The Swelle Life

Tim Walker's Marvellous Tribute to Roald Dahl

Charlie and the Chocolate Factory, Actor Jamie Campbell  and Karen Elson

Continuing on with British Vogue's Fantastic Fashion Fantasy issue, Tim Walker shot an editorial tribute to the "marvellous, mischievous, magical world" of Roald Dahl, accompanied by a written piece by his great-granddaughter, model and author, Sophie Dahl. It featured Tim Burton and Helena Bonham Carter, but my favourites of this vast spread happened to not include them! What I love most about Tim Walker's photos is how he incorporates florals, especially the gorgeous flower fields he chooses so often as backdrops. I must find out where they are and run through them! (Photographed from the pages, apologies for the compromised quality):

 Charlie and the Chocolate Factory, Musician Lightspeed Champion


Karen Elson in Gareth Pugh's stylish monochrome transmission


Never smile at a crocodile...Karen Elson


Charlie and the Chocolate Factory, Georgia Jagger


Charlie and the Chocolate Factory, actor Jamie Bell and the Oompa-Loompa


James and the Giant Peach, Karen Elson and Gareth Pugh's Grasshopper


Bellville Sassoon, Sophie Drake as Miss Honey


Rhyme Stew, Karen Elson and Peter Jensen


The BFG, Sophie Drake and Alice Gibb


Revolting Rhymes, Karen Elson

Unbelievable Fashion

Left: Alexander McQueen, spring 2005
Right: 'Wood table skirt', Hussein Chalayan, A/W 2000

Christmas came early courtesy of British Vogue: the wrapping is a tri-fold cover featuring Kate Moss in clouds of Dior silk tulle (though it's the dress I fancy much more than the model) and the treats are Fantastic Fashion Fantasy-themed editorial, with such delights as Tim Walker's fields of flowers tribute to Roald Dahl; Karl Lagerfeld's painted depiction of a Secret Ball - a mysterious, exclusive event hosted by an anonymous Russian woman for her billionaire husband; winter wonderlands created using the pages of books and decorated with jewels in Spellbound; an outdoorsy, technicolour editorial shot by Patrick Demarchelier; and to begin, Unbelievable Fashion - "a vivid and memorable demonstration that fashion can be about so many things other than what to wear", shot by Nick Knight (photographed from the pages by moi, apologies for any comprised quality):

  
John Galliano silk-gazar origami, spring 2007 Dior haute couture collection

Left: Alexander McQueen, spring 2005 collection
Right: Yohji Yamamoto, A/W 2000

Both, Dior couture, spring 2003

Gareth Pugh, A/W 2006

Dior couture, spring 2003


Left: Comme des Garcons A/W 2008
Right: Viktor & Rolf, A/W 2003


Thierry Mugler's paper concertina dress, spring 1991


Hussein Chayalan's remote-control aeroplane dress, created in 1999


Left: Hussein Chalayan, spring 2000
Right: Viktor & Rolf, spring 2006

Marc Jacobs Names "Adorable" Daisy Lowe as Face of Campaign

Marc Jacobs has named the new faces of his signature campaigns. The first honour goes to runway queen Raquel Zimmerman for the women's collection, and for Marc by Marc Jacobs he's chosen Daisy Lowe, whose huge eyes and youthful looks prompted the designer to confess "I think she looks adorable."

A while back when I included a photo of 19 year-old Daisy in a post about tights, Viktor, a reader, asked "This Daisy, who is she?" Well, I'll tell you Viktor, and anyone else who wants to know.

Let's start with her lineage. Her mum is Pearl Lowe, a former indie band singer and current textile and fashion designer. (There is some juicy stuff if you want to explore further.) Her dad is Gavin Rossdale (remember that paternity thingy a few years back? Gwen Stefani must have imploded. I bet she sought solace in a thorough bleaching and an angry application of ruby lipstick). It was a one-night stand between Pearl and Gavin. Oops. But look what beauty came of it. The paternity test was simply to establish facts - dad and daughter currently have no relationship.

