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Top 15 Spring 09 RTW Collections

  • 1. Balenciaga
    2. Marc Jacobs
    3. Alexander McQueen
    4. Eley Kishimito
    5. Basso & Brooke
    6. Luella Bartley
    7. Chanel
    8. Rodarte
    9. Sinha-Stanic
    10. Richard Chai
    11. Sabyasachi
    12. Jonathan Saunders
    13. Lanvin
    14. Erdem
    15. Christopher Kane

    This list is interchangeable, really! And could easily have been a Top 25. Selections from these shows can be seen in the 'Spring 09 Wish List' category in the right sidebar

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Swelle Music

  • Francoise Hardy's Voila:

    Francoise Hardy's Mon amie la rose, 1965:

    Carla Bruni's Tout le monde, from Quelqu'un m'a dit:

    Love 1920s Paris?
    For you, Vanessa Paradis' 'L'Incendie:

    Julie Delphy's Waltz for a Night from Before Sunset:

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Top Facts about Coco Chanel

  • 1. Began as a hat designer in Paris in 1908.
    2. Part of the revolutionising of fashion during the 1910s, freeing women from restrictive clothing such as corseted gowns
    3. Launched the famous Chanel suit in 1923.
    4. Influential in the creation of the 1920s flapper image.
    5. Popularised the LBD with a backless, strapless version that created much controversy.
    6. Introduced costume jewelry to the world and the multi-strand style of layering necklaces.
    7. Fashion's only figure to be named on Time Magazines 100 most influential people of the 20th century.

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April 2008

April 30, 2008

Something Old, Something You

Vintage_dress1_tvwdcIt's usually after the wedding that we wish to go back in time (just kidding, Honey!), however, with the stunning vintage options available to us now we're looking to the past before the nuptials for that most important piece - THE DRESS.

I came across London-based The Vintage Wedding Dress Company who specialise in dresses from the 1930s to the early 70s as well as the essential matching accessories to perfect that authentic look. Their collection can only be viewed in person at their boutique but the gallery photos on the website (see left) are good for getting a feel for whether the vintage look is for you .

Also showcasing some truly special finds is Posh Girl Vintage, who sell online. I'm not sure you'd want to order for your Big Day unseen and untried (uh, was this supposed to have a pee stain? NO! Of course they would never sell that to you but you get the point), so do so well in advance, they take returns. And they offer many lovely styles of dresses that would do wonderfully as a one-off bridesmaid or guest look. Here are my Posh Girl Vintage favourites from the 1940s and 50s:

Mermaid_posh_girl_4  1950s_poshgirl_2  Tulle_skirt_poshgirl_4

Want to keep the vintage vibe going beyond the ceremony? Take along this original 1960s Pucci box purse on your sunny honeymoon for fabulous and fun designer arm candy:

Pucci_boxpurse

April 29, 2008

Inside Coco Chanel's Paris Apartment

Coco_chanel_portraitIf you've ever wondered how Gabrielle Bonheur 'Coco' Chanel lived, it is as incredible as you may have imagined.

To promote Chanel's latest scent, Coco Mademoiselle, the fashion house has created a fantastic website befitting its reputation. It includes a virtual tour of Coco's famous Paris apartment, the backdrop for the campaign's films and advertisements. Also featured is a download of the film (the long version of the commercial), behind-the-scenes look into the making of the film as well as the styling, choosing the jewelry, setting up the apartment and the launch party. Heavy daydream territory.

Keira Knightly is the face of the parfum, playing the role of Coco herself. So if you don't like her all that much, just concentrate on the scenery.

Click here for the website, and try not to get caught in the 'Keira as Coco' reflections in the mirrors, just click in the middle of the screen to start the tour.

Celia Walden of The Telegraph was enviably granted access to Coco Chanel's time-locked apartment and found a lifetime of treasures (I would have been paralyzed with awe and then asked to leave):

The entrance to her apartment

Coco_entrance

Glass and guilded wheat coffee table

Coco_coffee_table

Chinese urn and coromandel screens

Coco_urn_screens

The anteroom with silk bergere chair

Coco_anteroom

The sitting room

Coco_sittingroom

Venetian mirrors in the dining room

Coco_venetian_mirrors

See the sidebar for facts about Coco Chanel!

