The Swelle Life

Come back next Tuesday for Judith's latest!

Judith has held on and then some to that exuberant character and style that has inspired her peers. Pink 'Eyelash' dress and earrings by Judith Frankland, with hat from Relate charity shop.

TIM SOUTHALL

I met artist Tim Southall in the mid 80's when I moved into a tenement block in Somerstown (now immortalised by a film of the same name), situated between Euston and St Pancras stations in London. A tough Irish politically active area, so I was told. We were warned to stay out of certain pubs and mind our own business and all would be fine and it was. Except for one hungover Saturday when a friend and I ventured to the local shop and were chased by a gang of visiting football yobs (I was wearing a red white and blue stretch number with matching socks and platforms) - proximity to the main line stations on certain Saturdays could be risky! I hoisted my skirt up, off with the platforms, and we ran back into the maze of flats unharmed. Tim was my neighbour, we became friends. The whole building was full of artists, musicians, designers, professionals and the odd layabout. Jeremy Hardy, the hilarious, dry alternative comedian lived above me. Nightlife was in abundance and the scene was boiling over with clubs such as The Mud Club, the Asylum at Heaven, La Scala (all nighters) the Electric Ballroom and later Taboo, the Bell in Kings X was a regular meeting point, and the list goes on and on. Tim was a dedicated student at the Royal College of Art. We partied hard but work came first for Tim. My motivation and creativity came from what I was going to wear, constant new outfits using fabrics from Shepherds Bush market or Dalston. I was wearing bright colours, stripes, stars, polka dots - anything loud with kids' toys made into earrings, such as the big bright numbers I loved. A crazy, fun, carefree period when again I found myself in the midst of some hot talent. Tim was always at work or finding inspiration. He took me to The Chelsea Arts Club and numerous shows. When the time came for Tim to get his final show ready, to my delight he found inspiration in me for some of the wonderful, vibrant silkscreens.  I love them so much they make me happy and proud to look at. Me a muse, who would have thought? So with a smile on my face I will let Tim carry on as he has kindly sent a few words to go with the pictures. Thanks Tim for capturing that moment in time in such a fabulous way.

  Plug me in and make me go-go, 1985. Tim Southall. 120 x 80cm

  

'JUDITH' SILKSCREENS, 1985

Judith and I became friends in 1984 while I was in the second year of my masters degree at the Royal College of Art. I was immediately drawn to Judith with her larger than life character and crazy approach to life: a sort of smack you in the face and hope for the best, mad, living it large existence that I was desperately trying to create in my own life. Of course, there was also an echo of the age in this, a precursor to the Big Bang and excesses of the later Thatcher years. And Judith seemed to me to be the very embodiment of this age. Then there was the flip side; lurking in the shadows of those good times were all our demons, desperately trying to escape.

In the ‘Judith’ series of silkscreens, I was trying to capture all of the above and at the same time use Judith as a funnel for my own creativity. Much of my artwork rests on taking what might seem everyday and turning it into something special, fun or celebratory, often juxtaposed with pathos: Give Me A Drink… is a good example of this dichotomy swigging from the bottle in a bikini setting, not that Judith would ever be seen in a bikini! Dashing Away with the Smoothing Iron shows a woman in a more passive role while also being a reflection on Judith’s profession, whereas Plug me in and make me go-go is an electrifying piece – Judith as a real live wire, stylishly dancing on the spot; I am a Woman of Steel, sees Judith fighting for the right to party.

I should perhaps mention ‘colour’ along with comedy and vibrancy, and size; these are the largest silkscreen I have made to date and of course, looking back now – 27 years later things look very different, but still, no subject has inspired me to work to such a scale.

Tim Southall 2011

www.timsouthall.net

Dashing Away with the Smoothing Iron, 1985. Tim Southall. 105 x 77 cm

Give me a Drink at an Impressionable Age and it’s Mine for Life, 1985. Tim Southall. 105 x 77cm

I am a Woman of Steel, 1985. Tim Southall. 105 x 77 cm

 

Header photo of Judith Frankland by Denise Grayson

 

Judith carries on from Act 1 of last week's Balenciaga Hears the Sound of Music - read it here.

Judith, with her vestal cherubs, says "Call me Old Fashioned but I couldn't resist." Nun's collar and cuffs by Judith Frankland, skirt is vintage from West Germany and the headpiece is from Relate charity shop. 

Act 2 The Chenil Gallery in Chelsea was the setting for my next show. Steve Strange modelled for me and asked his beautiful friend Francesca Von Thyssen to also do so.This led to the lovely spread in the Italian magazine Donna. Melissa Caplan, talented and extremely inventive, also showed her line. At that time she was dressing Steve, Spandau Ballet and Toyah. Our dressing rooms, like our clothes, could not have been more different. Melissa's was calm, organised, alcohol free. Mine chaotic, unorganised and alcohol friendly! To the sound of Ultravox's Vienna my models made their way, if somewhat wobbly, down the makeshift runway. It was a fun day.

Steve Strange and Francesca Von Thyssen model Judith Frankland

Judith's card from the 80s. She was 'Judi' then

I was next commisioned to make four outfits for Steve, a young boy, a teenage boy and an elderly man for Visage's Mind of a Toy  video. It was made by Godley and Creme (10 cc). The four identical suits were in pale blue/ turquoise moire taffeta with antique looking frilly lace shirts. It is a stunning video, beautifully shot. After the day filming, hair stylist extrordinaire Ollie and I went off to check out the Brummie rivals to London's Spandau, Duran Duran. We went in critical mode but after a few drinks left Planet Earth and had a fab time. A few weeks later so did Duran for different reasons - the rest is history.

Judith designed and made four costumes for Visage's Mind of a Toy Video

Steve Strange wore Judith's designs for the Fade to Grey cover

HELL! An ironic name for Steve and Rusty's next club in Covent Garden. Why? Because word had spread about "The Blitz Kids " and how they dressed and acted, and as usual, some mindless buffoons didnt like it. They would come and stand outside heckling and threatening. The window was smashed one night and we were all locked in the club for our own safety. The end was in sight for that small selective scene. Some would acuse the Bowie video for this; however, while this is probably true, it was only part of the demise. It was on the cards as bands and designers took off and became household names, plus with all the magazine coverage and TV it was inevitable. And let's face it, fame was the name of the game for the majority of the patrons.

Judith kept the invite to Hell's opening night

On a lighter, funnier note - Steve had made me cloakroom girl, a job I also took over at The Blitz when (Boy) George got sacked. The cloakroom was next to Steve at the door. One night he had to leave me alone for a few minutes and gave strict instructions that no one was to come in free of charge. As fate would have it, Helmut Newton, Bianca Jagger, David Bailey and friends arrived. They sailed in and just as I was about to stop them to make them pay Steve had spotted them and came like a bat out of Hell to stop me. The visiting Royalty went off and spent the night in the kitchen!

 

Judith's designs featured in Donna magazine which featured Boy George, before fame, on the cover:

 
When Steve and Rusty decided to put on the big event "The People's Palace" at the Rainbow everything was changing and growing rapidly. The look we favoured was an Ethnic style, Berman and Nathans sale being a favourite haunt. Our look was a DIY style of long robes, baggy pants, big shirts,  beads, shawls, sandals and rags in the hair. Steve started to look like Robinson Crusoe with designer stubble and a "tan". There was to be a fashion show and I was one of the chosen ones, but to my horror everyone pulled out the day before. Steve would not hear of me bailing and picked me up in a taxi to make sure I arrived. It went on not as planned - six outfits does not maketh a show! It was a fiasco with the same models coming on twice to lengthen it. That evening and night bands such as Ultravox , Peter Godwin's Metro and dance troupe Shock performed. However, I have to say if there was one fabulous thing that did come out of this affair it was that a young Depeche Mode played! I can actually say I was on the same bill as them - HA! To this day they are still one of my favourite bands and probably the most consistently successful and innovative to come out of those years .

 "New Romantic" hit the High Street and Royalty attempted a watered down version to the delight of the masses and the club scene exploded. The last of the "Dress up" clubs was, I would say, St Moritz, hosted by Chris Sullivan. It had a 1930s Berlin ambiance and everyone made an effort to look impeccable. The music was eclectic, the club ran for a short time and I really liked that night out. Le Beate Route and Le Kilt became the next "in" places and bank holidays in Bournemouth with, for instance, Blue Rondo a la Turk playing. It was all very boozy and wild with lots of fun heaped on top. However, a new theme to my life was about to begin and I took off to Vancouver on a whim. I stayed almost a year. I had started my search for home and this would take me back and forth to more foreign destinations over the years. To this day, every few years I get itchy feet and flee to pastures new.

Well, I have tried to fill you in a little on those early heady days, and next week I will begin the real reason I loved the idea of this opportunity to write this blog. That being to share tales of the things I love, people I admire, and celebrate some of the incredibly talented and interesting folk I have met along my way .

Next week I will start withTim Southall, an incredibly gifted artist who was still at the Royal College of Art when I met him back in the mid 80s. He did me the honour of doing some prints inspired by me and included them in his graduation show. Big question: "What do I wear? " It's just like going to the Blitz again - all I know is it must be bright. However, right now I'll just Fade to Grey 'til the next time. PS. Lots of outrageous events have been left out of this week's blog to protect the not-so-innocent, including myself!

Photos of Judith Frankland by Denise Grayson

LFW: Bora Aksu's Exquisitely Structured Textures and Knits

I LOVED this show. Turkish born and London-based Bora Aksu spoiled us with all kinds of delicous details worked into his highly structured pieces.  It was one of those shows where I found myself making audible 'ooh and ah' sounds as I snapped away. And that's how it should be!

In a predominantly black, silver and grey palette with pops of emerald green every few looks, there were intricate and bold knits; lace and panels of sheer chiffon and leather - the latter which at times resembled a breast plate, like a glam Joan of Arc, and was seen plain as well as embossed, outlined with large stitch holes; jackets and shirts with reconstructed tuxedo elements; harness belts; flirty skirts; and a clear plastic-y material that showed up in sleeves, panels and skirts for a more structured transparency than the chiffon could offer.

As you can see, in many of his outfits Aksu used all of these elements to create complex, highly textured garments to stunning effect.  You want to take them in your hands and have a good look and feel at everything that's going on - front, sides and back. The collection is a perfect balance of hard and soft, the silks and knits tempering the rigidness of the leather to make it something wearable.

 
 
  

  

 
  
 

 

Photos by Denise Grayson

  Judith Frankland wears a top, skirt and earrings of her own design. The perfect transition outfit for busting out of the convent.

BALENCIAGA HEARS THE SOUND OF MUSIC, Act 1

That was the description given to my graduation collection by a very generous journalist  back in 1980. My name in the same breath as the Spanish genius Cristobal Balenciaga (1895-1972) and my beloved "I want to be a nun when I grow up" film The Sound of Music - how fabulous! I accepted the comparison and compliment with delight - after all, I'm only human! My graduation show at The Cafe Royale in London was attended by some of the most glamourous faces from the Blitz and the Head honcho himself, Steve Strange. Thanks to them it was received with an enthusiastic cheer! I was told years later that Vivienne Westwood was there, this was before the McClaren-Westwood Worlds End collection had been unleashed on an awestruck London.

My small collection was predominantly black and white taffeta, brocade, velvet and satin.The black and white striped satin had embossed polka dots in turquoise and yellow in two different sizes and widths; it also came with a tale or perhaps a tall story . The delighted salesman who brought the bolts up from the basement of the shop in London "especially for me" proceeded to tell me that this fabric had been created for the Rolling Stones some years back for a tour and this was the last remaining yardage. With glee I didn't hesitate to say "I'll take it all" and the story, to this day I don't know the truth, but then again I still believe in Father Christmas!