So Daisy grows up and up and becomes a model, a fashion icon around the UK and a fixture on "the scene." I have to say, she's out there, but it's not to the point of "ugh, not her again". I think it's due to her not making more of herself than what she is (take note, Peaches.) She recently broke up with Mark Ronson after a 6-month relationship and has done some risquè photo shoots as the face (or rather, 'parts'?) of Agent Provocateur lingerie (their stuff is kind of icky, eh? I was looking at their website one day and my husband glanced over and asked "What are you looking at???" It seems everyone poses for them eventually, right now they've got Helena Christensen and Alice Dellal, and Maggie Gyllenhaal even kitted up in garder belts for their site. I know, weird. AP is cofounded by Joseph Corrè, son of Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm Maclaren. Imagine that childhood!)

To what does she owe her appeal? I think it's as Marc Jacobs put it: she looks adorable.

 

 

Did Alexander McQueen Create The Most Figure-Flattering Dress, Ever?

Alexander McQueen's collections never fail to thrill, and his spring offerings are no exception: he's created a dress that instantly transforms the woman who wears it into a va-va-voom goddess. (I could use that right about now. You?)

His optical striped column dress in super-fine knit with pagoda shoulders sculpts a shape that does wonders for any woman looking to make the best of what she's got, and minimise that which she'd rather forget (the lengthier list). And for those more straight-figured women? Instant curves.

Net-a-porter.com is running a fantastic feature on Alexander McQueen at the moment, and it's worth taking in, especially if you're looking to gain an appreciation for the dynamic British designer. Exclusive to Net-a-porter is the Alexander McQueen SS09 private show which showcases eight designs, including the optical column dress and the stunning tuxedo pantsuit, done in white pinstripe and solid black.

This collection is "all about the masculine-feminine mix" - and the result is ALL woman. We also get a behind-the-scenes look at McQueen doing model fittings before the show and a bit on the hair and make-up, followed by a look-by-look commentary, complete with styling tips that are also handy outside of this collection.

But, even if you don't look at any of that, you MUST watch the Retrospective - it's an exhilarating look back at McQueen's 15-year design career as represented through his unrivalled, dramatic shows, including the unforgettable live and automatic finishing of Shalom Harlow's dress by two robotic - and somewhat terrifying - paint sprayers. See Alexander McQueen SS09.

Lily Cole Poses for Playboy, the 'Classy' One

British model Lily Cole has posed for Playboy. Sound like an odd move for the doll-faced, flame-haired twenty year-old? Well, according to Marie Claire UK it's the French edition, which is supposed to be more artistic and sophisticated than the U.S. version. How that is possible, I don't know.

The 60s-inspired cover photo - in which Cole is wearing nothing but white socks, hair in pig tails and ribbons and clutching a large white teddy bear - is said to be influenced by French musician Serge Gainsbourg's Melody Nelson album. That cover depicts what looks like a young teenage girl, standing there in jeans and nothing else holding a doll against her chest. Kind of crossing a line, there was a lot of that in music in France in the 60s. And it's a theme that will likely be repeated until men cease to exist or they all become gay. (FYI, in case you didn't know - Gainsbourg was married to English singer/actress Jane Birkin, who Hermès named their famed bag after. And, Birkin's daughter Lou Doillon - father is director Jacques Doillon - also did the cover of French Playboy).

Anyway, a 14-page editorial entitled Sweet Lily follows (is this grossing you out, too?), including interviews with Jean Paul Gaultier and film director Terry Gilliam, among other industry colleagues and friends - who I trust are not clutching teddies.

As for other ventures, Lily Cole gets more exposure yet as a new face of Rimmel, along with singer Sophie Ellis-Bextor. Kate Moss stays on to feature in the Rimmel London campaign. For now. And...Mossy also did a famous knickers-only, stuffed animal-hugging shot back in the early 90s when she was barely out of her teens. I would have included photos of each of these undressed teddy-clutchers, but I'm trying to keep the eeeuuw factor low on my site. Urinary tracts are okay. However, you can see Lily here

Gareth Pugh Would Sooo Freak Out the Soccer Moms

Okay, so Brit Gareth Pugh went for showpieces more than showroom for his Paris debut to ramp up an already dramatic approach to the collections and make his mark outside of London. And it worked - everyone is talking about him, thanks to the exaggerated shoulders, masterfully crafted ruffs, articulated limbs and sculpted dresses that dominated the show. Black on the back and white on the front, each of the looks was a showstopper. I feel a bit like I just watched Star Wars.

