Milan Fashion Week - Swelle Favourites
No, I didn't go to Milan as well. London was to be my one and only fashion week as my passport is with the UK home office with yet another application to stay here and I don't think they make exceptions for international fashion shows. (But they should. I wonder if my MP would be sympathetic?)
While Milan doesn't thrill me as much as some other cities there are a handful of shows that I get completely giddy about seeing once London is all packed up and gone, the ones that deliver what they do best season after season in fresh new pretty packages. Yes, I'm very set in my ways and I like what I like. Change just enough to keep things interesting but please don't betray my aesthetic hardline tendencies.
First up, Pollini. I was kind of expecting and hoping for more contrasting, fun prints from Jonathan Saunders, that's what I love about what he does for Pollini. But I find that whatever he winds up doing it's always a tight collection that I like no matter what, the outfits are always interesting and demand a long stare. The harsh-pretty bottle blonde with huge crimson lips was a surprise choice for autumn's Pollini girl but it works in the Milanese context and I kind of like it. These are cool clothes and I want that metallic blazer.
Give me a Peter Pan collar with ties straight out of Rosemary's Baby with stained glass window prints on trapeze style dresses with contrasting textured underskirts peeking out and I'm happy. Albino D’Amato proves here that girlie styles with retro roots have endless possibilities and to write them off as banal is just plain foolish!
Antonio Marras' spring 2010 vintage lingerie-inspired collection was one of my favourites of all time and for fall he carries through those feminine sensibilities for cooler weather. His thing is layering multiple textures and mixing raw edges with refinery to stunning effect, it always looks beautiful and feminine and never as if you just decided to wear everything in your closet at once. He does a great print, too.
Luisa Beccaria is so dreamy. While I see her clothes as belonging in an angel's wardrobe (and I like that), sometimes a few dresses here and there can be a touch too precious, even for a romantic like myself. Not this time. The frou frou was replaced with clever pleating and ruching and any ruffles present were understated and delicate. The first third or so of the looks were done in dusty pale blues and that's all I needed to know. How gorgeous are those coats??
Marni. Come on, how could Marni not be here? Consuelo Castiglioni dishes out the fun every time. Most of the prints I skipped by after being temporarily blinded (busy!) but I threw in some of the more bearable for good measure (what's Marni without graphic prints?) She also used some of Gary Hume’s paintings on tops as a lighter alternative to the full body print look and ended with outfits in black that were like a whole bunch of textures having a party but still relatively well behaved. As with last fall she went big with the gloves, kind of like a chic version of a work glove - they look like you could fit both hands in there.
And one last thing...these two looks from Blugirl, Blumarine's little sister, are bordering on 'too precious' but stop just before they go over the edge, especially the second look with bouquet and all. But I still think it's sweet and charming. And it was nice to see furry without the fur. (And Missoni is amazing - who doesn't want to own a Missoni knit? - but I wasn't blown away by any one piece despite the incredible technical quality of some - so honourable mention it will have to be.)