What a sucker I am. All this time I've been buying my own Cokes and serving myself.

Karl Lagerfeld has the right idea - have your Diet Coke presented to you in the street, IN A CHALICE, and allow a grown man his dignity. His Diet Coke Butler looks prouder than the day he told his parents he was leaving for a career as K.L.'s ponytail checker.

(We know it's Diet Coke because that's all Karl drinks.)

Thanks to Towleroad for a good laugh.