If you want to know more about Gareth Pugh, read his pre-Paris interview at DazedDigital.com

Photos: Style.com

Brits Make Pollini a Covetable Brand, Again

One last Milan post: Jonathan Saunders, who showed one of my favourite collections of New York fashion week, has taken over the design of Italian brand Pollini. He's partnered with fellow Brit Nicholas Kirkwood, an accessories designer responsible for the fabulous shoes that walked the runway for the duo's debut in Milan. Saunders replaced outgoing creative director, the London-trained Rifat Ozbek who put the brand on the map, so it seems the British perspective is working out for Pollini.

I adore Saunders' flirty dresses. Bottom line - they are just so much fun:

 

Photos: Style.com

Daphne Guinness Sets Couture on Fire

Journalist, film producer, designer, model, actress, philanthropist and the fashion icon with a killer haute couture collection, Daphne Guinness (not simply, and insultingly through omission "the socialite and heiress to the Guinness family" as per at least four blogs, never mind the cringe-worthy comparison to Paris Hilton on all, thanks to rampant plagiarism. Argh.) Um, anyway, phew! Sorry.....Right, Steven Klein shot a provocative editorial spread and cover for Vogue Italia's September issue supplement titled Future Couture, starring Ms. Guinness.

She proves to be a compelling model in this high fashion shoot which should come as no surprise; Daphne Guinness is fashion. See for yourself (and I wonder how many of these stunning creations went home with her for proper appreciation):

Model's Designer Clothing Auction Yields Some Great Bargains

British model Erin O'Connor generously donated more than 30 items from her covetable high-end clothing and accessories collection for auction at Christie's, and it seems some lucky bidders went home with a deal of the century.

The auction took place yesterday at Christie's South Kensington auction house in London to raise money for young fashion talent, and a browse through the results on their website shows it was indeed worth showing up for. Not to suggest the model was thought to be simply ridding her cupboard of designer cast-offs - a preview of the lot revealed Rouland Mouret's famed Galaxy dress in blue, and the list of labels read like a post-fashion week collections wish list, never mind gifts of Chanel from Karl Lagerfeld -  the lucky bit was that several of the stunning items went for the price of a pair of trendy jeans. A red silk Diane von Furstenberg cocktail dress sold at £138 and an Alexander McQueen dress and jacket were a steal at £250 (okay, two pairs of jeans). And there were enough Chanel and Louis Vuitton bags at (comparatively) good prices to provide thrills to some young ladies looking to start their collection.

Despite the deals, most of the items sold for at least the low-end of the estimates (which were set on the conservative side). But any chance of merely borderline success was happily quashed when the appreciation of an embroidered Ralph Lauren 'Graydon' jacket created a bidding war that resulted in a selling price almost three times the high estimate, at £1375. And shockingly, O'Connor parted with a watermelon-hued Chanel 2.55 (is she mad??), which not shockingly, fetched three times the high estimate, selling for £1500.

So, some lucky fashionistas went home with great new additions to their wardrobes and by doing so, have supported the British Fashion Council - thus helping Britain to continue to churn out more great design talent (and maybe get the Council a Web site).

London Fashion Week Wrap-up

They say the future of London fashion week is uncertain, and Anna Wintour taking a pass this time doesn't help matters. But it seems she picked the wrong one to ignore as it was a focussed and inspired display of London's newest and brightest talents (Erdem, Basso & Brooke, Sinha-Stanic, Eley Kishimoto, etc. etc. etc.). Compared to New York, which was fantastic of course, it seemed that the fewer number of London designers (50 compared to NY's 160 or so) made the most of their precious time slots to make a unique impression. All in all, I thought London was the most impactful with the range of diverse influences behind the collections, so many gave us something truly different and exciting. And more important during these trying times, it was hopeful, thanks in part to a willingness to dip into a brilliant palette and asserting a sense of humour - whereas the best of New York seemed a bit diluted by all the drab neutrals and drapery and 'safe' looks that became before and after. Still lovely, most definitely, but there was just so much of it. And there we have one of the major trends for spring so expect to see even more of it in the shops.