April 28, 2008

Karl Lagerfeld Brings 'Stilvoll' to Grand Theft Auto

Karl_lagerfeld_grand_theft_autoThe eagerly awaited Grand Theft Auto IV (due out Tuesday) has added a new character to its cast - the eccentric, monochromatic, self-fanning Karl Lagerfeld. The genius creative director of Chanel will not be participating in the great fun GTA is famous for: thieving cars, shooting people, dealing drugs and running over prostitutes, rather he'll be playing resident DJ, providing tracks the player can select as the soundtrack to their illicit rampage. I'm hotly anticipating a Kraftwerk, Rammstein, and KMFDM dominated set.

Spinning records can be hard, sweaty work (especially when doing it in a shirt that goes up to your earlobes), therefore Lagerfeld may require some refreshment. Can we expect his Diet Coke Butler will be making an appearance?

April 26, 2008

A Few Extra Inches Isn't Worth It If It Hurts

Gwyneth_heels Thanks to Gwyneth Paltrow's world city tour which would appear to be promoting tiny skirts and six inch heels rather than her film Iron Man, vertiginous footwear is all the rage.

The Mirror reports that Paltrow arrived to her London premiere decked out in a pair of seven inch Giuseppe Zanotti heels, surpassing her previous record of six inches in Rome and Berlin. Apparently she needed some assistance with her walk, which must have resembled trying to do the robot with concrete legs.

The skyscraper heel, while not a new invention, is provocatively pushing the boundaries of how high women will go. Once reserved as uniform for those employed in certain kinds of industry, these not-for-the-timid shoes are now being embraced by those of us who dare to choose high fashion over comfort. Or have the luxury of a chauffeur to drop us at the door so only a few steps in the spine killers are necessary (which is equivalent to length of time one can reasonably hold back the extremely grimaced expression of devastating constipation cramps).

Myself, I just can't do it. I have three pairs of fabulous 4+ inchers and I can't walk in any of them. There are the hot pink patent Sergio Rossi's (their perfect black patent heel got stuck between the slats of a backyard deck the first time I wore them); duck egg blue and chocolate leather BCBG Max Azria T-bars which left me limping at my grandfather's funeral; and my last, heart-wrenchingly useless purchase, Beatrix Ong's amazing reinterpretation of the T-bar sandal with long leather cord ties. The first and only time I wore them I couldn't even walk from the car to the front door of the restaurant. I caught my reflection in the mirror of the lobby, I looked like I was dealing with having had a cactus rammed up my butt and twisted. True glamour.

But who says we can't still admire them? Here are some painfully pretty options from Alexander McQueen:

Mcqueen_hotpink_skyscrapers_4Mcqueen_silver_peeptoe_2Mcqueen_hotpink_strappy_2  
And if after all of that you're still curious, here are some tips on how to buy skyscrapers from The Telegraph's Lesley Thomas, who tries to walk in the truly insane double-heeled model from Alexander McQueen:


April 25, 2008

Don't Do It, Carla Bruni

Carla_bruni_guitar

The French have everything, do they not? The finest wines and cheeses, breathtaking architecture, the riviera, the Louvre, inherent style. And now the most fashionable and beautiful First Lady the world has ever seen. President Nicolas Sarkozy married former supermodel Carla Bruni in February after a brief three month courtship and even briefer divorce proceedings from his second wife.

The Sarkozys created a media frenzy when they came to the UK in March for a state visit (it was Bruni's highly fashionable yet appropriately demure wardrobe that got the most press), and now The Telegraph reports that Bruni is being courted to be the new face of Asda for their low-budget fashion range, George. If you're not familiar, Asda is the WalMart of the UK, owned by the same company. Seem a bit incongruent an association? The equivalent of eating caviar with fried spam, I'd say.

Asda's current contract with Coleen McLoughlin won't be renewed and it is said that Bruni tops the list of most desired replacements. (Coleen is a WAG, the fiancee of star footballer Wayne Rooney. And if that means nothing to you, you really aren't missing anything. Good for you, really. Well done.)