THE VEIL AND STEPHEN JONES

 On the day of the show, my Mum who had travelled down from the Lake District with her friend was backstage with me while I nervously put the finishing touches to the frocks. Today, at 81 years old, she still recalls seeing a rather unusual looking young man coming towards us. He was wearing a suit complete with knickerbockers and ballet style shoes with bows, carrying what turned out to be the crowning glory of my ultimate piece, the black Wedding Dress. This gracious and polite young man was Stephen Jones who had kindly created this architectural wonder for me. This veil headdress was made of stiffened lace on a metal frame and was simply amazing. Who would have thought at that moment that a few years later he would be hailed as one of the world's greatest milliners? Hmm...actually anyone who came into contact with him or his work knew, it was so obvious. The dress and veil was to be worn by the beautiful statuesque model Sheila Ming, possibly best remembered now for her role in the Duran Duran video for Hungry like the Wolf.

After the show, Steve Strange contacted me and bought the dress and veil along with a couple of other pieces. One was a medieval-style taffeta jacket he later wore on the cover of the Visage single Fade to Grey. One of Steve's friends Vivienne Jagger bought the opera coat with striped polka dot lining and a huge stand up collar.

THE BLITZ, DAVID BOWIE AND ASHES TO ASHES

The icing on the cake however was the night David Bowie came to The Blitz searching for extras for his new single which would be named Ashes to Ashes. In a wonderful twist of fate, Steve was resplendent in the wedding outfit that night and was chosen straight away. He was also asked to select people he felt could be right. I believe designer Stephen Linard had been asked but due to pressing circumstances was unable to partake. I was invited as was Darla Jane Gilroy over to the table where David Bowie and his P.A. Coco were sitting and offered a glass of champagne. Darla and I were both dressed in a similar ecclesiastic style and were also asked to take part for what at that time was a decent sum of money for penniless, decadent students. We were told Coco would call us the following day with the details. I awoke with a jolt, seriously wondering if this had all been a dream. I chose to believe not and sat at the door of the "palatial" bedsit for hours waiting for the communal upstairs phone to ring so that I could sprint up in time to catch it. When the call finally came, I was instructed to be outside The Hilton the next day at some ungodly hour, fully dressed and made up the same way I had been at The Blitz, and to get the coach to a secret location.

  That wedding dress from Judith's graduate collection with the veil made by Stephen Jones

 

Judith performed in David Bowie's iconic Ashes to Ashes video along with three of her Blitz friends, including Steve Strange who wore her wedding dress and veil in some of the scenes. Judith is on the far right in the first screen cap.

When we arrived at the beach near Hastings, the crew was set up and David Bowie greeted us dressed in the Lindsay Kemp outfit he would wear that day. He coached us for a few minutes on the words we were to mime and then the day was spent in sinking sand and mud. We had "done well" we were told at the end of the day and asked to come to the studios in Wandsworth to shoot another scene. May I add that at the studios David Bowie had lunch with us mere mortals in the canteen. Yummy. The scene we were to do at the studio involved an explosion and I was at the back. In fact if you look at the video you can see my crucifix swing in. We were told to duck out and run after we had mimed our piece or we could be hurt. This was difficult in a hobble dress, so I hoisted it up as high as I could and got ready to run. Quite a sight for the superstar sat behind me. It took about three takes and we were done and told we could stay to watch the rest of the filming and that we should tell no one about the details of the video. It was all very hush hush.

The night it aired on Top of the Pops I was working at Hell (another Steve and Rusty club - more about that next week). As I had to get there early I would take the tube alone, a daunting affair. However, this particular Thursday I was wearing the outfit I had worn in the video, totally unintentionally. I was recognised by some people who had seen Top of the Pops and ridiculed by others, as usual. But it was worth it. To this day that video still interests and intrigues lots of folk. It was at the time the most expensive video ever made and the song went to Number 1, perhaps we should have bartered for more money. The mileage I got out of that collection had only just begun and I was an established New Romantic.

Adieu for now from this Old Romantic who will never be a nun.

Judith, who was known as Judi back then, had pieces from her graduated collection featured in Viz magazine where it was described as '"Balenciaga hears the Sound of Music'"

Special thanks from Judith to David Johnson for "reviving the mucky 30-year-old slides and bringing them back to life." The photographer who shot them was Niall McInerney.

Header photo of Judith by Denise Grayson.

Come back next Tuesday for Act. 2 - with more delightful (and some bitchy) surprises!

 Judith in her wonderful living room. When we shot, she felt the decor may not be 'enough'! Skirt and tie by Judith Frankland; jacket, shirt, and shoes are charity shop finds. Photo: Denise Grayson

Style guru, self appointed expert, critic, preacher? No way! I'm an upstart and a woman like many who loves - and in my case 'lives' - fashion and the world that lurks around it, a world I have stepped in and out of all my life living in London, Vancouver, Milan, Los Angeles and my beloved Paris. I have an excitable, excruciatingly inquisitive mind; I never stop thinking, plotting and some would say talking!

I am not a lover of the term "On trend"; I like to say "On form". Micro mini to maxi. If it feels right on the day I'll wear it - no sheep mentality for me. The only thing I follow is the weather - a hard job in Olde England. I, like zillions of others, love to wear clothes, dress up and be noticed, and I shall be incorporating a weekly look alongside my banter. I mix bargain buys, charity shop finds and my own creations. I'll be begging a hairstylist friend once in a while to do me a 'do as I'm not good with tongs unless provoked.

When Denise offered me this weekly spot on The Swelle Life I was so flattered and jumped at the chance to let off some creative steam and share my experiences, past and present. And we'll have a good old romp through my ever-expanding wardrobe, so come join me every Tuesdsay as I throw myself back into the lion's den to launch a new collection later this year.

Judith in one of her fantastic creations, a two-tiered skirt in a bubble of 'school boy' fabric over plaid ruffles in pink and purple.  Photos: Denise Grayson

A Brief History

My life so far has been full of surprises and more than my share of drama, which I seem to attract! My roots - well, the ones on my head are grey now - but the ones from my past were very colourful, from punk to New Romantic and a lot more along the way. Now you may think "Aha - trends!" but at the time they were fresh. I was in the right place at the right time at the right age. These were groundbreaking times, full of self expression and the desire to have a unique look. Often peoples' perception of punk is different from mine. In the early days, the look was bright, not just black, ripped and safety pinned. One of my outfits was an orange lurex two-piece, purple tights, odd dayglo socks, pink kitten heels. Bows all over my head, a plastic mac with small kids' toys attached (ok, with safety pins). That was one way I would troll up on Bromley high street on my way to college. I loathed college, and it wasnt keen on me either, at least the boring head honchos weren't. We would buy boiler suits and dye them bright colours, all very DIY and inexpensive. As my mood darkened mainly due to my dislike of that dreaded place, I started to embrace the all-black and tartan style and a bit of a bad attitude that was to become the punk stereotype.

 Judith in the mid-80s with friend and artist Tim Southall. Photo: Richard Sawdon Smith

The Blitz

Then the Blitz and Steve Strange came hurtling into my life where weekly we paraded around proud as peacocks. It was out and out glamour as we danced to the brilliant DJ Rusty Egan. Steve and Rusty started this night in the small wine bar in Holborn that held around 250 people. Lucky fashion plates, it changed the course of my life and gave chances to many others. I had met Steve through my degree show which was later labelled New Romantic and he bought several pieces from this collection.

Every week in the (less than) palatial South Kensington bedsit I shared with my friend, designer Richard Ostell, we would spend hours coming up with what to wear. Poor Richard had the labourious task of using a can of Elnette and a lot of elbow grease to create a bouffant for me without a hair extension in sight; in fact I'm not sure they existed then. We were optimistic, fame hungry, party animals with a fondness for cocktails and the fine things in life, but booted back to reality when the bank statement came as the majority of us were students. Apart from that it was a fantastic time!

At the Blitz you would rub shoulders with luminaries from the world of art, music, fashion, journalism and photography: Gilbert and George, Brian Clarke, model Marie Helvin, even John Lydon AKA Johnny Rotten, and many others. But not Mick Jagger. Steve Strange famously denied him entry one night - his look didn't pass! And then of course there were the stars of the near future strutting their stuff: Sade, Spandau Ballet, George (later to become Boy), and Midge Ure to name a few.

I had my "15 minutes" when I was handpicked to appear in David Bowie's Ashes to Ashes video. I followed this with a video for Visage's Mind of a Toy single, designing and making the costumes - more on both in a future post. The site Shapers of the 80s gives a very accurate look into this era with some great pictures. A few colourful if somewhat chaotic fashion shows were next and then off I was on my travels.

 

Milan and Onward

After a few moves I settled into running clubs in Milan and one-nighters throughout Italy. We brought from London the fabulous Gerlinde Costiff and hubby Michael with the "girls" and DJs from their legendary club, Kinky Gerlinky. Leigh Bowery hosted a night sporting two pairs of shoes at once and a toilet seat around his neck for starters. Showcases followed for Seal, Right Said Fred, Dee-Lite, Ru Paul, Lahoma van Zandt and super DJ Larry Tee from New York. Fashion shows, parties for MTV, the list is long. It was a crazy, fast time.

After some years in Milan I flew the nest to LA where I started a clothing label selling in various shops around the city. Next it was Paris where I happily started to export to Japan. A busy, satisfying life with lots of work and all rather glam in the way only Paris can be.

These days I'm treating my mind and body with respect, and as a friend brilliantly put it after his abstinence over the holidays, "My liver loves me." I'm channelling all my energy and my retirement from the wilder side of life into creativity. I have many frocks to make, places to see, people to meet, and things to learn - writing well being one of them. Be gentle with me, please! I'm full of surprises and hope you can be lured back even just to look at the pictures!

Join us next Tuesday for Balenciaga Hears the Sound of Music - how a journalist described Judith's graduate collection. She'll share photos of her fantastic creations and tell the story of that fateful night when David Bowie came into the Blitz and chose her, three friends and the fabulous black lace wedding dress from her collection to appear in the Ashes to Ashes video. A great story all around - and as promised, there will be surprises!

Karen Elson Can Sing

 

It took me a while to get up to speed on Karen Elson's recording debut. I recall hearing quite a while back that she had made an album and I guess I figured it would filter its way down to me. Well, it didn't, not until yesterday when I was reminiscing on YouTube. For once one of their suggestions was for a video I would actually watch (I guess they haven't clued in yet that I am always up for a 'hits to the crotch' or 'barfing babies' montage.)

I had no doubt she would have musical talents, for to be Jack White's wife you would have to be good to put it out there. And that's what she thought, too, with regards to her songwriting. He already knew she sang 'like angel, had a gorgeous voice' (awww!) but she hid the songs she'd written until she was sure she wouldn't get divorced could impress her beloved, and impress him she did and they got to work and we now have an album called The Ghost Who Walks and some videos. White calls her style 'folk-country-goth', which fits. She plays guitar, sings beautifully, delivers hauntingly catchy songs and of course looks incredible while doing it. And she uses a lot of peach. We could use more peach in the world. (Don't laugh, it's a good colour!)

'Who is this Karen Elson' you ask? She's best known as the British model with vibrant red hair and transluscent skin, who had no eyebrows for awhile and that became her signature look. She was referred to as 'alien' and all kinds of ridiculous names for her unique looks by people in the industry who obviously forgot that she was paid to be memorable. And now everyone is shaving off their eyebrows. Fickle industry!

Lu Flux's Personal Toile de Jouy

A couple weeks ago I covered Lu Flux's SS 11 collection Over the Hills and Far Away and wondered as to the origin of the print on this wonderful men's outfit and women's dress, knowing Lu there was a story behind it. And it turns out there is!

I'll just relay what Lu told me:

"The prints are drawn by my good friend and many time collaborator Neil O'Driscoll (he also makes my films each season). A very talented man! The toile de jouy is in fact personalized and is made up of pictures of me and my boyfriend Alex, our dog Burt Wellington and many of our friends which is so so lovely."

