Liz Clay Transforms Felt into Exquisite Couture

Felt is beginning to work its way into the fashion mainstream, and I'm not talking about the knitted kind that is washed to produce a felted effect (which can be lovely, but it's altogether something completely different). Creating felt fabric can require a substantial time commitment and is the physical process of binding loose fibres, usually wool, with water and an alkaline solution such as soap, by rubbing and rolling with the hands. And while anyone can make felt - it's a wonderful craft for all ages - producing something extraordinary is reserved for those who have a passion for textiles and spend countless hours experimenting with a variety of fibres and manipulation techniques, ultimately elevating the craft to an art form.

Liz Clay's felt featured in Stella McCartney's
Paris show for the Fall 2008 RTW collection

Liz Clay is one of these exciting talents, and an accomplished one. A renowned feltmaker, textile designer, lecturer and author, she has inspired many the world over with her sublime silk and merino boas (the design of which is registered and protected), clutches and handbags. When I first discovered and fell in love with feltmaking three years ago, it was Liz' work that really got me fired up. With her boas she's taken felt into the high fashion realm by working the softness of the merino into an almost ethereal quality that is felt as its most beautiful, and along with other signature techniques has created one-of-a-kind, highly fashionable yet wearable accessories. (I WILL own one of her boas one day. This is a hint if someone in particular is reading this...Christmas is coming....)

Her CV and list of accolades is a long and impressive read, and includes a solo exhibition at Harrods in London and recognition from Givenchy and Stella McCartney, who have each invited her to collaborate on their collections. Wow.

First came Givenchy. Liz was contacted directly by the Paris fashion house in 2005 and commissioned to produce garments for their A/W haute couture collection. She has since been involved in development for new collections, both RTW and couture and is now on the team of makers for Givenchy. Liz says she finds the couture work most exciting, that "seeing a finished garment become the showpiece on the catwalk is thrilling." I can only imagine.

Then Stella came calling - at the last minute, just before her Paris A/W show in February, as is the way in the fashion industry. One coat request became a daunting three, yet somehow Liz pulled it all off. (Anyone who has made felt knows just how much laying down of fibres is required for something the size of a coat, as the shrinkage that occurs in the agitation and fulling process could be in excess of 1/3. It's A LOT of hard work and sore muscles. I made a coat once at a weekend-long workshop and afterward several of us vowed never to do it again!).

In the end, Liz's felt opened the Stella McCartney show in Paris - worn by Raquel Zimmermann (above), followed by two more of her stunning felts (looking fab on Aline and Masha). She's now developing new design samples for the next collection so there's a good chance we'll be seeing more of Liz Clay on the runway.

So, what's Liz working on now? She's just returned from Japan where she showcased her new collection of boas and interior wall panels in very fine felts using local wools, in a solo exhibition. You can see the work at the Lesley Craze Gallery in London until Christmas, then at the prestigious Mall Galleries in January. She's also doing commissions from this collection for private customers. (Am jealous.)

And somehow, Liz finds the time to host workshops and lend her expertise to those of us who hope to glean just a shred of her genius. I have been gutted over and over, having missed so many opportunities to be tutored by Liz as her studios are in the south west, in Somerset,which is a very long way from me in the north east of England. Cross-country train ticket, plus hotel for the weekend, plus the workshop fee....well, you get it.

But for those of us who can't quite get there just yet, we have Liz' books. Her latest is Nuno Felt which can be ordered direct from her website, as can her boas, clutch bags and purses, pins and brooches. Considering Liz' affiliations we're lucky that her accessories are so accessible!

The Couture Collection of embroidered silk, cashmere and merino purses and clutches

Interior wall panel in very fine felts using local wools

Wall panel detail

Reversible half-boa

Stella McCartney show photos: Marcio Madeira