Carla_violet_coat_uk_2

The Italian-born, French-bred (mmm....French bread) Bruni launched a career as a singer/songwriter after leaving modelling in 1997, with great success in francophone countries. She's been known to steal many husbands, even sons, but to look at her and listen to her she's as sweet as creme brulee. Although the breathy singing voice does allude to some seductive potency within. (Still, I can't imagine she needed to summon it with Sarkozy. Powerful yes, but he looks like the SLIGHTLY more attractive younger brother of Jean Chretien.)

If you want to get to know Carla Bruni, here's your introduction. It's a promo (though fairly non-promo feeling) for 2007 album, No Promises:

If you're a fan of the Richard Linklater films Before Sunrise and Before Sunset (you must see them), here's a clip from the latter which featured Carla Bruni's song Quelqu'un m'a dit:

April 24, 2008

To Wake Up in a Place That Looks Like This...

Florimundmain1...is my ultimate luxury ambition. Over the years I've spent countless hours daydreaming about having the house of my, uh, dreams. I'd be launched into another world as I flipped through Wallpaper, transfixed by the sleek furniture designs by the young mavericks of interior problem solving. I'd gaze wondrously at the lush  spaces displayed to show the rest of the world what real wealth can buy, in the pages of Architectural Digest.

Yet while supremely chic and fabulous, there was always an underlying feeling of cold sterility (from the ultra minimalist designs) and a mild disdain for those able to live any way they desire simply because they can afford it, a thousand times over. Why? Because there's only one thing I've ever really coveted, and that is the privilege of waking up in the midst of truly beautiful surroundings, exactly as I would dare to imagine them.

Some years ago I'd take walks in Toronto's Yonge & Eglinton area with my friend Tammy. We were just out of school, embarking on our careers, unknowing as to where our new worlds would take us, or allow us to go. We'd stop in front of The Art Shoppe windows and gaze at the various  installations showcasing living room, lounge and dining room suites representative of the kind of lifestyle that only 'The Others' are allowed to enjoy. In unison we would declare 'ONE DAY!' and spend the rest of the walk floating in our fanciful state.

Really, though, at that time just about anything decent looking was desirable if it was a trade-up from my IKEA littered digs, which prompted one visitor to loudly declare 'This looks like an IKEA showroom!' (minus the smell of Swedish meatballs). Not really a proud moment but then again their designs aren't the most inconspicuous. (Hard to believe something called the LIATORP wouldn't blend.)

So, after determining it was not ridiculous amounts of money, or cool cars, or expensive jewelry that motivated me but rather acquiring the means to one day create my own Xanadu (without the rollerskating goddesses), I realised I didn't quite know what it would look like. Until I came across the Designers Guild website. They had done it. One look and I knew I'd found it. I first saw the website about a year ago and their inspirations have remained true, I love the look as much now as I did then.

Designers Guild is a distributor of high end fabrics, wallpaper and furniture of a particular aesthetic. Colourful, romantic and exquisitely detailed, without the stuffiness or pretension. As you can see from the model rooms created here (I can't bear to think these are actual rooms in someone's house, if so I'm guilty of smashing the tenth commandment into tiny bits), they are impossibly rich in loveliness and so light and inviting that surely you could just sit and bask for hours in the awesomeness of it all.

Or, all of this might make you vomit in disgust. But if the style is to your taste, you would surely fall in love as I have. One day, Tammy...one day.

Florimundmain2

Florimundmain41

Florimundmain51

Florimundwallpapermain1

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April 23, 2008

Hungry for Some McCouture?

MccoutureThe Guardian reports that McDonald's has just announced that their good ol' uniform has, at last, been given a major upgrade. British couturier Bruce Oldfield (second from right in photo) was asked by the fast-food chain giant to create a more upmarket image for their staff. (But if the person serving us looks good, how will we know we're doing something naughty? Oh, right, the food will remind us. If not then, it certainly will later.)

The front line female staff will trade their thick poly top and pants for a patterned blouse and skirt, accessorised with a logo scarf (great for hiding hickeys) and for the boys and men, a black and mocha (their word, sounds tastier than 'beige') shirt and black pants. The managers will wear black suits and have a choice of three ties. Can we assume then, they are all men?

Bruce Oldfield counts Sienna Miller and Jemima Khan as his clients, according to the McDonald's press release. I bet Sienna's thrilled with the new association. Maybe Oldfield will comp her a free scarf, she does have a thing for that mixy-mashy styling.

I was trying to think of what the old uniform looked like, I haven't set foot in McDonald's in ages  (okay, I use the drive-thru). Then I found this comparison photo:

Oldandnewmcdonalds

Ya, it was time. Shud-der. Don't know about that scarf, the huge golden arches logo looks a bit silly. Upon taking in the whole ensemble in person I might confuse the restaurant for an airplane cabin and ask her to tell the person behind me to stop kicking my seat.

April 22, 2008

Tasty Crumbs Well Worth Picking Up

Mum_daughter_apron_4 The women's apron can be seen as the symbol of a hard-day's work in the kitchen, a throw back to the era that gave us casseroles, Sunday pot roast dinners and a bold fearlessness of lard.

Or better, it's a sweet reminder of those warm memories of baking chocolate chip cookies alongside mom on rainy Sunday afternoons, while dad watched the game on TV in the living room in the big chair. And then ate most of the cookies. But you didn't mind, the fun was all in the pointers learned from mom, and the giggling and sharing of secrets that dad would never understand anyway.

Donning an apron to cook or bake, especially a great looking one, transforms the act of simply preparing sustenance to one of nostalgic ritual and great fun. To indulge in it myself, I went searching for true vintage to get the authentic experience, but was disappointed when I found that the originals don't look anywhere near as good as they do in our memories and imaginations. And the thought of a 50 year-old pork n' beans stain is a bit unappetizing.

Luckily, there is a designer who understands such wants and needs and is passionate about them. Jennifer Lucas of the Canadian company Crumb Designs has created a line of flirty and romantic aprons 'to inspire everyday living', as is her motto (and a wonderful one at that). Each is handmade with fabrics that are carefully chosen for colour, design and the quality to endure a lifetime and beyond. Such a lovely family keepsake they would surely make.

Jennifer is most compelled by the happy times she spent as a child in the kitchen baking and cooking with her mother and grandmother, and through her designs offers such an opportunity for others. Her impossibly adorable and stylish matching aprons in adult and child sizes are the perfect recipe for creating that special bonding experience for you and your favourite wee one. What little girl wouldn't light up when presented with such a delightful invitation?

Crumb Designs aprons are available online at www.crumbdesigns.com (nice website, too!).

Coming soon: Watch the website this spring for the new line of gardening aprons for adults and children. (Bake cookies, just the two of you, go outside to the garden to plant your tulips in the sunshine then enjoy your homemade snack together on the porch. How's that for the perfect day?)

To learn more about Jennifer Lucas and how Crumb Designs came to be, read the interview (a very sweet and inspiring story).

More delicious treats to savor:

Lucille_apron_5Busy_half_apron_12

Pink_bow_apronsFloral_dots_aprons

April 20, 2008

Pushing Daisies - No Sound Required

Pushing_daisies_dandelion_girl

I was really looking forward to watching Pushing Daisies now that it's here in the UK (thanks ITV). The rave reviews stateside are being echoed here and the promo stills looked very enticing indeed, right up my alley with the hyper-colourific 'Black Hole Sun' meets Tim Burton aesthetic. Delish.

I was taking photos of the pilot from the TV screen throughout so I confess I wasn't giving the dialogue my complete attention. However, it  seemed as if it didn't matter all that much. Not a criticism, the show is, erm, pleasant. Rather. Quite. Anna Friel is delightful as Chuck, she does a cracking American accent (where does she hide the Northern?) and there's good chemistry with Ben, well played by Lee Pace. But it didn't impact me much, other than how it looked (great clothes, especially the dresses and shoes, and wallpaper deserves another resurgence thanks to the show's wonderfully patterned interiors). Which is still something in itself. It could prove to be an utter visual indulgence, depending on whether it's merely satisfied with its early achievements or looks within itself to find new ways to illustrate the fairy tale.

A sign of good things to come, however; the top photo is from an upcoming episode and from that I'd say the future looks bright. For now, some pretty pictures from episode one:

Img_72522Img_7253Digbyandolive_2

As I was posting this photo of Ned and Chuck on the grass, it seemed familiar. Then it came to me. They're in Tubby Land, see for yourself!

Ned_chuck_kissNed_chuck_kiss

April 17, 2008

Best Fashion Find of Newcastle and Beyond

Skirt_boutique_exterior When I came to the UK in winter 2005 and ventured into the city centre of Newcastle in search of Christmas presents to take home for my friends, I found myself frightened and confused. Sure, there were myriad pubs, restaurants, and high street chain shops but where were the boutiques?? Those enticing little shops with enchanted window displays and fresh labels displayed artfully inside, waiting to be discovered? The architecture here was lovely and inspired but was is it possible my new home was (gulp, knot forming in stomach) a fashion wasteland?                                                                        

Luckily, as fate would have it, we took a random turn down a cobble-stone side street and into our view came independent record shops and (yes!) one little boutique that ticked all the boxes on my wish list, aptly called SKIRT. Upon entering I found myself floating over to the racks to browse. I was bursting with excitement as I ran my fingers over the beautiful tops and dresses that were so me, but better. That's what we continually seek, isn't it? Our favourite styles taken in a direction more fabulous than what we're already 'doing'? But this was not the time to be cultivating my new and improved image, I had others to think about. I would return, many, many times.

Despite Newcastle being home to Northumbria University which churns out some of the UK's brightest design talents, it is shamefully lacking in efforts to reflect the richness of its resources. And so, sometimes the fashion-starved have to take matters into their own hands.

The woman behind SKIRT is Clare, who opened her boutique on Highbridge a few years ago because she couldn't find great clothes in her hometown (THANK YOU!). She's always on hand in the shop to help you put together your new look, or leave you be to take your time and create it yourself. The independent labels Clare brings to the shop reflect her exceptionally keen eye for a particular look that borrows heavily from the vintage aesthetic (very Swelle!). Completely kitsch-free, the clothes are beautiful and original with a simplicity in design that is quite feminine, yet bears no relationship to the merely 'cute'. And a full range of accessories that includes many one-offs well complements the collection consisting mainly of tops, skirts and dresses. Shoes are coming, too, so you can soon get the complete head-to-toe SKIRT look. 

To top it all off the shop is affordable AND you can now browse online and buy by phone or email. A wide range of prices allows for a guilt-free fashion fix or a serious statement piece indulgence, not to mention the great seasonal sales.

Featured labels currently include: PAUL AND JOE SISTER, ANTIPODIUM, CHEAP MONDAY DENIM, ELLA MOSS, HOMEBODY and L&W.

Vintage lovers: Be sure to check out the vintage section of the website, Clare has brilliantly done the legwork for you.

Here's a sample of the tasty dresses available now (many on sale!) plus one TO DIE FOR pale blue leather ruffle-front, puff sleeve jacket by Tina Casmose (not on sale, as if!):

Pale_blue_leather_jacket2

Skirt_black_dress2Navy_frill_dress1

Treeprint_shirt_dressCream_bowfront_dress2_2

Blue_floral_dress1_2Yellow_collar_dress_3  

April 16, 2008

Gossip Girl - Even Their School Uniforms Make Us Feel Inferior

Gossipgirl_uniforms1It was the mid - late 80s when I attended high school (stop snickering) and it was a Catholic school. Yes, the dreaded uniform. That which students loathe, and parents, teachers, school administrators and other oppressive regimes love. The first year we got away with a dress code uniform of a white or navy golf or dress shirt and grey trousers or skirt. Naturally it was abused right off the bat and white became cream, navy was baby blue and grey trousers, faded (or not so faded) black jeans. Can you blame us for trying?

We thought we were smart (then again, I also thought a perm and navy eye liner was a good idea) but we didn't get away with it for long. The next school year the official uniform was introduced - white dress or golf shirt with school logo and for the girls, the 'choice' of grey wool trousers (seemingly modelled after the 'Mom jean') or THE KILT. The grey, white and burgundy (to match the hideous, mostly ACRYLIC burgundy logo v-neck sweater we had to wear in winter) wool kilt. Made of the itchiest of wools so we're talking premium fibres here, with a little Brillo pad for filler. We still tried to get away with some modifications - rolling up the top to make it shorter or hemming it. Threats immediately ensued and we were told to wear them no higher than the middle of the knee or face detention. I once witnessed a teacher get down on his knee to check whether a girl's hem was slightly above the line of moral decency.

To be fair, when I worked at Yonge & Eglinton in Toronto there were a few Catholic high schools in the area and there was obviously no rule about hemlines. The majority of the girls had them hiked up to the upper thigh. And the combination of the flared style of the kilt, extreme wind at this particular intersection and the way teen girls tend to bounce instead of walk, meant that I saw more under-age butts than an unlicensed tattoo parlour. So our school may have had a point. But it still sucked big time.

So, now we have Gossip Girl. A show about those wealthy, fashion-obsessed, contemptibly privileged New York society high school kids whose lives surely make our kegger/bush party days seem pitiful in comparison (because we thought they were cool before, right?). If only it were fiction. Imagine a 'uniform' as seen above (shirts provided by French Toast, the real-life supplier of American school uniform apparel), or rocking up to the school's front doors accessorised like this:

Gossip_girl02

There is one drawback to this scenario, however. When you're this fabulous, usually so are your friends. And when you all have to-die-for coats, the latest 'it' bag and shoes that are too good to make contact with the ground, it's hard to stand out, as this photo illustrates. (And having matching hairbands doesn't help.)

After reading an interview with the Gossip Girl novel author Cecily Von Ziegesar (who attended  a small, private girls school on the upper east side), I could smell a reality show a la The Hills being cooked up. She mentioned how her classmates would sometimes miss school to be private-jetted to Paris for couture fittings. So, I bet it's not long before we've got the real Gossip kids flaunting their stuff in our faces - who wouldn't want to see filthy rich 16 year-olds living lives we can only conjure in daydreams? Please, at least spare us that irritating, giggly-sinister narration. (Oh, I know I'd watch it anyway.)

What is with the guy who plays Chuck? He looks like the offspring of Jimmy Fallon and The Count from Sesame Street.

Jimmy_fallon1Thecount_2   

Gossipgirlfindanagentedwestwick

April 14, 2008

Comme des Garcons for H&M?!

Comme_des_garcons_pink_dress_3 There's BIG news in high street retailer/designer collaborations: Comme des Garcons is doing a line for H&M this autumn. Seriously. I thought Viktor & Rolf was a surprising choice in 2006 due to their conceptual designs and virtual anonymity with the general public, and at times gimmicky collections (Fall RTW 2008, for one). But this is just astonishing.

Then again there's a desire from the more 'out there' luxury brands such as the avant-garde Japanese label Comme des Garcons to bring their style to the masses, albeit a more stream-lined and watered-down version (avant-lite? avant-conformist?) It would seem that designer and creative director, Rei Kawakubo, (who described her Fall RTW 2008 collection as 'bad taste', as was her intention) wouldn't be willing to sacrifice the creative freedom that in effect challenges those who prefer a more mainstream approach to dressing.

However, Kawakubo told Elle UK magazine 'I have always been interested in the balance between creation and business'. That seems a bit vague but I'll take it as meaning nothing is out of the question. Obviously!

April 12, 2008

Elvis Lives! (sort of)

Brody_condon_karmaphyics_elvis

When I was in Amsterdam last April to see the tulips (which hadn't yet bloomed because spring was so late, ugh) I visited the Stedelijk Museum and was greeted by a very absorbing installation.

At first I was attracted by a large mass of infinite coral-pink fog, projected onto the wall by a custom pink computer. The serene images floating toward me were immediately hypnotic, so it took a few moments to realize what they were - Elvises in full Vegas costume. The trance was soon broken when one of the Elvises began twitching, then another, then another. 

Karma Physics < Elvis is a work by Los Angeles digital artist Brody Condon. It is the modification of the bloody science fiction first person shooter computer game Unreal 2003. The convulsions of Elvis are controlled by the original game’s Karma Ragdoll real-time physics system - generally used to simulate the physical dynamics of game character death. Had Elvis lived longer his pelvic gyrations may have degenerated to such a move.

Disturbing, yet mesmerizing and beautiful. I suddenly have a craving for fried peanut butter and banana sandwiches...

To see Karma Physics < Elvis in action, click here

Paris Fashion Week featuring Lanvin's Stunning Take on Black

I meant to post these Fall 2008 highlights from Paris Fashion Week when I returned from Paris last month and was buzzing with inspiration, but considering it's barely spring I think we've still got time to take a look?

Lots and lots of gorgeous, covetable clothes, but I agree with British Vogue's Alexandra Shulman that black figures too prominently, which is especially typical of the Fall collections (thank you for lending credibility my long-held belief that it's just too safe!). I think if you're going to do black, make it beautiful, and no one can do it like Alber Elbaz who has used opulent embellishments, silky strips of ribbon and feminine silhouettes to create his to-die-for dresses.

So here's runway, backstage and front-row footage from Lanvin Fall 2008, Paris Fashion Week. (Why, oh why did Style.com have to open with commentary and self-promotion by Jessica Alba, a complete fashion non-entity? Just close your eyes and cover your ears for a few seconds and you'll be fine...)

 

April 10, 2008

Everyone Should Have a Travelling Beverage Butler

Karllagerfelddietcoke

What a sucker I am. All this time I've been buying my own Cokes and serving myself.

Karl Lagerfeld has the right idea - have your Diet Coke presented to you in the street, IN A CHALICE, and allow a grown man his dignity. His Diet Coke Butler looks prouder than the day he told his parents he was leaving for a career as K.L.'s ponytail checker.

(We know it's Diet Coke because that's all Karl drinks.)

Thanks to Towleroad for a good laugh. 

Vanessa Paradis Does Not Need Our Pity

Vanessa_back_3 Over the past few days I've borne witness to the online blogger/message board beatdown that is relentlessly being inflicted on Vanessa Paradis, French chanteuse, actress and occasional Chanel model, and most famously (outside of Europe), the woman who shares toilet paper with Johnny Depp. I felt compelled to respond.

I don't want to perpetuate the mindless mockery aimed at Vanessa so I won't reiterate what's being said, but let's keep it polite and say that people don't think she looks good and therefore doesn't deserve Johnny Depp. Most weren't aware of her until Johnny started dating her ten years ago, and she's since flown low on the radar in terms of their infrequent appearances in the U.S. So it hasn't really been until now, as rumours abound about an impending wedding, that she's been the keyboard jockeys' focus of negative attention. And I'm at odds with that, in a big way.

I first became aware of Vanessa Paradis in 1992 when I picked up the latest issue of Details magazine. She was one of the features as she had just completed an album, produced by a still dreadlocked Lenny Kravitz, and there were a few full-page photos of her that made me stop dead. I was 21 at the time, a year older than her and I was awestruck by her doll-like beauty. I guess you could call it a girl-crush, my first thought was 'I'll trade you.' She jumped off the page, she really had something that was lacking on our side of the pond.

There was only one other time, when I loved Olivia Newton-John. (Warning - embarking on a tangent so if you want to hear it click here.)

Right, so...Vanessa Paradis. She was unbelievably gorgeous and so she's started aging and she never fixed the gap in her teeth. Refreshing, is it not? To be comfortable in your own skin? To not mutilate oneself in a Presley-esque manner in a desperate effort to hang on to your 20 year-old face? It's not a mystery what Johnny sees in her - he's obsessed with 1920s Paris and she's French, his passion is music and she's a singer, and since he's been with her there's been no tearing up hotel rooms and punching out paparazzi (though you couldn't blame him for the latter).

Imagine their children's cheekbones. That's more than enough reason to bless their union.

*These were scanned, they're from the early 90s. And look in the sidebar for her latest video.

Vanessa_coke_2 

Vanessaparadisguitar

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April 08, 2008

Anax Imperator Machina - How to Create a Buzz

Dragonfy_main_closeup_3 Whether insects are your thing or not, the Anax Imperator Machina, latin for 'The Emperor Dragonfly Machine', is undeniably a very striking specimen that demands closer inspection.

Painstakingly hand made by artist Jesse Danger (don't you love his name? He can make you cool stuff AND save you from a burning house), this intricate invention is a several hundred-hours-long labour of love and a truly original creation.

The best of both worlds, the Anax Imperator Machina is beautiful as well as functional (if only we had such options with men). Inspired by Leonardo da Vinci's fantasized gadgets, Mr. Danger takes classical engineering one fabulous step further by using the finest precious metals and gems to produce a stylish and coveted work of art. Turn down the tip of the tail (actually the abdomen) to make the finely detailed argentium silver wings flutter (argentium is superior to sterling and fine silver). The internal mechanisms, gears and moving parts were industriously hand-milled and hand-calibrated with absolute precision from 14k gold. The body, mechanical frame and wings, also handcrafted from argentium silver. Those pretty baby blues are large 10 carat Swiss Blue Topaz cabochons and the 14k gold bezel on the tail contains a 4mm Amethyst bullet shaped cabochon.

Breathe. After taking in all of that, how can you not be impressed? (and a little tired...imagine?).

This extraordinary one-of-a-kind dragonfly is for sale in Jesse Danger's Etsy shop which also features his eco-jewelry line of Asian-inspired rings, pendants and earrings. I have his textured brass earrings, they are awesome. Look for his incredible Eco-Silver and 22k Gold Ring, which brazenly re-defines 'ring'.

Coming in May is his dragonfly wing line of jewelry and a limited-edition booklet. I anticipate a quick sell-out so watch closely if you're interested!

Read the interview with Jesse Danger to find out what makes him buzz.

Note: Just a word of warning if you haven't looked at the shop yet, the price on the dragonfly is not for the faint-hearted, thick-templed or curly-haired. Okay, maybe strike the last two. It's a heck of a lot of money, but well reflects what's gone into it so no overblown gasping, okay? If you could, you would, right? I would!

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April 03, 2008

Truly Mad for 'Mad Men'

Img_7171 The best-looking show on TV has arrived in Britain and I'm hooked (thank you BBC Four). Set in 1960 New York, Mad Men is about the lives of the ruthlessly competitive men and women of Madison Avenue advertising. It is an utter treat to watch. Brilliantly shot, each frame serves up an eyeful of style perfection. If you love the mid-century aesthetic, this show is an hour-long daydream. Not a detail is overlooked, from the bang-on accurate props to the delicious costume design.

Ah, the clothes. Costume designer Janie Bryant represents women's fashion exactly as it was in 1960, a transitional period where the longer circle skirts of the 50s gave way to shorter hemlines and more figure-hugging styles (as the ultra-curvaceous secretary, Joan, aptly demonstrates). And the men, never have they looked so good. With his French-cuffed shirts, spread collars and sharply tailored grey business suits, the show's staggeringly handsome lead, Don Draper, is the epitome of masculinity at its best (shame about the incessant cheating).

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There's something about this era, the one I just missed by being born a few years after the heyday was over. You want to be there, to live in it. An idealised version, albeit, where everything seemed so polished, polite and perfect. Never mind your mum may have smoked while you were floating in her belly, her hair always did that neat flippy thing!

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And everything was 'swell'. There are at least three mentions of the word in each episode of Mad Men. It so represents the mid-century era tendency to delight in things so sweetly. Who can resist that? Not me. I love the ideology behind the word and that's why I used it in naming my shop and this blog, with the 'e' added for a little French, feminine flair. Although Don would never share this sentiment. He's more serious, a brooder - a necessary contrast to the bright-eyed young hipsters at the office. And isn't that just swell?

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You've Got the Look

  • French Connection Limited

The 'Magnifique' Francoise Hardy


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