First off from the last of the London shows, Sinha-Stanic and their stunning dresses (and above):

 

Vivienne Westwood Red Label:



















Issa:

Erdem Shows Us What "Hyper-romantic, a bit surreal" Looks Like

Backstage at London Fashion Week, Erdem Moralioglu said of his collection "I just wanted something soft and hyper-romantic, easy but a bit surreal at the same time." Done and done. When I look at these clothes I get the same feeling that Cecil Beaton's photograph Three Models gives me - like a joyful moment in time, in some heavenly dreamscape. Let's go there:

 

 

Photos: Style.com

Basso & Brooke Yet Another London Stunner

Master printmakers Basso & Brooke took their inspiration from Japan and kept their design simple, letting their stunning collage prints take center stage, save for a bit of pleating and folding effects. The visually complex looks were finished exquisitely thanks to the carved shoes from Raouda Assaf and headpieces by famed milliner Stephen Jones. Isn't this collection beyond gorgeous? Absolutely a new favourite and one I will never, ever get to wear.

Continuing on with colours that make you feel good, this time done in minimalist, colourblock style, is Richard Nicoll. His fresh palette of tangerine, cyclamen, nude, and aqua remind me of the Art Deco hotels of Ocean Drive in South Beach. If only the people there dressed this way rather than seeing fishnets over a g-string as a good 'pants' option for serving tables in the daytime (yes, I saw a waitress wearing this as she was serving the lunch crowd).

To class things up again, Basso & Brooke (and above):

Richard Nicoll:

Photos: Style.com

Giles Gets High Score with PacMan at LFW

Yes, these PacMan helmets are just for the show but one might make a nice addition to the old hat collection. Good for the rainy weather here in the UK. In addition to goofing around with models' heads, Giles produced a strong collection of incredible sheath dresses with bold graphics, bright hues and feminine, figure-hugging shapes. There was even a bizarre PacMan and rib cage dress, if you're into 80s video games and anatomy.

Also from Day Three: Nicole Farhi showed a small collection of beautiful, romantic clothes suited for a spring picnic in the French countryside. Particularly captivating were painterly floral prints adorning the dresses, pants, skirts and tops. Dreamy.

Knitwear designer Louise Goldin blew these genteel notions out of the building with her 'remote sensor' collection, inspired by what satellites see when they look down on earth. Bordering on sci-fi costume, it's not an easily forgettable bunch of clothes. 

Back to Giles and PacMan:

 

Photos: Style.com

Nicole Farhi:

Photos: Giovanni Giannoni

Changing gears with Louise Goldin:

Photos: Style.com

Stella McCartney Could be Good for British Tennis

Adidas for Stella McCartney may be just what British tennis needs. Andy Murray is the only known British player on the tour, and there are no women to speak of. So maybe McCartney's irresistably adorable outfits will get young girls interested in hitting the courts to try smacking a few balls around. If nothing else, it certainly makes tennis at the local club much nicer to watch. The line offers something for just about any sweat-inducing activity with kit for running, gym, yoga, dance, tennis, golf and swimming. The collection was shown in 'Stella's Gym', a transformed Linley Hall in Victoria, with Olympic athletes modelling some of the looks.

Photos: Style.com

Eley Kishimoto Make the World a Prettier Place

Mark Eley and Wakako Kishimoto "fundamentally strive to make the world a prettier place" and we thank them for it! For those of us whom the idea of 'pretty' actually means something, this collection is a real treat. There's a wonderful 20s presence and the prints are lovely and gorgeous. The matching printed tights are an eyeful, but a clever way of continuing 'the pretty' on down while keeping the simple dresses short and playful. Looking at these outfits, I want to run around in fields with my arms outstretched like relieved people in an allergy commercial: