Paris Haute Couture: Givenchy, Gaultier, Valentino et Chanel

 

Valentino's super-sweet collection, nicely balanced with a bit of weighty symbolism in the form of cages and underpinnings that tie in with its title The Dark Side of First Love, comes courtesy of Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli (proving to be the right appointment?). This is the couture collection that made me squeal. The society ladies just won't know what to do with this one. 

Karl Lagerfeld indulged in moody-hued, embellished and beaded tapestries, sometimes with matching boots (not so sure about those but then, that's so Chanel). The first two looks are my favourites, they are divine:

The embellished transparency combined with the textured striping of this skirt and top from Jean Paul Gaultier really appeals to me. And I just love this photo of Karlie Kloss in the chic trench looking exactly like a designer's fashion illustration come to life. The girl is not yet 18 years old and is the most sophisticated presence on the runway, and no one walks quite like her:

 

Dita von Teese modelled two outfits for Gaultier. Now, I'm not sure what's going on here but I'll assume it's just an unfortunately timed photo and she's not actually doing the robot, or vogueing. Or both.

Riccardo Tisci doesn't want to show Givenchy couture anymore, he will only do private appointments so the clothes will be that much more exclusive. They were far enough out of my reach as they were but thanks for drawing that line in the sand a little deeper. Well, that's one way it was told. Another way is that he opted for intimate presentations so the details could be fully appreciated (I like that one better.) A quick glance is all it takes to see that these opulent dresses and jackets are rich with painstakingly complex textures that are exquisite and never extraneous, and for me, that is haute couture at its most indulgent and best. And Tisci managed to do it without using black (one chocolate brown dress and jacket was close). Bravo. 

According to Style.com's Tim Blanks "He claimed his inspiration was Frida Kahlo and her three obsessions: religion, sensuality, and, given the painter's lifelong battle with spinal pain, the human anatomy. The zipper pulls were little bones, a belt was a spinal column re-created in porcelain." I'm a bit tired of anatomy as a theme as its been done to death in recent years (how many ribs and skulls can one take?) and Schiaparelli and Dali did it way back in the 30s, but when it's interpreted this beautifully - who cares?

Those white sandals look a bit incongruent, no?

Photos Style.com

Comments

[TERI REES WANG]

Back to the birdcage, I believe.

Cheers!

[Wicked Halo]

Dita actually did a little strip, she was probably caught mid motion in this pic :) But you can check the whole bit here http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=civ59NfFCuw&feature=fvsr

But these collections were all pretty dreamy!

[Lauren]

Oh i love those shoes with the little bows, I have a pair that is kinda like that. I will have to bust them out.

[Angela]

I love the Valentino pieces. Not so in love with the Givenchy. I can see the Frida Kahlo in them, but for me, Givenchy will always mean Audrey Hepburn.

[Denise @ Swelle]

Terri - indeed!

Wicked Halo - Thanks for the link, now that makes sense!

Lauren - oh yes, you must!

Angela - I've wondered if Tisci's successor - whoever that may be, whenever that may be - will go back to the archives and revive the Hepburn style. He'd never do it in a million years and I can't help but think of when McQueen came on board at Givenchy and responded to concerns that he was moving away from the DNA with 'Audrey Hepburn is dead.' Alas, we'll always have the photos and films!

Denise ♥