The Swelle Life

Everlasting Sprout AW13: "White Scary"

My eyes popped out when I saw Everlasting Sprout's magical pastel knits in 2009, my introduction to the Japanese knitwear label designed by Keiichi Muramatsu, and I've been watching keenly ever since. I'm not the only one outside of Japan with a crush on Everlasting Sprout, though you'd think I was if you went by the lack of information and coverage of the brand outside of the country (the same can be said for any Japanese brand that isn't Commes, Junya, or Issey, which is unfortunate). WWD.com extends a further reach to international fashion weeks and has covered Everlasting Sprout three times, then Style.com finally reviewed a collection last year for SS13, but so far it's a one-off, though that possibly couldn't be helped, I can't find any evidence that Muramatsu actually showed at Tokyo Fashion Week in March. (And even his own website is spotty with visual coverage of his career, many collections appear in name only - we want all of the pictures!) But there is a new collection for autumn and that's what you're looking at. It's called White and Black, I found it on his website and was relieved to see he's still at it. And surprised to find that the Sprout girl has grown up beyond the experimental spectacle of the lampshade skirts which now seem a universe away.

Muramatsu likes to write little poems with accompanying line drawings to introduce his collections:

 

 

Black and white. 

White spreads. Black cuts through. 

White clean. White scary. 

Black is serious. Black wriggles.

 

 

 

 

Keep in mind this is a translation. But I think we can get the gist? (Still not sure why white is scary but it makes me picture a kid out for Halloween as a ghost with a white sheet over his head. That's probably not what he meant.) Anyway, the tweeds are absolutely gorgeous and look very expensive though they tend to be more reasonably priced when compared to similar garments from the big luxury brands, and I love the styling of the outfits which bring the fun and irreverence of Everlasting Sprout to the collection. Leave it to Muramatsu to make black and white so textural and exciting:

Photos: Everlasting Sprout

The Exquisite Side of Rattan

Architectural design combined with open and closed weaves transforms an outdoor day bed into a functional piece of art

We all associate rattan with outdoor living; a common and comforting summer scene is rattan garden furniture on the deck at home as well as beachy resorts and conservatories. Its popularity is due to its rustic and homely appeal, but it can also be refined, elegant and artful. Rattan is light yet durable, making it ideal for outdoor conditions and for re-arranging for entertaining, as well as storing during the winter. And if you're a texture nut like me, you'll be drawn to its tightly bound, intricate weaves, the styles and techniques of which are as limitless as one's imagination. 

If you're wondering whether rattan and wicker are the same thing, they're not. The difference between them is the distinction between a product versus a process. Rattan is a type of wood with a vertical grain that is used to make woven items, whereas wicker is a weaving style using any suitable material. Rattan is also sometimes confused with bamboo; while similar, bamboo is hollow in the middle and rattan is solid. 

The real beauty of rattan lies within its pliable quality which allows it to be shaped into exquisite structures, beyond what we'd normally expect of traditional outdoor furniture. And it works well when contrasted with manmade materials such as metal. Here are some stunning examples of rattan outdoor furniture which represent a range of weaving techniques in a variety of colours, in designs that would also work beautifully indoors:

A lounger can be so much more than something to lie around on. The chevron pattern of the golden rattan weave finished with a stitch detail is like fashion for outdoors, and beautifully complements the elegant, fluid curves of the polished aluminum frame. 

The hanging chair is an enduringly coveted item, it's just so cool. If you're looking to up the style factor of your garden, the cocoon and wigwam styles are perfect for an instant transformation. 

There's something very comforting about this set of day beds, its semi-igloo form practically begs one to crawl in and commit to a few lazy hours. The overhead cut-out provides air flow and keeps the furniture looking light. 

This super stylish loveseat is reminiscent of a 1960s design in pattern and structure, yet is fresh and contemporary and will endure beyond the trends. 

The more I see the more I'm convinced that I should be sleeping outdoors more often. During the day. This rattan day bed is designed as a cocoon, enveloping its lucky occupants in cushions, with an open weave that allows the summer breezes to flow through. Dreamy. 

Sources linked from photos

Gillian Gladrag Launches Funky Felting Kits

It was about seven years ago when I randomly came upon a book called Complete Feltmaking by English feltmaker Gillian Harris while browsing online; it was the cheery and colourful cover that caught my eye. I had no idea what feltmaking was, I was really only aware of that craft felt we used in primary school projects and those hardy, thick, grey felts associated with traditional Nordic living, but I'd never given a thought to how those real felts were created. I was intrigued so I visited Gillian's website to find out more. I loved the idea that you could create your own fabrics on your kitchen table using wispy pieces of wool then adding water, an alkaline substance (such as soap) and some good old fashioned muscle to bind it all together, winding up with something strong and beautiful. I ordered the book and got some wool tops (tops are tubes of natural fibre you start with by pulling off consistently sized wisps to lay down in alternating layers), a mat and some screening to put over the wool to keep the layers in place and assist with the binding. Although the process takes some time to do well, you can very quickly see your wool transforming into felt which is really exciting. I became fascinated by the endless possibilities the craft offers in terms of creating textures, patterns, shapes, whatever your brain can think of really, and you can keep things minimal or embellish it as much as you want. While felts have all kinds of practical uses - they're extremely durable and naturally waterproof - they can also be quite exquisite. There are textile artists doing incredible things using their handmade felts as their medium, and both heavy and delicate felts have and will continue to feature in high fashion. (I once did a workshop where we learned to make seamless jackets out of felt!) But the process all begins the same way using some basic principles. 

Gillian Gladrag has launched a collection of felting kits for handmade homewares and accessories in her quirky and colourful style, and they are a perfect starting point for novices as well as offering focused projects for more experienced feltmakers. I wanted to try out a kit with my daughter and asked her to choose one, and I should have known that as a puppy-obsessed girl she'd go for Monsieur Saucisson (above), a cute doggie brooch created with the needlefelting technique, a completely different approach from welt felting as described above, which is the child-friendly way. Gillian doesn't recommend that kids use the needles for obvious reasons, and has a set of kits geared toward little ones. I admit I let my daughter do a few pokes and of course I got pricked two seconds later as I was holding Monsieur's sausage body in place. So yes, it's best to listen to common sense! Personally, I'd recommend trying welt felting first if you're new to feltmaking, I think it's more indulgent and it's fun to get your hands all over the fibres, and needle felting is an alternative technique you can add to your repertoire later. (In case you're wondering, welt felting lends well to flat projects and needle felting is more for sculptural creations, or for embellishing a beloved cashmere cardigan, for example.)

The Gillian Gladrag shop on Dorking's high street where she also teaches feltmaking classes

The needle felt kits come with everything you need to create your new little friend, or you can try welt felting all kinds of things including your own seamless handbag - there are a few neat designs to choose from. Once you start making your own felts, you may quickly find yourself addicted to your newfound creativity! 

And if you're a knitter, Gillian has all kinds of unique yarns to play with, including these thick and thin yarns embellished with needle felted flowers that would make a gorgeous scarf:

The shop has just about everything you need to felt and knit plus all kinds of neat trims and supplies to finish your creations. Visit Gillian Gladrag online or in person at the 'Fluff-a-torium' at 20 West Street in Dorking, Surrey RH4 1BL. How can you not want to visit a place called the Fluff-a-torium?!

Standout Stools: How to Make Them Work in Your Space

I've been thinking a lot about stools lately, you know, as you do! We looked at beautiful breakfast bars last week and saw a variety of great looking bar stools, and then I found myself in Harrogate drooling over a high back stool of exquisitely woven hot pink polyurethane (trust me) in a contemporary furniture shop, saying "if only..." Sound familiar? A (good) stool is one of those furniture items that is universally appealing, but actually found in very few homes. It's probably for the same reason as why I don't have one in our home: we don't think we have the space. I lamented this 'fact' to the owner of the shop I was visiting and he stated quite confidently, "You always have room for a stool." He wasn't a hard-selling kind of guy, he was simply stating a truth which has trickled through; I've since realised after coming home and scrutinising every room of ours for potential places to put such a stool, that it's not about shoe-horning it in to your existing decor for the sake of it, but rather seeing it as a replacement for an existing piece, or even as a foundation piece to build your space around and create a vibe that works for you. If a particular item excites us that much, it can be worth mixing up our traditional approaches and coming at our spaces from a fresh - and sometimes scary! - perspective.

Here's an exercise to try: Use your coveted stool (or any wish list item you have an enduring lust for) as a starting point for a particular room and think about what you can move, or get rid of - chances are you'll have at least one major thing that you live with that doesn't thrill you anymore (there's a joke in there I'm not going to touch). I'll use my living room as an example: I have a large sideboard that was once my pride and joy and now I see it as an eyesore, and also I'm bored with how I've decorated it on top; it served me well for a time but I've moved past the style altogether. Replacing it with another sideboard that's more my taste now is one option. But, what if I were to abandon the idea that a large, decorated, storage piece needs to anchor the view into my living room? And the armchair that looks nice but isn't sat in all that much? What else could I do with that space? This is where the scary and exciting makes an entrance - oh, the possibilities! But a clear focus is important. The ultimate goal here is to achieve a balance of function and flow; your space needs to be harmonious and comfortable to be useful and enjoyable.

Here are some ways you can create a stool feature in your home, starting with a living room in which the stool doubles as a table (above, notice how the odd proportions of the higher stool with the low sofa are balanced by the articulated desk lamp), and a secondary dining area in a contemporary style:

The table and high stool set give this workspace a unique industrial-meets-natural vibe:

I really love this alternative to the home office (below). Yes, having skyscraper ceilings and gigantic windows with a great city view makes this space magical, but you can create something similar in your own home - it's just a matter of priority! In fact, it has me thinking about how I work (I refuse to be stuck in our little office upstairs all day). That armchair I mentioned earlier that doesn't get a lot of action happens to be in front of our bay windows, and I'll bet that the stool that has me preoccupied would fit just perfectly in front of a charming table...

Sources linked from photos

Ideas for Pastel Home Accents

It's been impossible not to notice that pastels are making a huge splash in everything from fashion to home decor this spring. The sorbet shades go far in brightening up a room and most people tend to be drawn to that; even if you don't consciously identify with 'mint', for example, the colour will likely have a pleasing effect. Also, pastels look great mixed with other pastels, as well as brights and straight neutrals like beige and ivory, as illustrated in that gorgeous writing desk, above. And due to their mood-elevating powers, their appeal will last well beyond the seasonal craze.

My enduring love of the soft palette and its particular relevance to decor choices this season was the basis for a recent product Ideabook for Houzz. Even just one pastel piece added to a space can completely transform how it feels, such as a beautiful rug in pale celadon or a stand-out chair. And if you're fearlessly indulgent, you can create a haven of tranquility and cheer by going all out with several complementary colours, or building the room using a variety of shades of your favourite hue. And remember to extend it beyond furniture and accent pieces to every day, practical items such as what we use to cook or eat with - interract with your pastels to get the most out of them!

Sparkle and Charm from Cyn Tung Fong

Cynthia Fong has been a friend of Swelle for a few years now; you may remember her from the Designer Series, a feature in which the then Central Saint Martins student shared her projects from their knitwear program and displayed a flair for avant-garde forms and intricate textures. Most recently, she worked for James Long in London, the young British knitwear designer and current fashion editor favourite, contributing to his AW 2013-14 mens and womenswear collections. Way to go, Cynthia!

We'll be seeing more of Cynthia's graduate and post-grad designs which are nothing short of stunning (as the look from her menswear grad show below illustrates), but today I wanted to introduce you to her jewellery collection which she has created as a side project under the label Cyn Tung Fong. She tells me it's something a bit different to indulge in after long days of knitting, though we can see her love of playing with colour combinations and mixing different textures is reflected in these vibrant accessory pieces. 

The collection includes neckpieces, bracelets, cuffs, and earrings which feature beading and charms in glass, metal, crystal and acrylic, and is currently available at her shops on Etsy and ASOS with prices ranging from £3 to £45, so there's something for everybody. Have a look!  

WOWW...That's More Than a Tea Towel

Mae Engelgeer, you have made me covet a tea towel. Or two, or three. The Dutch textile designer has created the Woww, Fest and Bow collections of graphic fabrics, developed in small quantities at the Textile Museum in Tilburg, The Netherlands. The fabrics are a mixture of mohair, cashmere, cotton and acrylic yarns for the blankets, shawls and scarves, and the tea towels are just slightly less precious yet still fine for such a utilitarian item, in cotton, linen and acrylic. I'm probably going to buy one - my favourite is  Woww (above and below) and I won't lie, I will try to wear it as a scarf.

You can buy Mae Engelgeer textiles at her online shop or at The Minimalist which is based in Australia, where I found out about her.

But there's nothing worse than buying something pretty that's meant for practical purposes and then being afraid to use it and dirty it up. I once bought cloth napkins that had a print on a white background and I loved them. The first time I used them was when we had friends over for lunch for the first time ever. I guess the importance of a first impression was lost on me, because when I realised that any mouth wiping would result in an instant stain, I collected them up and replaced them with paper towels which happened to have The Muppets characters on them. Yes, I did that. I was a little embarrassed but would I have done it differently if I could go back? Um, no! Later, I had to figure out how to make them practical and not stress about it. I decided they would not be table napkins but would look nice on my serving trays when I was bringing out tea or desserts. And this is exactly what I would do with these awesome tea towels which are far too good for wiping stuff. 

 

Chic Spring Bumps

There must be something in the air;  for the past several years there's been a steady stream of pregnancy announcements from friends and family, amongst a sustained media obsession with celeb mums-to-be and how they style their bumps. It wasn't all that long ago that being 'with child' was a time to get through the best you could, fashion-wise. But it's a different world these days where the event is celebrated in a big way, with every detail and every need catered to. So now, not only do we not have to compromise on style, we may even be better dressed than before we got our bumps! 

I remember my first shopping trip when I was just starting to show. In this particular shop I discovered all kinds of brands making great clothes exclusively for the expecting fashionista, and I couldn't tell the difference between most of them and 'regular' clothes; in fact, I'd passed by several times, admiring the outfits in the window without realising it was a maternity boutique! The design of the fashion is so clever; much of the first and second trimester sizes can be worn after the baby arrives which helps justify buying a few more pieces or one or two 'special' things. I splashed out on a slate blue cashmere halter top with silk straps and I can tell you exactly which drawer it's in, eight years on and in a different country from where I gave birth!

Bon Prix has some great maternity coats in styles that fit right alongside what's already 
in your wardrobe. The short trench (right) is smart and adorable and is designed so the belt sits higher to accommodate your bump, and afterward the bottom of the coat will simply lie flat. The black wrap nightgown is another item I'd wear for the duration and beyond and feel quite cute flitting about in the house, and those jeans are fantastic - there's no need for a giant elastic waistband, we're women, not Homer Simpson! Ok, so maternity pants are probably not going to last beyond the bump, but keep them around - they may still come in handy for a few months after your baby arrives (I looked pregnant for about six weeks after and we would joke that a twin just needed a bit more time) and if you like to indulge in the all-you-can-eat buffet once in a while you'll be especially glad for them. (I joke, but hey, you never know!) 

Finish your outfit with a great piece of jewellery or a scarf - accessories are a fantastic way to feel stylish and keep up with fashion when you're not feeling particularly modelesque. And a gorgeous bag will go a long way, but you already knew that!

The Sleek, Contemporary Bedroom

I love a big, plush bed with a quilted headboard, topped with a thick, white duvet and a pile of soft pillows. But I'm equally drawn to a low, sleek, minimalist design that looks so refined and perfect that I'd be hesistant to get in and mess up the covers. This style of bed with its matching decor looks so fashion forward and well, 'clean', but it doesn't have to feel sterile. I teeter between the ultra spare bedrooms and the minimal mixed with lots of texture; but what works for me in real life is some warmth as I always gravitate to details that are soft and pretty. However, the low style bedframe suits what I love to sleep on which is a memory foam mattress, as they don't require a boxspring and they are sleek in form which complements the typically linear design of minimalist decor. 

Here are some different ways you can create a sleek and au courant look in your bedroom, which can be as minimal or as lush as you want:

Balance and space: this clever, steel frame bed appears to be suspended, creating an elegant floating effect. (It keeps no secrets so dust bunnies would have to tackled daily!)

The furniture in this bedroom is minimalist and the colour palette is neutral, yet it's inviting and warm. The large window and gauzy drapes let the sun wash over the room, while the mix of textiles - shag rug, plush blanket and silk robe - create a lovely tactile appeal. 

The headboard of this white gloss bed looks a bit like a piece of a spaceship pod, if sci-fi movies are anything to go by. It's cool in both senses of the word. But throw a gauzy sheet over the bed and that's all it takes to soften and warm the room.

Yes, you can actually have colour in a minimalist bedroom! And a sea view, apparently (below). Colour takes the quiet and the seriousness out of this style of decor and can be rich and elegant as the plum and navy accents illustrate (above), or it can be made bold and fun with brights. The primary colours on the earthy brown work especially well to lift this space while also keeping it anchored to its forms. 

Earlier I mentioned 'sterile', and for me that's how this ultra minimalist room feels. It's complete, as in it has a lamp, TV and a couple of decor items to round out the forms and add colour (I'm assuming there is a separate dressing room and that's why we don't see a dresser or wardrobe), but it's not built as a place for comfort, is it? Still, some people like that and would feel right at home. 

Sources linked from photos

Sunglasses: How to Choose the Right Sun Protection

My life with sunglasses as an essential appendage began when I was about 16-years-old. I played tennis on the junior circuit and had been outside practising on an overcast day when a brain-splitting headache hit me. It was a migraine and what followed was hideous. And then it happened again the next time I was out on an overcast day. I think it was the doctor who made the connection about the weather and it made sense to me, I'd always found cloudy days to be quite bright and I had to squint when outdoors. I didn't know how I was going to continue to compete in summer tournaments without risking another episode, so my mother took me to the optometrist and he suggested sunglasses. Ray-Bans had just come out, or so I thought in my teenage brain, but actually they were first invented in 1936! (An American test pilot with sun-damaged eyes contacted Bausch and Lomb asking them to create sunglasses that would provide protection and also look sophisticated. This resulted in the Aviator style which was patented and in 1937 made available to the public.) The Ray-Ban Wayfarer was the 'hot' style to buy at the time, as well as being recommended by the doctor, so I got a black pair with a purple stripe along the top and have to say I felt pretty cool! Not everyone wore sunglasses for fashion then, they weren't the must-have accessory they are today. You'll remember that the Wayfarer had a resurgence in popularity in the last decade, especially the red ones, and now the brand is once again the coveted choice thanks to the Ray-Ban Clubmaster series. (I like the Grey on Sky Blue style!)

As for the migraines, I don't know if it's a coincidence, but I haven't had one since. Because of my hyper-sensitivity to sunlight, it's made me a bit of an advocate of being smart about sunglasses. We all know that little '100% UV protection' sticker that seems to be standard on cheap sunglasses, but did you know that there's a filter rating on all sunglasses, and that it varies from style to style, even within the same brand? It's important to be aware of this rating when choosing sunglasses, especially if you have sensitive eyes. And there's actually one potentially dangerous consequence if you wear the highest filter at the wrong time.

Read Which's tips for buying sunglasses to find out:

• Check for the CE Mark and the British Standard BS EN 1836:2005 for adequate protection against the sun's UV rays.
• Check the filter category of the glasses (how dark they are) from 1 to 4: category 4 is the darkest and not suitable for driving.
• Remember that you are buying a pair of glasses. Before buying hold the glasses at arm’s length and look at a window edge through one lens then the other, looking up and down to make sure the image is clear.
• Check for scratches as they can distort your vision.
• Manufacturers tend to make sunglasses in three sizes, so try them on to make sure they fit.
• Tinted lenses in colours such as red and orange can distort colours when you're driving; grey lenses are best for avoiding this, and brown ones are ok too.

Finally, cost is not always an indicator of the quality, you can have extravagantly priced frames with very little protection from the UV spectrum, so be sure you're getting high quality from your high fashion. As for cheap sunglasses, most are just that and although it's possible to get good protection without paying a lot, it's uncommon. Our eyes can become damaged with repeated sun exposure, so make an informed choice when purchasing your next pair!