Isn't it? How great would it be to have you with you friends, furry ones, too (I love that her dog's name is Burt Wellington!), immortalised in a toile de jouy? I've always loved this style of print, especially in blue, and it flows right into Lu's style of storytelling through clothes. My first recollection of the toile de jouy was in my aunt's teenage bedroom when I was very little (looks awesome under Shawn Cassidy posters). And I think on a quilt, too, also at my grandparents'. Both in blue.

A little background - the toile de jouy originates in - can you guess? - France! in the late 1700s in Jouy-en-Josas, a village near Versailles. The factory that manufactured it was founded in 1760 by German-born Christophe-Philippe Oberkampf, (1738-1815), a textile entrepreneur. According to Quilter's Muse, the factory at first produced only floral designs block printed with wood blocks. In all, more than thirty thousand block print designs were utilized to print fabric there. Imagine the archives!

As for who printed Lu's, I think I know, but I'm quite certain it wasn't done with wooden blocks!

Happy New Year! London's Best Fireworks Display Yet

 

Last night's fireworks display on the Thames is being called London's best ever. Spectacular, sustained intensity that was awesome to watch even on TV. It was a family New Years Eve with my parents who are visiting from Canada, except that neither of them made it to midnight! It's alright, we had our champagne with dinner. We even ate champagne! Thanks to Mr. Swelle who made pasta with a champagne cream sauce. It calls for caviar which we've done before though not using the expensive kind (and is so decadent you need to clear the next two days so you can sit there in elastic waisted pants until you find the motivation to move) but this time we went with smoked salmon as we had some we needed to use and it was delicious with it.

Happy New Year everyone! May it bring lots of happiness wherever you are.

(If you're an email subscriber click the title so you can watch the video!)

 

 

Lu Flux SS 2011: Over the Hills and Far Away...

 

Lu Flux collections are like illustrations of stories. Enchanting, magical and always colourful stories. Each season is essentially Lu's wearable version of a fairytale. A breath of fresh air amongst the high street clones and safe style, there's really nothing out there quite like Lu Flux. Her latest collection Over the Hills and Far Away is presented in collaboration with illustrator Neil O'Driscoll who clearly gets the spirit of Lu's work and brings it vividly to life in both print and film, above.

I was lucky enough to get one of the limited edition illustrated lookbooks at London Fashion Week, it's a keeper: 

The photographic lookbook is special, too. Lu designs a set for each collection to create the illusion that her model, or character, is inside a story, and therefore so are we. How can you not be smitten?

At London Fashion Week in September I saw the pieces in person for the first time and fell in love. A new shoe collaboration, Lu Flux for Green Shoes was also introduced but I was so fixated on the clothes I didn't even realise! Also for the first time, patchwork prints were created as a seamless alternative to the actual patchwork pieces, they were used to make a dress t-shirts and leggings (above, top right and bottom second last on the right).

 Front and back of a new patchwork dress, Lu Flux's signature style. Lu had just stepped out so that's her lovely assistant Natasha showing me the pieces.

 
Those overalls are pure joy! Natasha is wearing the amazing Plume Skirt from the Eco Life of Riley collection

I LOVE this top.

Ok. I need to ask Lu about this print and am doing so right now. The men's jacket which women could wear - see behind on the rack - was just awesome.

 

Each collection features a few exceptionally spectacular pieces that take days to make, like the loopy skirt (above) and dress:

Speaking of spectacular pieces, I was stunned when I saw this on display at Fashion Week in February, from the Dame and Knight AW 2010 collection (can you believe my battery has just died and I couldn't get detail shots? I could have cried):

The skirt reminds me of the Princess and the Pea. See? Fairytales you can wear!

Fancy a gorgeous piece of Lu Flux? We've got one amazing Plume Skirt left in size medium, and one each of the BowTie T-shirt and vest in Swelle Boutique in the sale, it's an absolute steal:

Celebrating Five Years of N.E.E.T.!

 

Five years ago, N.E.E.T. Magazine was launched and became the first online, free publication dedicated to showcasing the most exciting things happening in the DIY movement - independent, handmade, eco-friendly and vintage fashion and design. Today the quarterly magazine has thousands of enthusiastic readers and is known as a "grassroots style bible for the digital age."

To celebrate five years of success, editor Stephanie J presents the first printed N.E.E.T book. With the theme of ‘FIVE’, the book features five sections with five inspiring N.E.E.T. people, designers, bloggers, photographers and homes, with interviews by five writers, in a N.E.E.T. retrospective.

In the spirit of 'FIVE' you can choose from five cover designs by illustrators Gemma Correll, Kris Atomic, Anke Weckmann, Peggy Wolf and Jordan Grace Owen:

  

The book is available in hardcover and softcover and can be purchased at Blurb. Get a discount until December 31st using one of these codes:

USD $10 coupon: CHEER
GBP £6 coupon: CHEER1
EUR €8 coupon: CHEER2
CAD $11 coupon: CHEER3
AUD $12 coupon: CHEER4

Want a peak inside?

And in case you missed it, the 5th Anniversary edition of N.E.E.T. magazine is now out:

 

 

Congratulations and a BIG thank you for bringing us the wonderful N.E.E.T. Magazine, Stephanie!

(FYI - Stephanie did the redesign of Swelle Boutique, you can see her design portfolio here)

Weekend Fashion Film Treat: The Good Life

Every so often something truly great comes along and I'm gushingly grateful. Something that evokes an emotional response of the extraordinary kind, as in not the kind of the thing you experience in day to day life, and connects with a part of you you would almost forget existed if it wasn't so thrillingly nudged every now and then. (Say what? In short, I lose it for beautiful things that tap into a dream state and I can't tell you why. I don't know exactly.)

Photographer and film maker Alice Hawkins made The Good Life which showcases some of the best of AW 2010, it's a moving editorial of sorts. But for me this film is not about fashion.

This is how it's described on Showstudio (yes, them again. What can I do, they're awesome):

"Proper doesn't have to mean prim - Alice Hawkins gives the bourgeoisie mood of the A/W 2010 collections a terribly British spin in a tongue-in-chic ode to Margot Leadbetter, Beverly Moss and quintessentially English class consciousness."

I didn't grow up here so I don't know the 70s TV show after which this film is named, I don't have a reference for Margot Leadbetter, and Google can't seem to tell me who Beverly Moss is, though something tells me I should know. But that's all fine, I prefer no context for this film. As I mentioned I'm not viewing this as a fashion film, though it's tough to ignore the familiar outfits, and the fact that I fell in love with that Dior ribboned sweater on the catwalk, the one that the wonderful Jean Sherman is wearing at her vanity table (which looks a bit different on her).

The Good Life is like David Lynch doing the The Housewives of Orange County (without the boob jobs, trout pouts, useless husbands and ingrate kids). It's a bit film noir and completely dreamlike. The way Hawkins shot it is dramatic and stunning, she plays with light and dark to create the passage of time - the bright, waking sun of dawn with birds chirping, the washed out look of dusk, and the deep shadows of a mysterious night. Yet her passage of time doesn't necessarily make any sense, all weaving in and out in quick seconds and at the same time dragging slowly, which is a huge part of its appeal. Any of the scenes in The Good Life could be seamlessly edited into Lost Highway or Mulholland Drive.

The film also taps into the standard feminine idealism - perfect house, clothes, hair, family, life - and every waking second is bliss, all smug smiles of true contentment. It's as if their air is not the same as the one we breathe. Why, they don't even need it! They exist on a different, Lynch-esque plane.

I imagine Hawkins asked her cast? subjects? to play the impossibly glamorous, self-satisfied woman. But something tells me, if their stories are true, that they felt right at home and quite deserving of such a portrayal.

After writing the previous paragraph I read this, which would have me believe these women are indeed only a slightly less exaggerated version of their 'characters' and that's exactly why they were chosen. I don't think Hawkins like actors, she's intrigued by real people and exaggerating their fun parts. The article also touches upon why the film reminded me of pageants - the unnatural poses, the frozen smiles, and the complete and utter belief in what they portray, which I would sum up as nothing. If you asked them to stand there and smile without moving for a whole hour, they would, no questions asked. Hawkins is into all of that, "she's attracted to those who 'make an effort'". Works for me.

 
 

Wedgwood's Beautiful Baubles and Blues Pt. 2 (and Teacups!)

So I'm back with more Wedgwood baubles and the teacups I was talking about in my last post. Thanks to Alexandra for letting us know in the comments that the baubles are not only still available in the U.S., they are on sale! And they have even more designs! Now why does the U.S. site have more options than the UK site? It's a British company! Stop being stingy at home, Wedgwood, they've got more than they need yet we're deprived. Oh, the injustice.

I'm kidding of course (almost). I so want that teacup and saucer so I can display it on my mantle year round. And how about that three-tier cake? Oh, wait - back up. I just checked and they're gone, as they should be!

As for the teacups, I was at first lusting after Wedgwood's Cuckoo collection, those are three with the large floral patterns in the first collage which come in pastel blue, pink, green and peach. Then I saw the cup and saucer set from their Harlequin collection with the gold stripe deco handle and I instantly cheated on the Cuckoos. And the pink and gold daisy mug, wow. If I had those two I think I would have to put all of my food in a blender so I could drink out of the cups as much as possible. (Ew. On second thought I would just look at them a lot. I eat a lot of pizza.)

The dotty cup and saucer in 1950s minty turquoise - the absolute best colour in the world in my mind - is from Royal Albert. I have one of their sets coming for Christmas, I had to order my own gift as it was low stock and I would have missed out. Does that mean I can use it as soon as it arrives? It's a gorgeous lilac floral set of just one cup and saucer and I can't wait to have it, but that was before I saw the deco cup and lost my mind. Even the box is a dream.

I mentioned in the last post that I was going to do a little story on how I've brought blues into the house. (And by that I mean colours and not PMS. Though to be fair both qualify.) Then I realised that it's not the best time for photos as I've got Christmas decorations up, but I will do it. Especially now that we've got an antique tallboy sideboard painted in a saturated cerulean blue which I found today through sheer luck at our local market. For £80. And they delivered it free. That never happens to me, I'm not that girl! It made our kitchen and I can't stop staring at it. After the holidays I'll do my show and tell. I'm going to stare at it now! (It smells a bit funny but that's ok.)

Wedgwood's Beautiful Baubles and Blues

Let me preface this with something I hope I don't have to say too often: Don't get too excited. These are all sold out. But they are just so pretty and as this blog is a collection of beautiful things, well, I just want them on it. I'm like putty when it comes to powdery pastels and icy blues (our Christmas tree is white with arctic blue baubles) and Wedgwood is synonymous with slate blue pottery, hence 'Wedgwood blue', as well as Royal service and the Peter Rabbit dishes from our collective childhood. Wedgwood was established by innovative ceramacist Josiah Wedgwood in 1759. Can you imagine the pride in knowing that 250 years later your legacy would live on and flourish in the spirit in which it was conceived and nurtured? Except that I don't think he was doing designer collaborations back then.

I have three of their little dishes that I bought at the Tynemouth market for I think £1 each. At that price you can blow your nose on them, but that's not really good use now is it? Below are two of them along with a handpainted gold leaf Japanese dish from 1877 which is the thing that the younger children of friends feel compelled to run up to and slam with their fist. It's a miracle it's still intact. It only cost £2.50 but that's not the point. Pocket change for an antique and people still barter if you can believe it. I witnessed one woman trying to get a bargain on a figurine that was 50p. I'll pay 35p for that but no way I'm paying 50! Those vendors stand out there all day and may only make a few quid for their trouble. You might as well just steal it when she's not looking, that would be more dignified!

 

Okay, at this point I was going to show the Wedgwood teacups I'm in love with - collecting tea cups is a phase I've been going through for about five years now and I don't think it's a coincidence that it began when I moved to England - or go on about how I've brought blue into our house as it's the colour I'm most happy living with. I'm going to take photos of all the blue, in whatever form and do a show and tell. Seeing as it's an ungodly hour I'm going to save both for follow ups. Part two coming tomorrow...

But here's a preview in the meantime, I didn't stop until I found the exact blue I wanted for the walls:

To Lee, With Love, Nick

 

"Celebrating the breathtaking imagination and groundbreaking designs of Lee Alexander McQueen", Nick Knight created this film tribute to the late designer. Bjork provides an exclusive soundtrack that builds quite intensely, and forged with Knight's dramatic and stunningly beautifully imagery, illicits a powerful emotional response. Perfect timing for the release as I suspect any earlier it would have been too much to take on. 

Watch here.

Showstudio: Mary Katrantzou Making a Blooming Skirt Live!

 

Click to view the livestream

As I write this, Mary Katrantzou is putting the final touches on her lampshade skirt made of hundreds of flowers. Mary is the latest to create a piece live in the SHOWstudio.com LiveStudio, fo their Florist exhibition. She was just discussing the model's look with the makeup artist for the big reveal. The structure for the garment was created yesterday by welder Rob Hall.

What I love about these intimate work sessions, beyond the insight into the designer or artist's creative process is the glimpse it gives us into their personality. You can easily see who is lovely (Mary is), who carries the weight of the world on their shoulders, who likes throwing up on things. (Yes, Millie Brown aka Puking Millie does that. I didn't tune in. I did look at the result, and if I'd seen something really beautiful in her um, 'expression', it would have caused me to contemplate what I know about the process behind creating beauty and there might have been something profound in that analysis, a revelation. However, to me it just looked like someone barfed coloured paint. Which was actually coloured milk. I'll fully admit that I can't get past her method to consider it thoughtfully, and I'm not sure I'm obligated, which to me means don't judge it, then. I just looked again and it actually caused me to gag, seeing her bent over the canvas with the milk spilling Pollock-ly? from her mouth. I tried. To each her own.)

So, flowery skirts! Watch before it's gone, she's been at it since this morning.

Above is the early construction of the Lampshade skirt, and it immediately reminded me of the work of Lola Brooks, my favourite artist jeweller:

Stephen Jones' Glamour on a Budget: The Reveal

 

Yesterday during Showstudio's latest LivesStudio session, Stephen Jones created a floral centrepiece and a beautiful hat trimmed with fresh flowers as his contribution to their latest exhibition, Florist. When Stephen reappeared after changing outfits - I love that he had a setting up outfit and one for working - he greeted us with 'Welcome to Glamour on a Budget' and I thought he was kidding, but apparently that was the title of this project. Which makes perfect sense considering the centrepiece was made of yogurt pots, wire hangers and toilet paper rolls! It's like the coolest nursery school craft time ever. And you'd think I'd have a photo of the final piece but the feed cut out, then they broke for a bit and there's nothing on the site. Just trust me it didn't look like it was made from the contents of your recycle bin!

The piece will be available for sale in the Showstudio Shop, so I'm a bit confused as to how that is pulled off with fresh flowers! An edited version of the session is currently being prepared.

The next Livestudio happens Monday, 6 December 10:00 GMT and it's with Mary Katrantzou!

The model was wearing an incredible John Galliano trench:

And Stephen loved her shoes:

 

Photos are screencaps of the livestream, the trench and final shot is from Showstudio

Stephen Jones Livestream at Showstudio Now!

 

Click to watch Stephen live!

Showstudio has just begun their livestream of Stephen Jones (12:00 GMT) who is creating a unique piece for the SHOWstudio Shop's latest exhibition Florist - what a treat! This is part of their series of live-streamed performances in which eminent industry figures will be joining the LiveStudio, crafting floral-themed works in tandem with the exhibition and celebrating SHOWstudio.com's ten year anniversary.

Showcasing the entire process in a live stream for today only, Jones' floral artefact will then be exhibited and available for sale.

As I write this Stephen is changing his outfit after having laid out his materials. They include a crystal vase that was a wedding gift to his mother in 1947, glass top hat, art deco mat, his baby bowl, something he bought with Janet Jackson, a book of flowers he found in Italy that he 'brought for Nick', that one being Nick Knight obviously. His friend Princess Julia is playing the music to keep viewers entertained while he wait.

Oh, he's back! And he's wearing a three-piece black suit with a Santa hat that has flashing lights on the furry trim, and an equally festive white and red dotty shirt. He's fun, eh? 

You can't miss this, he's an amazing story teller and just wonderful to listen to and watch, and he's full of all kinds of flower arranging tips and then some. See him here

 

Showstudio Interview: In Fashion, Stephen Jones

 

You will well know my love of Showstudio and Alex Fury's recent interview with Stephen Jones (do I need to introduce him as the most accomplished and influential milliner of the past three decades?) is one example of why. How many interviews get your heart racing on aethetics alone? Not to say that the words and thoughts of this man of many hats aren't an absolute delight - he gives probably the most enjoyable interviews of anyone I admire and this is one of them - but they do look great. The directors resist becoming seduced by their own cleverness and losing focus on the point of the inteview - extracting wonderful stories from their subject who in this case is the lovely Stephen Jones, who recounts significant moments from his life in fashion.

He also discusses the context around his hats as they pertain to fashion's most influential designers with whom he has longstanding working relationships (but says nothing of the fact that he looks a bit like my uncle Roger).

Karl Lagerfeld (when he was at Chloe): "He was the only designer in Paris who was using hats. He was the one person who saw how a hat on a runway makes a very special notation or focus."

Jean Paul Gaultier: Months after being asked to model in one of his Paris shows (and not being able to due to a motorbike accident), Gaultier and Jones watched a film of the show together. Gaultier then asked him to design the hats for his menswear collection. This became Stephen Jones' first season in Paris and caused him to fall out of favour with the British Fashion Council, who he told to 'bugger off'!

John Galliano: "John works in a very character driven way. He will create this extraordinary story of somebody and it will be a person, a simple muse, in his head and he will create a storyline around her. The hats will fit into parts of the storyline, they'll be almost a punctuation within the storyline of the clothes."

Rei Kawakubo: When I get a brief from her it will normally be by fax, which I love, and it will be a few words written down. Maybe she'll do a little sketch, maybe she'll just say 'I don't know', and that will be the brief. She doesn't want me to undestand what she wants." (This story is particularly noteworthy if you're interested in Rei's creative process.)

Marc Jacobs: "We'll have a conversation. I remember the third season I worked with him he said 'There are two ladies going shopping in Italy. Florence or Rome? Rome. Will they have lunch? Yes. Are they going to Ferragamo or Gucci? No no no, they're going shopping for fine leather gloves.' I said 'Ok, I'll design a hat to go with that.'"

You can watch the interview here.

 

 

The New Swelle Boutique has Arrived!

At long last, the new Swelle Boutique is here! As mentioned previously, the first version was a temporary look and format to get my first collections launched. The new site allows for more content and ease of navigation, and it's slicker but still embodies that dreamy Swelle aesthetic - of course it does! I can't do anything else!

More pretty pieces are on their way including dresses for holiday parties from Rowanjoy and Wholly Cow and gorgeous feather and chain earrings and neckpieces by Noémiah.

A Swelle label is in the works as well for spring with a few preview pieces coming in the next few weeks. I love dresses, coats and jackets so expect a lot of those!

Georgia Hardinge SS11: La Belle et la Bete

 

I came upon the sculptural and delicately textured creations of Georgia Hardinge at London Fashion Week's exhibition at Somerset House and somehow resisted the urge to rub my face in a sleeve of soft rufffles made of layers upon layers of chiffon ribbon. The London designer's debut catwalk collection ‘La Belle et la Bete’ is in reference to the muse for the collection, Jean Cocteau. Georgia takes inspiration from the surrealism and mystique of his narrative style, combining ideas from French Baroque and romanticism through to early punk. Yes, there's a lot happening here, and it's all harmonious, exquisite and wearable.

 

 

 

 

Lookbook photos courtesy Georgia Hardinge, others by Denise Grayson

Cooperative Designs SS 2011: Bollywood Babylon

  

Please bear with me - I'm still catching up on London Fashion Week posts!

Upon entering the Cooperative Designs SS 2011 presentation at the Groucho Club, I felt as if I'd walked into a scene from Henry and June - if Maria de Madeiros and Uma Thurman had been wearing knitwear in Indian desert hues with leather and stud accessories in their 1920s Paris salons. A barefoot model in a striking graphic monochrome dress was playing a lively ragtime tune on the piano in the art deco-ish room which added to the charm of the scene. And it was a scene.

There's always one face that stands out amongst the models and most keep their observations to themselves (it's so banal to notice the models), but there was one major exception here: an utterly enchanting woman in her 60s or maybe even 70s who was the talk of the room and would have stolen the show had it not been so rich and robust in colour, texture and style:

 

Hang on, I'm not done yet...she's too awesome:

 
Two of the girls were talking with their heads together and it reminded me of, again, Henry and June:

 

 

 

 

 

The official transportation of Bollywood Babylon?

  Photos by Denise Grayson @ The Swelle Life 

Curiosities from London Fashion Week

 

Fred Butler in blue at the Cooperative Designs presentation at Groucho Club

These are some photo bits and bobs from London Fashion Week, interesting things beyond the shows, presentations and exhibitions - more to come on those, I'll wrap it up eventually!

Eley Kishimoto's event Flash On Week at Shoreditch Studios showcased product collaborations using various incarnations of the print duo's iconic 'Flash' design, first seen in 2001. Looks like I arrived too late and missed Mark Eley speaking about this project, but there's a great synopsis of the event at Amelia's Magazine.

 

I couldn't help but notice these two fabulous friends paying homage in head-to-toe Eley Kishimoto:

 

It's not every day you get sprayed by giant, walking fragrance cannisters:

 

More Fred Butler being her awesome self. It was a blue day as you can see. Update from Fred's blog: She wore a blue cord bustier and circle bag by threeASFOUR worn over vintage dress and Alistair Carr padded bomber jacket. 

And the following photos were taken before or after the Felder Felder and Hannah Marshall shows, starting with one that's a bit blurry due to me spinning around to catch the noisy, frenzied exit by Paloma Faith and pals:

 

I'm getting a Centurion-Cleopatra-Xanadu vibe here. Come on, you know the one.

Kanye West's ex-front-row companion, Amber Rose, made her exit through the backstage door. I'm not sure why since you wind up in the same place as the people who left from the front. And she was only too happy to pose, as you can see. Does anyone know what she does? Just curious. The chain belt is current season Felder Felder, by the way.

 

 

And Erin O'Connor, who was one of the very few who could pull off flats at Fashion Week, and willingly at that (you get the feeling most would rather die than be seen walking and standing comfortably):

Photos by Denise Grayson @ The Swelle Life

Orla Kiely SS 2011: Stiff Models, Adorable Dresses and Cake Lollies

Orla Kiely presentations at London Fashion Week are always a treat, quite literally. Not only are the clothes pure eye candy, but this time the print mistress had a sweet-faced 'cigarette' girl serving popcorn in pink retro (of course) cups and the most delicious things I've ever tasted - cake lollies. I wasn't the only one who thought so. A young girl I was standing next to in Orla's tiny cinema was eating one and asked me "Have you had one of these? They're sooo good! I'm on my third one!" That decided it, I didn't need to feel shame for wanting to go back for seconds. Besides, I had already endured being laughed at by two guys who were watching me go to town on one of those popcorn cups. I hadn't eaten anything all day (this somehow happened last season, too) and after some champagne I was desperate. So I stood there with a cup and I ate it all the way to the bottom. It's not like my face was buried in it and popcorn was flying everywhere in a ravenous frenzy (well, only for a moment), but still I must have looked like a freak - hardly anyone even touches the food which is nuts! - but you can't take pictures while holding popcorn so I had no choice. It was use it or lose it!

Moving on....Orla Kiely opted for cardboard cutouts of models wearing the collection to the real deal. That's one way to keep the whining about sore feet in high wooden heels to a minimum. But it worked. Her venue at Somerset House is the Portico Rooms, and she transforms the main room into Orla Kiely headquarters. This time she constructed a cinema, complete with theatre seats, to show her collection and the spirit of it through a film by Gia Coppola - yes, she's related. It took us back to 1960s London, leaving the ochres, oranges, browns and moss greens of the 70s behind (a palette I typically loathe yet I love Orla Kiely without exception), in favour of a rose and mint-green tinted world. There were cupcakes and pretty teacups, ponytails and hair ribbons. It all served to strengthen my resolve that I am indeed a girly-girl. No apologies!

 

Orla Kiely

 

Photos by Denise Grayson @ The Swelle Life

LFW: Felder Felder 'Born to be Wild'

 

'Born to be Wild' was the name of Felder Felder's SS 2011 collection, inspired by 'an imaginary muse, a rebellious downtown girl fascinated by the free spirit era of Easy Rider, The Trip and the Lizard King, Jim Morrison."

Whatever Annette and Dani Felder do, it's cool. Leather and studs have been a big part of their signature look and they figured here as well. The leather, black and electric hues of blue and pink, were slashed up exquisitely like twisted slats on jackets and pants - the texture echoed on printed dresses - while the studs came in the form of metallic flecks to add soft, pretty texture to leather and chiffon. A collaboration with ic! Berlin on sunglasses also featured Felder Felder's unique studding.

By this point it's apparent that no wardrobe is complete without a piece of Felder Felder - I still can't get their leather and chiffon jacket from AW 2010/11 out of my head!

Felder Felder showed back to back with Hannah Marshall and drew a frenzied crowd that included Paloma Faith in some crazy gold and black headgear (see below, left), Erin O'Connor, and Kanye West's ex-front row companion, Amber Rose. Curious photos will follow...

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 Photos by Denise Grayson @ The Swelle Life

LFW: Hannah Marshall's Sublime SS 2011

 

I posted the beauty shots from backstage at Hannah Marshall the other day and mentioned that the eye makeup followed the sequence of the clothes which transitioned from black to lightest grey, which you can see below. I only saw the sheer, black outfits backstage so when I went out to watch the show I was super delighted to see the exquisite sculptural details on the grey pieces, some of light chiffon in lush layers like the underside of a mushroom, others more rigid and of a heavy cotton, it appears. A rectangular piece on the back of one otherwise backless dress reminded me of angel wings. The clothes were simple and feminine with emphasis on texture, through the mix of fabrics which also included suede in the form of a harness in the opening look, and the glorious 3-D pleated details. No accessories necessary. I loved this collection and will follow Hannah Marshall closely from here on. She's proven that the hype around her is justified.

 

 

 

 

Photos by Denise Grayson @ The Swelle Life

LFW: Jena.Theo's Bandoliers

I just returned from three inspiring and tiring days at London Fashion Week which were filled with little delights and surprises (more on that later). My first show was Jena.Theo, their second collection since wowing Donatella Versace and winning Fashion Fringe 2009. As you can probably gather from my photos, what I love most about Jena.Theo's shows are the views from behind. That sounds pervy so let me explain. Jenny Holmes and Dimitris Theocharidis like to play with volume by layering soft fabrics in their quest to create multi-functional designs that can be re-arranged to create different outfits. While there is more than enough to capture our attention in front, it's the action in the back that has me captivated - probably because we're not usually treated to detail in such abundance. And it makes for an eyefull of a profile, too. You wouldn't dare cover these clothes with a coat.

The India-inspired 'Bandoliers' collection is filled with all kinds of special details such as handcrafted Indian trim, structured silk turbans, Victorian corsetry - a nod to 19th century British colonialism, splashes of handpainted colour on pastel-hued denim, raw painted gold leaf stiletto platform shoes and 'bandolier' belts and trims. I'm pretty sure the models weren't packin', though.

 

 

 

 

  Photos by Denise Grayson @ The Swelle Life

What's Your Shoe Story?

 

To get everyone revved up for The Shoe Galleries, a shoe fanatic's fantasy come true courtesy of Selfridges, they want your shoe story. And for your contribution you may just win a years supply of shoes! You won't be competing with me; unfortunately my only shoe stories involve whining, blisters, cuts, friends asking 'Do you own any shoes you can actually walk in?' and limping in bare feet on city streets with a grimace on my face and naughty words spewing from my mouth, because all of my favourite shoes have it in for me. Despite their disloyalty, I still love them. Maybe my daughter will have better luck with them one day.

The Shoe Galleries is due to be the single biggest shoe destination in the world, showcasing 150 designers with 55,000 pairs of shoes in stock at any one time and 4,000 pairs on display. That should increase my chances of at least one pair loving me back?

Part of the inspiration for The Shoe Galleries was the idea that everyone has a shoe story, whether it stems from your favourite pair, a hidden gem or your first expensive pair that cost a month's rent. Tell yours to Selfridges and not only will you get to shout about your favourite shoes to the whole world, but you could be in with a chance of winning a gorgeous new pair (one winner every week!). Plus one lucky winner will scoop a year's supply of shoes from Selfridges!

Daphne Guinness has already submitted hers and it sheds light on why she was wearing those Alexander McQueen 'reptilian' shoes in the first place - which were several sizes too big - and surprisingly she swears they were very light and comfortable! We won't get the chance to call her bluff so let's just take her word for it, shall we?

You can enter by submitting your shoe story here

The Shoe Galleries open on the 23rd September

 

Above is just one view of this shoe paradise, and Selfridges' Director of Accessories Sebastian Manes describes what The Shoe Galleries will look like when complete:

"Imagine you are in a gallery. From the entrance you see a succession of doorways, and at the end a huge window flooding the space with daylight. Your journey begins at the front, with shoes from the best of the high street. Slowly you begin to travel through different galleries until you reach the end - the couture designer gallery, flanked by Chanel and Louboutin, and a vision of Eden - the new suspended garden at Selfridges. Shoe heaven!"

And don't forget to grab some Pierre Hermé macarons on the way out!

The Gorgeous Gardens of Cragside Pt. 2 (Plus a Really Cool House)

Carrying on from yesterday's garden post here are more flowers from our visit to Cragside's formal garden and photos of the house itself which I find hard to believe was built in 1863 but my husband doesn't.

 

 

 

Being afraid of heights I got a bit freaked out walking on the foot bridge which you can see in the middle below, but it was the only way to the house from where we were. It's not terribly high so I looked like quite a wuss.

This is our house. That's what I would be saying if I was Lord Armstrong, if he was still alive. It's built into a rocky hillside above a 4 km² forest garden. And you thought you had a lot to prune. Having seen it we can't fathom the maintenance. We took the scenic route out of there and drove for about 10 minutes, trying not to scrape the sides of the car against the rocks, before we were finally out. It is a truly stunning and awesome landscape.

 

 

The house boasts a sandstone rock garden that is said to be Europe's largest.

 

The Gorgeous Gardens of Cragside

 

Last weekend we took a drive through Northumberland to Cragside House, Gardens and Estate, a National Trust heritage site. We'd heard it was one of the most beautiful sites in the area if not England, and quickly remedied having been ignorant of it for so long.

We didn't have time or the energy to go inside the house which is like a modern castle (it's Victorian but that's modern in English terms). To get around the estate grounds requires a bit of hiking skill or at least hardy footwear, so I'll save the history of the intriguing Lord Armstrong for when do see inside this house of magic - the industrialist had the first home to be lit by electricity thanks to his inventive and resourceful nature.

This is a cottage on the grounds near where we had lunch (at which point I remembered that the Wolford cropped leggings I was wearing weren't fully opaque - especially when stretched thin ie. over the bum - and I was wearing a short baby doll dress over them and it was windy. And we were hiking up hills. Well, at least I wore the right footwear.)

The landscape is so lush and there were blossom bushes everywhere. Stunning, but allergy pills are a must next time. I got off easy with a few sneezes.

  

 

I took these at the formal gardens. Its beauty lies in the close-ups; it's not so much a garden that is constructed for grand scenery but rather for its individual elements, like this koi pond complete with lily pads:

 

 

 

There was a little strip of garden along one wall that had the loveliest variety of flowers...

 

...which I will continue in the next post with some photos of the amazing house and its 'largest in Europe' rock garden!

Gone...But Not Forgotten

Gone...But not forgotten from Laura Seymour on Vimeo

If you're a professional or amateur photographer (who isn't these days?), film maker or music composer residing in Europe you may want to consider submitting your best work to Hitachi G-Technology's Driven Creativity competition. Winners and runners-up will be awarded innovative G-Technology drives and the overall winner will receive €5,000 to fund their next project. You can enter until September 30th, 2010 here

Entries are judged not merely on aesthetics but also on the inventiveness used to get your result. One stellar example is Laura Seymour's Gone...But Not Forgotten submission for the film category. It's got it all: technological wizardry to wow you, music to engage you and enough sunny sentimentality in the visuals to leave you feeling that everything is right with the world.

How did she do it?

"Asked by composer Richard Anthony Jay to create a video piece for his track 'Gone...but not forgotten' incorporating super8mm footage, I was inspired by the wealth of public domain archive footage online and decided to attempt to make an animation solely using this footage, and still imagery also sourced online. This involved a long process sourcing the materials, then compositing a massive tabletop composition in Photoshop before then bringing into After Effects to animate one camera over the table-top and all the elements within that needed to move at set times in time with the music. As the concept is about memory, families and capturing the stories of people from times now gone across the four corners of the table, the important thing was also to portray a different aesthetic/finish for each area of the table using filters and colouring to recreate different film stocks. I used the Magic Bullet colouring suite 'Looks' to achieve this in Final Cut Pro."

(If you're reading this in an email subscription click the title of this post to see the video.)

Belsay's Extraordinary Measures, Indeed

Ron Mueck's Drift. 2010

Belsay Hall, Castle and Gardens has quickly become one of my favourite places in England, or anywhere else for that matter. My first visit in April resulted in some fantastic photographs thanks to Belsay's various photogenic, magical muses, both permanent and ephemeral. English Heritage began using the historical site's attractions to host full-scale art exhibitions in 1996 such as Fashion at Belsay - which included Stella McCartney's crystal horse housed in the medieval castle, fortunately back for a reunion when I visited - as well as 2007's stunning Picture House project featuring an installation by Viktor & Rolf.

Belsay's latest art exhibition, Extraordinary Measures, showcases the work of some of England's most  ingenious and curious creative talents. Each handpicked artist visited the site to gain inspiration, then set to work with the central idea of scale in mind. The exhibition as a whole has a kind of shrinking and growing effect, something like an Alice in Wonderland experience with malevolent insect fairies and fish-bashing babies in place of the murderous Queen of Hearts. While much of the exhibition will bring a smile to the observer's face, equal parts will strike a nerve in their own peculiar ways.

I was lucky as Stella's Spot to be invited to their press which included an introduction by curator Judith King, a short film, and tour of each of the installations which were most times explained by the artists themselves as nearly all were present.  

Extraordinary Measures runs at Belsay Hall, Castle and Gardens until September 26th in Northumberland. There's a warning about nudity (the same goes for this post!) and strobes which accompany Mat Collishaw's zoetrope in the castle. Pity for anyone who can't watch as it's the most impressive piece of the exhibition, in my opinion.

Here are my photos from the day, beginning with one of my feel-good favourites, Slinkachu's miniature reproductions of rather normal events made curious by the incongruency of their settings. The actual installations were set up last year throughout the gardens and grounds and Slinkachu photographed them to preserve what was the most fleeting part of the exhibition - they were left to be snatched up by the hawk-eyed or carried away by animals or the wind. So in the place of the figures are the photographs.

 

 

 

Tessa Farmer's A Darker Shade of Grey was one of the most bizarre things I've ever seen. I felt sick looking at it, yet it was the installation I took the most pictures of. What I'm showing here is the most palatable of the work; it was actually the crispy insect carcasses and not so much the taxidermied rodents that elicited the visceral response. There is something morbidly fascinating about dead animals, especially ones arranged in battle scenes and adorned with crab shell armour with scorpion artillery fighting malevolent insect fairies.

Come again? Fair enough. Farmer's narrative centres on the war between the Northumberland native red squirrel and the outsider, the grey squirrel who is apparently kicking red's fluffy tail. With the help of the skeletal insect fairies who think their grey foreign counterpart shouldn't be penalised for being successful. There's a metaphor in there somewhere but after hearing Farmer speak about her work I don't believe there's a hidden message, it's simply a dramatised version of conflict between two species.

This reminds me that I saw a skinned whole squirrel at the food market last weekend, marked with a stuffed toy version so you'd know what it was. I would rather eat the stuffed animal.

 

There was a bit of condensation in some of the glass cases from the rain - the hazy effect is not me trying to impart a dreaminess on this scene, especially as it was more of a nightmare! This mouse is being attacked by a militia of the bug-riding malevolent fairies made from insect parts - it looks like they're holding bayonets! 

No animals were sacrificed for the sake of art. Farmer purchased the taxidermied squirrels and rodents from Ebay, the red squirrels being of Victorian origin. You really can get anything on there. A journalist asked after taking in the full spectrum of the painstakingly fashioned scene,'Why go to all this trouble, wouldn't it be easier to just paint?' And then the artist ordered the evil fairies to descend upon him and poke his flesh relentlessly with their tiny, crude weapons. At least that's what I feared might happen when I heard the question. Oh, Dude.

  

Scalesdale is an interactive, evolving model village located in the castle kitchen created by Newcastle architects Jenny Gillat and Tim Mosedale. Visitors will decide how the community develops.

Mat Collishaw's The Garden of Earthly Delights is just the coolest thing. It's a zoetrope or spinning wheel that runs for 90 seconds at a time (I think), and in that short span you are mesmerised and disturbed by the scene that appears to be unfolding in front of you. I say 'appears' because those babies whacking fish with clubs to a soundtrack of layered, unnerving noises that is giving me shivers as I recall it now (I'm serious, real shivers which is odd because it's more creepy to me in memory than it was in person) aren't really moving at all. It's like an animation. Me and the journalist next to me didn't realise that they weren't moving until he asked a question and was told so. I don't know how Collishaw configured and callibrated the zoetrope to create such a compelling effect, but he's done a few of these so the man has certainly mastered the task.

 

 

Woodland Unhappy Families by Freddie Robins is an homage in yarn to the classical Greek architecture that inspired Belsay Hall. Set behind a window nestled in the quarry gardens, two knitted birds play the characters in a sorrowful tale of love and loss from Greek mythology.

 

Wild Horses by Ciaran Treanor was made possible thanks to his award of the Belsay Fellowship in 2009 that enables a young, emerging artist to participate in the major contemporary art exhibitions at Belsay. The Newcastle University architecture student referenced Belsay's stables outside the castle for his installation of gestural figures that, from specific vantage points, appear as running, jumping horses.

Ron Mueck is a master at creating utterly convincing sculptures of the human figure. Here he has placed his various 'people' (and one giant chicken) within the rooms of Belsay Hall to play with scale. Standing next to Spooning Couple was a fascinating experience. Observations of how real the two look and how sweet they are juxtaposes with the fact that they are obviously not real as they are less than half the size of adult humans. But you want to believe they are. And you can't help but want to put some pants on the guy.

 

This was certainly disconcerting. I first felt as if I should just let the poor guy be naked in privacy, he looked so uncomfortable (yes, I was aware he wasn't real, he's nearly 10 feet tall sitting - those are some high ceilings in that house). But the emptiness of the room was actually quite inviting, the contrast to the feeling one would get sharing a small, low-ceilinged room with the giant Wild Man. Now that would be uncomfortable.

 

(Sorry for pointing that thing at you.)

Youth, Ron Mueck.

 

A giant panel of windows in the Quarry Garden is an awesome sight to behold. Mariele Neudecker's From Here to There is Not That Far is an ambitious undertaking that was well worth the effort. It was a bit surreal, walking through its doorway felt as if I was passing over into another dimension which is what the artist intended; in developing the idea she was drawn to the moment in Alice in Wonderland where Alice passes through one reality to another, entering a rich and luscious garden.

Photos © The Swelle Life

Judy Blame's Monochrome Day at Showstudio

Judy Blame is the latest resident at Showstudio to spend a day being filmed and livestreamed while making original, one-off creations. An absolute treat of a feature, I think. It's a wonderful thing to see the creative process in action and it's fascinating to watch the individual's face as they do their thing, all the subtleties of expression that can range from satisfaction to frustration (Gareth Pugh was giving his sewing machine the business at one point) and everything in between. Which makes it a real burn that I forgot to watch today! (Been just a little busy).

The legendary London-based stylist, jeweller and accessory designer who has it bad for buttons and badges contributed two pieces to Showstudio's Blackwhite exhibition. Viewers watched him "stitch and adorn a pearly king's titfer" - that's not something you hear every day - and rework and develop a rather extreme neckpiece that would require a great deal of inspection to fully take in everything happening within the black and white curiosity. (My silly tendency to identify things as offspring of incongruent parents has me thinking the necklace could be the result of a collaboration between Mr. T and Karl Lagerfeld.)

 

Now that's a cool looking man. The neckpiece and adorned cap will be soon be available in the Showstudio SHOP. And if you're into Gaga you might want to head over to the site, she's practically lived there for the past month.

The Hauntingly Beautiful Dollhouses of Wallington, Pt. 2

 

Carrying on from Tuesday's post on the enchanting dollhouses of Wallington, here are more rooms with unbelievable detail, like the little buckets under the shelf in the pantry on which several plates of food are waiting, as if the family is about to sit down and eat at any minute. Or how each of the mirrors and picture frames are completely different and highly ornate as was the style at the time.

If you enjoy these, well good! There are lots more from the Wallington house to come...

 

The Hauntingly Beautiful Dollhouses of Wallington, Pt. 1

 

I'm working like a mad woman to launch Swelle Boutique (it's nearly there!) but I wanted to leave you with something special should it be a couple days before I'm able to post again. I visited Wallington a few weeks ago, a National Trust property in Morpeth, Northumberland (that's in the north east of England) with a grand mansion and gorgeous lawns, lakes, parkland and woodland. There's also a beautiful walled garden which we didn't have time to see, but it was cold and gloomy so we'll save that for a lovely day.

I'll tell you more about Wallington in future posts (there is quite a bit to show) but for now here is the first part of the dollhouses from the 17th century mansion's dollhouse room which contains one huge house - like an apartment block - and several smaller ones, the interiors of which are magnificent and shabby all at once. The detail of the period furniture and decor (early 1900s) is breathtaking and some of it is in quite a state of disrepair - evident in the wear on the fabrics and wallpapers and headboards askew - and it creates the feeling that these rooms have actually been lived in by the heavy chested tenants (see below, they are heaving!) for the past century. The effect is utterly charming.

The photos are a bit blurred, the rooms in the dollhouses were very dim and I was shooting through their tiny windows. But it kind of lends to the ghostly feeling and apparently I'm lucky to have had the opportunity to take the photos, it's only been a year since they've allowed cameras. 

Want to see more? Here's Part 2

Scenes from Bristol, the Pastel Painted City

After three posts about Bath (here for an adorable cupcake shop, here and here) I finally get to my shots of Bristol, from my trip down to the south west of England last weekend to visit my brave friend Sophie. I call her 'brave' not only because she shared a room with me for three nights but because she just posted and tagged me in a photo on Facebook of me riding a mosaic pig in Bath. I don't recall signing a waiver!

Anyway, Bristol is a really cool city. It's very diverse ethnically (for a British city) and it's got a buzzing kind of energy. It's very green and on our way to brunch on my last day Sophie took me through a forest  across the street from her house that was just magical. It had wildflowers all over and a stream flowing through it and I swear I saw fairies fluttering by and everything, singing in Bristolian accents. Of course my camera was packed away tightly in my suitcase as I was on my way back home and hadn't a clue of what earthly delights lay ahead of me (and I was trying not to be annoying with my camera on my last day, the other person always has to wait while you get your shots), but I have a project for next time. 

I especially loved all of the pastel-painted houses. Every city should have pink, yellow and baby blue buildings. It's the right thing to do. Who doesn't want to live in the land of Edward Scissorhands?

 

 

A Banksy left over from his exhibition

Definitely Banksy, but with paint splatters of unknown origin added fairly recently:

I thought the splats looked stylised and intentional - look at the blue one in the hanging guy's armpit. That's not random. Not sure who put them there (why would Banksy do this?) but care was taken, this wasn't some wiener shooting paint balls from the street. Some wiener with a ladder, maybe? 

 

 

(Banksy's tag beneath. But NOT Banksy in the lower right. Maybe THAT'S the wiener!)

 

 

 

 

 

We saw these two girls in costumey hats, struggling with their big old suitcases down the street. As they were fumbling they rambled on with a curious drone like two Marlas from Fight Club,that nutter of a character that Helena Bonham Carter played. I knew I had to take a photo. After I said 'thanks' and began to walk away one of them said "Make tea not war." Good thing she did, I've now cancelled my cruise missile testing in favour of a nice cup of Earl Grey.

 

I tripped right about here, nearly took a header. In front of a group of people, of course. I've lived here for years now and still those uneven stones get me every time I go out of the house, they're all over England! I consider them a threat to national security, something must be done! 

The breathtaking view of the suspension bridge from the back patio of a bar in Clifton, the most beautiful part of Bristol. 

Drinks and scenery.

 

 

Rowanjoy's Dreamy, Romantic Dresses at London's Alternative Fashion Week

One of my favourite designers and contributor to the soon to be launched Swelle Boutique, Rowanjoy, will be selling her gorgeous dresses, skirts and new line of handprinted art deco t-shirts - all one-offs! - at London's Alternative Fashion Week, April 19 -23 at Spitalfields market from 11 am - 5 pm. If you're in town, treat yourself to a visit to her lovely stall!

The beautiful image above is from a past collection but gives insight into the dreamy and romantic aesthetic that Rowanjoy consistently delivers each season, using the loveliest vintage fabrics and trims. For Swelle Boutique she's created two dresses with soft peachy silks mixed with contrasting cotton prints and lace panels, and an outfit of a skirt with a polka dot tulle ruched overlay and a grey marl t-shirt handprinted with a green art deco design, printed fabric inserts, with lace and tiny rhinestone embellishments - each piece one of a kind and handmade by the designer. Lookbook photos are imminent and I can't wait to give you a preview!

The Delicious Miss Dahl: Melancholy and Bitchery

The people are divided over The Delicious Miss Dahl. Criticism of its lovely host, Sophie Dahl, her show, and the BBC is being served in a merciless manner as is the British way (which can produce the most hilariously cutting jabs but in this case I'm highly sympathetic to the receiver). Foodies are slamming her methods and her recipes and the BBC's decision to focus on an ex-model amateur cook - she doesn't claim to be a skilled cook and in this week's episode even admits "I won't win any Michelin stars"- while others are accusing her of trying to outdo Nigella. Why? Because they're both hot and apparently that's not allowed to happen twice. Funny though, while she's being accused of using her siren ways the same people are blasting her for taking dainty bites of her cooked food and not going to town on a spoonful of rice pudding. Can you imagine what that would look like and the outrage that would ensue if she did? She's wise to avoid Nigella territory - there's room for only one lady TV chef who makes mouth whoopee to a spoonful of lemon curd.

But the most childish reaction was the sour grapes tantrum from Giles Coren, food critic and presenter of BBC2's The Supersizers Go (never seen it. He looks extremely constipated in the photo I saw so he might want to start adding prunes to his recipes for a good week and not make any plans to leave the house.)

According to the Daily Mail, in addition to calling the show "a sickening sham" among other expletive-laced insults, he spewed on Twitter: "She leans in takes one WEENY bite with her finger cocked in the air, and then you just KNOW she gobs it out off camera." Dude, did you really publicly accuse her of having an eating disorder? Beyond that, she's clearly expressed on the show and in her book how important food, cooking, and in her own words 'eating it' are to her and the ritual family meal times played in her childhood. To boldly imply that she can't manage to swallow even a bite of food she's prepared from her own recipe you've completely and utterly undermined her character as a person. You may think you know food, Mr. Coren, but as a man you are truly without taste. 

And the rest of the brouhaha surrounds the revelation that the house, the kitchen where she cooks, is not hers. What? It's not? But I swore I saw Jamie Cullum's underpants tossed over that Cath Kidston upholstered chair! I always assume it's a set because where I'm from, across the pond, everything is contrived for effect. Okay, we all wanted it to be hers, how lovely would that be? And that's why it looked that way, because it's a set. It's a photographer's house that is rented out for shows and shoots. So those charming little recipe boxes with the handwritten titles aren't hers, nor are those perfectly propped counters, tops of cupboards (come on, dead giveway, who does that) and side tables. That romantic and dreamy garden out back? In our dreams indeed. But to become hostile over this point is just stupid and embarrassing.

And as for the popular assessment that Sophie Dahl is 'smug'? I don't read that at all. I think she's happy.

Here's the link to this week's episode 'Melancholy' which included two nice soup recipes: soul soothing chicken soup and Tom Kha (below):

Old Castles, Spring Gardens and Stella McCartney's Crystal Horse Pt. 2

Carrying on from yesterday's post (hence the 'Pt. 2' in the title), here are more photos of my visit to Belsay Hall, Castle and Gardens in Northumberland, north east England.

 The stables at Belsay

Belsay Hall is an early 19th century mansion with a Greek doric style slanted roof. It's not the most gorgeous of exteriors, it's very stark but the interiors were interesting. A family by the name of the Middletons actually lived here until 1962. It is now a proper of English Heritage.  

 

 

These Delft tiles lined both sides of the fireplace in one of its large rooms

Belsay Hall from the rear

The scenery from the side of the mansion:

 

Back to Belsay castle, a 14th century medieval castle. The main structure, a substantial three storey rectangular pele tower with rounded turrets and battlements was constructed about 1370, and was the home of the Middleton family. I cannot believe people lived in this, oh how mighty cold it must have been (see photos below). Future generations of the family resided here until the early 19th century when they built and moved into Belsay Hall. 

I have no idea what this is, it was in the ruins part of the castle. Some kind of oven? Maybe Wendy Brandes will know.

The spiral staircase from beneath

This is the room where Stella McCartney's crystal horse was displayed

You could go out onto the roof by the turret and take in the view of the countryside.

The view from the top. Those white specs on the grass are sheep.

 

 

I am going to have to do those glorious gardens in another post as this one is getting long, but I have to show you more of Lucky Spot, the horse that was conceived of by Stella McCartney as part of English Heritage's project to transform Belsay in 2004. It is made of 8,000 Swarovski crystals and when the light floods in through the medieval windows the crystals produce brilliant prismatic patterns across the walls.

 

 

 

I've gathered some images of the other installations that were commissioned for this project and I'll post those tomorrow. It includes Viktor & Rolf.

Old Castles, Spring Gardens and Stella McCartney's Crystal Horse Pt. 1

Today we took advantage of a gorgeous spring day and went off to explore some of the beautiful Northumberland countryside. We drove to Belsay Hall, Castle and Gardens and I think I may have stumbled upon paradise. (I thought I found it when I went to Maui but it seems to exist way up here in the north east of England, too.) I just got a new camera and this was the perfect place to try it out, the gardens were spectacular and flooded with mid-afternoon sunlight. 

  
A room in the cellar of Belsay Hall, an early 19th century mansion

 

Belsay Castle. The turret part of the castle is 700 years old

 

And this image below is a bit of a teaser, I have so much more to show from this piece and the project itself. It's an installation conceived by Stella McCartney as part of a project involving thirteen British creatives that was commissioned by English heritage to transform Belsay in 2004. More on that tomorrow!

All photos by Denise Grayson

A Happy Easter with Spring Butterflies

Happy Easter! Spring and Easter go hand in hand and butterflies are my favourite harbinger of sunny days and warm weather (well, in England we can at least hope). I grew up in Canada in Southern Ontario and when I was very young my family moved to a new town. The subdivision where we bought our house was still largely undeveloped, there were many wide open fields and those were the days where you could call on some friends and go off and play all day long and explore the neighbourhood. It was spring time and there were butterflies fluttering everywhere - in the fields, in our back yard, as you walked through the streets. My parents bought me a butterfly net and while I don't recall catching any (lucky for them!) I had lots of fun trying (or maybe I cried in frustration, that's more plausible).

Now, these may not be real butterflies as pictured above but they are beautiful all the same. This is a piece from Su Blackwell's breathtaking exhibit that I saw in Edinburgh a while back. (I've been holding off on posting in the hopes of interviewing Su but I haven't had the time!) She cuts from old story books and creates these exquisite pop-up vignettes that are just magical, you feel as if you've been drawn into a fairytale land by merely being in their presence. 

From the very talented Lenaah's Flickr

If you like butterflies, you can read a post from my trip to the Butterfly Conservatory in Niagara Falls, Ontario a few years back here

The Delicious Miss Dahl: Romance

This week's episode of The Delicious Miss Dahl focusses on food for romance, from early courting when you're so nervous and excited that all you can manage is nibblies, to 'we know each other so well we can eat like pigs and then undo our pants and let it all hang out' type of meal. In other words, for married people.

I just have to tell a story about a 'romantic' dinner of mine. About two years ago my husband arranged a date night at home. We even dressed up. After our daughter went to bed he put out wild boar pâté, cheeses and breads, some good red wine and began making a really nice dinner of Coq au Vin. While I was eating the hors d'oevres I noticed my stomach felt a bit funny but I didn't say anything so as not to be a date night downer. Then we had the chicken which was really lovely. After that we were sitting on the couch with our wine and he says 'Uh, I don't feel so good.' I admitted I felt raunchy, too, and thus began an EPIC barf-fest which went into the night and well into the next day. We were both so sick and so weak, our bodies had never betrayed us in such a way but really they were just trying to rid us of the utter evil that had hijacked our tasty dinner. It was the worst. With our family being back in Canada there was no one to call and our daughter, only two years old at the time, had to fend for herself all morning (though I did manage to feed her of course, but no pâté or brie!). 

On that note, let's look at some food!

Scallops with a garlic and chili marinade served with crushed minty peas - get the recipe here

Rhubard and Rosewater Eton Mess - meringue topped with toasted almonds and candied rose petals (which Sophie Dahl was utterly embarrassed to have on hand!)

Cheese souffle buckwheat blinis with scrambled eggs and smoked salmon - get the recipe here

A romantic trip to the cemetery! Actually, this particular one was really beautiful and full of 'love stories'. Sophie pointed out the tombstone of Norman Warne, Beatrix Potter's publisher and secret fiance. Her parents disapproved of him and packed her off to the Lake District and told her that if she still had strong feelings for him upon return then they could think about it. And then he died suddenly while she was still away.

Beef shepherd's pie with champ (mash with spring onions and peas). Get the recipe here, and for the vegetarian version with lentils see here

If you are planning to cook for someone special, I sincerely wish you a more successful dinner than mine!

Insane for Neurotica's Black Label

Backtracking a bit...As mentioned previously my first order of the day at fashion week in London was to stop at London a la Mode's pop-up showroom in Soho, which is where I got to see those fantastic pieces from Rachel Freire. In fact everything presented at the event was a dream, including Neurotica's softly tailored collection for A/W 2009 of original print custom woven silk jersey pieces that could instantly become the clothes you live in. They were so soft I couldn't keep my hands off them, I wanted to buy some then and there. And if I wasn't in such a panic to get to Somerset House I was going to track down a piece or two.

For spring, Neurotica's Black Label collection 'Week of Wonders' draws upon fairytale imagery to create romantic and playful dresses with a bit of handsewn origami detail to bring the cicada wings to life. The illustrations are handdrawn and all pieces are handprinted in London. These are feel-good clothes through and through.

Neurotica has collaborated with designer Gemma Marissa who has created a series of one-off handknit and crochet accessories which you can see styled with the outfits. Here's a preview for A/W 2010 (more things you want to touch):

And more images from Neurotica's Black Label collection - do you not want to put these dresses on immediately?

 

Gareth Pugh's One-off Modelled by Raquel Zimmermann Rocking Out to Lady Gaga

Last November I was glued to Showstudio's livestream of Gareth Pugh creating a one-off dress right before our eyes for two long days and I have the posts to prove it. I checked back after the livestreaming had concluded, for days, but couldn't find the finished dress. I'd been dying to see what shape it had taken as it was impossible to tell exactly what it was meant to look like. He and his assistant had cut out countless shapes from the fabric using stencils in what appeared to be a monotonous and backbreaking process. Once in a while Gareth would hold up a piece of exquisitely shredded black angelskin as he was working, an inadvertent tease for those of us who were trying to piece together this couture puzzle.

When I went to Showstudio today to watch Philip Treacy follow suit and create some one-off hats (coming tomorrow) I saw that the dress was for sale in the shop and that they did a little film (of course! it's Showstudio!) to present it. Raquel Zimmermann was the model of choice, but rather than simply pose with the clothes she killed it to Lady Gaga's Pokerface. Awesome. Click the image below to watch.

 

And the price? The dress costs £7,500. Compared to $4,750 for Balmain cargo pants with fake holes in them that are priced that way just so someone like me can't buy them, I'd say that's a bargain. Comes with the film of the dress being made, too. I believe it took at least three full days to complete the dress with both Gareth Pugh and his assistant working at it. If my bum looked awesome in shredded angelskin and I had that kind of money, I wouldn't be wearing pretend beat-up cargo pants.

The Delicious Miss Dahl: 'Selfish'

 

Anyone who's been reading this blog for awhile knows how much I adore Sophie Dahl. I'm convinced that every person who comes into contact with her falls in love immediately and that she has trained herself to think of dilated pupils and goofy smiles as a part of normal human interaction in order to get through her day. She's been contributing to British Vogue and has even made reading about perfume - something I appreciate for its olfactory features and historical significance (and sometimes lovely vintage bottles) but otherwise couldn't care less about much less read about - an experience that was far beyond what any reasonable person would expect from a fashion magazine, even one as well written as Vogue. In the end it's not about the subject matter; it's the art of her story telling and how it leaves you feeling content and breathlessly inspired when her last words are left to settle gently into your brain. Rather like one of her homecooked meals I would imagine. But instead of words, fennel. And instead of brain...you get the picture.

(I know some will ask "Who is she?" In a nutshell, she's English, was discovered by Isabella Blow in the 90s and became a model, is now an author and is the granddaughter of the late Roald Dahl. If you don't know who he is then you're on your own!)

Last night on BBC Two her new cooking show The Delicious Miss Dahl debuted at 8:30 and now mine and the Tuesdays of many others just got a lot more enjoyable. This isn't yet another celebrity jumping on the cooking bandwagon - food and cooking have always played a meaningful role in her life as part of family ritual and simply as a very satisfying indulgence. And the show is beautifully produced, a treat in itself with gorgeous imagery and music, bite-size tales from history and literature courtesy of Miss Dahl herself, and even a little trip into a vintage shop to choose a 1920s art deco cocktail shaker.

The first episode is called Selfish - Sophie likes to cook according to her mood and this is her favourite breakfast, lunch, snack, cocktail, dinner and dessert as she would make it on a day that is all about what she wants, and doesn't have to share (she's honest like that).

Every Wednesday I'll feature some images from the show along with a few of the recipes. To see for yourself you can watch here - and be careful not to fall in love!

Arnold Bennett omelette - prep time: less than 30 minutes; cooking time: 10-30 minutes

Ingredients

100g/3½oz undyed smoked haddock fillet, skin on, pin boned
100ml/3½fl oz milk
knob of butter
2 fresh bay leaves
8-10 black peppercorns
2 tbsp crème fraîche
1 lemon, zest only
55g/2oz parmesan, finely grated
small bunch fresh chives, finely chopped
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
3 large free-range eggs, beaten
knob unsalted butter
2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
small handful fresh watercress
1 tbsp lemon juice

Method

1. Preheat the oven to 200C/400F/Gas 6.
2. Place the haddock fillet into an ovenproof dish, pour over the milk and add the butter, bay leaves and peppercorns.
3. Transfer to the oven and poach for 10-12 minutes, then remove from the oven and set aside to cool slightly.
4. Meanwhile, mix the crème fraîche with the lemon zest, grated parmesan and most of the chives. Season, to taste, with salt and freshly ground black pepper.
5. Heat the butter with half of the oil in a large ovenproof frying pan over a medium heat, and pour in the eggs, stirring slightly as they cook to loosen them from the sides of the pan.
6. Flake the haddock from the skin while the eggs are cooking, taking care to remove any remaining bones.
7. When the eggs are still slightly runny on top but have started to set, spread over the crème fraîche mixture, then scatter over the haddock and transfer the omelette to the oven for 4-5 minutes, or until cooked through and slightly risen. Remove from the oven.
8. To serve, drizzle the remaining oil over the watercress in a small bowl and add the lemon juice, turning to coat the leaves. Slide the omelette onto a serving plate, sprinkle over the remaing chives and arrange the dressed watercress on the side.

Buffalo mozzarella bruschetta with shaved fennel and courgette

Ingredients

½ small fennel bulb, herby tops reserved
1 small yellow courgette
small bunch fresh mint, torn into pieces
½ orange, skin removed, thinly sliced into rounds
½ lemon, juice only
3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 thick slice sourdough bread
1 garlic clove, peeled, cut in half
125g/4½oz buffalo mozzarella

Method

1. Meanwhile, using a vegetable peeler, thinly shave the fennel and courgette into strips. Place into a bowl with the mint and half of the fennel tops.
2. Add the orange slices and lemon juice and stir to combine.
3. Drizzle in one tablespoon of the olive oil and season, to taste, with salt and freshly ground black pepper.
4. Heat a griddle pan over a high heat until smoking hot.
5. Toast the bread well on both sides for 2-3 minutes, or until scorched with griddle pan marks. Remove from the pan and place on a plate.
6. Rub the chargrilled sourdough bread with the cut side of the garlic and drizzle over another tablespoon of olive oil.
7. Tear the mozzarella in half and place onto the toasted bread.
8. Pile the fennel and courgette salad on top, and drizzle over the remaining olive oil. Scatter over the reserved fennel tops.
Tip: Serve with a glass of chilled Mersault or White Burgundy wine.

Sophie goes to an antique shop and comes to a photo of a 'ballsy old broad,the sort of woman with a deep, throaty laugh like Ava Gardner or Katherine Hepburn." She goes on to quote Hepburn:

"The average Hollywood actress' ambition is to be admired by an American, courted by an Italian, married to an Englishman and have a French boyfriend." 

As an ode to the screen sirens she chooses the aforementioned 1920s art deco cocktail shaker and takes it home to make a dirty martini. You can find the recipe for 'delicious, olivey rocket fuel' here.

While making it she tells another story about 1920s writer Dorothy Parker:

"She had a rule about martinis: 'I love to drink martinis, two at the very most, with three I'm under the table, with four I'm under the host.' Be very careful unless you know your host well."

Oooh, the rich chocolate pots with brandy-soaked cherries. See the recipe here. Delicious indeed.

A Peek at How it's Done: Stitching in the Window With Miss Jacqueline White

During London fashion week We Know What You Did Last Night hosted a pop up showroom and part of the fun was being able to watch Miss Jacqueline White embroider and appliqué her fun and racy T-shirts from her debut collection through a window in a Soho studio. If you aren't familiar with the concept of her expertly embellished T-shirts that cleverly stick it to all of the up-themselves lotharios of East London, you must take a look. 

In addition to creating stage costumes for New Young Pony Club's Tahita Bulmer, Miss Jacqueline White started off her year by designing a dress for Bonnie Tyler, which gave her a total eclipse of composure when she promptly lost it and exploded with glee at the prospect. 

Alexander McQueen's Final Collection

Looking at this static collection - surely only a fraction of what was to be completed in the last four weeks for a show that was to never happen - was like being visited by a ghost. What an emotional experience. Imagine being there. I'll let WWD do the talking. Below is an excerpt from the review and you can read the full version here. 

“Each piece is unique, as was he.”  Those simple words, at the end of the show notes for the final collection by the late Lee Alexander McQueen, captured the sentiment of a singular talent extinguished too soon. The 15 showpieces that paraded slowly through a gilded salon at the headquarters of luxury titan Francois Pinault were all cut “on the stand” by McQueen in the weeks before he took his own life. In their artistry, imagination and technical wizardry, they brought his fashion spirit to life. Here was a designer with the intelligence and depth of culture to reference centuries of history, and such a forward-looking vision that some of his final messages to the world came via Twitter. A floor-length black gown — the skirt a sweep of couture satin caught in curtain folds at the hip, the bodice paved in golden rococo swirls, the sleeves erupting into three-dimensional embroideries for the “Avatar” age — captured the span of his mind and the skill of his hands.

Models do tend to look sour but there's an undeniable somber in their expressions that reads quite genuine.

Photos: WWD.com

 

Bjork Wore a Lot of Alexander McQueen, Pays Tribute

I visit Bjork's website every now and then, she's had a great online presence for many years, was innovating in binary before other artists, and now a blog takes centre stage (naturally) with all the other bits off to the side, in pretty much the same look and format as when she started. (But I find it laughable or infuriating, depending on my mood, that HER videos listed in her video gallery are blocked from broadcast as they originated from YouTube because it 'contains content from WMG who has blocked it on copyright grounds'. That's Warner Music Group. But the publisher is credited as Universal so I don't know what WMG has to do with it but I really hate it when the record companies block videos or disable embedding. Insert whatever swears you think are nastiest *here*. I go to her videos for inspiration (Bachelorette is the best), daydreaming, and to sing at the top of my lungs along with her if no one is home. So I wasn't best pleased when I discovered I could no longer see the videos I was watching for years. HOWEVER, there is a download button that will play an M4V of the videos in iTunes and the picture is huge and much more effective anyway. Sorry, but I had to rant.)

Getting back on track...Last month she paid tribute to her long-time friend and collaborator, Lee Alexander McQueen. In her very Bjork-like tribute, she said she was 'grateful' to have the chance to work with him and his team and that it was 'vital' to her development. No doubt. You can read it all here.

I recently contributed some thoughts on McQueen's passing and his career to a collaborative article by Alexis J. at iamonlinemag.com, and the day after he died I wrote a piece for Models and Moguls which you can read here. It still stings and I think it will for a long time.

Here are some of the stunningly beautiful dresses worn by Bjork throughout her career which are undeniably quintessential McQueen:

LFW - Rachel Freire's Liberated Restraint

 

I'd better explain that title. But first a little background. I wasn't able to make London designer Rachel Freire's show Future Noir last Tuesday - part of Vauxhall Fashion Scout and a designer deserving of the attention she's commanding - as I was only in town until Sunday. However, I had the opportunity to see many pieces from her A/W 2010 collection up close and personal (the rest were still on their way) at the London a la Mode Pop Up Showroom which was heaving with amazing, diverse, independent talent. More to come on that...

A quick glance at the rack and the dress form beside it was enough to clue in that these were special, impeccably detailed, handmade pieces that needed my eyeballs and fingertips all over them to see exactly what was going on here. Rachel Freire's costume design background was evident in the pieces, they displayed elements of costume in that they made you pay attention and were almost other-worldly, yet they were rooted in the kind of clothes you would wear to a really cool club. Or to dance with a lobster around your living room. The point is, the woman (or man) who wears these clothes is someone who does whatever they please!

This tulle ruffle collar leather vest was amazing from the back but I didn't get a shot. However, this screencap from the show exhibits its peacock-like effect. Funny, it's the male peacock that has the pretty tail feathers and fans them to show them off and attract females and I'm pretty sure that's a guy wearing it in the show. Rachel explores the dark sexuality of the androgynous form with this collection and had both male and female models presenting the clothes.

Now for that paradoxical title! Rachel has a thing for garments of restraint such as straight-jackets and corsetry. She incorporates zippers, ties and intricate lacing into her many of her pieces, or uses a second-skin thick latex to craft a catsuit, among other crafty tricks. Yet there's this explosion of texture worked into some of her creations that whether it be an erect spread of tulle ruffles or shredded leather all entwined and reaching out from the body, there's a distinct feeling of uncontained, wild energy emanating from the source.

 

 

This catsuit was made with reflective strips that glowed when I used my flash:

The ribbons can be arranged any way you please by using the little rubbery loops:

 

A little raw-edged ruffle jacket that offers the apocalyptic feel that Rachel explores in relation to organic elements. She uses salmon skin and stingray in her work which offers a naturally derived texture that sits mysteriously next to the more ornate surfaces she painstakingly builds with her hands.

 

This suit made of thick latex was intriguing, it zips all the way down the front and under so you can get in and then seal yourself inside:

You can view Rachel Freire's current spring collection at her website. 

London Fashion Week - Hanging Out at Orla Kiely's House

I so love Orla Kiely's fashion line. Season after season the Irish print master and accessories queen combines her original signature prints with the most adorable, smart and feminine dresses, coats and knits that never, ever miss. I want to be that girl. I am that girl, I just need the clothes! Her eight hour long presentation (complete with champagne reception, thanks for that) was set up as a very Orla Kiely-esque retro living room and something like a bedroom, minus the bed.

The shoes were also great and they looked a bit familiar. I asked a very nice journalist I met if she knew whose they were and she said 'I think they may be Topshop.' Then it clicked, I had seen these or a very similar 70s leather platform also with an embroidered upper on the Topshop site - which are of course gone now. Orla Kiely did make a brief appearance while I was there but I didn't move quick enough to catch her (champagne).  

I think Orla Kiely should sell instant living room kits. Her interiors remind me of my childhood home if I give my memories a major bit of a makeover. 

 

 

I think this bow and flower print coat was my favourite piece from the collection.

Craig Lawrence A/W 2010 Film Presentation

As the title here suggests, Craig Lawrence presented his A/W 2010 collection in film at Somerset House during London fashion week. I had actually taken a video of it myself in the darkened room which was rather unsteady and had some guy's head that was in the way for about a minute, so I was glad to see an official version of the film on YouTube and spare you the amateur version. Not having seen any of the clothes in person it's tough to comment, but we can see that outrageous knitwear is still a love of Lawrence's as his 'pompom' girl would suggest (that's what that giant shrug made of metallic strips reminds me of) as is beautifully worked, intricately lush textures. All of his pieces are handknit and Cynthia F. of The Swelle Life's Designer Series, Knitwear had a hand in assisting with the collection. I'm hoping she can fill us in the materials used, there looks to be a complementary mix of all kinds of textures and fabrics.

(Email subscribers will need to click the the title of this post to view the videos directly from the blog.)

I was going to tell you more about Craig Lawrence but this interview from last summer with Lady Gaga will give you an idea about where his work comes from, and it's more entertaining: